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Old 04-13-2013, 09:28 AM   #75781
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
It depends on what you mean by "too wide".
No it is not too wide to fit in the swingarm, the motard types are running 150's.
Yes it is too wide for the stock rim. Google 'motorcycle tire fitment chart. A 140 tire is designed to go on a 3.5" rim, the DR has a 2.5" rim.
So you can use it but understand that the profile will not be what the manufacturer had in mind, the sides of the contact patch will be pulled up and the center more rounded.
Understood, ok, Nix that idea.
thanks
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:53 AM   #75782
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
It depends on what you mean by "too wide".
No it is not too wide to fit in the swingarm, the motard types are running 150's.
Yes it is too wide for the stock rim. Google 'motorcycle tire fitment chart. A 140 tire is designed to go on a 3.5" rim, the DR has a 2.5" rim.
So you can use it but understand that the profile will not be what the manufacturer had in mind, the sides of the contact patch will be pulled up and the center more rounded.
This is true. Being a cheapskate I've run Odd sized tires on my DR and other bikes. With the narrow DR rim the tire profile will be "squeezed", distorting the profile from ideal. Could make for some "weird" handling and wear patterns.

I ran out of tire in Mexico once ... mounted a 140 on my then KLR .... very scary handling ... but got me home.

I ran a 140 section MT-60 Pirelli on my DR years ago ... not so good.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:14 AM   #75783
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Looking good for her age!
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Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:45 AM   #75784
frecks
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This may sound dumb, but I'm struggling to get my newly rebuilt engine back in the frame. Does anyone have any tips on how to squeeze it back in? If I remember correctly, I think I already had the clutch and clutch cover off when I took the engine out, which gave it some extra clearance. I already put that stuff back on, but I figure there must be a way to get it in without taking that stuff off again.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:59 AM   #75785
Davis53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks View Post
This may sound dumb, but I'm struggling to get my newly rebuilt engine back in the frame. Does anyone have any tips on how to squeeze it back in? If I remember correctly, I think I already had the clutch and clutch cover off when I took the engine out, which gave it some extra clearance. I already put that stuff back on, but I figure there must be a way to get it in without taking that stuff off again.

If you put the motorcycle on a MX stand so it is upright and squeeze the engine back in on the throttle side is what works for me. You have to remove the foot brake and master cylinder but it worked for me. It is a heavy engine get someone to help you from the other side.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:08 AM   #75786
frecks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis53 View Post
If you put the motorcycle on a MX stand so it is upright and squeeze the engine back in on the throttle side is what works for me. You have to remove the foot brake and master cylinder but it worked for me. It is a heavy engine get someone to help you from the other side.
That's what I had tried, except I just had the bike on the kickstand. I wouldn't have though that having it upright would make that big of a difference, but maybe it will make enough. I don't have an mx stand, so I'll try to get it up on a milk crate or something similar. Thanks for the idea to make the bike sit upright.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:03 PM   #75787
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WASHER GONE!
Several posts around here on the NSU, but yes you'll have to make/buy some sort of tool to get that thing out. I have a set of small right-angle tools with inserts that I used. A phillips bit held by vise-grips has also been effective for some folks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattomachu View Post
Yeah.. Thanks everyone for your input. The clutch side was pretty easy to fish the washer out. I'm now in the process of replacing the NSU screws. how does one get the top screw out. I'm thinking right handle phillips similar to an allen key? Here is a pick of that darn washer.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:31 PM   #75788
JagLite
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Pissed Engine in

Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks View Post
This may sound dumb, but I'm struggling to get my newly rebuilt engine back in the frame. Does anyone have any tips on how to squeeze it back in? If I remember correctly, I think I already had the clutch and clutch cover off when I took the engine out, which gave it some extra clearance. I already put that stuff back on, but I figure there must be a way to get it in without taking that stuff off again.
Not a dumb question at all as many of us have struggled to get it back in.
First thing, the shop manual is wrong.
It says to put it in from the left side (shifter side).
That will waste a lot of your time like it did for me.
Finally I realized the picture (drawing?) they show is NOT the '96+ bike frame.
Our bikes have a removable engine mount on the RIGHT side, not the left.

