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Old 04-14-2013, 06:53 AM   #75766
wayno
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: East of KCMO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
just a shout out to the DR family- ChuckV picked up his new (my old) DR today and rode it home so everyone welcome him to the family.
I had a tear in my eye when that yellow DR rounded the corner leaving my home....
Congrats ChuckV!!!!

bwb tough to see an old friend go especially when you sold em






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Old 04-14-2013, 07:09 AM   #75767
Carl Childers
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Good Brand of Battery ?

I'll be in the market for another battery soon, any feed back on a good quality replacement? I'm not looking for a high dollar high end battery just a good middle of the road unit.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:24 AM   #75768
Bronco638
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks
This may sound dumb, but I'm struggling to get my newly rebuilt engine back in the frame. Does anyone have any tips on how to squeeze it back in? If I remember correctly, I think I already had the clutch and clutch cover off when I took the engine out, which gave it some extra clearance. I already put that stuff back on, but I figure there must be a way to get it in without taking that stuff off again.
It can be done and it can be done by one person (me ).

Last winter I disassembled my DR to have the frame powder coated. The engine didn't need anything except a good cleaning. I believe I was able to get it out of the left side of the frame (as the shop manual, erroneously, states). When it came time to put it back in. I laid the motor on it's side and then dropped the frame on top of it. I honestly do not recall which side the motor went in but it may have been the right side. With the frame laying on top of the motor, it's a little easier to move the engine around to get it into place. I used a bunch of old cardboard boxes, cut open, to keep the frame from getting chipped and the motor from leaking anything on the floor. It took some time and some choice words but I was able to do it with a minimum amount of damage to the powder coat and no damage to me or the motor. Since you have a friend, to assist, it may be even easier for the two of you.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:51 AM   #75769
Escaped
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I replaced the stock battery at maybe 25,000 miles with a wal-mart off the self unit. Now at 41,000+ with no problems. I probably didn't need to change the original just yet but the cranking speed seemed to be slowing.


Just ride it every day or if you can't just dont let the battery lose a significant % of full charge while just sitting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'll be in the market for another battery soon, any feed back on a good quality replacement? I'm not looking for a high dollar high end battery just a good middle of the road unit.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:07 AM   #75770
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'll be in the market for another battery soon, any feed back on a good quality replacement? I'm not looking for a high dollar high end battery just a good middle of the road unit.
The OEM battery is a sealed (AGM or gel) and doesn't leak acid when the bike is on it's side. Might not matter to you but that's important to me. Some of the cheaper replacements in this size are not sealed.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:28 AM   #75771
refokus
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: North Phoenix
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Kick Stand

I am looking for the stock (standard) kick stand. The one that I have was cut to accommodate the lowering of the rear shock by the previous owner. If anyone has one or know where I can get one that would be great. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:40 AM   #75772
sandwash
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Cheapo beepo ebay volt meter 2-4$,to keep a eye on the battery status.Different colors too.

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Old 04-14-2013, 11:10 AM   #75773
deathu
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Bucharest
Oddometer: 77
reinstalling the clutch

Hi,

As part of my 1998 DR650SE rebuild, I got a complete new clutch set, and I have the following issue with it's installation.
It seems that up to this point, the concaved washer (or judder spring) was installed with the wrong orientation, and it left a deep mark on the first driven plate:


Now as per the service manual, I try to install the replacement plates. First goes the washer seat:

Then the concave washer (judder spring), with the orientation as per the service manual, with the raised edge towards the inside of the sleeve hub:


then the first (thicker) driven plate:



At this point I am unable to install the stopper ring, because as you can see in the above image it's channel is completely "buried" under the clutch plate. The judder spring seems very difficult to compress, I think would require some special tools but the manual doesn't mention anything about this. Is there some trick to do this installation? Is the concaved washer orientation stated in the service manual correct? (as mentioned it seems it was installed the "wrong" way until now, which allows it sit a little bit lower on the sleeve hub).


