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Old 04-27-2013, 08:49 PM   #76186
Ren20
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I took the time and did a comparison on the IMS and Acerbis gas tanks. Hopefully these can be good resource for those who are looking to buy bigger tanks. So I am keeping the acerbis tank for larger size, I like its look better as well.

I used the supplied manual petcock from acerbis. How do I block the vacuum hose?

IMS and Acerbis side by side.






on the bike.



Ren20 screwed with this post 04-27-2013 at 10:16 PM
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:16 PM   #76187
ER70S-2
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Ren20:
Good series of pics.

The petcock screws into the plastic Acerbis tank with sheet metal screws. There are four in the photo, I bought two longer ones because I used the stock petcock and its flange is a bit thicker. Does the IMS have threaded metal inserts or does it also use screws into the plastic?


Crash alot:
I admire you not jumping up-n-down and pointing fingers. There's just too much of that going on in society today. However, you got lied to by either the first or second owner.

This will be a bigger problem if you're setting up a supermoto. I run a DOT knobby on the front so steering isn't quite as precise as SM tires would need.

If the wheels are aligned and you can get past this, the DR is awesome. I hit 45,512 miles today.
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:28 PM   #76188
Ren20
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The IMS tank has brass insert.

I didn't know I can fit the stock petcock. I do think the stock petcock has better built quality. I will just run the Acerbis petcock until it fails ( hopefully long time from now). However, I will buy an extra o ring just in case.

can anyone post picture of how you route the inline fuel filter? The one i got is pretty big. Where do I find those tiny ones?
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:21 PM   #76189
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
The IMS tank has brass inserts.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
I didn't know I can fit the stock petcock. I do think the stock petcock has better built quality. I will just run the Acerbis petcock until it fails (hopefully long time from now). However, I will buy an extra o ring just in case.
I used the stock petcock because there is no way I'll ever remember to shut it off every time I park the bike for the night.
With my high mileage (on the bike too ), I don't trust the needle and seat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
can anyone post picture of how you route the inline fuel filter? The one i got is pretty big. Where do I find those tiny ones?
There are some ideas here, including my use of the stock petcock on an Acerbis 5.3. I have no idea what the IMS petcock mounting surface looks like.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635647

g'nite
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:22 PM   #76190
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash alot View Post


be careful checking the rest of the frame for damage. this photo looks like youve got some more damage just forward of the engine mounting. the disturbed paint is a good sign that there has been some movement there. if it were me id be checking the frame as best you can for straightness in every possible dimension you can think of starting with whats already been suggested here. if you happy with the handling and get the bars straightened up (its pretty common for DRs to have bars out of alignment, even after a light drop on the trail) id be marking out all the points on the frame that have the paint either cracked or "bubbled" like in this photo and getting a professional welder to cut those areas out and do a good job welding in some new sections of pipework. you should be able to get that mangled section of spine cut out completely and a new section welded into place. then either paint over the new parts or get the whole thing powdercoated again. or just buy a new frame if its cheaper.

one thing i wouldnt do is leave those areas of disturbed paint the way they are. they are a pretty good indicator of there being some microcracks hiding underneath that, given time and vibration, can develop into fractures. if you do decide to leave them then make sure that you start a serious weight training program so that youre strong enough to keep both halves of the bike together if the front and rear wheels do decide to part company
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:19 AM   #76191
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Crash alot: that looks absolutely horrible! I can't imagine such a huge bend on the top tube not implying that other parts of the frame were bent (and eventually straightened) as well. I would definitely check the entire frame for other bends, especially the down tube running from the steering head to the underside of the engine (Eventually even take the top engine mount plates out - the triangular brackets that attach the cylinder head cover to the frame - to see if the engine was not re-mounted under tension. )

Personally I would contact the seller and try to get my money back. If that is not possible I think I would dismantle the bike and sell the good parts (frame goes to trash) & of course get another DR. Knowing you have a badly injured frame may take away the whole pleasure of riding after all.

