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Old 04-09-2013, 08:37 PM   #75616
badweatherbiker
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 705
Thanks for all the kind words guys everything is in Gods hands.
I will miss the DR and there is no doubt I will be on another one it is a fine bike, just not a great interstate hopper but we had some great times. I usually put about 40,000+ miles a year on my bikes and getting pelted with hail, stopping to let the tornado's by and watching out for snowbirds while trying to avoid lightening electrocution is nothing new to me- trust me the badweatherbiker handle serves me well.
I do have the KZ1000P but the head and carbs are off and it may be a few months before its ready to go so i'll likely take a break from biking for a bit.
I have 2 old project bikes so you never know ill have a little time on my hands maybe ill take a look at them.
I'm not going anywhere I have grown quite fond of those DR's and thanks to you guys I know a good bit about them.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:51 PM   #75617
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Thanks for the advice. You're right, the carb does look filthy. I had hoped to not have to take the carb off but I just may have to.

Which Warm N Safe jacket do you have? Ours are 90 watts at full power. My wife and I have one of each, on separate bikes, of course. Not two 90 watt jackets on one bike.
Yea, for sure pull the Carb off and get to know it. Much easier in the end.

Warm & Safe
Mine is an old 90 Watt version also. I got it to review for a magazine years ago. It's very well made but heat wise, sub standard compared to my 15 year old Gerbing. Yep! And the Gerbing only draws 77 Watts.

Of course BOTH Gerbing and Warm & Safe (now sold through First Gear) are now much better, put out more heat and draw less current.
The latest Gerbing is quite efficient. But lots of heated gear options out there. Be careful running your W & S at full power or you may end up with a dead battery. (HID headlight recommended) Run the Troller at about 75% ... that helps too.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:55 PM   #75618
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Thanks for all the kind words guys everything is in Gods hands.
I will miss the DR and there is no doubt I will be on another one it is a fine bike
I'm not going anywhere I have grown quite fond of those DR's and thanks to you guys I know a good bit about them.
Yeah, don't be a stranger. We're a family here and just cuz you don't have a DR at the time, you can still participate.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:52 PM   #75619
badweatherbiker
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Florida
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I'll drink to that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Yeah, don't be a stranger. We're a family here and just cuz you don't have a DR at the time, you can still participate.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:21 AM   #75620
Sleepy John
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Bris Vegas, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Thanks for the advice. You're right, the carb does look filthy. I had hoped to not have to take the carb off but I just may have to.

Which Warm N Safe jacket do you have? Ours are 90 watts at full power. My wife and I have one of each, on separate bikes, of course. Not two 90 watt jackets on one bike.
Check that the little fuel strainer in the fuel intake tube on the carb is clear . Easy to miss.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:31 AM   #75621
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleepy John View Post
Check that the little fuel strainer in the fuel intake tube on the carb is clear . Easy to miss.
It was the first thing I checked. It's clean, or at least it was last Sunday.

But I just remembered one more weird thing that happened on my ride on Monday: even though I filled the tank with fresh fuel in the morning, at about 150 km, the bike displayed all the symptoms of having run out of gas as the motor quit completely, and wouldn't fire up again until I hit reserve on my Pingle fuel tap.

And when I filled up, it only took 10 liters to fill my IMS tank so it was still half full.

So I think the next step is to check out the fuel tap.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:38 AM   #75622
ChuckV
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Tallahassee
Oddometer: 56
Thumb I bought badweatherbiker's DR650

Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Well guys it was fun while it lasted but I sold the DR to an inmate this weekend. It was alot of fun while I had her but I took a beating on my commute with the Florida thunderstorms and wind recently.
Thanks for all the help and conversation and I am sure the new owner will be checking in now and then

I'm the new owner of badweatherbiker's DR650. I can't wait to pick it up and ride once again with my good friends in the panhandle and beyond.

It has been way too long!

Chuck
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:49 AM   #75623
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 2,192
Welcome. Look forward to some stories to continue it's legacy. Good to hear it went to an enthusiast.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:35 AM   #75624
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
It was the first thing I checked. It's clean, or at least it was last Sunday.

But I just remembered one more weird thing that happened on my ride on Monday: even though I filled the tank with fresh fuel in the morning, at about 150 km, the bike displayed all the symptoms of having run out of gas as the motor quit completely, and wouldn't fire up again until I hit reserve on my Pingle fuel tap.

And when I filled up, it only took 10 liters to fill my IMS tank so it was still half full.

So I think the next step is to check out the fuel tap.
...and the venting in the gas cap. Do you have the locking cap? The vent gets plugged in mine which at some point makes a vacuum in the tank and the float bowl won't fill fast enough to keep the motor happy.

(Procycle advises taking the cap apart and poking a hole with an icepick in the rubber piece.)