Another question I have is regarding the drive plates, the service manual states that 7 of them are of one type, and the remaining one of another type. My kit contains 8 drive plates that seem identical to me . How do I identify the drive plate "no 2" (that should go first in the hub)?
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:49 AM   #75774
Zafo
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: SE Wisconsin
Oddometer: 2
Hi Everyone,

I've been a street rider (cruiser) for many years and two years ago at the CADVR Rally I got the taste of dirt and haven't looked back. I sold my Honda Shadow and got a Suzuki DR650. I love it! Just wanted to introduce myself and say hi, "Hi". Thanks for all the great advice on this forum.
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:05 PM   #75775
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zafo View Post
Hi Everyone,

.....got a Suzuki DR650. I love it! Just wanted to introduce myself and say hi, "Hi". Thanks for all the great advice on this forum.
Welcome Zafo
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:32 PM   #75776
wayno
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: East of KCMO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Hi,

As part of my 1998 DR650SE rebuild, I got a complete new clutch set, and I have the following issue with it's installation.
It seems that up to this point, the concaved washer (or judder spring) was installed with the wrong orientation, and it left a deep mark on the first driven plate:
Now as per the service manual, I try to install the replacement plates. First goes the washer seat: Then the concave washer (judder spring), with the orientation as per the service manual, with the raised edge towards the inside of the sleeve hub:
then the first (thicker) driven plate:

At this point I am unable to install the stopper ring, because as you can see in the above image it's channel is completely "buried" under the clutch plate. The judder spring seems very difficult to compress, I think would require some special tools but the manual doesn't mention anything about this. Is there some trick to do this installation? Is the concaved washer orientation stated in the service manual correct? (as mentioned it seems it was installed the "wrong" way until now, which allows it sit a little bit lower on the sleeve hub).


Another question I have is regarding the drive plates, the service manual states that 7 of them are of one type, and the remaining one of another type. My kit contains 8 drive plates that seem identical to me . How do I identify the drive plate "no 2" (that should go first in the hub)?
See if this helps: http://drriders.com/topic5244.html
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:05 PM   #75777
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayno View Post
Thanks a lot! The information was extremely useful to me, although I didn't have the necessary number of c-clamps available, the thread inspired me so I did my own "circular" clamp/vice . I just sandwiched the assembly between two old sprockets and the stopper ring went on ridiculously easy.



Once again thank you for the help. That really saved me from a lot of trouble.
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:08 PM   #75778
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The OEM battery is a sealed (AGM or gel) and doesn't leak acid when the bike is on it's side. Might not matter to you but that's important to me. Some of the cheaper replacements in this size are not sealed.
And the DR runs its battery tilted anyway so an unsealed lead-acid battery is just inviting problems.
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Old 04-14-2013, 06:05 PM   #75779
frecks
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Michigan, USA
Oddometer: 245
Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Not a dumb question at all as many of us have struggled to get it back in.
First thing, the shop manual is wrong.
It says to put it in from the left side (shifter side).
That will waste a lot of your time like it did for me.
Finally I realized the picture (drawing?) they show is NOT the '96+ bike frame.
Our bikes have a removable engine mount on the RIGHT side, not the left.

OK, next thing to know is it will only go in by slightly twisting or rotating it to get the bump on the front of the engine case in between the frame rails.
Once you get that started in you adjust the engine so it will squeeze into position.
Many have found that laying the engine on its right side and then lowering the frame down over it was easier to do.
I used my engine hoist and lowered the engine on its side down into the newly painted frame so that I wasn't trying to support the 100+ lbs engine and work it into the frame.

It will go in fine with the side case covers on, but no carby of course.
It can certainly be done with the bike vertical or on the kick stand.
The problem is that if you are trying to support the engine weight AND wiggle it around you may injure your back.
Or your hands as they get trapped between engine and frame.
Or your sanity since you know it came out, but???!!!

I stick the front engine mount plate and bolts in as soon as I can as that holds it in one plane while lining up the other bolts.

First time is often painful and frustrating.
Your post got me thinking and I realized that a neighbor has a lift built into his garage for removing the hard top from his jeep. We laid the bike down on its right side, lifted it up, put the engine on its right side on top of a milk crate, and lowered the frame right down on top of it. It was super easy. Saved a ton of time. Thanks so much for the suggestion.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:57 PM   #75780
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'll be in the market for another battery soon, any feed back on a good quality replacement? I'm not looking for a high dollar high end battery just a good middle of the road unit.
I got 6 years on my original Yuasa and changed it (with another) for no other reason than because I thought it might be time. Sure I'd like a 2oz battery . But I don't trust the new technology, Boeing comes to mind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Thanks a lot! The information was extremely useful to me, although I didn't have the necessary number of c-clamps available, the thread inspired me so I did my own "circular" clamp/vice . I just sandwiched the assembly between two old sprockets and the stopper ring went on ridiculously easy.



Once again thank you for the help. That really saved me from a lot of trouble.
Hey, good photos, everybody loves good photos.
Thanks for showing us your solution, it will most likely be passed on to the next rider having similar issues.
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Quote:
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