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Old 05-10-2013, 09:48 AM   #76486
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
On two DRs I'be seen the o-ring seal "intermittently" resulting constant variation of float bowl fuel level. They didn't leak enough to overflow the bowl but they leaked enough to cause some very strange behavior.
By what mechanism would the o-ring stop leaking when a certain fuel level is reached?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:49 AM   #76487
Jenn
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*le sigh*

OK, on the plus side - at least this didn't happen until *after* I saw Joan Jett, Cafe Tacuba and the Violent Femmes at Bottlerock (at a costly music festival with $69 ticket fee). And, at least someone was paying attention as I pulled up to the red light and DUMPED OUT ALL MY OIL!!!

Dammit. I thought I was going to go get something to eat at 9:30pm, but apparently I was rolling my motorcycle to the nearby driveway of the passerby who spotted the spill where I was provisioned and charged my iPhone and got a friend to pick me up in Napa and bring me back to Oakland.

Verdict: countershaft seal

Question: where to buy one locally in the Bay Area or dimensions for a suitable replacement (if I wanted to go to, say, Bearing Engineering in Alameda, what are the dimensions)

I'm searching and looking, I swear!
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:56 AM   #76488
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn View Post
Verdict: countershaft seal

Question: where to buy one locally in the Bay Area or dimensions for a suitable replacement (if I wanted to go to, say, Bearing Engineering in Alameda, what are the dimensions)

I'm searching and looking, I swear!

I cant help you with where to buy a new seal locally but I strongly suggest you get a seal retainer from Procycle to keep the new seal in place.


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Old 05-10-2013, 10:08 AM   #76489
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
we have a winner! checked it this morning and there was fresh fuel on the ground under the bike. pulled the drain plug and a whole heap more cam flowing out. battery had a good charge and after clearing her throat a little the old girl fired right up. thanks for the lesson on that one.
Check the oil level and remove the oil fill cap and sniff for gas in the oil.

What was your solution to the leaking carb secondary filter (maybe a month ago)?
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:08 AM   #76490
Jenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Steve View Post
I cant help you with where to buy a new seal locally but I strongly suggest you get a seal retainer from Procycle to keep the new seal in place.
That wasn't my question - thanks for trying to be helpful, though. :)

I found dimensions, at least - 25 x 44 x 7 and p/n 09283-25096
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:12 AM   #76491
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Thanks for the suggestion, but I did already replace that oring. In fact I replaced ALL orings except for the one that sits under the slide guide, which nor suzuki or KTM seem to sell as a replacement part (or at least I couldn't find a part number for it).
I have them in stock.
Quote:
I didn't actually measure the float height the last time I adjusted it, but rather set the straight edges of the float lobes to be parallel with the gasket surface. AFAIK this corresponds to the correct float height of 14.7mm, please correct me if I'm wrong.
It should be pretty close, but remember that it must be checked with the cage held home against the body and the float's tang resting on the needle's spring-loaded plunger but not depressing it.
Quote:
I really don't know... could be anywhere between 30.000 and 100.000 I guess. Note that I replaced a lot of components during the last months/1000 miles, including: all orings apart from the one under the slide guide, slide, slide guide, emulsion tube, jet needle (6F19), pilot jet, pilot air jet, pilot fuel screw, cold start enrichement plunger and it's supporting nut, diaphragm, slide spring.
That all sounds great, but I'd replace the slide guide o-ring as a matter of course.
Quote:
The tip of the float needle doesn't appear to be worn out but to be honest I did not inspect it under magnification.
With as many miles as you say the carb has on it, and considering the fuel level has been measured as too high, I would replace the float needle (or at least have closer look at it). The problem may not just be with the tip (the plunger spring could also be sacked out).
Quote:
I was thinking that the float needle seat may also cause a leak,
Not likely. Besides being dirty, not much can go wrong with it. The symptom of a dirty float seal is typically an overflowing problem rather than a high fuel level.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:25 AM   #76492
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andruboz View Post
In all the posts of fiddling with the Dr, I haven't seen anything about ignition timing. Is it just that good from the factory, or is it virtually unadjustable. I thought most cars/bikes were sold with the ignition on the retarded side to run on cheap gas without pinging .
Generally, that's true, except that there have been a number of reports of pinging problems (right here in this thread). You could slot the pickup's mounts and change the timing that way, but this would result in a wholesale change (rather than just at the rpm the problem exists at), which is not likely to be desirable. The solution would be to install a programmable ignition. You could even use a TPS (the '03 and up KTM 640LC4 BST40 has a TPS and could easily be retrofitted to a DR650), which would then allow 3d mapping.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 05-10-2013 at 10:52 AM
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:45 AM   #76493
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by considermichael View Post
Thing is it was outside for two years with the rain snow sun etc.
Being parked outside for two years will require a carb cleaning, replacement of the pilot jet, and probably replacement of all rubber carb parts, including the float needle (see http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038).
Quote:
16'000 Miles
With 16K miles, I would inspect the slide guide, slide, emulsion tube, and jet needle. Have a look at:

Slide guide, used
Slide guide, new
Slide, used
Slide, new
Slides, new and used, end view
Emulsion tubes, new and used
Jet needles, new and used

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:21 AM   #76494
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
from now on ill be turning the fuel taps off at the very least, the safari is a little more than 3 minutes work to get back on so i prefer to leave it in place but definitely something worth noting in the future. i did give the plates a dip in oil before installing but not a soaking. whats the danger of not applying any oil? i would imagine the oil circuit would coat them all pretty quickly anyway.
Congrats on finding the problem!

