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Old 04-23-2013, 11:48 AM   #76066
sunthechip
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Joined: May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
As long as the oil is above the minimum you are completely safe. That's what the minimum line is there for.
Thank you. Procycle is awesome btw
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:35 PM   #76067
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 285
Mojave Shock

Has anybody tried the new Mojave Shock from Procycle..........probably not as they've only just started selling them.

I spoke to their staff and I'm slightly confused about what the Mojave Shock offers. Staff member said it only has damping control but no compression but has Cogent's new internals (shaft etc all new). Where as the exchanged one (if I sent my stock shock to cogent) has damping and compression. To tell you the truth, I don't understand the two and maybe confusing myself.

Anyway, I'm sure the Mojave has to be an improvement over stock.
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Currently riding DR650 (2011)
Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:03 PM   #76068
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Has anybody tried the new Mojave Shock from Procycle..........probably not as they've only just started selling them.

I spoke to their staff and I'm slightly confused about what the Mojave Shock offers. Staff member said it only has damping control but no compression but has Cogent's new internals (shaft etc all new). Where as the exchanged one (if I sent my stock shock to cogent) has damping and compression. To tell you the truth, I don't understand the two and maybe confusing myself.

Anyway, I'm sure the Mojave has to be an improvement over stock.
The Mojave shock has adjustable rebound damping but the compression damping is fixed. There is no prevision to adjust the compression but it could be changed by altering the valve shim stack. This is pretty common for non-reservoir shocks as there is no place to actually put the compression adjuster. The internals are the same as Cogent's 'shock shaft assembly". It's the same stuff that Cogent puts inside their reworked shocks (which ProCycle has also).
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:45 PM   #76069
8gv
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
Oddometer: 2,115
What to do first...

This week I'm picking up a 2008 DR650 which is stock. I'm sure I'll be doing plenty of "improvements" over time to prepare it for my adventures. Until then I'd like to do whatever is needed to prevent getting stuck or blowing up the engine. This is my first priority.

What I think I know:
Neutral position switch loctite? Where?
Chain roller removal...why?
Fuel tap change? To what? Why?
Neutral safety switches?

Can I get some clarity on the above and whatever really matters that I don't know?

Thanks!
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:17 PM   #76070
mdrauh
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Loveland, CO
Oddometer: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Hi,

I checked my oil level today. I warmed the bike up for a few minutes, shut the engine off then checked through the sight glass. With the bike vertical, the level was hovering about 2 mm above the lower mark in the sight glass.

Could this have caused any engine damage? I changed the oil 1000 miles ago with 2 quarts of oil and a new filter.

Also, the bike has a small leak opposite the side of the cam bore plug - near the spark plugs. This is probably where some of the oil went. I am going to fix this soon.

Thanks.
oops, wrong thread altogether... nevermind.

mdrauh screwed with this post 04-23-2013 at 06:19 PM Reason: wrong number
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:01 PM   #76071
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 8,077
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Emmbeedee, do you happen to have an exact size for that cotter-pin / pin you're using (if it fits in without makign the castle nut slots larger)?
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:04 PM   #76072
Mambo Dave
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Location: Pompano Beach, FL
Oddometer: 3,835
Thanks!

I caught yer post there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:08 PM   #76073
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks!

I caught yer post there.
You're quick!
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:37 PM   #76074
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
This week I'm picking up a 2008 DR650 which is stock. I'm sure I'll be doing plenty of "improvements" over time to prepare it for my adventures. Until then I'd like to do whatever is needed to prevent getting stuck or blowing up the engine. This is my first priority.

What I think I know:
Neutral position switch loctite? Where?
Chain roller removal...why?
Fuel tap change? To what? Why?
Neutral safety switches?

Can I get some clarity on the above and whatever really matters that I don't know?

Thanks!
I would go to index thread and start reading. It's all there and very well layed out.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:54 PM   #76075
swamp
U lie&yo'breff stank
 
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: lower appalachia, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,666
Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post

And yes...I will be interested in one of your rebuild kits and "fuel enrichment" plungers to take with me upon my return in July. I will be sending you an email soon. Thank you for your condescending "tone"

Regards

Dick

sorry,
but thats funny
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:50 PM   #76076
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
This week I'm picking up a 2008 DR650 which is stock. I'm sure I'll be doing plenty of "improvements" over time to prepare it for my adventures. Until then I'd like to do whatever is needed to prevent getting stuck or blowing up the engine. This is my first priority.
Relax, unless you ride the DR like a 125cc motocrosser, you'll never hurt it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
What I think I know:
Neutral position switch loctite? Where? Neutral safety switch?
Same thing. All you'll ever need to know about the NSU.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Chain roller removal...why?
Because (one of the most reused photos on the internet):

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Fuel tap change? To what? Why?
I dunno, still using my stock vacuum petcock at 45,314 miles. There is just no way that I'm going to remember to turn the petcock off every time I park the bike for the night.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Can I get some clarity on the above and whatever really matters that I don't know?

