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Old 04-14-2013, 11:32 AM   #75766
wayno
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: East of KCMO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Hi,

As part of my 1998 DR650SE rebuild, I got a complete new clutch set, and I have the following issue with it's installation.
It seems that up to this point, the concaved washer (or judder spring) was installed with the wrong orientation, and it left a deep mark on the first driven plate:
Now as per the service manual, I try to install the replacement plates. First goes the washer seat: Then the concave washer (judder spring), with the orientation as per the service manual, with the raised edge towards the inside of the sleeve hub:
then the first (thicker) driven plate:

At this point I am unable to install the stopper ring, because as you can see in the above image it's channel is completely "buried" under the clutch plate. The judder spring seems very difficult to compress, I think would require some special tools but the manual doesn't mention anything about this. Is there some trick to do this installation? Is the concaved washer orientation stated in the service manual correct? (as mentioned it seems it was installed the "wrong" way until now, which allows it sit a little bit lower on the sleeve hub).


Another question I have is regarding the drive plates, the service manual states that 7 of them are of one type, and the remaining one of another type. My kit contains 8 drive plates that seem identical to me . How do I identify the drive plate "no 2" (that should go first in the hub)?
See if this helps: http://drriders.com/topic5244.html
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:05 PM   #75767
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayno View Post
Thanks a lot! The information was extremely useful to me, although I didn't have the necessary number of c-clamps available, the thread inspired me so I did my own "circular" clamp/vice . I just sandwiched the assembly between two old sprockets and the stopper ring went on ridiculously easy.



Once again thank you for the help. That really saved me from a lot of trouble.
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:08 PM   #75768
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The OEM battery is a sealed (AGM or gel) and doesn't leak acid when the bike is on it's side. Might not matter to you but that's important to me. Some of the cheaper replacements in this size are not sealed.
And the DR runs its battery tilted anyway so an unsealed lead-acid battery is just inviting problems.
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:05 PM   #75769
frecks
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Michigan, USA
Oddometer: 246
Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Not a dumb question at all as many of us have struggled to get it back in.
First thing, the shop manual is wrong.
It says to put it in from the left side (shifter side).
That will waste a lot of your time like it did for me.
Finally I realized the picture (drawing?) they show is NOT the '96+ bike frame.
Our bikes have a removable engine mount on the RIGHT side, not the left.

OK, next thing to know is it will only go in by slightly twisting or rotating it to get the bump on the front of the engine case in between the frame rails.
Once you get that started in you adjust the engine so it will squeeze into position.
Many have found that laying the engine on its right side and then lowering the frame down over it was easier to do.
I used my engine hoist and lowered the engine on its side down into the newly painted frame so that I wasn't trying to support the 100+ lbs engine and work it into the frame.

It will go in fine with the side case covers on, but no carby of course.
It can certainly be done with the bike vertical or on the kick stand.
The problem is that if you are trying to support the engine weight AND wiggle it around you may injure your back.
Or your hands as they get trapped between engine and frame.
Or your sanity since you know it came out, but???!!!

I stick the front engine mount plate and bolts in as soon as I can as that holds it in one plane while lining up the other bolts.

First time is often painful and frustrating.
Your post got me thinking and I realized that a neighbor has a lift built into his garage for removing the hard top from his jeep. We laid the bike down on its right side, lifted it up, put the engine on its right side on top of a milk crate, and lowered the frame right down on top of it. It was super easy. Saved a ton of time. Thanks so much for the suggestion.
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Old 04-14-2013, 06:57 PM   #75770
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'll be in the market for another battery soon, any feed back on a good quality replacement? I'm not looking for a high dollar high end battery just a good middle of the road unit.
I got 6 years on my original Yuasa and changed it (with another) for no other reason than because I thought it might be time. Sure I'd like a 2oz battery . But I don't trust the new technology, Boeing comes to mind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Thanks a lot! The information was extremely useful to me, although I didn't have the necessary number of c-clamps available, the thread inspired me so I did my own "circular" clamp/vice . I just sandwiched the assembly between two old sprockets and the stopper ring went on ridiculously easy.



Once again thank you for the help. That really saved me from a lot of trouble.
Hey, good photos, everybody loves good photos.
Thanks for showing us your solution, it will most likely be passed on to the next rider having similar issues.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-14-2013, 06:59 PM   #75771
barko1
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: N. GA
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Anyone know where I can buy one spoke
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:20 PM   #75772
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Anyone know where I can buy one spoke
Suzuki does not sell them separately. You can have a single spoke custom made by Buchanan's.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:19 PM   #75773
JagLite
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 1,437
Cool2 DR650 is a winner. Officially! (Even in disguise)

Yes, it amazed me too.



