ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-27-2013, 07:52 PM   #76156
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Was that a rebuilt insurance deal? Or maybe you got one of those Moto Kiwi DR's that were "lightly crashed"? From Arizona? Whatever, looks serious.

RETURN TO SENDER! Sorry to see that.

PS: There is a guy who is about to part out his DR over on DRRiders.com. His engine is toast but rest of the bike is fine as far as I know. Good luck!
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2013, 08:01 PM   #76157
JagLite
Beastly Adventurer
 
JagLite's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 1,119
Eek Frame top tube pictures

I'm trying to find pictures of the frame...





This one isn't very clear and the rear of the top tube is ground down in this shot, but the top tube is straight in an undamaged frame.
best rear view picture I could find of the top tube:

__________________
Attitude ~
The difference between
Ordeal and Adventure
James
JagLite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2013, 09:13 PM   #76158
Foot dragger
singletracker
 
Foot dragger's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 12,822
Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
YEEEEeeeeeoooooooooooocccccccccchhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
That frame is toasted!
That is the worst DR frame damage I have seen
I am guessing the flat spots are where they pressed it with a hydraulic press to try to straighten it.

That is a potential lawsuit there...

That said, the Dr is amazingly stout and if the wheels are in line it will probably ride fine.
If you are comfortable riding it that is.
I doubt the frame is repairable and that much damage to the frame may be accompanied with other hidden damage that was caused by the same wreck.

Look for cracked or broken engine mounting bosses on the cases as well as stress cracks.

Probably not an option, but if you can get your money back I would strongly recommend it!

If you are stuck with it, look for a good used frame or a bike with a blown up engine.

I am sorry to see that you are the victim of a very dishonest person selling something without disclosing the damage history.
Of course, it is possible the one who sold it to you didn't know either...

Best wishes in a difficult situation brother
+1.
That bike was totaled and then straightened enough to sell.
The rest of the frame cant be in very good shape,takes 1 hell of a crash to bend a frame like that.

If you cant take it back Id find a frame if the rest of the bike seems ok.

(If it was me Id hunt the guy down that sold it to me and haunt his very existence)
__________________
Some bikes around at times
Foot dragger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2013, 09:16 PM   #76159
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,117
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash alot View Post
pulling the bike apart to put on acerbiz tank and another 1000.00 of goodies, anyway this is the back bone on my frame, does this look right? I think its been wrecked, it seems to ride ok, however I did think the bars were just a little bent.

did a search and cant seem to find any pictures of a bike without the tank on.

I'm a bit behind here but: the seller of that bike had s*x with you. I think that amount of damage should have a 'salvage' title, depending on state laws and the insurance company (I don't really know how all that chit works).

After you do his kneecaps, put the bike on a stand, straighten the front tire and look at the wheel alignment from the front and rear. It's a good thing if they're vertically parallel.

There is no way that damage was done without bending the forks, so........................... With the bike still on the stand, remove the front wheel, loosen 3 pinch bolts on one fork and spin the upper fork tube. If it's bent, it will be obvious, the bottom end of the fork will have huge runout. Check both forks. If they're straight, check the triple clamps carefully, that amount of damage will also be obvious if they haven't been replaced.

Thirdly(?): some time ago, there was a hooligan DR rider here that posted some photos of his damaged frame. He hit something so hard that the upper bearing cup of the steering head (in the frame not the actual bearing cup) was NOTICEABLY out of round. It was egg shaped and he thought it shouldn't be a problem. My point is: both bearing cups in the frame are easy to visually check with the tank off.

This looks professionally straightened:


Make sure the frame is round here:


And here:


This is the best photo of the frame that I could get with the tank on the bike. (JagLite got that covered)
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,402 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 04-27-2013 at 09:23 PM
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2013, 09:38 PM   #76160
crash alot
Gnarly Adventurer
 
crash alot's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: CHANDLER , IN
Oddometer: 177
thanks for the picture jaglite...

I guess I should have pulled the tank off before I bought this....but who does that. im just too trusting, no one to blame but me. I could post the dudes name and address who I bought it from, but he was the second owner. however, he wont return my text message.

there was a dent in stock tank and some markes on the fforks , like a low side, but the tank does not represent a crushed frame. and I did fell as if the bars were bent just a tad, so its all my fault I guess. the bike only has 3700miles on it and its a 2011.....but that may not be the actual speed o after seeing this .

motor mounts look new and no cracks in any welds, however the rubber mounts for the tank are off kilter a little. the acerbiz seems like it would stay on when bolted down, I cant lift it off the front.

ive ordered all the good stuff from procycle, jet kit, k&n, pro taper adaptors, full header, dr 250 tail kit, gold valve , heaver springs, pat walsh skid, pat walsh rear rack, extreame spot lights, not to mention protaper bars, gixer pipe with mid pipe, happy trails panniers...it was going to be a nice DR..

