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Old 04-25-2013, 09:26 AM   #76126
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I have the same slight gap between the clutch lever and the perch. Does that indicate an issue with the perch/lever pivot point or is everyone's DR like that?

TIA.
Your aftermarket clutch lever may not fit as precisely as the Suzuki part. In the picture it appears that the shoulder of the lever pivot bolt is not pulled down into the lever. If that's the case it would result in a lot of free play.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:21 AM   #76127
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Bummer, sorry to hear of the stalling and hesitation. I would try again to get that Pilot Jet out. Maybe soak it with something? Get a really good screw driver on it ... and apply pressure. Also, try tapping on it a few times to break loose the corrosion. It may help.
I finally managed to get that pilot air jet out it did involve some light hammering but that's it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I had similar problems a few years back. I found the Mikuni parts were expensive ... I just bought a near new BST40 from an inmate here.
I only wish I could do the same! But "near new" DR650 parts are an utopia in europe. Just about the same as "near new" Transalp parts would be in the states

Anyway... in the meanwhile I would really appreciate if someone with a stock, unmolested BST40 carb could tell me what the highlighed distance should be:


I suspect the throttle may be a little bit "too open" at idle on my carb. I just want to know how a stock bike carb is set up...
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:58 AM   #76128
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
With my still-improving amateur offroad skill, I'll wait until I have rebound damping out back before I try that.
Yea, that would be a good idea! My first Mexico trip my DR had the stock shock but I did replace springs front and rear. It wasn't horrible on Topes but not great. Then I got the Ohlins shock and Race Tecd'd the forks ... transformed it into a Berm Buster.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:08 AM   #76129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
So you're saying the footpeg brackets will contain the chain, and that the chain will come out at an angle enough so that re-welded brackets (at least the one on the chain's side) will let it injure a rider worse?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I understand from what he's saying that regardless of the chain issue, if you cut and reweld the riders footpegs, and do jumps on the DR, you're risking a broken footpeg, and possibly your ankle. Or worse, a jagged broken footpeg mount ripping your leg open as you land after the peg breaks off.

Nothing to do with the chain at all, though if you're really unlucky, it could break the top roller off at the same time but you may not be in a position to care, at that point.
Exactly! A broken peg is a very bad thing. I witnessed one break once ... luckily the riders foot/ankle was OK ... as he landed straight. Very lucky. But many times the ankle turns on landing ... and tremendous force of all your body weight and momentum come down on your ankle. Not good.

When I rode Enduros back in the 90's I often thought about my pegs and just how important they were, given in an Enduro I'd be doing HUNDREDS of jumps and landings in the 5 hour event. Everything is riding on your pegs as in an Enduro ... you STAND UP almost all the time. Here good boots also play a part. More support, less likely to break an ankle.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:14 AM   #76130
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
I would have to disagree on that. If the weld is done correct it will be stronger than any weld on the DR.
I've been a fabricator for over 40 years (aircraft/race car) I challenge anyone to prove these tig welds are not as strong as the factory pegs.



Also note that the bolt holes for the pegs in the frame thread all the way thru. take advantage of using a longer bolt to purchase the entire frame boss
The DR frame is wire welded you should do your cringing on the rest of the bike
Some of the other cringing things I've done to ponder skid plate made of treated alloy tool box & pannier rack
You Sir, are an Artist! Those are some beautiful mods! I agree ... a properly done weld is secure ... probably better than stock. But sometimes even the stock pegs break. Fantastic skid plate and pipe bracket!
(me thinks Skunk Wizard is working at the Skunk Works! SR71?)

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 04-25-2013 at 03:12 PM Reason: Sp
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:34 AM   #76131
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
With my still-improving amateur offroad skill, I'll wait until I have rebound damping out back before I try that.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:51 AM   #76132
TRAVELGUY
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+1!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
not every bike looses the upper chain roller but a high percentage of them do. Replacing the stock roller with a ball bearing unit does seem to help.

My own take on this is that the roller is positioned too low from the factory but the damage isn't caused by running the chain either too loose or too tight. Rather, because the roller is too low it gets smacked by the chain much more often than rollers on other bikes. After the roller has been smacked by the chain 1,440,000 times the thin metal of the frame tube has fatigued and cracked and the roller is eventually torn loose.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:20 PM   #76133
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I want to believe but require scientific proof. Since I likely weigh more than you, I volunteer to test those pegs. Can you send them to me ASAP?

Ahh!, grasshopper you’ve been schooled in thumper jive and have mad skills at procurement
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:22 PM   #76134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Your aftermarket clutch lever may not fit as precisely as the Suzuki part. In the picture it appears that the shoulder of the lever pivot bolt is not pulled down into the lever. If that's the case it would result in a lot of free play.
The lever pivot bolt is in as far as it can go. It's shouldered. Probably so it'll work with crappy Suzuki hand guards which attach at that point.

Bronco638: The gap between the lever and mount could be just standard cable slack. I have not been back out to the bike to see if I can make it line up properly. Will check later.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:40 PM   #76135
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I have the same slight gap between the clutch lever and the perch. Does that indicate an issue with the perch/lever pivot point or is everyone's DR like that?
Both of ours line up perfectly.



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Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:22 PM   #76136
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Bet he was wishing he was wearing gear instead of a silly police uniform.
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Another day, another foot injury!
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:36 PM   #76137
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Actually had my Husky 610 foot peg bolt shear right off. That sucked ill tell ya.


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Old 04-25-2013, 04:01 PM   #76138
sunthechip
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Is it necessary to remove the spark plugs when adjusting the valve clearance, and why do people take them out?
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:19 PM   #76139
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Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Is it necessary to remove the spark plugs when adjusting the valve clearance, and why do people take them out?
Just one. It makes it a hell of a lot easier to turn the motor over that way to get to TDC.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:10 PM   #76140
FatChance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Just one. It makes it a hell of a lot easier to turn the motor over that way to get to TDC.
And he should know that there are two top dead centers. Make sure to get the right one on the compression stroke.


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