Thanks!
It's almost summer here, there's nothing more important.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
MBD, that just about covers it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 04-23-2013 at 09:59 PM
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:45 PM   #76077
8gv
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Location: North central CT
Oddometer: 2,115
Thanks guys!
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:47 PM   #76078
8gv
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
Oddometer: 2,115
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Relax, unless you ride the DR like a 125cc motocrosser, you'll never hurt it.
I'll actually have to be conscious of my rpms. All my rides so far were 250cc or less and flogging has become S.O.P. for me.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:59 PM   #76079
deathu
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Location: Bucharest
Oddometer: 77
Off-idle hesitation/stalling

Guys,

I just finished rebuilding the top end of my '98 DR650, and I have this weird carb/jetting(?) issue I can't seem to find an explanation for: when the bike is warmed up, after idling for more than a minute, for example when waiting at a stop light the engine has an hesitation or sometimes just stalls as I try to take off or even blip the throttle in neutral. Sounds to me like running too rich at idle (am I right?). It happens ONLY if the bike idled for some amount of time, like a few minutes. It doesn't happen if it only idled for a few seconds.

I am using the stock BST40 carb with stock components, here is a list of the components I recently replaced (all with brand new stock, OEM parts):
- ALL orings
- pilot jet
- needle jet
- jet needle (6F19)
- plastic spacer under the needle E-ring
- diaphragm
- throttle valve (slide)
- throttle valve guide (with equiv. KTM part, as Suzuki doesn't seem to sell this separately)
- pilot screw (currently set to 1.5 turns out)
- fuel enrichener ("choke") plunger

The OEM Mikuni #140 main jet is installed ( I did not replace this one) and also I have a new OEM pilot air jet but I wasn't able to get the current one unscrewed from the carb body, it's stuck and seems to just break instead of coming out.
The needle E-ring is installed in the 3rd (standard) position.
I'm using a GSXR 40F0 pipe, with the stock exhaust header, and stock un-cut airbox, the snorkel is also installed. The air filter is a K&N, just cleaned and re-oiled.


Given the carb is clean and float height adjusted properly, what could cause this rich running at idle? I mean in the stock form, the DR650 is known to run a little bit lean. What strikes me is that even with my bone-stock configuration (apart from the exhaust) I have a rich condition and don't understand why... I'm running out of ideas... any help or suggestions would be highly appreciated.

LE. if it matters, we can't get pure gasoline here in Europe. All gas we can get has at least 5% ethanol.

deathu screwed with this post 04-24-2013 at 12:12 AM
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:14 AM   #76080
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 2,609
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Guys,

I just finished rebuilding the top end of my '98 DR650, and I have this weird carb/jetting(?) issue I can't seem to find an explanation for: when the bike is warmed up, after idling for more than a minute, for example when waiting at a stop light the engine has an hesitation or sometimes just stalls as I try to take off or even blip the throttle in neutral. Sounds to me like running too rich at idle (am I right?). It happens ONLY if the bike idled for some amount of time, like a few minutes. It doesn't happen if it only idled for a few seconds.

I am using the stock BST40 carb with stock components, here is a list of the components I recently replaced (all with brand new stock, OEM parts):
- ALL orings
- pilot jet
- needle jet
- jet needle (6F19)
- plastic spacer under the needle E-ring
- diaphragm
- throttle valve (slide)
- throttle valve guide (with equiv. KTM part, as Suzuki doesn't seem to sell this separately)
- pilot screw (currently set to 1.5 turns out)

The OEM Mikuni #140 main jet is installed ( I did not replace this one) and also I have a new OEM pilot air jet but I wasn't able to get the current one unscrewed from the carb body, it's stuck and seems to just break instead of coming out.
The needle E-ring is installed in the 3rd (standard) position.
I'm using a GSXR 40F0 pipe, with the stock exhaust header, and stock un-cut airbox, the snorkel is also installed. The air filter is a K&N, just cleaned and re-oiled.


Given the carb is clean and float height adjusted properly, what could cause this rich running at idle? I mean in the stock form, the DR650 is known to run a little bit lean. What strikes me is that even with my bone-stock configuration (apart from the exhaust) I have a rich condition and don't understand why... I'm running out of ideas... any help or suggestions would be highly appreciated.

LE. if it matters, we can't get pure gasoline here in Europe. All gas we can get has at least 5% ethanol.
I had a similar issue with my BST40 that I chased unsuccessfully by leaning off the pilot. Fixed it with an FCR. Upon subsequent reflection, I decided it may have been a fuel enrichener aka choke problem. Maybe?
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