Originally Posted by procycle
The locking cap has a small rubber disk inside it that acts as a one way valve so fuel doesn't splash out through the internal vent. You can access the disk by removing the rubber gasket and unscrewing the green plastic piece inside the cap. Take a sharp pointed pick and poke a tiny hole in the disk and you will solve the venting issues. The hole should be barely more than a pinhole. If you make the hole too big you might have a small amount of fuel spillage in a tipover.

..............shu
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:55 AM   #75625
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 12,852
Quote:
Originally Posted by GRinCR View Post
Hi all

I have one of the old school models and have fount the book says DO NOT use lapping compound when seating the valves. The locals here find this strange and insist they seat them with lapping compound.

Can anyone shed light on this? Will it f*ck the whole deal if lapping compund is used?

Cheers
That book is written by the people who built the bike and the valves and valve seats,at least if its a factory manual.
On almost all newer 4 strokes the valves arent lapped in they are simply installed and checked for seal. If the old valve is worn down to a sharp edge then you gotta see what shape the valve seat is in.

Old school mechanics will want to lap the valves regardless of what the maker of said valves says. It wont hurt but they dont need it.
They are so hard not much will happen lapping them.
I put new valves in my 01 DRZe a while ago,the old ones still looked good,new valves were 26.00 each so for the heck of it new ones were installed,they sealed perfect with no lapping.

DRZ/DR valves are simple steel valves,on newer tricker 4 strokes they have hard coatings/titanium valves maybe that cost 100's of dollars.
1 or two adjustments and they are toast,the hard coating is worn through and its time to replace them.

DR's valves last a long time and are simple good quality valves.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:29 AM   #75626
Bronco638
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,844
Quote:
Originally Posted by skysailor
So, my poor DR has sat in the garage all winter. It'll start, then die after about three seconds. Used fuel stabilizer when I put it to bed. Ideas?
Lyle
Don't let it sit all winter without starting it? In all seriousness, I use fuel stabilizer (or race gas) and simply start the bike every second or third weekend thru the winter. Let it run for 5-10 minutes (to generate some temperature) and then shut it off. I've never had any trouble come Spring.

Your issue might be a partially clogged pilot jet.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:43 AM   #75627
Archery720
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Oddometer: 1
Newbie

Just stopping in to say hello. Name is Andy, I just bought a 2005 DR650 and been surfing through this thread, picking up tips and tricks. I have had KLR 250's prior to this DR. I have only rode about 1/4 mile due to weather and waiting on gasket to fix my screwup, but that 1/4 mile was awesome! Look forward to getting to know all of you.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:51 AM   #75628
wee-twin
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Westchester County, N.Y.
Oddometer: 201
Welcome Andy. When you click on thumpers at the top there is a stick: bike specific, click on that and then go to dr650. Tons on info.

Bill
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:47 AM   #75629
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
...and the venting in the gas cap. Do you have the locking cap? The vent gets plugged in mine which at some point makes a vacuum in the tank and the float bowl won't fill fast enough to keep the motor happy.

(Procycle advises taking the cap apart and poking a hole with an icepick in the rubber piece.)

Originally Posted by procycle
The locking cap has a small rubber disk inside it that acts as a one way valve so fuel doesn't splash out through the internal vent. You can access the disk by removing the rubber gasket and unscrewing the green plastic piece inside the cap. Take a sharp pointed pick and poke a tiny hole in the disk and you will solve the venting issues. The hole should be barely more than a pinhole. If you make the hole too big you might have a small amount of fuel spillage in a tipover.

..............shu
I had the locking cap until last Fall when the gasket started leaking, so I put a standard IMS cap on it. The tap flows at a verified 500 ml per 15 seconds, so it's not the tap itself at fault. I'm thinking it could possibly be the fuel line being constricted since the carb still has the inlet pipe going straight up, so the line is fairly short from the Pingel tap to the carb, and has a nasty twist which could be restricting the flow.

I'm going to try to make that line up better but the last time I attempted to turn the inlet pipe, it failed to move no matter what I tried.
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:11 AM   #75630
Minsk99
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Cambridge, MA
Oddometer: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I had the locking cap until last Fall when the gasket started leaking, so I put a standard IMS cap on it. The tap flows at a verified 500 ml per 15 seconds, so it's not the tap itself at fault. I'm thinking it could possibly be the fuel line being constricted since the carb still has the inlet pipe going straight up, so the line is fairly short from the Pingel tap to the carb, and has a nasty twist which could be restricting the flow.

I'm going to try to make that line up better but the last time I attempted to turn the inlet pipe, it failed to move no matter what I tried.
Did you instal an inline fuel filter between the Pingel and the inlet pipe? Might want to check to see if it needs replacing.
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