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Old 04-26-2013, 04:33 PM   #76156
Motodeficient
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 448
Would love to get a shorty brake lever to go with my MSR pro-raptor clutch perch and shorty lever, sounds like the Warp 9 shorty brake lever is a ways off though.

Does the Warp9 brake lever Procycle currently sells replace the stock upper perch clamp? Thats what it looks like from the picture on the website... If so that would be perfect for me since I don't use the mirror mount on the stock upper brake perch clamp.
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:50 PM   #76157
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Think it's more related to miles or time? How many years before you had 15k miles?
That's possible. I installed the 2nd set (that's in there now) Sept 2011, at 26,600 and they're very hard too. It took me six years to get to 15k (2010), I've been making up for lost time over the last three years.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:07 AM   #76158
dentedvw
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Location: ☼SLC-ish☼
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Yesterday I bought another rider's (maybe an ADV rider?) DR project. It was located at Edge Motorsports in Draper, UT. It was a bit spendy, but it had all the bits I was looking for, and I don't have to go and add them. It rides nice, and once the electrical system was properly buggered with by the shop, it even started, had a horn, and brake lights.
One thing I wouldn't have done though is the Ti street bike exhaust. Huyabusa, or something like that. Here is the problem, it's loose. Real loose. So loose that some of the exhaust comes out the front of the can, but most out the back.
Does anyone know how these are supposed to be properly installed? Is it possible the pipe hasn't been flanged properly, or is there a plate that might be missing? Some kind of gasket?

And since I don't know anything about this exhaust, can it be repacked? It's a bit loud, but perhaps that's a function of some of the exhaust exiting the front of the can.

Since this is my first DR650, and it's used, what should I be checking for? It's only got a bit under 2k miles, and it's a 2008.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:25 AM   #76159
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw
...One thing I wouldn't have done though is the Ti street bike exhaust. Huyabusa, or something like that. Here is the problem, it's loose. Real loose. So loose that some of the exhaust comes out the front of the can, but most out the back.
Does anyone know how these are supposed to be properly installed? Is it possible the pipe hasn't been flanged properly, or is there a plate that might be missing? Some kind of gasket?

And since I don't know anything about this exhaust, can it be repacked? It's a bit loud, but perhaps that's a function of some of the exhaust exiting the front of the can.
Something is not right. There should not be any gases escaping at the front of the can. Check KienTech's web site. I believe there is a gasket that goes between the mid-pipe and the can. I have a 40 (GSXR750?) can on my DR and I think it sounds great. Not loud at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw
Since this is my first DR650, and it's used, what should I be checking for? It's only got a bit under 2k miles, and it's a 2008.
Make sure the oil has been changed, check for loose fasteners/bearings, check the air in the tires and enjoy. This is my fourth DR (of various displacements) and they are some of the most maintenance free vehicles I have ever owned.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:24 AM   #76160
JagLite
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Question What muffler is it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw View Post
Yesterday I bought another rider's (maybe an ADV rider?) DR project.

One thing I wouldn't have done though is the Ti street bike exhaust. Huyabusa, or something like that. Here is the problem, it's loose. Real loose. So loose that some of the exhaust comes out the front of the can, but most out the back.
Does anyone know how these are supposed to be properly installed? Is it possible the pipe hasn't been flanged properly, or is there a plate that might be missing? Some kind of gasket?

And since I don't know anything about this exhaust, can it be repacked? It's a bit loud, but perhaps that's a function of some of the exhaust exiting the front of the can.
What exactly does it say on side of the muffler?

If it is a Suzuki muffler it will have the part number and the usual disclaimer.
On the end cap it might say Titanium, certain ones do.
If it is a stock Suzuki muffler from another bike, it does NOT need repacking, ever.
It WILL use a gasket between the mid-pipe and muffler, inside the bolted flange.

If it is not a Suzuki muffler then it probably does require repacking and it may always be too loud.
Can you post pictures of the muffler, the front flange connection to the mid-pipe, and the muffler hanger tab?
If it is not a genuine Suzuki muffler that will help us figure out what it is.

The mid-pipe also has a gasket between it and the headpipe, could that be leaking?
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:31 AM   #76161
dentedvw
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I will definitely post the part number, I pick it up this morning, as soon as my wife gets out of the shower.
It's a Suzuki unit for sure, I didn't remember the number on it though, and it does say Titanium on the end.

How can I check some bearings while I am at the dealer? When I was riding it, there was some rattles I couldn't identify right away. Some of it was probably the can, and also it has one of those helmet lock dangly things on the back because of an aluminum rack in the way of the lock.

The speedometer is a bit hard to read, tucked away as it is in the clutter of the handle bar area. Is there a way to make it more visible? Perhaps moving it up?

I have always had good experiences with my DRZ, and I hope for the same from the DR. It's one of the reasons I chose a DR over a KLR.
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"Even though my trip turned out badly, I don't regret the kind of life I chose to live. Adventure!" RIP-Clay Schwartz 9/14/07
The bike never has been, never is, and never will be the limiting factor in my, your, or anyone else's ability to have an adventure. -jake28-
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:27 AM   #76162
TrophyHunter
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The rattling sound may be the upper chain roller. It was on mine. Go back 10 - 20 pages on this thread and read everything. It repeats often.