I may continue on, gotta sleep on it. thanks for all the replies. heres a shot with a straight edge down the center of frame, it seems to line up with the center of the steering head, but im far from being a frame guy or mechanic.




__________________
07 bmw k1200s..78 CB 550 custom
08 450 husaberg...klx 140L
05 ktm 950 adv
2011 ducati multi 1200 S
2011 DR 650......12 ural gear up
crash alot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2013, 09:44 PM   #76161
barko1
barko1
 
barko1's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
Oddometer: 3,310
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
The Chinese are doing many things very well and progressing rapidly in quality. But AFAIK, their chains are not much good at this point. I'm sure this will change soon ... you can never count them out. But once they make chains as good as DID, RK, Regina or EK, the cost will probably be close to the same as Japanese chains.
Plus the Chinese govt is a bunch of SOB's and their factories probably pollute 100x what a Japanese or US factory does.
__________________
DR650, 98 Bimota SB6R, Kawasaki 14, 67 X-6 Scrambler (apart), SL350K1 (apart), 77 Goldwing 1000, Triumph Thunderbird Sport, Triumph Daytona Super III, DR650, MZ Skorpian Sport Cup, 71 Triumph Daytona 500, KDX220
barko1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2013, 09:46 PM   #76162
crash alot
Gnarly Adventurer
 
crash alot's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: CHANDLER , IN
Oddometer: 177
er70s2....thanks, ill check....more to come, ive got some gazunta,s to calculate.....

anyone want to buy a good dr,
__________________
07 bmw k1200s..78 CB 550 custom
08 450 husaberg...klx 140L
05 ktm 950 adv
2011 ducati multi 1200 S
2011 DR 650......12 ural gear up
crash alot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2013, 09:49 PM   #76163
Ren20
Finding Touge
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 111
I took the time and did a comparison on the IMS and Acerbis gas tanks. Hopefully these can be good resource for those who are looking to buy bigger tanks. So I am keeping the acerbis tank for larger size, I like its look better as well.

I used the supplied manual petcock from acerbis. How do I block the vacuum hose?

IMS and Acerbis side by side.






on the bike.



Ren20 screwed with this post 04-27-2013 at 11:16 PM
Ren20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2013, 11:16 PM   #76164
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,117
Ren20:
Good series of pics.

The petcock screws into the plastic Acerbis tank with sheet metal screws. There are four in the photo, I bought two longer ones because I used the stock petcock and its flange is a bit thicker. Does the IMS have threaded metal inserts or does it also use screws into the plastic?


Crash alot:
I admire you not jumping up-n-down and pointing fingers. There's just too much of that going on in society today. However, you got lied to by either the first or second owner.

This will be a bigger problem if you're setting up a supermoto. I run a DOT knobby on the front so steering isn't quite as precise as SM tires would need.

If the wheels are aligned and you can get past this, the DR is awesome. I hit 45,512 miles today.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,402 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2013, 11:28 PM   #76165
Ren20
Finding Touge
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 111
The IMS tank has brass insert.

I didn't know I can fit the stock petcock. I do think the stock petcock has better built quality. I will just run the Acerbis petcock until it fails ( hopefully long time from now). However, I will buy an extra o ring just in case.

can anyone post picture of how you route the inline fuel filter? The one i got is pretty big. Where do I find those tiny ones?
Ren20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 12:21 AM   #76166
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
The IMS tank has brass inserts.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
I didn't know I can fit the stock petcock. I do think the stock petcock has better built quality. I will just run the Acerbis petcock until it fails (hopefully long time from now). However, I will buy an extra o ring just in case.
I used the stock petcock because there is no way I'll ever remember to shut it off every time I park the bike for the night.
With my high mileage (on the bike too ), I don't trust the needle and seat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
can anyone post picture of how you route the inline fuel filter? The one i got is pretty big. Where do I find those tiny ones?
There are some ideas here, including my use of the stock petcock on an Acerbis 5.3. I have no idea what the IMS petcock mounting surface looks like.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635647

g'nite
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,402 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 12:22 AM   #76167
blackcap
Studly Adventurer
 
blackcap's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 538
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash alot View Post


be careful checking the rest of the frame for damage. this photo looks like youve got some more damage just forward of the engine mounting. the disturbed paint is a good sign that there has been some movement there. if it were me id be checking the frame as best you can for straightness in every possible dimension you can think of starting with whats already been suggested here. if you happy with the handling and get the bars straightened up (its pretty common for DRs to have bars out of alignment, even after a light drop on the trail) id be marking out all the points on the frame that have the paint either cracked or "bubbled" like in this photo and getting a professional welder to cut those areas out and do a good job welding in some new sections of pipework. you should be able to get that mangled section of spine cut out completely and a new section welded into place. then either paint over the new parts or get the whole thing powdercoated again. or just buy a new frame if its cheaper.

