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Old 04-12-2013, 05:40 PM   #75736
Colorado CJ
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Oddometer: 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
CJ- Really like the looks of it!

And, that has to be one of the nicest/clearest photos of a DR I've seen. Super model photography for a DR... I can die happy now!

Edit: Loveland still a hidden secret or has it been taken over? I used to go there 20 years ago from PA just to buy barrel racing horses. Loved that place. Kind of place you dreamed of retiring to!
Thanks. My other hobby is photography. I didn't spend any time on this one though, just a quick snap out in my yard at my shop with my D600.

I am going to ride up into the mountains tomorrow, so I should get some better photos there


Loveland is turning into a pretty large town. I think we have something like 65,000 people here now. They've also built a large shopping area out by the interstate which is bringing more and more people here. It is the shopping location for much of northern Colorado and southern Wyoming now.

It is kind of a win/lose situation. There is more work, so that is good for the economy, but there is A LOT more people, so there is actually traffic here now and there are more homes being built. Loveland is really loosing its small town feel
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:45 PM   #75737
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Most Staintune have a "quiet insert" of some sort. Two drawbacks with the Staintune:
1. Cost
2. Weight

Staintune quality is excellent but they are heavy beasts. They also transmit A LOT of heat, unlike Titanium, Carbon Fiber (both run cooler). The Staintune MUST be clear of soft bags or you'll get a fire.

The FMF, IMHO, is junk. They are light but not well made and don't last.
The Q4 model is still quite loud ... and still requires re-packing, which is a PITA.

So what are you left with?
Most on this thread figured it out years ago. The best choice is to find a nice GSXR Ti muffler, buy the mid pipe from Jesse and your done. The stock Suzuki Ti pipe is world class quality, will last forever. No repacking.
Quiet and quite light weight. Yes, the FMF is a couple lbs. lighter but not even close in quality. I paid $50 usd for my GSXR pipe. They come up for sale and are generally more now due to demand. Totally worth it. Buy one.
Yes, I've been looking around for a GSXR slip on but haven't really discovered any (I'm not that sure what I'm looking for either, apart from searching for "GSXR muffler" on eBay: like this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5378-LEO-...ht_1233wt_1062 but not sure at what I'm looking at??). Is there anywhere that sells them upfront.
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Thumper Dan screwed with this post 04-12-2013 at 05:52 PM
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:05 PM   #75738
Burnt Toast
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Location: Greensboro, NC
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Matto!

Here's a pic looking at the right side with the cover off. See the light at the lower right? That's a flashlight pointing in at the slot on the left side where your washer fell in! Looks like a pretty straight shot to me. Happy fishing!

BTW, nothing behind that cover to worry about. You have to align the clutch pin when removing/installing, but no falling parts. If you haven't already done so, you should do the NSU bolts while you're there (look it up).

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Old 04-12-2013, 06:15 PM   #75739
bross
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Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Yes, I've been looking around for a GSXR slip on but haven't really discovered any (I'm not that sure what I'm looking for either, apart from searching for "GSXR muffler" on eBay: like this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5378-LEO-...ht_1233wt_1062 but not sure at what I'm looking at??). Is there anywhere that sells them upfront.
Here's everything you wanted to know about the GSXR pipe on the DR...

https://docs.google.com/presentation...nt#slide=id.i0

Basically a stock pipe from an 01/02 GSXR 1000 with x40F0x stamped on it.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:20 PM   #75740
mattomachu
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
Here's a pic looking at the right side with the cover off. See the light at the lower right? That's a flashlight pointing in at the slot on the left side where your washer fell in! Looks like a pretty straight shot to me. Happy fishing!

BTW, nothing behind that cover to worry about. You have to align the clutch pin when removing/installing, but no falling parts. If you haven't already done so, you should do the NSU bolts while you're there (look it up).

Awesome, thanks for taking the time to post a great picture, looks like a straight shot. I will definitely tackle the NSU bolts while in there, good call. I didn't even know that there was an issue with them until today while googling my other issue. I'm going to leave the mag on and dive into the clutch side tonight.
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:27 PM   #75741
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,922
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattomachu View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Sorry nobody's offering any advice but I don't think most of us have had that problem, fortunately. Must be a nightmare for you, though. Hope it works out for you. Best solution would be to order a puller if you can't borrow one, and get it out through the alternator side, imho.
I thought he was sunk too, until Burnt Toast posted his pic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattomachu View Post
TrophyHunter, I'm going to triple check the bottom of the mag tonight. Then I'm going to pop the right side off and go fishing with my magnet. It looks straight forward. Is there anything that I need to worry about falling out? Gears, springs, etc..
You have about a 50% chance of reusing your clutch cover gasket; mine was welded to the cover and a pita to remove.

There are several different NSU ideas here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15

Loved your photo. Pink is even prittier than red. I thought yer goose was cooked. There's no way you're getting to the washer through the right side access hole, nor through the drain plug. Burnt Toast to the rescue.

