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Old 05-08-2013, 12:55 PM   #76441
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Fork Springs question: I weigh 185 pounds.

For the cheap route - because I want to try it after having bought aftermarket fork springs for my last bike, then really thinking about it, their already shorter length, and why i jsut paid that much $ for a bike I wasn't going to race...

So how much should I cut off of the stock fork springs to give me and a usually unloaded bike the 'right' ride to avoid the brake dive and dives into corners? And if they're progressive, which end would you cut them from?
First, you need to figure out how much "space" there is in the spring. Measure the total length. Then find the diameter of the wire. Multiply the wire diameter times the number of coils. subtract that from the total length. This tells you how far the spring can travel without closing up completely. You don't want to have less space than travel. Ever. for stock DR forks, you need 10.2" of space in your spring. Increase that for any pre-load you add.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:06 PM   #76442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle
I think you answered your own question.
No, 10.2" is the amount of suspension travel in stock form. 8.7" is the amount of travel after the suspension has been lowered (per the Shop Manual). So, I'm wondering how I got to 6.5" as measured from the tire to the front fender mounting bolts. It would seem I'm 'missing' 2" of travel.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:10 PM   #76443
acesandeights
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Maybe I'm way off, but I didn't think that 10.2 was the amount of compression or distance from the tire to anything.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:16 PM   #76444
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Question Chain guide issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by inroads View Post
Anyone try one of these from Pro-Cycle? I am having the chain rub on it with the supplied hardware.
Hey Inroads,
Were you able to resolve the chain rub issue?
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:26 PM   #76445
eakins
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All this reason suspension travel talk is great.

I need to fine tune my rear race sag on my bike. I think my preload is too high.
How much total rear travel are we now all using as a baseline? and this how much race sag should i be looking to see? still 25% of total travel?

Per Cogent & my redone shock, I do believe I have the correct spring rate for my weight so after I set my race sag correctly, my static sag should be spot on.

Is there an upgrade piece available for the stock 2-piece rear preload adjusters? They suck adjusting just whacking the carp outta them to move them. I've seen better solutions on other shocks.

Thnx, Bill
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eakins screwed with this post 05-08-2013 at 01:31 PM
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:35 PM   #76446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights
Maybe I'm way off, but I didn't think that 10.2 was the amount of compression or distance from the tire to anything.
Maybe I got (very) confused but this is what I was reading and trying to decipher:
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie
I know rider sag should be about 3" since the DR has 9" of travel (rear). What should it be with the link set on the lower setting? Does the bike still have 9" of travel? I doubt it.
OK, if the question was asked before, I pre-apologize, but I couldn't find it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2
The travel changes from 10.2" to 8.7" front and rear.
At this point I'm thinking I need to measure my suspension travel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie
Front end is fine. I did Eibach Springs and Gold Valves last year. Just got the shock back from Cogent and wanted to set it up right. Got to thinking, I'm running the low setting so travel will be less.
oops There it is right in the Owners Manual, 8.7 " travel in the low setting. Regular is 10.2, not 9. I only go 170 lbs, but with rider sag set at just 2", I've got way too much static sag at 1 3/4." Should have gotten the next step up in a spring. Thanks everyone for advice. More?
So, I am totally lost here? Should there be 8.7" of travel, as measured between the top of the tire and the fender (front & rear)?
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:52 PM   #76447
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwroblin View Post
i had good luck using needle nose vise grips, the real vise grip brand ... heated with a heat gun, used blaster penetrating spray .... lots of it ... let it sit, heat and repeat ... they do crack a bit when they come loose, but they will come loose .... they throw them away and get stainless hex head bolts ... use some anti seize mixed with water proof grease, just a bit will do ...
Careful work with an IMPACT DRIVER is MUCH easier. Hold Carb gently in vise (using wood blocks). Piece of cake. (Use a JIS bit in your Impact driver)

I've done 3 BST Carbs this way. All good, done is less than 5 minutes.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:56 PM   #76448
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Name that tune

While I am tearing the bike apart. I have found other leaky gaskets.
What is this little rubber square gasket called? it has wires coming out of it.

