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Old 05-09-2013, 06:51 AM   #76456
barko1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Could some have found its way up to the plugs? I'd pull them and cleans them.
Gas in airbox?
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:27 AM   #76457
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Gas in airbox?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Could some have found its way up to the plugs? I'd pull them and cleans them.
both good ideas and easy to do. keep em comin. the more checks i have the more likely i am to find something
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:41 AM   #76458
deathu
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Guys,

Can anyone help me with a picture showing the correct fuel level on a DR650 BST40 carb, as measured with a clear tube connected to the float bowl's drain hole?
I got my float level adjusted correctly, but the fuel level seems too high at about 4mm above the float bowl's gasket surface, with the bike held in an upright position.
I've read that the fuel level measured with this method should be at 1.5mm above the gasket surface, but the instruction did not specifically refer to a DR650 BST40 (although all BST40's are about the same... I'd like to have a confirmation from a DR650 owner with the stock carb).

I'm chasing the rich running issues I currently have... If the float/needle valve assembly is defective this could be THE explanation. But this assembly is kind of expensive, I'd spend the money on a new one only if another DR650 owner can confirm the correct fuel level on a carb that is in a proper functioning order.
I know it's kind of PITA to measure, there is no nipple on the drain hole to attach the tube, one must keep the tube with one hand while undoing the drain screw with the other hand and measuring the level/taking the picture with the third hand but I'd really appreciate if someone could help me.
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:02 PM   #76459
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Guys,

Can anyone help me with a picture showing the correct fuel level on a DR650 BST40 carb, as measured with a clear tube connected to the float bowl's drain hole?
I got my float level adjusted correctly, but the fuel level seems too high at about 4mm above the float bowl's gasket surface, with the bike held in an upright position.
I've read that the fuel level measured with this method should be at 1.5mm above the gasket surface, but the instruction did not specifically refer to a DR650 BST40 (although all BST40's are about the same... I'd like to have a confirmation from a DR650 owner with the stock carb).

I'm chasing the rich running issues I currently have... If the float/needle valve assembly is defective this could be THE explanation. But this assembly is kind of expensive, I'd spend the money on a new one only if another DR650 owner can confirm the correct fuel level on a carb that is in a proper functioning order.
I know it's kind of PITA to measure, there is no nipple on the drain hole to attach the tube, one must keep the tube with one hand while undoing the drain screw with the other hand and measuring the level/taking the picture with the third hand but I'd really appreciate if someone could help me.
The o-ring beneath the float valve seat is not expensive and is IMHO the problem 90% of the time with float issues

http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/190797
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:17 PM   #76460
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
I've read that the fuel level measured with this method should be at 1.5mm above the gasket surface, but the instruction did not specifically refer to a DR650 BST40
1.5mm above the gasket surface is the correct OEM specification.
Quote:
I'm chasing the rich running issues I currently have...
The fuel level being 2.5mm higher than it should would cause the mixture to be richer toward the lower end of the rpm range at all openings.
Quote:
If the float/needle valve assembly is defective this could be THE explanation.
Does the idea that the assembly is defective come from setting the float height to 14.7mm and the resultant fuel level being other than 1.5mm above the gasket surface? How many miles are there on the carburetor?
Quote:
But this assembly is kind of expensive, I'd spend the money on a new one only if another DR650 owner can confirm the correct fuel level on a carb that is in a proper functioning order.
A new assembly should not be required unless one or both of the floats leak and have some fuel inside.
Quote:
I know it's kind of PITA to measure, there is no nipple on the drain hole to attach the tube, one must keep the tube with one hand while undoing the drain screw with the other hand and measuring the level/taking the picture with the third hand but I'd really appreciate if someone could help me.
There is an adapter that screws into the bowl in place of the drain screw that greatly simplifies the measuring process.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:19 PM   #76461
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The o-ring beneath the float valve seat is not expensive and is IMHO the problem 90% of the time with float issues
Correct, except that the symptom of a defective o-ring would be that the bowl overflows, rather than the fuel level stabilizing at a level that is too high.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:58 PM   #76462
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
both good ideas and easy to do. keep em comin. the more checks i have the more likely i am to find something
Both of those are good ideas. I'd just pull the plugs and let things sit. Do not clean a modern spark plug.

I never, ever do any work on my bike with the fuel tank ON. With the IMS it's off in less than 3 minutes. I set it aside and then have clear access to everything. YMMV.

Did you happen so soak your new clutch plates in oil before installation?
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:55 PM   #76463
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The o-ring beneath the float valve seat is not expensive and is IMHO the problem 90% of the time with float issues

http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/190797
Thanks for the suggestion, but I did already replace that oring. In fact I replaced ALL orings except for the one that sits under the slide guide, which nor suzuki or KTM seem to sell as a replacement part (or at least I couldn't find a part number for it).


Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Does the idea that the assembly is defective come from setting the float height to 14.7mm and the resultant fuel level being other than 1.5mm above the gasket surface?
First of all thank you Derek for the reply.
I would say yes. I didn't actually measure the float height the last time I adjusted it, but rather set the straight edges of the float lobes to be parallel with the gasket surface. AFAIK this corresponds to the correct float height of 14.7mm, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
How many miles are there on the carburetor?
I really don't know... could be anywhere between 30.000 and 100.000 I guess. Note that I replaced a lot of components during the last months/1000 miles, including: all orings apart from the one under the slide guide, slide, slide guide, emulsion tube, jet needle (6F19), pilot jet, pilot air jet, pilot fuel screw, cold start enrichement plunger and it's supporting nut, diaphragm, slide spring.

The tip of the float needle doesn't appear to be worn out but to be honest I did not inspect it under magnification. I was thinking that the float needle seat may also cause a leak, and the BST40 from the Suzuki DR650 doesn't come with a separate, replaceable seat as the KTM one if I understand correctly.





On another topic, I need urgent help with the following issue. During my latest 6-mile commute to work the bike was constantly dying during normal driving. It seems the bike cuts out the ignition when in gear, and the engine dies immediately. At this point it also won't crank unless it's in neutral. The problem was intermittent until I actually had to stop on the side of road, took the seat off and started checking the wires.
Apart from the sidestand safety switch, is there anything else that can cause this? I eventually managed to resume my commute and get to work after playing with the wires but I deffinitely need to recheck everything in the morning before heading back home (it's 11PM now). The sidestand safety switch was elliminated by one of the previous owners, now I have a little green connector with two wires soldered together. I need to know if there is anything else I need to re-check, any obvious sub-systems that can cause the described behavior.

deathu screwed with this post 05-09-2013 at 02:02 PM
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:13 PM   #76464
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
On another topic, I need urgent help with the following issue. During my latest 6-mile commute to work the bike was constantly dying during normal driving. It seems the bike cuts out the ignition when in gear, and the engine dies immediately. At this point it also won't crank unless it's in neutral. The problem was intermittent until I actually had to stop on the side of road, took the seat off and started checking the wires.
Apart from the sidestand safety switch, is there anything else that can cause this? I eventually managed to resume my commute and get to work after playing with the wires but I deffinitely need to recheck everything in the morning before heading back home (it's 11PM now). The sidestand safety switch was elliminated by one of the previous owners, now I have a little green connector with two wires soldered together. I need to know if there is anything else I need to re-check, any obvious sub-systems that can cause the described behavior.
Clutch safety switch. I would also check the wiring for the removed sidestand safety switch with a multi-meter. The solder may have cracked or something.
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Old 05-09-2013, 03:06 PM   #76465
8gv
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Could some have found its way up to the plugs? I'd pull them and cleans them.
Oil that is, black gold, Texas tea...
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Old 05-09-2013, 03:53 PM   #76466
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Oil that is, black gold, Texas tea...
I always thought ..... Texas "T" You coming to BBA next week?? on the DR?
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:38 PM   #76467
8gv
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I always thought ..... Texas "T" You coming to BBA next week?? on the DR?
Unable. I screwed up my back, for the first time ever, helping my son move. I have P.T. and a back cracker for a month. The good news is it doesn't hurt when I ride, sleep or...., only when I walk. Tipping over could leave me stranded for a while.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:46 PM   #76468
sunthechip
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Help

Stripped inspection screw

I was adjusting the valves today and when I put the plug back in the hole (the one where you check for the t-mark) and tightened it. I heard a snap, then the plug wouldn't tighten anymore - I just kept spinning as I was wrenching. I unscrewed it and now the threads are stripped on the inside of the hole. How do I fix it? I think I caused this back when I didn't have a torque-wrench. Should I drain the oil and pull the cover off to look for metal bits? Thanks
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:25 PM   #76469
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Stripped inspection screw

I was adjusting the valves today and when I put the plug back in the hole (the one where you check for the t-mark) and tightened it. I heard a snap, then the plug wouldn't tighten anymore - I just kept spinning as I was wrenching. I unscrewed it and now the threads are stripped on the inside of the hole. How do I fix it? I think I caused this back when I didn't have a torque-wrench. Should I drain the oil and pull the cover off to look for metal bits? Thanks
That's what I would do. I'm sure you can fashion an alternative plug but to do so requires the cover to be up on the workbench to avoid crankcase contamination.
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:30 PM   #76470
sunthechip
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
That's what I would do. I'm sure you can fashion an alternative plug but to do so requires the cover to be up on the workbench to avoid crankcase contamination.
What do you mean by fashion an alternative plug?

it was the valve timing inspection plug
btw the plug threads are still good. The ones inside the hole are stripped

sunthechip screwed with this post 05-09-2013 at 05:35 PM
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