With any bike I pick up, I go front to back checking every nut & bolt, adjustments, etc. I buy the shop manual and measure tolerences - reasonable here - stuff I can see and get to without disassembly. Edit: 'cept the valve adjustment. Unless I know the shop or PO just changed the oil/filter & cleaned the air filter, that gets done.

I was raised by a mechanical engineer and my first 2 bikes came home in pieces. "you wanna ride, you'll have to learn about bikes" One of the best things that happened to me.
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TrophyHunter screwed with this post 04-27-2013 at 11:45 AM
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:23 PM   #76163
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
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x ring and DID x ring

Apologies if this topic has been discussed a hundred times previously ( I did search).

I need to know the difference between an x ring chain and a "DID x ring chain"?? There seems to be a bit of a price difference between the two. Obviously the DID x ring would be superior quality which is reflected nearly double the cost of a standard x ring chain.

cheap: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370283100...84.m1423.l2649

expensive: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DID-X-RIN...1610e11&_uhb=1


thanks
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Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod

Thumper Dan screwed with this post 04-27-2013 at 04:29 PM
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:32 PM   #76164
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Apologies if this topic has been discussed a hundred times previously ( I did search).

I need to know the difference between an x ring chain and a "DID x ring chain"?? There seems to be a bit of a price difference between the two. Obviously the DID x ring would be superior quality which is reflected nearly double the cost of a standard x ring chain.

cheap: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370283100...84.m1423.l2649

expensive: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DID-X-RIN...1610e11&_uhb=1


thanks
I'd say pretty obvious but not stated, the cheaper one is no doubt from China, while the DID is a Japanese chain. Your choice.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:51 PM   #76165
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Apologies if this topic has been discussed a hundred times previously ( I did search).

I need to know the difference between an x ring chain and a "DID x ring chain"?? There seems to be a bit of a price difference between the two. Obviously the DID x ring would be superior quality which is reflected nearly double the cost of a standard x ring chain.

cheap: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370283100...84.m1423.l2649

expensive: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DID-X-RIN...1610e11&_uhb=1


thanks
DID is a Japanese company that has been making chains for decades. One of the best in Japan and first to use X ring technology on chains, as opposed to O ring. DID make a variety of chains for the DR650. The best are the X ring series. Previous VM-2 series (now super ceded) may still be available and a bit cheaper. But the current line is the VX Series chains.

In the USA DID are now offering complete kits ... chain and sprockets. I don't know who makes the sprockets but I assume they are Japanese made? (a good thing).

The cheap chain shown in your link is most likely a Chinese version. NOTE that no where in the Ebay blurb do they say where the chain is made. This should be a warming.

The Chinese are doing many things very well and progressing rapidly in quality. But AFAIK, their chains are not much good at this point. I'm sure this will change soon ... you can never count them out. But once they make chains as good as DID, RK, Regina or EK, the cost will probably be close to the same as Japanese chains.

FYI, i've put around 200,000 miles on DID X Ring chains. All good, tremendous service life, low maintenance.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:04 PM   #76166
GotDR650
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Location: Germany, Harz region
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Hi guys, its been a long time. I've been out testing my HD Drift Cam and i'd like to share a couple of vides with you.
More to come this Season (If summer ever reaches Germany) ;(

Hope you enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdDIjBkr5z8


Tobi
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:27 PM   #76167
crash alot
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Location: CHANDLER , IN
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did i get taken?

pulling the bike apart to put on acerbiz tank and another 1000.00 of goodies, anyway this is the back bone on my frame, does this look right? I think its been wrecked, it seems to ride ok, however I did think the bars were just a little bent.

did a search and cant seem to find any pictures of a bike without the tank on.










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Old 04-27-2013, 05:32 PM   #76168
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash alot View Post
pulling the bike apart to put on acerbiz tank and another 1000.00 of goodies, anyway this is the back bone on my frame, does this look right? I think its been wrecked, it seems to ride ok, however I did think the bars were just a little bent.
That is horrible! I think you have been taken, depending on how much you paid.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:28 PM   #76169
Mambo Dave
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Seems they crushed it in to fit some other tank?
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:51 PM   #76170
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Pissed Totaled DR

Quote:
Originally Posted by crash alot View Post
pulling the bike apart to put on acerbiz tank and another 1000.00 of goodies, anyway this is the back bone on my frame, does this look right? I think its been wrecked, it seems to ride ok, however I did think the bars were just a little bent.

did a search and cant seem to find any pictures of a bike without the tank on.










YEEEEeeeeeoooooooooooocccccccccchhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
That frame is toasted!
That is the worst DR frame damage I have seen
I am guessing the flat spots are where they pressed it with a hydraulic press to try to straighten it.

That is a potential lawsuit there...

That said, the Dr is amazingly stout and if the wheels are in line it will probably ride fine.
If you are comfortable riding it that is.
I doubt the frame is repairable and that much damage to the frame may be accompanied with other hidden damage that was caused by the same wreck.

Look for cracked or broken engine mounting bosses on the cases as well as stress cracks.

Probably not an option, but if you can get your money back I would strongly recommend it!

If you are stuck with it, look for a good used frame or a bike with a blown up engine.

I am sorry to see that you are the victim of a very dishonest person selling something without disclosing the damage history.
Of course, it is possible the one who sold it to you didn't know either...

Best wishes in a difficult situation brother
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