If you want to check for straightness one important thing is for the steering head to lie in a plane that is normal to the swingarm pivot. Set the bike perfectly straight on a stand (you may need to remove the swingarm, I cant't remember if it's pivot axle is hollow or not), use wood wedges under the frame rails until the swingarm pivot axle is perfectly horisontal. At this point you need to check that that the fork tubes lie in a perfectly vertical plane.
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:53 AM   #76192
Jammin
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Eek Need help with valve clearance mess up

Just realized that when I did my valve check in Cape Town, before putting the bike in a crate for her sea voyage to India, I messed up with the feeler gauges. Instead of using the 0.10 mm (middle of tolerance) for the intake valves, I used the 0.010" = 0.25 mm gauge. Bike starts up easily and runs well, did a 60 mile ride so far but valves sound loud.

I would just go back and redo the valve check but in Cape Town the crankshaft cap got stripped. I got it to TDC by spinning the rear wheel in gear.

I'm just about to set off on a tour around India on Tuesday. How critical is it to redo the valve clearance or can I leave it as it is? Intake valves tighten up over time, right? If I leave it at 0.25 mm instead of 0.10mm, am I doing any damage?
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:22 AM   #76193
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Just realized that when I did my valve check in Cape Town, before putting the bike in a crate for her sea voyage to India, I messed up with the feeler gauges. Instead of using the 0.10 mm (middle of tolerance) for the intake valves, I used the 0.010" = 0.25 mm gauge. Bike starts up easily and runs well, did a 60 mile ride so far but valves sound loud.

I would just go back and redo the valve check but in Cape Town the crankshaft cap got stripped. I got it to TDC by spinning the rear wheel in gear.

I'm just about to set off on a tour around India on Tuesday. How critical is it to redo the valve clearance or can I leave it as it is? Intake valves tighten up over time, right? If I leave it at 0.25 mm instead of 0.10mm, am I doing any damage?
it will be noisy and a little down on power. By having more clearance the valve is not opening as much. I have never done it on a bike but if we put too big of a cam in a boat motor we have put more clearance on the rockers with no issues. I can't imagine a bike being any different. Really if you think about it the exhaust are set at .2mm and there is no problems. They usually run less on the intake just because it doesn't get as hot and expand as much.

I always use my rear wheel to find TDC- I worry about breaking that dang cap. Makes it a little easier if someone spins the wheel so you can watch valves and TDC marks.

Good luck!
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:18 AM   #76194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash alot View Post
I guess I should have pulled the tank off before I bought this....but who does that. im just too trusting, no one to blame but me. I could post the dudes name and address who I bought it from, but he was the second owner. however, he wont return my text message.
I think a poll here would reveal that NOBODY pulls the tank prior to purchase. You're not too trusting and it's not your fault. I don't know how your state works but if your title ID's the bike as SALVAGE then maybe more questions should've been asked....?

The fact the seller won't return your texts speaks volumes.

Start haunting this seller until you get your money back and talk with LEO's and DMV investigators. They may blow you off but do some research. Google the seller's number and check CL. I recently had a friend buy a junked car that had some jacked up documents. It took me about 15 minutes to find the guy & the fact he sold 8 other vehicles that month. We, uh, convinced him to give the money back.

I'd park myself in your sellers life until you liked the result. PM me their info if ya want.
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:46 AM   #76195
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
I think a poll here would reveal that NOBODY pulls the tank prior to purchase. You're not too trusting and it's not your fault. I don't know how your state works but if your title ID's the bike as SALVAGE then maybe more questions should've been asked....?

The fact the seller won't return your texts speaks volumes.

Start haunting this seller until you get your money back and talk with LEO's and DMV investigators. They may blow you off but do some research. Google the seller's number and check CL. I recently had a friend buy a junked car that had some jacked up documents. It took me about 15 minutes to find the guy & the fact he sold 8 other vehicles that month. We, uh, convinced him to give the money back.

