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Old 05-09-2013, 12:58 PM   #76471
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
both good ideas and easy to do. keep em comin. the more checks i have the more likely i am to find something
Both of those are good ideas. I'd just pull the plugs and let things sit. Do not clean a modern spark plug.

I never, ever do any work on my bike with the fuel tank ON. With the IMS it's off in less than 3 minutes. I set it aside and then have clear access to everything. YMMV.

Did you happen so soak your new clutch plates in oil before installation?
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:55 PM   #76472
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The o-ring beneath the float valve seat is not expensive and is IMHO the problem 90% of the time with float issues

http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/190797
Thanks for the suggestion, but I did already replace that oring. In fact I replaced ALL orings except for the one that sits under the slide guide, which nor suzuki or KTM seem to sell as a replacement part (or at least I couldn't find a part number for it).


Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Does the idea that the assembly is defective come from setting the float height to 14.7mm and the resultant fuel level being other than 1.5mm above the gasket surface?
First of all thank you Derek for the reply.
I would say yes. I didn't actually measure the float height the last time I adjusted it, but rather set the straight edges of the float lobes to be parallel with the gasket surface. AFAIK this corresponds to the correct float height of 14.7mm, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
How many miles are there on the carburetor?
I really don't know... could be anywhere between 30.000 and 100.000 I guess. Note that I replaced a lot of components during the last months/1000 miles, including: all orings apart from the one under the slide guide, slide, slide guide, emulsion tube, jet needle (6F19), pilot jet, pilot air jet, pilot fuel screw, cold start enrichement plunger and it's supporting nut, diaphragm, slide spring.

The tip of the float needle doesn't appear to be worn out but to be honest I did not inspect it under magnification. I was thinking that the float needle seat may also cause a leak, and the BST40 from the Suzuki DR650 doesn't come with a separate, replaceable seat as the KTM one if I understand correctly.





On another topic, I need urgent help with the following issue. During my latest 6-mile commute to work the bike was constantly dying during normal driving. It seems the bike cuts out the ignition when in gear, and the engine dies immediately. At this point it also won't crank unless it's in neutral. The problem was intermittent until I actually had to stop on the side of road, took the seat off and started checking the wires.
Apart from the sidestand safety switch, is there anything else that can cause this? I eventually managed to resume my commute and get to work after playing with the wires but I deffinitely need to recheck everything in the morning before heading back home (it's 11PM now). The sidestand safety switch was elliminated by one of the previous owners, now I have a little green connector with two wires soldered together. I need to know if there is anything else I need to re-check, any obvious sub-systems that can cause the described behavior.

deathu screwed with this post 05-09-2013 at 02:02 PM
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:13 PM   #76473
Kommando
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Originally Posted by deathu View Post
On another topic, I need urgent help with the following issue. During my latest 6-mile commute to work the bike was constantly dying during normal driving. It seems the bike cuts out the ignition when in gear, and the engine dies immediately. At this point it also won't crank unless it's in neutral. The problem was intermittent until I actually had to stop on the side of road, took the seat off and started checking the wires.
Apart from the sidestand safety switch, is there anything else that can cause this? I eventually managed to resume my commute and get to work after playing with the wires but I deffinitely need to recheck everything in the morning before heading back home (it's 11PM now). The sidestand safety switch was elliminated by one of the previous owners, now I have a little green connector with two wires soldered together. I need to know if there is anything else I need to re-check, any obvious sub-systems that can cause the described behavior.
Clutch safety switch. I would also check the wiring for the removed sidestand safety switch with a multi-meter. The solder may have cracked or something.
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Old 05-09-2013, 03:06 PM   #76474
8gv
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Could some have found its way up to the plugs? I'd pull them and cleans them.
Oil that is, black gold, Texas tea...
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Old 05-09-2013, 03:53 PM   #76475
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Oil that is, black gold, Texas tea...
I always thought ..... Texas "T" You coming to BBA next week?? on the DR?
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:38 PM   #76476
8gv
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I always thought ..... Texas "T" You coming to BBA next week?? on the DR?
Unable. I screwed up my back, for the first time ever, helping my son move. I have P.T. and a back cracker for a month. The good news is it doesn't hurt when I ride, sleep or...., only when I walk. Tipping over could leave me stranded for a while.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:46 PM   #76477
sunthechip
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Help

