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Old 05-08-2013, 03:30 PM   #76441
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
...
So, I am totally lost here? Should there be 8.7" of travel, as measured between the top of the tire and the fender (front & rear)?
I'm sorry, I made an assumption that your bike was on the ground. There will be the weight of the bike that will use some of the travel, and there will be stiction (the amount of friction that keeps the suspension from moving fully through the range of travel). So, your bike, off of a stand will never show the full amount of travel just sitting there, and even on a stand probably won't. It'll always be slightly compressed, and more depending on whether the bike is on the ground or in the air and the amount of stiction.
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:53 PM   #76442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
While I am tearing the bike apart. I have found other leaky gaskets.
What is this little rubber square gasket called? it has wires coming out of it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brewbike/8717795661/
That's your NSU wiring.
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:42 PM   #76443
bobzilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Is there an upgrade piece available for the stock 2-piece rear preload adjusters? They suck adjusting just whacking the carp outta them to move them. I've seen better solutions on other shocks.

Thnx, Bill
Try turning the spring with your hands with the bike off the ground..... worked for me for years on many different bikes. you may also use a preload spanner or a strap wrench
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:45 PM   #76444
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
How much total rear travel are we now all using as a baseline? and this how much race sag should i be looking to see? still 25% of total travel?

Per Cogent & my redone shock, I do believe I have the correct spring rate for my weight so after I set my race sag correctly, my static sag should be spot on.
With a stiffer spring you will get a better ride with LESS preload. Not sure on amount of travel. I would try backing off pre load and doing test rides using the same track or route.

If you can't get a better result ... Go to a softer spring or modify compression settings. Might help.
The DR650 is a tough customer. We need to have it work well on pavement AND off road. The requirements and ideal setting for both ... don't really compliment each other ... so ... compromise!

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Is there an upgrade piece available for the stock 2-piece rear preload adjusters? They suck adjusting just whacking the carp outta them to move them. I've seen better solutions on other shocks.
Thnx, Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Try turning the spring with your hands with the bike off the ground..... worked for me for years on many different bikes. you may also use a preload spanner or a strap wrench
Yes, grabbing it firmly by hand (wear gloves) and turning spring can work.
Or ... if you can get hold of a Spring Compressor (cool little tool) ... and compress spring slightly, then preload rings can be easily wound up or down.

When going by hand ... Clean and lube with WD40 first ... and you may bust a knuckle or two!
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:46 PM   #76445
rpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Is there an upgrade piece available for the stock 2-piece rear preload adjusters?
Thnx, Bill
Cogent's "bling ring". now available from PC too, I believe.

I have one on my Cogent re-engineered rear shock and it's more than just "bling"... it's a nice piece of kit, easier to adjust and lighter.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:25 PM   #76446
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
No, 10.2" is the amount of suspension travel in stock form. 8.7" is the amount of travel after the suspension has been lowered (per the Shop Manual). So, I'm wondering how I got to 6.5" as measured from the tire to the front fender mounting bolts. It would seem I'm 'missing' 2" of travel.

Sorry, I thought you were measuring it while it sat on the ground- which would make sense. 10.2- 2 (lowered)= 8.2 total travel.
8.2- 1.7 (sag)= 6.5 as it sat on the ground/sidestand.

yeh, if you are getting 6.5 while FULLY EXTENDED you have something else going on.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:32 PM   #76447
r_bin
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Greetings from Pensacola!

I bought a very clean, low mileage, 98 DR650 a couple of months ago. It was going to be a "bike between new bike" until I my BMW sold. But I don't think so anymore. Each day I find that this is maybe one of the most useful/fun bikes I've ever had, and I have had more than a few. So, I'm going to keep this for a good while instead.

I ordered the Seat Concepts kit and had it installed by someone that knows what to do. Suzuki getting us back for WWII is my theory on the OEM seat. Very funny. My first 250 mile ride was pita... the SC seat is all you guys say. My butt thanks you for the recommendation.

Replaced the the PO's Anakees with K270s for more 50/50 exploring (the 270's work well with the plentiful sugar sand that's overly common around here).

I've been soaking in your collective wisdom and thank all of you guys for the great information.

Here's a photo from this weekend. It got muddy later.

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Old 05-08-2013, 06:41 PM   #76448
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r_bin View Post
Greetings from Pensacola!

I bought a very clean, low mileage, 98 DR650 a couple of months ago. It was going to be a "bike between new bike" until I my BMW sold. But I don't think so anymore. Each day I find that this is maybe one of the most useful/fun bikes I've ever had, and I have had more than a few. So, I'm going to keep this for a good while instead.

