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Old 04-24-2013, 09:39 AM   #76066
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,633
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Chain roller removal...why? Cuz I said so!


Fuel tap change? To what? Why? Not necessary, but if you do, Yamaha Raptor tap about $20, that's what I use.


Neutral safety switches? Absolutely. The kickstand one cuts the engine when landing off jumps or crossing logs.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:08 AM   #76067
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
The OEM Mikuni #140 main jet is installed ( I did not replace this one) and also I have a new OEM pilot air jet but I wasn't able to get the current one unscrewed from the carb body, it's stuck and seems to just break instead of coming out.
Bummer, sorry to hear of the stalling and hesitation. I would try again to get that Pilot Jet out. Maybe soak it with something? Get a really good screw driver on it ... and apply pressure. Also, try tapping on it a few times to break loose the corrosion. It may help.

Other than that ... I don't have a clue. Since you replaced every part in the Carb ... you can only hope they are all correct parts and that you installed them correctly. (which it sounds like you DID!)

I had similar problems a few years back. I found the Mikuni parts were expensive ... I just bought a near new BST40 from an inmate here.
I swapped in my Dyno Jet Needle and 155 main jet (open air box) and has been perfect since.

Best of luck tracking down the problem!
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:27 AM   #76068
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,475
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
This week I'm picking up a 2008 DR650 which is stock. I'm sure I'll be doing plenty of "improvements" over time to prepare it for my adventures. Until then I'd like to do whatever is needed to prevent getting stuck or blowing up the engine. This is my first priority.

What I think I know:
Neutral position switch loctite? Where?
Chain roller removal...why?
Fuel tap change? To what? Why?
Neutral safety switches?

Can I get some clarity on the above and whatever really matters that I don't know?

Thanks!
Some of us don't think it's necessary, and here's info for the leave it alone crowd.

http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/cp_...e/cpnov06.html
http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/cp_...e/cpaug07.html
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:31 AM   #76069
8gv
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
As far as jumping a DR650 goes...

I have been getting pretty good at jumping on top of my bike as it tries to crush me. That is on a KLR250. I believe this to be an even more important skill for a heavier bike. I've never been too proud to abandon ship when needed.

Intentionally jumping it?
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:46 AM   #76070
procycle
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Is there any down side to completely removing the neutral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.
Probably some loss in resale value. A potential future buyer may think of a non-working neutral light as something that would have to be fixed by a shop.
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:04 PM   #76071
NC Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
 
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 599
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The Mojave shock has adjustable rebound damping but the compression damping is fixed. There is no prevision to adjust the compression but it could be changed by altering the valve shim stack. This is pretty common for non-reservoir shocks as there is no place to actually put the compression adjuster. The internals are the same as Cogent's 'shock shaft assembly". It's the same stuff that Cogent puts inside their reworked shocks (which ProCycle has also).
Our Mojave shock is an all new full replacement shock and as Procycle said, since the reservoir is built into the main shock body, it isn't practical to include an external compression adjustment. Please note that the compression adjuster on the OEM shock has VERY, VERY limited effect on the stock OEM shock. The Rebound damping adjuster on the Mojave is a red anodized CNC'd thumb knob that gives the rider a very meaningful range of damper adjustment allowing him or her to match spring rates, loads and riding preferences. The type of adjuster included on the Mojave is a costly and parts intensive mechanical system that is standard equipment on high end shocks. The cost of implementation is why the OEM shock is lacking the facility. The internal valve stack is optomised for the bike as well as the shocks design. As pointed out, The Cogent Dynamics Mojave its a fully serviceable and revalvable shock.
I hope this answers the question. We think the high quality Mojave replacement shock for the DR with be a perfect match for many riders.

Rick
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:39 PM   #76072
TRAVELGUY
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Oddometer: 606
Sargent Seat

Just listed a DR650 Sargent seat in the flea market.

TravelGuy
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:44 PM   #76073
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Some of us don't think it's necessary, and here's info for the leave it alone crowd.

http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/cp_...e/cpnov06.html
http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/cp_...e/cpaug07.html
And those of us that have had it rip out, leaving a large hole in the frame, say remove it.
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:47 PM   #76074
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
The neutral switch he is referring to is the neutral safety switch, and has no effect on the indicator light. This switch is only to prohibit the bike from starting if it is in gear and the clutch safety switch is not engaged.
He's referring to the nsu unit. Which does control the light.
Not the side stand, or clutch switches.

There is no other neutral switch.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:09 PM   #76075
mill
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: AL azzcrk a.k.a Da Gump
Oddometer: 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
He's referring to the nsu unit. Which does control the light.
Not the side stand, or clutch switches.

There is no other neutral switch.
Haha!!! I knew I was wrong right after I posted next time just tell me to STFU!!!
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:17 PM   #76076
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
Oddometer: 8,944
Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
The neutral switch he is referring to is the neutral safety switch, and has no effect on the indicator light. This switch is only to prohibit the bike from starting if it is in gear and the clutch safety switch is not engaged.
Pretty sure he is talking about the NSU, and it does very much have an effect on the neutral light. Granted, NSU means neutral sending unit, but aside from yourself, the rest of us knew what he meant.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:24 PM   #76077
FuzzyNugs
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Loudoun County, VA
Oddometer: 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
As far as jumping a DR650 goes...

I have been getting pretty good at jumping on top of my bike as it tries to crush me. That is on a KLR250. I believe this to be an even more important skill for a heavier bike. I've never been too proud to abandon ship when needed.

Intentionally jumping it?
Who said the DR can't fly?
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:27 PM   #76078
Albie
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Location: NWA
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:28 PM   #76079
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuzzyNugs View Post
Who said the DR can't fly?
Flying's one thing, landings another.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:59 PM   #76080
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 3,638
I have Race Tech .7 springs in the front with emulators and a Race Tech Shock Shaft Assembly with 8.1 spring in the rear. The DR lands pretty nice (on the small jumps I've done). Very smooth.
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