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Old 05-08-2013, 08:23 PM   #76441
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Sorry, can't quote specific posts siting specific problems, just have a memory of various posts about Barnett and EBC clutch kit issues. Not even sure what the problems were beyond a lever pull that wears you out.
In my experience Barnett clutch springs can be a bit on the heavy side, which will of course cause a heavy lever pull, but can also cause the clutch to drag, as some of what would otherwise be travel at the clutch gets used up by the cable housing compressing and the cable stretching a touch. On clutches with even-numbered springs, you can alternate Barnett springs with stock, which should solve the problem. On clutches with odd-numbered springs, you can install some shims inside the springs under the outer spring seats in order to reduce the preload a bit.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:47 PM   #76442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
(I won't repeat the myth)
What is the allegory, simile or metaphor contained in this myth?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:26 PM   #76443
french horn
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Re: Suspension upgrade

Thanks heaps "think tank", the info provided has surely enlightened me and assured me that I can atleast improve my situation somewhat, at little cost. In time, I will certainly go ahead with the more technicle (costly) improvements in persuite of a more cumfy, safe ride.
Thanks again guys ... priceless!

cheers
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:28 PM   #76444
r_bin
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Thanks, that has been done.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
First off - welcome - and you're right. The bike surprised me too and it's my go to for rides.

Check this before you continue - courtesy of Keintech Engineering
DR650 update on the 650 grenade issue. 1998 and early '99 were equipped with a solid idler gear that created a problem when the engine kicked back during shutdown, breaking out the gear bearing bosses. This also breaks out and destroys the left case half due to its ridged design. The case halves always come in matched pairs and cost in excess of $650.00 not to mention labor charges to change all internal parts into new cases. This should not be taken lightly. '96 and '97 had the torque limiter gear that is designed to slip due to a preloaded slip clutch arrangement. Well they went back to this design in mid '99 after vin # X2100561 so if your Vin # predates this you should consider installing this updated item shown

http://www.kientech.com/DR650TorqueLimiter.html
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Seemed like a good idea at the time.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:20 PM   #76445
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
About the rider/static sag: it's been said the initial DR shock linkage has a high mechanical advantage and will allow more rider sag than one might expect. I'm only repeating internet info that I've seen more than once, true or not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
That was always assumed but doesn't turn out to be the case. The DR has a relatively flat linkage ratio.

You might find this interesting
--> http://drriders.com/topic8180.html
I measured the actual shock travel and calculated the linkage leverage ratios.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Care to comment on the initial sag feeling so soft? Are other bikes similar? (I won't repeat the myth)
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
What is the allegory, simile or metaphor contained in this myth?

Regards,

Derek
I hope this answers your question.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:39 PM   #76446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I hope this answers your question.
Is it possible that the question needs clarification?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:39 AM   #76447
blackcap
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While we are talking about clutches, I just changed mine out to the Barnett one today. Laid the bike down on the left side, undid everything, installed the new plates and springs, everything slotted in just fine and bolted back up ok. I plugged the breather to keep fuel from pouring out of it while she was laying down (safari tank with small one way valve that has always seemed pretty tow way). Some fuel leaked out of the carburetor (from the float bowl overflow I think, if that is even a thing) but nothing worth worrying about. Stood the bike back up and let sit for 30 minutes or so before starting her up to let the oil go back to where it should be. But when I tried to start, everything turned ok but no ignition. With the choke on or off there was nothing. Given some throttle there was a little single fire every now and then but nothing self-sustaining. Turned the fuel taps off and drained the carb float bowl completely incase there was too much fuel in there for things to work properly but no luck, same result as before. Battery needs a charge, which will have to wait for tomorrow, but now I was hoping to get a small list of things together that I can check tomorrow morning while the battery is charging.

My thought are leaning towards the possibility of the tank pressurizing slightly while the vent was blocked and the extra pressure on the fuel sticking the float bowl needle in place? Otherwise im at a bit of a loss. Anyone else got some suggestions on where to look for problems?
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:52 AM   #76448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
While we are talking about clutches, I just changed mine out to the Barnett one today. Laid the bike down on the left side, undid everything, installed the new plates and springs, everything slotted in just fine and bolted back up ok. I plugged the breather to keep fuel from pouring out of it while she was laying down (safari tank with small one way valve that has always seemed pretty tow way). Some fuel leaked out of the carburetor (from the float bowl overflow I think, if that is even a thing) but nothing worth worrying about. Stood the bike back up and let sit for 30 minutes or so before starting her up to let the oil go back to where it should be. But when I tried to start, everything turned ok but no ignition. With the choke on or off there was nothing. Given some throttle there was a little single fire every now and then but nothing self-sustaining. Turned the fuel taps off and drained the carb float bowl completely incase there was too much fuel in there for things to work properly but no luck, same result as before. Battery needs a charge, which will have to wait for tomorrow, but now I was hoping to get a small list of things together that I can check tomorrow morning while the battery is charging.

