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Old 04-26-2013, 11:25 AM   #76156
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I would go out for a long ride and watch that LED as you ride along. As long as it's green about half the time I wouldn't worry about it. Mine fluctuates back and forth from green to orange constantly (I forget what voltages those are supposed to indicate). It generally does not stay constant for more than 15 or 20 seconds, no matter low beam/high beam, electric vest/no vest, etc.

I watched it until it drove me crazy trying to figure it out, now I pretty much ignore it and try to watch the road, instead!

..........shu
I believe the shifting voltage reading is simply the Regulator/Rectifier doing it's job. It will react to load and RPM and battery condition. At higher RPM it may adjust to a lower voltage so as not to Cook the battery. Once a certain voltage level is reached at the battery, Reg/Rect will lower output. Add or subtract load, and all that changes.

The thing to do would be to take a ride using elec. vest and grips at 100%, high beam. Make it a longer ride, then note changes over time as battery loses ground to the too big load.

I run an HID headlight bulb to help mitigate the DR's measly charging output (this saves 20 Watts over stock H4 55 watt light). On very cold riding days, I switch off headlight to maintain a full charge at the Battery. At night I run my Elec. Jacket at about 75% and Grips on LOW. Not ideal but there it is. I've ridden 10 hours like this ... bike still started up fine. (I don't have a voltage LED monitor) In daytime running (10 hour days) with headlight OFF I can run all electrics at 100% and have NO loss in Battery voltage, no starting issues at all. YMMV, IMHO.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:00 PM   #76157
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I believe the shifting voltage reading is simply the Regulator/Rectifier doing it's job. It will react to load and RPM and battery condition. At higher RPM it may adjust to a lower voltage so as not to Cook the battery. Once a certain voltage level is reached at the battery, Reg/Rect will lower output. Add or subtract load, and all that changes.
Nope, it doesn't work that way. The voltage regulator is a very simple shunt device. When the voltage goes above a certain threshold the excess current is bled off to ground. There is no sensing of load or RPM.

It works very much like a spillway on a dam. The water can only get so high then pours over the edge.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:38 PM   #76158
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Vibes.....especially in the bars

I'm sure most of you know this....but for those that don't........

My DR currently has a little over 21k miles on it. Seems like for the past 6 months or so, the vibration has become terrible. I have carpal tunnel syndrome...so my wrists are very sensitive to vibration.

In any event, I tried to figure out what caused the vibes to get so bad on my bike. I rebuilt the carb, re-torqued all of the motor mount bolts (some were a little loose), double checked the chain alignment, put on new rubber and balanced the tires (front and rear). All of which improved the situation...but the bike was still vibey.

Then, for general maintenance purposes, I decided it was time to clean/re-grease all of the bearings. When I took off the rear wheel......the cush drive and all of the cush drive rubber inserts fell out onto the ground

So, after finishing up the bearing job, I INSTALLED NEW CUSH DRIVE RUBBER INSERTS. The improvement was incredible!!! Major improvement/reduction in vibration

Long story short if you're noticing more vibration than normal.....the cush drive rubbers may need replacement
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:57 PM   #76159
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So...
Does the Yamaha tap have a reserve?

Thanks for the replies guys!
Yes
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:53 PM   #76160
UberKul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Breeze View Post
I'm sure most of you know this....but for those that don't........

So, after finishing up the bearing job, I INSTALLED NEW CUSH DRIVE RUBBER INSERTS. The improvement was incredible!!! Major improvement/reduction in vibration

Long story short if you're noticing more vibration than normal.....the cush drive rubbers may need replacement
Thanks for the reminder. Does anyone know if there is a tolerance for the cush rubbers? Mine do fall out on their own during wheel changes but not sloppy loose.
This is where I get slammed for not using search.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:18 PM   #76161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberKul View Post
This is where I get slammed for not using search.
If everyone used search, my post count would be about 17.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UberKul View Post
Thanks for the reminder. Does anyone know if there is a tolerance for the cush rubbers? Mine do fall out on their own during wheel changes but not sloppy loose.
15k has been mentioned before. Mine were hard as cement by 15k miles. I have the third set ready to go in next time the wheel is off, I'm at 45,xxx. Some of mine fall out when I remove the wheel too.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:08 PM   #76162
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Breeze View Post
I'm sure most of you know this....but for those that don't........

My DR currently has a little over 21k miles on it. Seems like for the past 6 months or so, the vibration has become terrible. I have carpal tunnel syndrome...so my wrists are very sensitive to vibration.

In any event, I tried to figure out what caused the vibes to get so bad on my bike. I rebuilt the carb, re-torqued all of the motor mount bolts (some were a little loose), double checked the chain alignment, put on new rubber and balanced the tires (front and rear). All of which improved the situation...but the bike was still vibey.

Then, for general maintenance purposes, I decided it was time to clean/re-grease all of the bearings. When I took off the rear wheel......the cush drive and all of the cush drive rubber inserts fell out onto the ground

So, after finishing up the bearing job, I INSTALLED NEW CUSH DRIVE RUBBER INSERTS. The improvement was incredible!!! Major improvement/reduction in vibration

Long story short if you're noticing more vibration than normal.....the cush drive rubbers may need replacement
Thanks for the reminder,mine are due at 27,000 miles.If There is any play at all when you grab the sprocket and try to move it back and forth in the hub then they're shot
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:28 PM   #76163
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
...
15k has been mentioned before. Mine were hard as cement by 15k miles. I have the third set ready to go in next time the wheel is off, I'm at 45,xxx. Some of mine fall out when I remove the wheel too.
Think it's more related to miles or time? How many years before you had 15k miles?
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:33 PM   #76164
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Would love to get a shorty brake lever to go with my MSR pro-raptor clutch perch and shorty lever, sounds like the Warp 9 shorty brake lever is a ways off though.