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Old 05-08-2013, 02:30 PM   #76449
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
...
So, I am totally lost here? Should there be 8.7" of travel, as measured between the top of the tire and the fender (front & rear)?
I'm sorry, I made an assumption that your bike was on the ground. There will be the weight of the bike that will use some of the travel, and there will be stiction (the amount of friction that keeps the suspension from moving fully through the range of travel). So, your bike, off of a stand will never show the full amount of travel just sitting there, and even on a stand probably won't. It'll always be slightly compressed, and more depending on whether the bike is on the ground or in the air and the amount of stiction.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:53 PM   #76450
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
While I am tearing the bike apart. I have found other leaky gaskets.
What is this little rubber square gasket called? it has wires coming out of it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brewbike/8717795661/
That's your NSU wiring.
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:42 PM   #76451
bobzilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Is there an upgrade piece available for the stock 2-piece rear preload adjusters? They suck adjusting just whacking the carp outta them to move them. I've seen better solutions on other shocks.

Thnx, Bill
Try turning the spring with your hands with the bike off the ground..... worked for me for years on many different bikes. you may also use a preload spanner or a strap wrench
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:45 PM   #76452
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
How much total rear travel are we now all using as a baseline? and this how much race sag should i be looking to see? still 25% of total travel?

Per Cogent & my redone shock, I do believe I have the correct spring rate for my weight so after I set my race sag correctly, my static sag should be spot on.
With a stiffer spring you will get a better ride with LESS preload. Not sure on amount of travel. I would try backing off pre load and doing test rides using the same track or route.

If you can't get a better result ... Go to a softer spring or modify compression settings. Might help.
The DR650 is a tough customer. We need to have it work well on pavement AND off road. The requirements and ideal setting for both ... don't really compliment each other ... so ... compromise!

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Is there an upgrade piece available for the stock 2-piece rear preload adjusters? They suck adjusting just whacking the carp outta them to move them. I've seen better solutions on other shocks.
Thnx, Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Try turning the spring with your hands with the bike off the ground..... worked for me for years on many different bikes. you may also use a preload spanner or a strap wrench
Yes, grabbing it firmly by hand (wear gloves) and turning spring can work.
Or ... if you can get hold of a Spring Compressor (cool little tool) ... and compress spring slightly, then preload rings can be easily wound up or down.

When going by hand ... Clean and lube with WD40 first ... and you may bust a knuckle or two!
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:46 PM   #76453
rpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Is there an upgrade piece available for the stock 2-piece rear preload adjusters?
Thnx, Bill
Cogent's "bling ring". now available from PC too, I believe.

I have one on my Cogent re-engineered rear shock and it's more than just "bling"... it's a nice piece of kit, easier to adjust and lighter.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:25 PM   #76454
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
No, 10.2" is the amount of suspension travel in stock form. 8.7" is the amount of travel after the suspension has been lowered (per the Shop Manual). So, I'm wondering how I got to 6.5" as measured from the tire to the front fender mounting bolts. It would seem I'm 'missing' 2" of travel.

Sorry, I thought you were measuring it while it sat on the ground- which would make sense. 10.2- 2 (lowered)= 8.2 total travel.
8.2- 1.7 (sag)= 6.5 as it sat on the ground/sidestand.

yeh, if you are getting 6.5 while FULLY EXTENDED you have something else going on.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:32 PM   #76455
r_bin
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Greetings from Pensacola!

I bought a very clean, low mileage, 98 DR650 a couple of months ago. It was going to be a "bike between new bike" until I my BMW sold. But I don't think so anymore. Each day I find that this is maybe one of the most useful/fun bikes I've ever had, and I have had more than a few. So, I'm going to keep this for a good while instead.

I ordered the Seat Concepts kit and had it installed by someone that knows what to do. Suzuki getting us back for WWII is my theory on the OEM seat. Very funny. My first 250 mile ride was pita... the SC seat is all you guys say. My butt thanks you for the recommendation.

Replaced the the PO's Anakees with K270s for more 50/50 exploring (the 270's work well with the plentiful sugar sand that's overly common around here).

I've been soaking in your collective wisdom and thank all of you guys for the great information.

Here's a photo from this weekend. It got muddy later.

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