Photo thanks to ADV8, he drew the boxes for another issue. I drew the letters for this issue. Ok, so I like smilies.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:50 PM   #75742
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 3,751
Wheel Not Straight

Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Long story short, I dropped the bike on the right side. Impact was almost all on the right Bark Buster and broke the passenger peg. I got on to ride to work today and noticed the handlebars/wheel was off. The front wheel is now pointing left relative to the handlebars (handlebars straight, wheel left). The handlebars don't appear to be bent, although that's what took the impact, the right Bark Buster/bar end.

...
Thanks for the input all. I loosened the lower clamps and the wheel went to just about perfect with just a little cycling of the suspension.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:44 PM   #75743
YnotJP?
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Philippines and Seattle
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When doing the NSU bolts, do one bolt at a time. There is a spring in there if I recall correctly. And use blue Loctite or safety wire, not red loctite. With red you would never get the bolts out again if you ever need to.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:07 PM   #75744
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YnotJP? View Post
When doing the NSU bolts, do one bolt at a time. There is a spring in there if I recall correctly. And use blue Loctite or safety wire, not red loctite. With red you would never get the bolts out again if you ever need to.
You remember correctly + a small plunger. Procycle is strongly against using red Loctite. I'm a safety wire kinda guy.

There are several different ideas here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:25 PM   #75745
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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With this extended Spring, it's been more than a little obvious that heated gear is necessary. This is how I mounted the remote controller for my Warm N Safe Heat Troller.



Works well.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:24 PM   #75746
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Happy Birthday!!!

My baby turned 45 today. Although 44* is too frakin' cold.



Pritty, too.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 04-12-2013 at 10:29 PM
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:51 PM   #75747
jessepitt
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond Oregon
Oddometer: 993
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
My baby turned 45 today. Although 44* is too frakin' cold.



Pritty, too.


45k! Nice! Is that the clear or the white Acerbis tank on that lovely bike?
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:35 PM   #75748
mattomachu
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I thought he was sunk too, until Burnt Toast posted his pic.

You have about a 50% chance of reusing your clutch cover gasket; mine was welded to the cover and a pita to remove.

There are several different NSU ideas here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15

Loved your photo. Pink is even prittier than red. I thought yer goose was cooked. There's no way you're getting to the washer through the right side access hole, nor through the drain plug. Burnt Toast to the rescue.

Photo thanks to ADV8, he drew the boxes for another issue. I drew the letters for this issue. Ok, so I like smilies.

Yeah.. Thanks everyone for your input. The clutch side was pretty easy to fish the washer out. I'm now in the process of replacing the NSU screws. how does one get the top screw out. I'm thinking right handle phillips similar to an allen key? Here is a pick of that darn washer.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:23 AM   #75749
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
45k! Nice! Is that the clear or the white Acerbis tank on that lovely bike?
Thanks.

It's the neutral/clear/natural tank and at 500ish miles it's already getting the stain from my knees. I'm pretty sure most plastic tanks will show the same wear/stain over time (white and clear being the worst); but if ya look at my sig, you'll get an insight into how much that matters to me.

Although I've always used the odometer to signal that I need to find fuel (reset at every fuel fill), watching the fuel level is yet another worthy distraction (tach, oil temp, speedo, odometer, traffic, road sand, soccer moms, texters and 2 GPS). Point is, I like being able to see the fuel level; even though it closely matches the odo. Another bonus for me: I fill my tank to full at every gas stop. With the stock filler tube, I never knew where the heck that was; I couldn't see the gas line and it took several attempts to get the fuel level up to the cap; and I still didn't know how close to full I was. With the light color tank, I can watch the fuel level and without the tube in the neck, I can fill 'er right up.

I have spent much time juggling fuel capacity in my head: how far can I ride until I need fuel? The 3.4 gallon stock tank was 'just' good enough. You've probably seen Smilin' Jack's 1 gallon aux tank idea which I blatanly stole. I was happy with the idea until a flat front tire dropped me (15mph ) and drug a hole in the tank and the EPA made sure that I couldn't find another. I'm sure the kool guys thought it looked hokey, but I got used to it. Besides, I couldn't see it from where I sit.

My Acerbis held exactly 5.0 gallons, right up to the filler neck. It's normal for the plastic tanks to expand over time (read it on the internet), but 5.0 is just fine with me. Through two tanks now, that is very good for me. It has solved the 3.4 gallon issues I had. My first tank went until 237 miles before I hit reserve and I was coasting to a stop, completely out of gas at 269 miles. I was running a 16t countershaft sprocket for those miles and I get worse mileage than with my 15t.

A few more details here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=108

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattomachu View Post
Yeah.. Thanks everyone for your input. The clutch side was pretty easy to fish the washer out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattomachu View Post
I'm now in the process of replacing the NSU screws. how does one get the top screw out. I'm thinking right handle phillips similar to an allen key?
That top one can be a trouble maker, but others have been persistant and gotten it out without removing the clutch. If I were to do it again, I'd try harder to get the screw out with the clutch in place. If you're a motorcycle mechanic, you'll be good, but there are a few problems that can cause ya grief. A pointy vise grip might be able to grab the top screw to get it loose.

Here's several NSU solutions, pick one you like.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 04-13-2013 at 11:13 AM Reason: spelling
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:40 AM   #75750
Rainier_runner
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Location: Yelm, Washington
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[/QUOTE]

Looking good for her age!
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