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Old 04-13-2013, 08:45 PM   #75751
CafeRacer
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Location: City of Angels
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My god. What the hell is the stock throttle grip attached with?

How the hell does one get it off?
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:53 PM   #75752
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeRacer View Post
My god. What the hell is the stock throttle grip attached with?

How the hell does one get it off?

It's bonded on.
The hard way, grind it off. The easy way, get a $10 replacement throttle tube.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:55 PM   #75753
Krusty ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeRacer View Post
My god. What the hell is the stock throttle grip attached with?

How the hell does one get it off?
The grip is bonded to the tube. Removing it involves slicing or grinding- and patience. Many simply swap on a new tube.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:22 PM   #75754
sandwash
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Just get rid of the tube and get one of short/quick throttle tube,R1 or R6.Do a search on.They are only 15-20$ for tube and both grips.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:29 PM   #75755
CafeRacer
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Roger that. Thanks guys.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:55 PM   #75756
SGrider
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I fitted a throttle tube off a RMZ 450, it's a quicker turn too.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:02 PM   #75757
badweatherbiker
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just a shout out to the DR family- ChuckV picked up his new (my old) DR today and rode it home so everyone welcome him to the family.
I had a tear in my eye when that yellow DR rounded the corner leaving my home....
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:53 AM   #75758
wayno
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
just a shout out to the DR family- ChuckV picked up his new (my old) DR today and rode it home so everyone welcome him to the family.
I had a tear in my eye when that yellow DR rounded the corner leaving my home....
Congrats ChuckV!!!!

bwb tough to see an old friend go especially when you sold em






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Old 04-14-2013, 06:09 AM   #75759
Carl Childers
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Good Brand of Battery ?

I'll be in the market for another battery soon, any feed back on a good quality replacement? I'm not looking for a high dollar high end battery just a good middle of the road unit.
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Old 04-14-2013, 06:24 AM   #75760
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks
This may sound dumb, but I'm struggling to get my newly rebuilt engine back in the frame. Does anyone have any tips on how to squeeze it back in? If I remember correctly, I think I already had the clutch and clutch cover off when I took the engine out, which gave it some extra clearance. I already put that stuff back on, but I figure there must be a way to get it in without taking that stuff off again.
It can be done and it can be done by one person (me ).

Last winter I disassembled my DR to have the frame powder coated. The engine didn't need anything except a good cleaning. I believe I was able to get it out of the left side of the frame (as the shop manual, erroneously, states). When it came time to put it back in. I laid the motor on it's side and then dropped the frame on top of it. I honestly do not recall which side the motor went in but it may have been the right side. With the frame laying on top of the motor, it's a little easier to move the engine around to get it into place. I used a bunch of old cardboard boxes, cut open, to keep the frame from getting chipped and the motor from leaking anything on the floor. It took some time and some choice words but I was able to do it with a minimum amount of damage to the powder coat and no damage to me or the motor. Since you have a friend, to assist, it may be even easier for the two of you.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:51 AM   #75761
Escaped
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I replaced the stock battery at maybe 25,000 miles with a wal-mart off the self unit. Now at 41,000+ with no problems. I probably didn't need to change the original just yet but the cranking speed seemed to be slowing.


Just ride it every day or if you can't just dont let the battery lose a significant % of full charge while just sitting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'll be in the market for another battery soon, any feed back on a good quality replacement? I'm not looking for a high dollar high end battery just a good middle of the road unit.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:07 AM   #75762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'll be in the market for another battery soon, any feed back on a good quality replacement? I'm not looking for a high dollar high end battery just a good middle of the road unit.
The OEM battery is a sealed (AGM or gel) and doesn't leak acid when the bike is on it's side. Might not matter to you but that's important to me. Some of the cheaper replacements in this size are not sealed.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:28 AM   #75763
refokus
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Location: North Phoenix
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Kick Stand

I am looking for the stock (standard) kick stand. The one that I have was cut to accommodate the lowering of the rear shock by the previous owner. If anyone has one or know where I can get one that would be great. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:40 AM   #75764
sandwash
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Cheapo beepo ebay volt meter 2-4$,to keep a eye on the battery status.Different colors too.

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Old 04-14-2013, 10:10 AM   #75765
deathu
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reinstalling the clutch

Hi,

As part of my 1998 DR650SE rebuild, I got a complete new clutch set, and I have the following issue with it's installation.
It seems that up to this point, the concaved washer (or judder spring) was installed with the wrong orientation, and it left a deep mark on the first driven plate:


Now as per the service manual, I try to install the replacement plates. First goes the washer seat:

Then the concave washer (judder spring), with the orientation as per the service manual, with the raised edge towards the inside of the sleeve hub:


then the first (thicker) driven plate:



At this point I am unable to install the stopper ring, because as you can see in the above image it's channel is completely "buried" under the clutch plate. The judder spring seems very difficult to compress, I think would require some special tools but the manual doesn't mention anything about this. Is there some trick to do this installation? Is the concaved washer orientation stated in the service manual correct? (as mentioned it seems it was installed the "wrong" way until now, which allows it sit a little bit lower on the sleeve hub).


Another question I have is regarding the drive plates, the service manual states that 7 of them are of one type, and the remaining one of another type. My kit contains 8 drive plates that seem identical to me . How do I identify the drive plate "no 2" (that should go first in the hub)?
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