one thing i wouldnt do is leave those areas of disturbed paint the way they are. they are a pretty good indicator of there being some microcracks hiding underneath that, given time and vibration, can develop into fractures. if you do decide to leave them then make sure that you start a serious weight training program so that youre strong enough to keep both halves of the bike together if the front and rear wheels do decide to part company
__________________
"One must die sometime and to die with ones boots on is very noble" - Carl Stearns Clancy, first RTW motorcycle, 1912-13

Australia to Iceland on a DR650 http://oztoice.wordpress.com
and facebook https://www.facebook.com/oztoice
blackcap is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 01:19 AM   #76168
deathu
Adventurer
 
deathu's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Bucharest
Oddometer: 77
Crash alot: that looks absolutely horrible! I can't imagine such a huge bend on the top tube not implying that other parts of the frame were bent (and eventually straightened) as well. I would definitely check the entire frame for other bends, especially the down tube running from the steering head to the underside of the engine (Eventually even take the top engine mount plates out - the triangular brackets that attach the cylinder head cover to the frame - to see if the engine was not re-mounted under tension. )

Personally I would contact the seller and try to get my money back. If that is not possible I think I would dismantle the bike and sell the good parts (frame goes to trash) & of course get another DR. Knowing you have a badly injured frame may take away the whole pleasure of riding after all.

If you want to check for straightness one important thing is for the steering head to lie in a plane that is normal to the swingarm pivot. Set the bike perfectly straight on a stand (you may need to remove the swingarm, I cant't remember if it's pivot axle is hollow or not), use wood wedges under the frame rails until the swingarm pivot axle is perfectly horisontal. At this point you need to check that that the fork tubes lie in a perfectly vertical plane.
deathu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 01:53 AM   #76169
Jammin
Living on a DR
 
Jammin's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
Oddometer: 1,543
Eek Need help with valve clearance mess up

Just realized that when I did my valve check in Cape Town, before putting the bike in a crate for her sea voyage to India, I messed up with the feeler gauges. Instead of using the 0.10 mm (middle of tolerance) for the intake valves, I used the 0.010" = 0.25 mm gauge. Bike starts up easily and runs well, did a 60 mile ride so far but valves sound loud.

I would just go back and redo the valve check but in Cape Town the crankshaft cap got stripped. I got it to TDC by spinning the rear wheel in gear.

I'm just about to set off on a tour around India on Tuesday. How critical is it to redo the valve clearance or can I leave it as it is? Intake valves tighten up over time, right? If I leave it at 0.25 mm instead of 0.10mm, am I doing any damage?
__________________
J A Y on a 98 Suzuki DR650SE (sanDRina)

Trip Website: JamminGlobal.com
Current Ride Report: Global South | Past Trips: CDR '09, Alaska '08, Mexico '07 | YouTube Videos
Jammin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2013, 02:22 AM   #76170
Mongle
Knuckle dragger
 
Mongle's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,704
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Just realized that when I did my valve check in Cape Town, before putting the bike in a crate for her sea voyage to India, I messed up with the feeler gauges. Instead of using the 0.10 mm (middle of tolerance) for the intake valves, I used the 0.010" = 0.25 mm gauge. Bike starts up easily and runs well, did a 60 mile ride so far but valves sound loud.

I would just go back and redo the valve check but in Cape Town the crankshaft cap got stripped. I got it to TDC by spinning the rear wheel in gear.

I'm just about to set off on a tour around India on Tuesday. How critical is it to redo the valve clearance or can I leave it as it is? Intake valves tighten up over time, right? If I leave it at 0.25 mm instead of 0.10mm, am I doing any damage?
it will be noisy and a little down on power. By having more clearance the valve is not opening as much. I have never done it on a bike but if we put too big of a cam in a boat motor we have put more clearance on the rockers with no issues. I can't imagine a bike being any different. Really if you think about it the exhaust are set at .2mm and there is no problems. They usually run less on the intake just because it doesn't get as hot and expand as much.

I always use my rear wheel to find TDC- I worry about breaking that dang cap. Makes it a little easier if someone spins the wheel so you can watch valves and TDC marks.

Good luck!
Mongle is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014