ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-25-2013, 08:02 AM   #76096
Emmbeedee
Procrastinators
 
Emmbeedee's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,356
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
I would have to disagree on that. If the weld is done correct it will be stronger than any weld on the DR.
I've been a fabricator for over 40 years (aircraft/race car) I challenge anyone to prove these tig welds are not as strong as the factory pegs.

Nice work; no doubt yours is as good or better than the factory. I'd be more worried about the guy who bought himself a cheap Harbour Freight welder and thought he could do the same kind of work as you, though.
__________________
Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
Emmbeedee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 08:14 AM   #76097
NC Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
 
NC Rick's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 613
I personally am not sure about the chain roller issues. To me, the chain roller performs an important function by maintaining chain pull angle. Of the broken ones, it would be really interesting to know how many were set up in the rear "low" position when the breakage occurred or at some time in the bikes life prior to the failure?

I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder.

I remember riding the bike 2 up on stock suspension and hearing the noise from the crummy OEM roller. That is what motivated me to change to a rolled bearing job before the bike had 5K miles on it.
__________________
Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc.
motocd.com

NC Rick screwed with this post 04-25-2013 at 08:14 AM Reason: cant spell!
NC Rick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 08:17 AM   #76098
ram1000
Beastly Adventurer
 
ram1000's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Tricities Washington
Oddometer: 1,829
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
I personally am not sure about the chain roller issues. To me, the chain roller performs an important function by maintaining chain pull angle. Of the broken ones, it would be really interesting to know how many were set up in the rear "low" position when the breakage occurred or at some time in the bikes life prior to the failure?

I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder.

I remember riding the bike 2 up on stock suspension and hearing the noise from the crummy OEM roller. That is what motivated me to change to a rolled bearing job before the bike had 5K miles on it.
So how many problems have occurred since the roller was removed? None!
__________________
A good adventure bike will get you to where you wish you had a good dirt bike! (and back)
:2014 XC800 :2012 WR450
ram1000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 08:26 AM   #76099
Bronco638
Nobody Home
 
Bronco638's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee
I have the same slight gap between the clutch lever and the perch. Does that indicate an issue with the perch/lever pivot point or is everyone's DR like that?

TIA.
__________________
There are some simple thruths......and dogs know what they are - Joseph Duemer

Andy holds the lead. And he will, all the way to the Highway. Today is his day.
Bronco638 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 08:46 AM   #76100
DirtyDR650
Mud Lover
 
DirtyDR650's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Ozarks
Oddometer: 332
Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
I agree
When I read about guys cutting the peg mounts and re welding them I cringe. Holy fok! Do they know the pressure exerted there and the possible maiming of ones foot that can happen ? Whoa!
PCs lowered peg kit is too cheap, this is one area that i would not be Rube Goldfarbing
Yeah and jerking off will cause blindness so DON'T DO IT!!!

As Skunkwizard said a good welder can weld stronger than factory. If you're afraid it'll break then you're obviously not a good welder so DON'T DO IT!!!
__________________
"Life is like racing... you're either a spectator or a participant." ~ Steve McQueen
DirtyDR650 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 08:48 AM   #76101
8gv
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
Oddometer: 2,346
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
I would have to disagree on that. If the weld is done correct it will be stronger than any weld on the DR.
I've been a fabricator for over 40 years (aircraft/race car) I challenge anyone to prove these tig welds are not as strong as the factory pegs.


I want to believe but require scientific proof. Since I likely weigh more than you, I volunteer to test those pegs. Can you send them to me ASAP?
8gv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 09:26 AM   #76102
Albie
Kool Aid poisoner
 
Albie's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
Oddometer: 9,242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Wow, jumping over a shopping mall!
Apparently it's a new thing!

__________________
Good. Bad. I'm the guy with the gun.

Another day, another foot injury!
Albie is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 09:27 AM   #76103
FatChance
Road Captain
 
FatChance's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
Oddometer: 10,209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
How many times will this come around I wonder? If it's nothing to do with too tight a chain,then what pulls the roller out of the frame? Gravity?
I know many of you are new to bikes and adjusting things but....
If you have a valid point to make, there is no need to be condescending while doing so...
__________________
Pain in the Butte Ranch
Durango, Colorado

- Calculated risk or forbidden fruit?
FatChance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 09:41 AM   #76104
Foot dragger
singletracker
 
Foot dragger's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 12,818
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Nice work; no doubt yours is as good or better than the factory. I'd be more worried about the guy who bought himself a cheap Harbour Freight welder and thought he could do the same kind of work as you, though.
Exzacktly,guys see it on the internets and zappo they weld their footpegs up,maybe the 1st time they've tried welding.
The potential for extreme damage to body is there.
I bought some plates off ebay for 25.00,very heavy and thick,like the rest of the bike and the lowering of the pegs is good.

Were not all expert fabricators by a long shot.
__________________
Some bikes around at times
Foot dragger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 09:47 AM   #76105
Foot dragger
singletracker
 
Foot dragger's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 12,818
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
If the rear shock is compressed from a impact and the engine is under acceleration the chain is going to be tight no matter how it is adjusted!! Top run of the chain is always tight under acceleration.