If clutch plates are not soaked in oil before install they can HEAT UP and glaze. Since they are in ... hmmmm ... I guess start her up but only run her a few minutes, operate clutch lever, let oil work its way around. Then shut her off, let her sit for a half hour, repeat. That should do it, but I would still be careful not to abuse clutch for first 100 miles or so.

I'll let the experts chime in on this one if there is a better method to deal with it. Good luck!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 05-10-2013 at 11:34 AM
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:32 AM   #76495
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn View Post
That wasn't my question - thanks for trying to be helpful, though. :) I found dimensions, at least - 25 x 44 x 7 and p/n 09283-25096
Jenn,
Have you tried PUSHING the seal back into place? It should go in there.
Call Pro Cycle and have them overnight the retainer. It's a good thing. Your old seal is most probably just fine ... just needs a bit of help staying in place.
The retainer will do it.

Keep an EYE ON YOUR OIL LEVEL ... do not over fill and only use 10/40 oil, nothing heavier. Should be A - OK.

If you need a new seal (which I doubt) there is a small company in Hammahatu, Japan, called Suzuki. They make ALL the parts for your bike. They have 2000 dealers in the USA ... at least three or four in the Bay area? Use a random, unknown seal in there at your peril.

PS: BottleRock. My buddy paid over $100 each for tickets. I think you got a deal! How many showed up?
I'm nearby if you need DR help.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:37 AM   #76496
29andSingle
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Picked up a second set of wheels so I wouldn't have to swap tires all the time. Are OEM brake rotors the only way to go or are there other recommendations?
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:36 PM   #76497
Jenn
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Thanks for your offer - I might take you up on that!

I haven't tried pushing the seal back in place - and here's an interesting question.

Just now, I went out to look at it and put my hand on the front sprocket - there's some play there - I can wiggle it toward me and push back toward the bike.

How snugly should that thing be bolted down?

Is it possible that the motorcycle shop where my friend had it serviced (he borrowed it for the Death Valley trip a couple weeks ago) did not tighten the front sprocket enough when they put my 15t back on and that contributed to the leak?

Also - it had cooled down a bit last night but was only about 60-65 degrees, and I revved the engine when I started it up (choke was on) - but still... I don't remember the front sprocket wiggling at ALL the last time I changed it with Harry.

The oil was completely changed out along with the filter before my friend borrowed it off to Death Valley and the local shop put in 20w50 - I will be using 10w40 forward - is it ok to top off or do I have to dump out and totally replace the current oil in there now?

I found that Bearing Agency in SF on 277 7th has a gasket - it's $10 - the problem is that a) I no longer have motorized transportation; b) so far, places I called say that it has to be specially ordered.

RE: Bottlerock - use promo code FRIENDS to get the discount for one-day pass from $99 to $69

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Jenn,
Have you tried PUSHING the seal back into place? It should go in there.
Call Pro Cycle and have them overnight the retainer. It's a good thing. Your old seal is most probably just fine ... just needs a bit of help staying in place.
The retainer will do it.

Keep an EYE ON YOUR OIL LEVEL ... do not over fill and only use 10/40 oil, nothing heavier. Should be A - OK.

If you need a new seal (which I doubt) there is a small company in Hammahatu, Japan, called Suzuki. They make ALL the parts for your bike. They have 2000 dealers in the USA ... at least three or four in the Bay area? Use a random, unknown seal in there at your peril.

PS: BottleRock. My buddy paid over $100 each for tickets. I think you got a deal! How many showed up?
I'm nearby if you need DR help.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:37 PM   #76498
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Jenn,
Have you tried PUSHING the seal back into place? It should go in there.
Call Pro Cycle and have them overnight the retainer. It's a good thing. Your old seal is most probably just fine ... just needs a bit of help staying in place.
The retainer will do it.

Keep an EYE ON YOUR OIL LEVEL ... do not over fill and only use 10/40 oil, nothing heavier. Should be A - OK.

If you need a new seal (which I doubt) there is a small company in Hammahatu, Japan, called Suzuki. They make ALL the parts for your bike. They have 2000 dealers in the USA ... at least three or four in the Bay area? Use a random, unknown seal in there at your peril.

PS: BottleRock. My buddy paid over $100 each for tickets. I think you got a deal! How many showed up?
I'm nearby if you need DR help.
Gee, that's about what Lil' Steve said and it got shot down.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:39 PM   #76499
sunthechip
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I left the magneto cover at the machine shop - the mechanic said that he could fix the stripped TDC hole with a locking thread insert, thank God, but he can't get to it until Monday.

Should I use some saran wrap as a makeshift magneto cover, and should I store the gears in the drained motor oil? Any other precautions that I should take while the internals are exposed?

Thanks
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:20 PM   #76500
regg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Well it turns out I could not replicate the problem any longer this morning, the bike just ran without issue no matter how i played with the wires. I guess it must have been the green connector itself (that was intended for the sidestand switch), as I did un-plug and re-plug it. the wires and solder seem ok..
The clutch switch if I understand correctly can definitely prevent me from starting the engine while in gear, but I guess it won't kill an already running engine if it fails.

Gonna spray some contact cleaner in all the connectors today... and hope to not have any further nasty surprises

This happened to me last spring. It turns out that I didn't have the negative terminal on the battery tight enough. I turned that screw 1/16th of a turn and that's all it took. I hope it's something as simple as this for you.
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