I ordered the Seat Concepts kit and had it installed by someone that knows what to do. Suzuki getting us back for WWII is my theory on the OEM seat. Very funny. My first 250 mile ride was pita... the SC seat is all you guys say. My butt thanks you for the recommendation.

Replaced the the PO's Anakees with K270s for more 50/50 exploring (the 270's work well with the plentiful sugar sand that's overly common around here).

I've been soaking in your collective wisdom and thank all of you guys for the great information.
Welcome!

You're gonna have a blast with that DR. Check out the AMS Sand Snake for a cheap front tire that works well offroad in FL. Be careful in paved turns with a front knob though.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:52 PM   #76449
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I'm sorry, I made an assumption that your bike was on the ground. There will be the weight of the bike that will use some of the travel, and there will be stiction (the amount of friction that keeps the suspension from moving fully through the range of travel). So, your bike, off of a stand will never show the full amount of travel just sitting there, and even on a stand probably won't. It'll always be slightly compressed, and more depending on whether the bike is on the ground or in the air and the amount of stiction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Sorry, I thought you were measuring it while it sat on the ground- which would make sense. 10.2- 2 (lowered)= 8.2 total travel.
8.2- 1.7 (sag)= 6.5 as it sat on the ground/sidestand.

yeh, if you are getting 6.5 while FULLY EXTENDED you have something else going on.
I am measuring while the bike is on the ground. I didn't realize that the 10.2" and 8.7" measurements were with the bike on a stand (suspension totally unloaded). So, I'm guessing that 6.5" measurement is ok. My fault for not realizing the context in which those measurements were given. Thanks for setting me straight.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:54 PM   #76450
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Cogent's "bling ring". now available from PC too, I believe.

I have one on my Cogent re-engineered rear shock and it's more than just "bling"... it's a nice piece of kit, easier to adjust and lighter.
there ya go. thanks.
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#suspension
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:55 PM   #76451
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Try turning the spring with your hands with the bike off the ground..... worked for me for years on many different bikes. you may also use a preload spanner or a strap wrench
thanks. i'll try that.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:56 PM   #76452
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i'm going to give that a try and see how things change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
With a stiffer spring you will get a better ride with LESS preload. Not sure on amount of travel. I would try backing off pre load and doing test rides using the same track or route.

If you can't get a better result ... Go to a softer spring or modify compression settings. Might help.
The DR650 is a tough customer. We need to have it work well on pavement AND off road. The requirements and ideal setting for both ... don't really compliment each other ... so ... compromise!





Yes, grabbing it firmly by hand (wear gloves) and turning spring can work.
Or ... if you can get hold of a Spring Compressor (cool little tool) ... and compress spring slightly, then preload rings can be easily wound up or down.

When going by hand ... Clean and lube with WD40 first ... and you may bust a knuckle or two!
__________________
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Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:20 PM   #76453
acesandeights
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Location: So. Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I am measuring while the bike is on the ground. I didn't realize that the 10.2" and 8.7" measurements were with the bike on a stand (suspension totally unloaded). So, I'm guessing that 6.5" measurement is ok. My fault for not realizing the context in which those measurements were given. Thanks for setting me straight.
Travel would be the full range of the suspension. When it sits on the ground the weight of the bike takes up some of that range, or the weight of the bike is already using some of the stroke if that makes sense. You'll notice you can lift up on the front or rear (at least some) when it's on the kickstand

That's what people are referring to when they discuss sag, the difference between full range and how it sits with its own weight or the weight of the rider.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:37 PM   #76454
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r_bin View Post
Greetings from Pensacola!
I bought a very clean, low mileage, 98 DR650 a couple of months ago.
First off - welcome - and you're right. The bike surprised me too and it's my go to for rides.

Check this before you continue - courtesy of Keintech Engineering
DR650 update on the 650 grenade issue. 1998 and early '99 were equipped with a solid idler gear that created a problem when the engine kicked back during shutdown, breaking out the gear bearing bosses. This also breaks out and destroys the left case half due to its ridged design. The case halves always come in matched pairs and cost in excess of $650.00 not to mention labor charges to change all internal parts into new cases. This should not be taken lightly. '96 and '97 had the torque limiter gear that is designed to slip due to a preloaded slip clutch arrangement. Well they went back to this design in mid '99 after vin # X2100561 so if your Vin # predates this you should consider installing this updated item shown

http://www.kientech.com/DR650TorqueLimiter.html
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:59 PM   #76455
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
You could always go with one of these, from Pro Cycle:



That would eliminate the cable (and its adjuster) entirely.
The thing in this picture will not work properly on a BST40 as it's missing a metering rod.

Regards,

Derek

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