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Old 04-25-2013, 09:26 AM   #76111
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Wow, jumping over a shopping mall!
Apparently it's a new thing!

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Old 04-25-2013, 09:27 AM   #76112
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
How many times will this come around I wonder? If it's nothing to do with too tight a chain,then what pulls the roller out of the frame? Gravity?
I know many of you are new to bikes and adjusting things but....
If you have a valid point to make, there is no need to be condescending while doing so...
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:41 AM   #76113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Nice work; no doubt yours is as good or better than the factory. I'd be more worried about the guy who bought himself a cheap Harbour Freight welder and thought he could do the same kind of work as you, though.
Exzacktly,guys see it on the internets and zappo they weld their footpegs up,maybe the 1st time they've tried welding.
The potential for extreme damage to body is there.
I bought some plates off ebay for 25.00,very heavy and thick,like the rest of the bike and the lowering of the pegs is good.

Were not all expert fabricators by a long shot.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:47 AM   #76114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
If the rear shock is compressed from a impact and the engine is under acceleration the chain is going to be tight no matter how it is adjusted!! Top run of the chain is always tight under acceleration.

TravelGuy
Your wrong on that one,if its TOO tight it can break the roller out of the frame,a bike is designed to use all it's suspension,not to have the chain be too tight and break parts off.
Ive jumped and thrashed my DR a good amount,I always set the chain tension on the loose side of the notches in the snail adjusters.
1 notch the wrong way on those el-cheapo adjusters and its way too tight.
Its silly to belabor this point yet it goes on.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:49 AM   #76115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
...I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder...
Not every bike looses the upper chain roller but a high percentage of them do. Replacing the stock roller with a ball bearing unit does seem to help.

My own take on this is that the roller is positioned too low from the factory but the damage isn't caused by running the chain either too loose or too tight. Rather, because the roller is too low it gets smacked by the chain much more often than rollers on other bikes. After the roller has been smacked by the chain 1,440,000 times the thin metal of the frame tube has fatigued and cracked and the roller is eventually torn loose.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:50 AM   #76116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
I personally am not sure about the chain roller issues. To me, the chain roller performs an important function by maintaining chain pull angle. Of the broken ones, it would be really interesting to know how many were set up in the rear "low" position when the breakage occurred or at some time in the bikes life prior to the failure?

I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder.

I remember riding the bike 2 up on stock suspension and hearing the noise from the crummy OEM roller. That is what motivated me to change to a rolled bearing job before the bike had 5K miles on it.
When I was doing track days and sport bike suspension we found that the factory spec for chain play would put the chain tight when suspension was compressed. This was causing weird things with the rear suspension we kept trying to dial out. We started running the chain way looser and our suspension gremlins went away. We also found chains and sprockets lasted longer. Never had a problem with chain coming off, but we always double checked alignment and didn't go by the swingarm marks.

This has lead me to run my chains looser then factory specs on the rest of my bikes...DR included. I still have my upper roller after 20K miles (with factory chain/sprocket)- I am 220 lbs and often carry as much as another 70 lbs in gear (8.3 rear spring). I don't think twice about jumping my DR, bouncing it off rocks etc. You can barely see where the chain has touched the upper roller.

I believe the upper roller failures are due to chains that are too tight- and factory spec being too tight.

Just my observation- take it for what it is. I know everyone will do what they want anyway.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:23 AM   #76117
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
I personally am not sure about the chain roller issues. To me, the chain roller performs an important function by maintaining chain pull angle. Of the broken ones, it would be really interesting to know how many were set up in the rear "low" position when the breakage occurred or at some time in the bikes life prior to the failure?

I realize that the frame welds could be inconsistent but the fact that mine has not had a problem in some 35,000+ miles (few of them easy) makes me wonder.

I remember riding the bike 2 up on stock suspension and hearing the noise from the crummy OEM roller. That is what motivated me to change to a rolled bearing job before the bike had 5K miles on it.
I do think the Suzuki factory puts the upper roller on there for a reason,and the stock roller is junk no doubt. I bet bottoming the mushy soft suspension to the point of smacking hard on bottom can wreck things including that roller.
It does seem like if there's not slack in the chain as intended by proper adjustment it would break the roller out of the frame.
My DR is set up on the stiff side and I set the sag at 1/3 of travel like they say to do,Ive beat it like a big dirtbike at times and it's obvious its too big and flexy of a bike to survive at that rate for long.