The judges at our annual motorcycle show placed my bike first in the "Adventure Bike" class proving the DR is a WINNER!


Of course my bike is "slightly" modified from stock...



Here is the "Before" picture I put up at the show:




And here it is today:





At the show:







Not only did it get a trophy, but also a $100 check!
I didn't know they gave trophies let alone cash prizes too.
2nd place went to a beautiful fully farkled ($25,000?) 2012 BMW GS.

The billet aluminum oil cooler didn't arrive in time so I painted and reinstalled the stock one but it sure sticks out with the skinny tank.
Fortunately the Warp 9 chain guide from PC arrived just in time to bolt it on.

Now, if I could get ProCycle to sponsor me for a 790 kit...
Jeff, that's a hint...

In case you are wondering, those are fiberglass case guards made with black tinted epoxy then sanded for the sand cast look.
They are held on with Industrial Velcro so I can peel the right side off to change the oil filter, and the left side when desired.
They are 1/4" thick and incredibly strong as well as protecting the entire side covers.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:24 PM   #75774
ER70S-2
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205'd by JagLite:
Damn, that looks great, nice work.

After ruining my one gallon auxillary tank (hokey but completely functional) in a low speed tipover (flat front tire), I decided that it's time to upgrade to one of the 5 gallon tanks available for my DR. I chose the Acerbis 5.3 because it's a bit more modern and its angularity matches the DR headlight cowl. I really don't care about appearances, it's a dirt bike....................see my sig. I chose the natural color because I want to be able to see my fuel level. I had always reset my odometer when fueling, and the DR was very consistant with when it hit reserve, but I wanted visual feedback. If you look closely, you can see the fuel level, right at the top of the A. It's much more obvious in real life. The dots mark each gallon, in this pic, the bike is on the side stand so the fuel level doesn't align with the dots.

Tonight, as I was headed to the store, I glanced over at the bike (level on the stand)..................... kewl, I have 1/2 a tank. There's no way I'd have known that without looking at the odo.

But for those of you that are concious of appearances, this is what mine looks like at 900 miles. I used some Zep high performance degreaser something or other to try to clean the smudge, it didn't help, not even a little bit. I don't care, dirt bikes are for riding, any aftermarket plastic tank is likely to stain; white and natural are probably the worst. You take yer chances.
Edited to add a tip from TrophyHunter:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Cleaning the rub marks on the tank.http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C

I'm not fanatical about it but enjoy keeping up the appearance of the bike. The Nu Finish is a fine enough compound to remove stains and fine scratches.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 04-15-2013 at 10:40 AM
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:56 PM   #75775
bluegroove
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 464
Question Eibach spring identification?

My bike has a rear spring that's too stiff. The previous owner said it's Eibach 8.0. Is there anything on the spring that will verify this rate?

Anybody got a softer one to sell me?
thanks
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:14 PM   #75776
bluegroove
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oh also - anyone know the rate of the stock spring? Just as a reference point...
my bike is 2006
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:46 AM   #75777
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegroove View Post
My bike has a rear spring that's too stiff. The previous owner said it's Eibach 8.0. Is there anything on the spring that will verify this rate?

Anybody got a softer one to sell me?
thanks
Rick at Cogent Dynamics ( http://motocd.com/) has a box full of stock DR650 springs (including mine) that he sends to the metal recycler from time to time. I bet he would give you one for the cost of shipping.
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Old 04-15-2013, 04:47 AM   #75778
dip
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Narrogin WA Australia
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jesse's mid pipe fit standard header

Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Does anybody have the Jesse's midpipe for a Hayabusa muffler that they're looking to sell? Standard header size
I have a jesse mid pipe to fit standard header pipe for sale if your interested

dip screwed with this post 04-15-2013 at 05:07 AM
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:53 AM   #75779
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 2,310
Jaglite - outstanding job! It's certainly the most transformed ADV bike....and beautiful. I've done a few car projects and can certainly appreciate the work you put into that.


Cleaning the rub marks on the tank.http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C

I'm not fanatical about it but enjoy keeping up the appearance of the bike. The Nu Finish is a fine enough compound to remove stains and fine scratches.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:36 AM   #75780
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 4,095
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegroove View Post
My bike has a rear spring that's too stiff. The previous owner said it's Eibach 8.0. Is there anything on the spring that will verify this rate?

Anybody got a softer one to sell me?
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegroove View Post
oh also - anyone know the rate of the stock spring? Just as a reference point...
my bike is 2006
I read stock is 6.5 kg/mm. You can have my stock spring if you want a stock one.
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