Stripped inspection screw

I was adjusting the valves today and when I put the plug back in the hole (the one where you check for the t-mark) and tightened it. I heard a snap, then the plug wouldn't tighten anymore - I just kept spinning as I was wrenching. I unscrewed it and now the threads are stripped on the inside of the hole. How do I fix it? I think I caused this back when I didn't have a torque-wrench. Should I drain the oil and pull the cover off to look for metal bits? Thanks
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:25 PM   #76478
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Stripped inspection screw

I was adjusting the valves today and when I put the plug back in the hole (the one where you check for the t-mark) and tightened it. I heard a snap, then the plug wouldn't tighten anymore - I just kept spinning as I was wrenching. I unscrewed it and now the threads are stripped on the inside of the hole. How do I fix it? I think I caused this back when I didn't have a torque-wrench. Should I drain the oil and pull the cover off to look for metal bits? Thanks
That's what I would do. I'm sure you can fashion an alternative plug but to do so requires the cover to be up on the workbench to avoid crankcase contamination.
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:30 PM   #76479
sunthechip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
That's what I would do. I'm sure you can fashion an alternative plug but to do so requires the cover to be up on the workbench to avoid crankcase contamination.
What do you mean by fashion an alternative plug?

it was the valve timing inspection plug
btw the plug threads are still good. The ones inside the hole are stripped

sunthechip screwed with this post 05-09-2013 at 05:35 PM
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:44 PM   #76480
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
What do you mean by fashion an alternative plug?

it was the valve timing inspection plug
btw the plug threads are still good. The ones inside the hole are stripped
Probably enlarge the hole, and cut a new, larger (next metric size) thread and use a bigger plug? Definitely unmount the cover if you do this, it will generate a lot of filings.
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:16 PM   #76481
sunthechip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Probably enlarge the hole, and cut a new, larger (next metric size) thread and use a bigger plug? Definitely unmount the cover if you do this, it will generate a lot of filings.
Any idea where I can get a bigger plug? Do you mean drill out the damaged threads till its smooth and use a tap to make new threads?
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:18 PM   #76482
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Correct, except that the symptom of a defective o-ring would be that the bowl overflows, rather than the fuel level stabilizing at a level that is too high.

Regards,

Derek
On two DRs I'be seen the o-ring seal "intermittently" resulting constant variation of float bowl fuel level. They didn't leak enough to overflow the bowl but they leaked enough to cause some very strange behavior.
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:25 PM   #76483
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Stripped inspection screw

I was adjusting the valves today and when I put the plug back in the hole (the one where you check for the t-mark) and tightened it. I heard a snap, then the plug wouldn't tighten anymore - I just kept spinning as I was wrenching. I unscrewed it and now the threads are stripped on the inside of the hole. How do I fix it? I think I caused this back when I didn't have a torque-wrench. Should I drain the oil and pull the cover off to look for metal bits? Thanks
Helicoil. Remove the cover. If you don't have the skills to install a Helicoil or another brand of thread insert yourself take it to a machine shop.
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:35 PM   #76484
sunthechip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Helicoil. Remove the cover. If you don't have the skills to install a Helicoil or another brand of thread insert yourself take it to a machine shop.
thank you! I don't have the skills or tools, so this is what I will do. Beats buying a new stator cover and gasket :)
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:46 PM   #76485
andruboz
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In all the posts of fiddling with the Dr, I haven't seen anything about ignition timing. Is it just that good from the factory, or is it virtually unadjustable. I thought most cars/bikes were sold with the ignition on the retarded side to run on cheap gas without pinging .
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