Top roller shows no undue wear,probably just lucky.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:26 AM   #76118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I have the same slight gap between the clutch lever and the perch. Does that indicate an issue with the perch/lever pivot point or is everyone's DR like that?

TIA.
Your aftermarket clutch lever may not fit as precisely as the Suzuki part. In the picture it appears that the shoulder of the lever pivot bolt is not pulled down into the lever. If that's the case it would result in a lot of free play.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:21 AM   #76119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Bummer, sorry to hear of the stalling and hesitation. I would try again to get that Pilot Jet out. Maybe soak it with something? Get a really good screw driver on it ... and apply pressure. Also, try tapping on it a few times to break loose the corrosion. It may help.
I finally managed to get that pilot air jet out it did involve some light hammering but that's it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I had similar problems a few years back. I found the Mikuni parts were expensive ... I just bought a near new BST40 from an inmate here.
I only wish I could do the same! But "near new" DR650 parts are an utopia in europe. Just about the same as "near new" Transalp parts would be in the states

Anyway... in the meanwhile I would really appreciate if someone with a stock, unmolested BST40 carb could tell me what the highlighed distance should be:


I suspect the throttle may be a little bit "too open" at idle on my carb. I just want to know how a stock bike carb is set up...
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:58 AM   #76120
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
With my still-improving amateur offroad skill, I'll wait until I have rebound damping out back before I try that.
Yea, that would be a good idea! My first Mexico trip my DR had the stock shock but I did replace springs front and rear. It wasn't horrible on Topes but not great. Then I got the Ohlins shock and Race Tecd'd the forks ... transformed it into a Berm Buster.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:08 PM   #76121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
So you're saying the footpeg brackets will contain the chain, and that the chain will come out at an angle enough so that re-welded brackets (at least the one on the chain's side) will let it injure a rider worse?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I understand from what he's saying that regardless of the chain issue, if you cut and reweld the riders footpegs, and do jumps on the DR, you're risking a broken footpeg, and possibly your ankle. Or worse, a jagged broken footpeg mount ripping your leg open as you land after the peg breaks off.

Nothing to do with the chain at all, though if you're really unlucky, it could break the top roller off at the same time but you may not be in a position to care, at that point.
Exactly! A broken peg is a very bad thing. I witnessed one break once ... luckily the riders foot/ankle was OK ... as he landed straight. Very lucky. But many times the ankle turns on landing ... and tremendous force of all your body weight and momentum come down on your ankle. Not good.

When I rode Enduros back in the 90's I often thought about my pegs and just how important they were, given in an Enduro I'd be doing HUNDREDS of jumps and landings in the 5 hour event. Everything is riding on your pegs as in an Enduro ... you STAND UP almost all the time. Here good boots also play a part. More support, less likely to break an ankle.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:14 PM   #76122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
I would have to disagree on that. If the weld is done correct it will be stronger than any weld on the DR.
I've been a fabricator for over 40 years (aircraft/race car) I challenge anyone to prove these tig welds are not as strong as the factory pegs.



Also note that the bolt holes for the pegs in the frame thread all the way thru. take advantage of using a longer bolt to purchase the entire frame boss
The DR frame is wire welded you should do your cringing on the rest of the bike
Some of the other cringing things I've done to ponder skid plate made of treated alloy tool box & pannier rack
You Sir, are an Artist! Those are some beautiful mods! I agree ... a properly done weld is secure ... probably better than stock. But sometimes even the stock pegs break. Fantastic skid plate and pipe bracket!
(me thinks Skunk Wizard is working at the Skunk Works! SR71?)

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 04-25-2013 at 04:12 PM Reason: Sp
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:34 PM   #76123
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
With my still-improving amateur offroad skill, I'll wait until I have rebound damping out back before I try that.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:51 PM   #76124
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+1!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
not every bike looses the upper chain roller but a high percentage of them do. Replacing the stock roller with a ball bearing unit does seem to help.

My own take on this is that the roller is positioned too low from the factory but the damage isn't caused by running the chain either too loose or too tight. Rather, because the roller is too low it gets smacked by the chain much more often than rollers on other bikes. After the roller has been smacked by the chain 1,440,000 times the thin metal of the frame tube has fatigued and cracked and the roller is eventually torn loose.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:20 PM   #76125
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I want to believe but require scientific proof. Since I likely weigh more than you, I volunteer to test those pegs. Can you send them to me ASAP?

Ahh!, grasshopper you’ve been schooled in thumper jive and have mad skills at procurement
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