My thought are leaning towards the possibility of the tank pressurizing slightly while the vent was blocked and the extra pressure on the fuel sticking the float bowl needle in place? Otherwise im at a bit of a loss. Anyone else got some suggestions on where to look for problems?
Could some have found its way up to the plugs? I'd pull them and cleans them.
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:51 AM   #76449
barko1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Could some have found its way up to the plugs? I'd pull them and cleans them.
Gas in airbox?
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:27 AM   #76450
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Gas in airbox?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Could some have found its way up to the plugs? I'd pull them and cleans them.
both good ideas and easy to do. keep em comin. the more checks i have the more likely i am to find something
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Australia to Iceland on a DR650 http://oztoice.wordpress.com
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:41 AM   #76451
deathu
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Guys,

Can anyone help me with a picture showing the correct fuel level on a DR650 BST40 carb, as measured with a clear tube connected to the float bowl's drain hole?
I got my float level adjusted correctly, but the fuel level seems too high at about 4mm above the float bowl's gasket surface, with the bike held in an upright position.
I've read that the fuel level measured with this method should be at 1.5mm above the gasket surface, but the instruction did not specifically refer to a DR650 BST40 (although all BST40's are about the same... I'd like to have a confirmation from a DR650 owner with the stock carb).

I'm chasing the rich running issues I currently have... If the float/needle valve assembly is defective this could be THE explanation. But this assembly is kind of expensive, I'd spend the money on a new one only if another DR650 owner can confirm the correct fuel level on a carb that is in a proper functioning order.
I know it's kind of PITA to measure, there is no nipple on the drain hole to attach the tube, one must keep the tube with one hand while undoing the drain screw with the other hand and measuring the level/taking the picture with the third hand but I'd really appreciate if someone could help me.
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:02 AM   #76452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Guys,

Can anyone help me with a picture showing the correct fuel level on a DR650 BST40 carb, as measured with a clear tube connected to the float bowl's drain hole?
I got my float level adjusted correctly, but the fuel level seems too high at about 4mm above the float bowl's gasket surface, with the bike held in an upright position.
I've read that the fuel level measured with this method should be at 1.5mm above the gasket surface, but the instruction did not specifically refer to a DR650 BST40 (although all BST40's are about the same... I'd like to have a confirmation from a DR650 owner with the stock carb).

I'm chasing the rich running issues I currently have... If the float/needle valve assembly is defective this could be THE explanation. But this assembly is kind of expensive, I'd spend the money on a new one only if another DR650 owner can confirm the correct fuel level on a carb that is in a proper functioning order.
I know it's kind of PITA to measure, there is no nipple on the drain hole to attach the tube, one must keep the tube with one hand while undoing the drain screw with the other hand and measuring the level/taking the picture with the third hand but I'd really appreciate if someone could help me.
The o-ring beneath the float valve seat is not expensive and is IMHO the problem 90% of the time with float issues

http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/190797
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:17 AM   #76453
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
I've read that the fuel level measured with this method should be at 1.5mm above the gasket surface, but the instruction did not specifically refer to a DR650 BST40
1.5mm above the gasket surface is the correct OEM specification.
Quote:
I'm chasing the rich running issues I currently have...
The fuel level being 2.5mm higher than it should would cause the mixture to be richer toward the lower end of the rpm range at all openings.
Quote:
If the float/needle valve assembly is defective this could be THE explanation.
Does the idea that the assembly is defective come from setting the float height to 14.7mm and the resultant fuel level being other than 1.5mm above the gasket surface? How many miles are there on the carburetor?
Quote:
But this assembly is kind of expensive, I'd spend the money on a new one only if another DR650 owner can confirm the correct fuel level on a carb that is in a proper functioning order.
A new assembly should not be required unless one or both of the floats leak and have some fuel inside.
Quote:
I know it's kind of PITA to measure, there is no nipple on the drain hole to attach the tube, one must keep the tube with one hand while undoing the drain screw with the other hand and measuring the level/taking the picture with the third hand but I'd really appreciate if someone could help me.
There is an adapter that screws into the bowl in place of the drain screw that greatly simplifies the measuring process.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:19 AM   #76454
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The o-ring beneath the float valve seat is not expensive and is IMHO the problem 90% of the time with float issues
Correct, except that the symptom of a defective o-ring would be that the bowl overflows, rather than the fuel level stabilizing at a level that is too high.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:58 AM   #76455
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
both good ideas and easy to do. keep em comin. the more checks i have the more likely i am to find something
Both of those are good ideas. I'd just pull the plugs and let things sit. Do not clean a modern spark plug.

I never, ever do any work on my bike with the fuel tank ON. With the IMS it's off in less than 3 minutes. I set it aside and then have clear access to everything. YMMV.

Did you happen so soak your new clutch plates in oil before installation?
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