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Old 04-24-2013, 09:52 PM   #76096
bobzilla
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good points all. this bike is being built to do long off road tours and it not much stock left at this point. infact I have no key, zero safety switches,different headlight,vapor speedo....basically all i have left of a 2001 dr 650 is a motor with 3 miles and a frame


Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Probably some loss in resale value. A potential future buyer may think of a non-working neutral light as something that would have to be fixed by a shop.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:52 PM   #76097
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I am guessing you have never watched a super slo-mo video of a motorcycle chain in action.

It does NOT travel a nice straight path as it appears when checking clearance statically as you suggest.

I do agree that a chain that is too tight will cause problems.
Not just roller problems but much more serious problems too.

However, I believe that many, if not most (and possibly all), of the chain rollers that have been forcibly removed were taken out by (slack) chain (deceleration) whip.

A tight chain will tear up the roller plastic and will be obviously wearing the roller. It will wear over time and would be more likely to bend the bolt than tear the weld off. The chain force would be like using a pry bar to bend the roller/bolt upwards. Has anyone ever found one bent up?

The force required to tear the frame out as it does is much more likely caused by a sudden extreme blow and not a gradual loading that the suspension compressing would deliver. (gradual in this case being milliseconds, but not instantaneous)

Ever play "crack the whip"?
That is what the chain does to the upper roller I believe.

The chain whip hits the roller like a sledge hammer.
check this out at about 3:20 for what JagLite is talking about. those little bits of metal do all kinds of crazy things right next to your foot.

The first year Part 1 from Rob Armstrong on Vimeo.

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Old 04-25-2013, 12:01 AM   #76098
Phreaky Phil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
check this out at about 3:20 for what JagLite is talking about. those little bits of metal do all kinds of crazy things right next to your foot.

The first year Part 1 from Rob Armstrong on Vimeo.

+1 on that. If you ever get an opportunity, watch the chain on a bike on a Dyno. Ugly
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:05 AM   #76099
NordieBoy
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Chain whip isn't going to rip a roller out.
If the suspension compressed while the engine is under load, it means the chain has got 20 or more hp trying to straighten it, and the roller is in the way...

On my 350, the roller is positioned much higher and has very minimal markings on it from the chain.
The DR top rollers get grooved to hell.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:40 AM   #76100
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Hey! Nice Pic Rich!
Man ... that sucker is fully BOTTOMED OUT! Glad the rider is not seated.Ouch! Anyone remember the story from the Aussie rider who was jumping his DR on a Moto track ... the foot peg BROKE OFF. I think he broke his ankle. Another good reason to not add lowered, re-welded pegs. Caution please.
I agree
When I read about guys cutting the peg mounts and re welding them I cringe. Holy fok! Do they know the pressure exerted there and the possible maiming of ones foot that can happen ? Whoa!
PCs lowered peg kit is too cheap, this is one area that i would not be Rube Goldfarbing
Lol




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Old 04-25-2013, 04:49 AM   #76101
Emmbeedee
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Love those Warp 9 levers! What a bargain! Thanks Procycle!

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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:09 AM   #76102
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
I agree
When I read about guys cutting the peg mounts and re welding them I cringe. Holy fok! Do they know the pressure exerted there and the possible maiming of ones foot that can happen ? Whoa!
PCs lowered peg kit is too cheap, this is one area that i would not be Rube Goldfarbing
Lol
So you're saying the footpeg brackets will contain the chain, and that the chain will come out at an angle enough so that re-welded brackets (at least the one on the chain's side) will let it injure a rider worse?
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:49 AM   #76103
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
So you're saying the footpeg brackets will contain the chain, and that the chain will come out at an angle enough so that re-welded brackets (at least the one on the chain's side) will let it injure a rider worse?
I understand from what he's saying that regardless of the chain issue, if you cut and reweld the riders footpegs, and do jumps on the DR, you're risking a broken footpeg, and possibly your ankle. Or worse, a jagged broken footpeg mount ripping your leg open as you land after the peg breaks off.

Nothing to do with the chain at all, though if you're really unlucky, it could break the top roller off at the same time but you may not be in a position to care, at that point.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:57 AM   #76104
SkunkWizard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
I agree
When I read about guys cutting the peg mounts and re welding them I cringe. Holy fok! Do they know the pressure exerted there and the possible maiming of ones foot that can happen ? Whoa!
PCs lowered peg kit is too cheap, this is one area that i would not be Rube Goldfarbing
Lol




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I would have to disagree on that. If the weld is done correct it will be stronger than any weld on the DR.
I've been a fabricator for over 40 years (aircraft/race car) I challenge anyone to prove these tig welds are not as strong as the factory pegs.



Also note that the bolt holes for the pegs in the frame thread all the way thru. take advantage of using a longer bolt to purchase the entire frame boss



The DR frame is wire welded you should do your cringing on the rest of the bike

Some of the other cringing things I've done to ponder


skid plate made of treated alloy



tool box & pannier rack



can mount w/pinned bracket



brake lever cut reshape & Kevlar/Carbon case guards



garmin mount

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Old 04-25-2013, 07:02 AM   #76105
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
I would have to disagree on that. If the weld is done correct it will be stronger than any weld on the DR.
I've been a fabricator for over 40 years (aircraft/race car) I challenge anyone to prove these tig welds are not as strong as the factory pegs.

Nice work; no doubt yours is as good or better than the factory. I'd be more worried about the guy who bought himself a cheap Harbour Freight welder and thought he could do the same kind of work as you, though.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:14 AM   #76106
NC Rick
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I personally am not sure about the chain roller issues. To me, the chain roller performs an important function by maintaining chain pull angle. Of the broken ones, it would be really interesting to know how many were set up in the rear "low" position when the breakage occurred or at some time in the bikes life prior to the failure?

I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder.

I remember riding the bike 2 up on stock suspension and hearing the noise from the crummy OEM roller. That is what motivated me to change to a rolled bearing job before the bike had 5K miles on it.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:17 AM   #76107
ram1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
I personally am not sure about the chain roller issues. To me, the chain roller performs an important function by maintaining chain pull angle. Of the broken ones, it would be really interesting to know how many were set up in the rear "low" position when the breakage occurred or at some time in the bikes life prior to the failure?

I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder.

I remember riding the bike 2 up on stock suspension and hearing the noise from the crummy OEM roller. That is what motivated me to change to a rolled bearing job before the bike had 5K miles on it.
So how many problems have occurred since the roller was removed? None!
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:26 AM   #76108
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee
I have the same slight gap between the clutch lever and the perch. Does that indicate an issue with the perch/lever pivot point or is everyone's DR like that?

TIA.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:46 AM   #76109
DirtyDR650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
I agree
When I read about guys cutting the peg mounts and re welding them I cringe. Holy fok! Do they know the pressure exerted there and the possible maiming of ones foot that can happen ? Whoa!
PCs lowered peg kit is too cheap, this is one area that i would not be Rube Goldfarbing
Yeah and jerking off will cause blindness so DON'T DO IT!!!

As Skunkwizard said a good welder can weld stronger than factory. If you're afraid it'll break then you're obviously not a good welder so DON'T DO IT!!!
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:48 AM   #76110
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
I would have to disagree on that. If the weld is done correct it will be stronger than any weld on the DR.
I've been a fabricator for over 40 years (aircraft/race car) I challenge anyone to prove these tig welds are not as strong as the factory pegs.


I want to believe but require scientific proof. Since I likely weigh more than you, I volunteer to test those pegs. Can you send them to me ASAP?
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