Does the Warp9 brake lever Procycle currently sells replace the stock upper perch clamp? Thats what it looks like from the picture on the website... If so that would be perfect for me since I don't use the mirror mount on the stock upper brake perch clamp.
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:50 PM   #76165
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Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Think it's more related to miles or time? How many years before you had 15k miles?
That's possible. I installed the 2nd set (that's in there now) Sept 2011, at 26,600 and they're very hard too. It took me six years to get to 15k (2010), I've been making up for lost time over the last three years.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:07 AM   #76166
dentedvw
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Yesterday I bought another rider's (maybe an ADV rider?) DR project. It was located at Edge Motorsports in Draper, UT. It was a bit spendy, but it had all the bits I was looking for, and I don't have to go and add them. It rides nice, and once the electrical system was properly buggered with by the shop, it even started, had a horn, and brake lights.
One thing I wouldn't have done though is the Ti street bike exhaust. Huyabusa, or something like that. Here is the problem, it's loose. Real loose. So loose that some of the exhaust comes out the front of the can, but most out the back.
Does anyone know how these are supposed to be properly installed? Is it possible the pipe hasn't been flanged properly, or is there a plate that might be missing? Some kind of gasket?

And since I don't know anything about this exhaust, can it be repacked? It's a bit loud, but perhaps that's a function of some of the exhaust exiting the front of the can.

Since this is my first DR650, and it's used, what should I be checking for? It's only got a bit under 2k miles, and it's a 2008.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:25 AM   #76167
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw
...One thing I wouldn't have done though is the Ti street bike exhaust. Huyabusa, or something like that. Here is the problem, it's loose. Real loose. So loose that some of the exhaust comes out the front of the can, but most out the back.
Does anyone know how these are supposed to be properly installed? Is it possible the pipe hasn't been flanged properly, or is there a plate that might be missing? Some kind of gasket?

And since I don't know anything about this exhaust, can it be repacked? It's a bit loud, but perhaps that's a function of some of the exhaust exiting the front of the can.
Something is not right. There should not be any gases escaping at the front of the can. Check KienTech's web site. I believe there is a gasket that goes between the mid-pipe and the can. I have a 40 (GSXR750?) can on my DR and I think it sounds great. Not loud at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw
Since this is my first DR650, and it's used, what should I be checking for? It's only got a bit under 2k miles, and it's a 2008.
Make sure the oil has been changed, check for loose fasteners/bearings, check the air in the tires and enjoy. This is my fourth DR (of various displacements) and they are some of the most maintenance free vehicles I have ever owned.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:24 AM   #76168
JagLite
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Question What muffler is it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw View Post
Yesterday I bought another rider's (maybe an ADV rider?) DR project.

One thing I wouldn't have done though is the Ti street bike exhaust. Huyabusa, or something like that. Here is the problem, it's loose. Real loose. So loose that some of the exhaust comes out the front of the can, but most out the back.
Does anyone know how these are supposed to be properly installed? Is it possible the pipe hasn't been flanged properly, or is there a plate that might be missing? Some kind of gasket?

And since I don't know anything about this exhaust, can it be repacked? It's a bit loud, but perhaps that's a function of some of the exhaust exiting the front of the can.
What exactly does it say on side of the muffler?

If it is a Suzuki muffler it will have the part number and the usual disclaimer.
On the end cap it might say Titanium, certain ones do.
If it is a stock Suzuki muffler from another bike, it does NOT need repacking, ever.
It WILL use a gasket between the mid-pipe and muffler, inside the bolted flange.

If it is not a Suzuki muffler then it probably does require repacking and it may always be too loud.
Can you post pictures of the muffler, the front flange connection to the mid-pipe, and the muffler hanger tab?
If it is not a genuine Suzuki muffler that will help us figure out what it is.

The mid-pipe also has a gasket between it and the headpipe, could that be leaking?
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:31 AM   #76169
dentedvw
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I will definitely post the part number, I pick it up this morning, as soon as my wife gets out of the shower.
It's a Suzuki unit for sure, I didn't remember the number on it though, and it does say Titanium on the end.

How can I check some bearings while I am at the dealer? When I was riding it, there was some rattles I couldn't identify right away. Some of it was probably the can, and also it has one of those helmet lock dangly things on the back because of an aluminum rack in the way of the lock.

The speedometer is a bit hard to read, tucked away as it is in the clutter of the handle bar area. Is there a way to make it more visible? Perhaps moving it up?

I have always had good experiences with my DRZ, and I hope for the same from the DR. It's one of the reasons I chose a DR over a KLR.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:27 AM   #76170
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The rattling sound may be the upper chain roller. It was on mine. Go back 10 - 20 pages on this thread and read everything. It repeats often.

With any bike I pick up, I go front to back checking every nut & bolt, adjustments, etc. I buy the shop manual and measure tolerences - reasonable here - stuff I can see and get to without disassembly. Edit: 'cept the valve adjustment. Unless I know the shop or PO just changed the oil/filter & cleaned the air filter, that gets done.

I was raised by a mechanical engineer and my first 2 bikes came home in pieces. "you wanna ride, you'll have to learn about bikes" One of the best things that happened to me.
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