OK, next thing to know is it will only go in by slightly twisting or rotating it to get the bump on the front of the engine case in between the frame rails.
Once you get that started in you adjust the engine so it will squeeze into position.
Many have found that laying the engine on its right side and then lowering the frame down over it was easier to do.
I used my engine hoist and lowered the engine on its side down into the newly painted frame so that I wasn't trying to support the 100+ lbs engine and work it into the frame.

It will go in fine with the side case covers on, but no carby of course.
It can certainly be done with the bike vertical or on the kick stand.
The problem is that if you are trying to support the engine weight AND wiggle it around you may injure your back.
Or your hands as they get trapped between engine and frame.
Or your sanity since you know it came out, but???!!!

I stick the front engine mount plate and bolts in as soon as I can as that holds it in one plane while lining up the other bolts.

First time is often painful and frustrating.
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:11 PM   #75789
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
My guess is that sun exposure is the determining factor, where I am at high altitude in Arizona with 320 or so sunny days a year unprotected plastic does not last long. Generally speaking clear is the worst because the uv is able to penetrate the full depth, solid non transparent colors last longer.
Good point, the sun factor. Mine has been inside a garage most of the time unless it's being ridden. It doesn't look or feel brittle, but I was just curious.
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:59 PM   #75790
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
WASHER GONE!
Several posts around here on the NSU, but yes you'll have to make/buy some sort of tool to get that thing out. I have a set of small right-angle tools with inserts that I used. A phillips bit held by vise-grips has also been effective for some folks.
maybe: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-offse..._tnt=39869:4:0









Enlarge Image



I have one, but I don't know if it works because I have Allen head cap screws on the NSU. I use a special home cut-down allen key to do mine.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:49 PM   #75791
ER70S-2
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JagLite:
Nice write-up.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:11 PM   #75792
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Not a dumb question at all as many of us have struggled to get it back in.
First thing, the shop manual is wrong.
It says to put it in from the left side (shifter side).
That will waste a lot of your time like it did for me.
Finally I realized the picture (drawing?) they show is NOT the '96+ bike frame.
Our bikes have a removable engine mount on the RIGHT side, not the left.

OK, next thing to know is it will only go in by slightly twisting or rotating it to get the bump on the front of the engine case in between the frame rails.
Once you get that started in you adjust the engine so it will squeeze into position.
Many have found that laying the engine on its right side and then lowering the frame down over it was easier to do.
I used my engine hoist and lowered the engine on its side down into the newly painted frame so that I wasn't trying to support the 100+ lbs engine and work it into the frame.

It will go in fine with the side case covers on, but no carby of course.
It can certainly be done with the bike vertical or on the kick stand.
The problem is that if you are trying to support the engine weight AND wiggle it around you may injure your back.
Or your hands as they get trapped between engine and frame.
Or your sanity since you know it came out, but???!!!

I stick the front engine mount plate and bolts in as soon as I can as that holds it in one plane while lining up the other bolts.

First time is often painful and frustrating.
and next time put the bottom end in the frame before you bolt the top end on. gives a lot more wiggle room and a lot less weight.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:45 PM   #75793
CafeRacer
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My god. What the hell is the stock throttle grip attached with?

How the hell does one get it off?
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:53 PM   #75794
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeRacer View Post
My god. What the hell is the stock throttle grip attached with?

How the hell does one get it off?

It's bonded on.
The hard way, grind it off. The easy way, get a $10 replacement throttle tube.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:55 PM   #75795
Krusty ...
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Location: Richardson, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeRacer View Post
My god. What the hell is the stock throttle grip attached with?

How the hell does one get it off?
The grip is bonded to the tube. Removing it involves slicing or grinding- and patience. Many simply swap on a new tube.
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