TravelGuy
Your wrong on that one,if its TOO tight it can break the roller out of the frame,a bike is designed to use all it's suspension,not to have the chain be too tight and break parts off.
Ive jumped and thrashed my DR a good amount,I always set the chain tension on the loose side of the notches in the snail adjusters.
1 notch the wrong way on those el-cheapo adjusters and its way too tight.
Its silly to belabor this point yet it goes on.
__________________
Some bikes around at times
Foot dragger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 09:49 AM   #76106
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,215
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
...I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder...
Not every bike looses the upper chain roller but a high percentage of them do. Replacing the stock roller with a ball bearing unit does seem to help.

My own take on this is that the roller is positioned too low from the factory but the damage isn't caused by running the chain either too loose or too tight. Rather, because the roller is too low it gets smacked by the chain much more often than rollers on other bikes. After the roller has been smacked by the chain 1,440,000 times the thin metal of the frame tube has fatigued and cracked and the roller is eventually torn loose.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 09:50 AM   #76107
Mongle
Knuckle dragger
 
Mongle's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
I personally am not sure about the chain roller issues. To me, the chain roller performs an important function by maintaining chain pull angle. Of the broken ones, it would be really interesting to know how many were set up in the rear "low" position when the breakage occurred or at some time in the bikes life prior to the failure?

I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder.

I remember riding the bike 2 up on stock suspension and hearing the noise from the crummy OEM roller. That is what motivated me to change to a rolled bearing job before the bike had 5K miles on it.
When I was doing track days and sport bike suspension we found that the factory spec for chain play would put the chain tight when suspension was compressed. This was causing weird things with the rear suspension we kept trying to dial out. We started running the chain way looser and our suspension gremlins went away. We also found chains and sprockets lasted longer. Never had a problem with chain coming off, but we always double checked alignment and didn't go by the swingarm marks.

This has lead me to run my chains looser then factory specs on the rest of my bikes...DR included. I still have my upper roller after 20K miles (with factory chain/sprocket)- I am 220 lbs and often carry as much as another 70 lbs in gear (8.3 rear spring). I don't think twice about jumping my DR, bouncing it off rocks etc. You can barely see where the chain has touched the upper roller.

I believe the upper roller failures are due to chains that are too tight- and factory spec being too tight.

Just my observation- take it for what it is. I know everyone will do what they want anyway.
Mongle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 10:23 AM   #76108
Foot dragger
singletracker
 
Foot dragger's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 12,818
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
I personally am not sure about the chain roller issues. To me, the chain roller performs an important function by maintaining chain pull angle. Of the broken ones, it would be really interesting to know how many were set up in the rear "low" position when the breakage occurred or at some time in the bikes life prior to the failure?

I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder.

I remember riding the bike 2 up on stock suspension and hearing the noise from the crummy OEM roller. That is what motivated me to change to a rolled bearing job before the bike had 5K miles on it.
I do think the Suzuki factory puts the upper roller on there for a reason,and the stock roller is junk no doubt. I bet bottoming the mushy soft suspension to the point of smacking hard on bottom can wreck things including that roller.
It does seem like if there's not slack in the chain as intended by proper adjustment it would break the roller out of the frame.
My DR is set up on the stiff side and I set the sag at 1/3 of travel like they say to do,Ive beat it like a big dirtbike at times and it's obvious its too big and flexy of a bike to survive at that rate for long.

Top roller shows no undue wear,probably just lucky.
__________________
Some bikes around at times
Foot dragger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 10:26 AM   #76109
thump!
Adventurer
 
thump!'s Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I have the same slight gap between the clutch lever and the perch. Does that indicate an issue with the perch/lever pivot point or is everyone's DR like that?

TIA.
Your aftermarket clutch lever may not fit as precisely as the Suzuki part. In the picture it appears that the shoulder of the lever pivot bolt is not pulled down into the lever. If that's the case it would result in a lot of free play.
thump! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2013, 11:21 AM   #76110
deathu
Adventurer
 
deathu's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Bucharest
Oddometer: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Bummer, sorry to hear of the stalling and hesitation. I would try again to get that Pilot Jet out. Maybe soak it with something? Get a really good screw driver on it ... and apply pressure. Also, try tapping on it a few times to break loose the corrosion. It may help.
I finally managed to get that pilot air jet out it did involve some light hammering but that's it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I had similar problems a few years back. I found the Mikuni parts were expensive ... I just bought a near new BST40 from an inmate here.
I only wish I could do the same! But "near new" DR650 parts are an utopia in europe. Just about the same as "near new" Transalp parts would be in the states

Anyway... in the meanwhile I would really appreciate if someone with a stock, unmolested BST40 carb could tell me what the highlighed distance should be:


I suspect the throttle may be a little bit "too open" at idle on my carb. I just want to know how a stock bike carb is set up...
deathu is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014