I'd park myself in your sellers life until you liked the result. PM me their info if ya want.
Ditto that. The seller is a crook. If it was the first owner who ripped off the one you bought it from, then they're both crooks. Nobody should deal with this by selling it on to some other unsuspecting buyer.

I'd call the police and the DMV.
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:26 AM   #76196
acap650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Thanks


I used the stock petcock because there is no way I'll ever remember to shut it off every time I park the bike for the night.
With my high mileage (on the bike too ), I don't trust the needle and seat.
There are some ideas here, including my use of the stock petcock on an Acerbis 5.3. I have no idea what the IMS petcock mounting surface looks like.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635647

g'nite
Can't remember what the petcock surface looked like on my IMS but I do recall filing since I had to oval the fuel hole. No leaks so far, and the IMS has brass threaded inserts.

One issue you did not mention is interference where the stock petcock hits engine fins. With the IMS + stock petcock I had to cut out a notch in the top 2 fins - did it twice since the tank changed shape over time.

Another issue is the front turn signals hitting the tank at full lock - mine hits on the right side but only slightly so I left it alone. Happy with the IMS but it is a homely lump.
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:36 AM   #76197
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Ditto that. The seller is a crook. If it was the first owner who ripped off the one you bought it from, then they're both crooks. Nobody should deal with this by selling it on to some other unsuspecting buyer.

I'd call the police and the DMV.
Nothing would come of it, they'll simply see it as a civil matter. Small claims court would be the best route to go.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:27 AM   #76198
dentedvw
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Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
What exactly does it say on side of the muffler?

If it is a Suzuki muffler it will have the part number and the usual disclaimer.
On the end cap it might say Titanium, certain ones do.
If it is a stock Suzuki muffler from another bike, it does NOT need repacking, ever.
It WILL use a gasket between the mid-pipe and muffler, inside the bolted flange.

If it is not a Suzuki muffler then it probably does require repacking and it may always be too loud.
Can you post pictures of the muffler, the front flange connection to the mid-pipe, and the muffler hanger tab?
If it is not a genuine Suzuki muffler that will help us figure out what it is.

The mid-pipe also has a gasket between it and the headpipe, could that be leaking?
On the exhaust can it reads: SUZUKI 40F0, then e4 under that. Most of the evidence (black junk) points to leaking out the connection from the can to the pipe. So, I pulled it apart, and there is a fair gap there, no gasket at all. Is there supposed to be one at the can? Can I make one from some goop from NAPA? Cut one down from something else?
It's enormously loud, something I was hoping not to deal with on another bike, it's one of the reasons I stopped riding my DRZ on the freeway, it's got a Yoshi exhaust. Deafening.

At least I didn't find a bashed up frame.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:44 AM   #76199
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw View Post
On the exhaust can it reads: SUZUKI 40F0, then e4 under that. Most of the evidence (black junk) points to leaking out the connection from the can to the pipe. So, I pulled it apart, and there is a fair gap there, no gasket at all. Is there supposed to be one at the can? Can I make one from some goop from NAPA? Cut one down from something else?
It's enormously loud, something I was hoping not to deal with on another bike, it's one of the reasons I stopped riding my DRZ on the freeway, it's got a Yoshi exhaust. Deafening.

At least I didn't find a bashed up frame.
The 40F0 is the OEM muffler from the 01-02 GSXR1000, the best option to fit on a DR650 IMO. You are supposed to have a gasket between the midpipe and the muffler, and the midpipe is supposed to protrude about half an inch inside the muffler (the midpipe should not end at the flange level) - check this thread for some photos of how the midpipe should look like.

This is definitely not loud (but not quiet either) on a DR650. I suppose yours is so loud because of the escaping gases at the joint...
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:11 AM   #76200
thump!
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Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Nothing would come of it, they'll simply see it as a civil matter. Small claims court would be the best route to go.
Exactly. However, you'll have to document the extent of your damages or loss even there. This kind of thing happens all the time with private sales of used vehicles. The seller will likely claim he was not aware of the problem, hence no criminal intent, and the judge will likely order a cash settlement to the injured buyer. The question is how much is it worth.
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