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Old 05-10-2013, 10:12 AM   #76516
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Thanks for the suggestion, but I did already replace that oring. In fact I replaced ALL orings except for the one that sits under the slide guide, which nor suzuki or KTM seem to sell as a replacement part (or at least I couldn't find a part number for it).
I have them in stock.
Quote:
I didn't actually measure the float height the last time I adjusted it, but rather set the straight edges of the float lobes to be parallel with the gasket surface. AFAIK this corresponds to the correct float height of 14.7mm, please correct me if I'm wrong.
It should be pretty close, but remember that it must be checked with the cage held home against the body and the float's tang resting on the needle's spring-loaded plunger but not depressing it.
Quote:
I really don't know... could be anywhere between 30.000 and 100.000 I guess. Note that I replaced a lot of components during the last months/1000 miles, including: all orings apart from the one under the slide guide, slide, slide guide, emulsion tube, jet needle (6F19), pilot jet, pilot air jet, pilot fuel screw, cold start enrichement plunger and it's supporting nut, diaphragm, slide spring.
That all sounds great, but I'd replace the slide guide o-ring as a matter of course.
Quote:
The tip of the float needle doesn't appear to be worn out but to be honest I did not inspect it under magnification.
With as many miles as you say the carb has on it, and considering the fuel level has been measured as too high, I would replace the float needle (or at least have closer look at it). The problem may not just be with the tip (the plunger spring could also be sacked out).
Quote:
I was thinking that the float needle seat may also cause a leak,
Not likely. Besides being dirty, not much can go wrong with it. The symptom of a dirty float seal is typically an overflowing problem rather than a high fuel level.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:25 AM   #76517
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andruboz View Post
In all the posts of fiddling with the Dr, I haven't seen anything about ignition timing. Is it just that good from the factory, or is it virtually unadjustable. I thought most cars/bikes were sold with the ignition on the retarded side to run on cheap gas without pinging .
Generally, that's true, except that there have been a number of reports of pinging problems (right here in this thread). You could slot the pickup's mounts and change the timing that way, but this would result in a wholesale change (rather than just at the rpm the problem exists at), which is not likely to be desirable. The solution would be to install a programmable ignition. You could even use a TPS (the '03 and up KTM 640LC4 BST40 has a TPS and could easily be retrofitted to a DR650), which would then allow 3d mapping.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 05-10-2013 at 10:52 AM
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:45 AM   #76518
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by considermichael View Post
Thing is it was outside for two years with the rain snow sun etc.
Being parked outside for two years will require a carb cleaning, replacement of the pilot jet, and probably replacement of all rubber carb parts, including the float needle (see http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038).
Quote:
16'000 Miles
With 16K miles, I would inspect the slide guide, slide, emulsion tube, and jet needle. Have a look at:

Slide guide, used
Slide guide, new
Slide, used
Slide, new
Slides, new and used, end view
Emulsion tubes, new and used
Jet needles, new and used

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:21 AM   #76519
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
from now on ill be turning the fuel taps off at the very least, the safari is a little more than 3 minutes work to get back on so i prefer to leave it in place but definitely something worth noting in the future. i did give the plates a dip in oil before installing but not a soaking. whats the danger of not applying any oil? i would imagine the oil circuit would coat them all pretty quickly anyway.
Congrats on finding the problem!

If clutch plates are not soaked in oil before install they can HEAT UP and glaze. Since they are in ... hmmmm ... I guess start her up but only run her a few minutes, operate clutch lever, let oil work its way around. Then shut her off, let her sit for a half hour, repeat. That should do it, but I would still be careful not to abuse clutch for first 100 miles or so.

I'll let the experts chime in on this one if there is a better method to deal with it. Good luck!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 05-10-2013 at 11:34 AM
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:32 AM   #76520
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn View Post
That wasn't my question - thanks for trying to be helpful, though. :) I found dimensions, at least - 25 x 44 x 7 and p/n 09283-25096
Jenn,
Have you tried PUSHING the seal back into place? It should go in there.
Call Pro Cycle and have them overnight the retainer. It's a good thing. Your old seal is most probably just fine ... just needs a bit of help staying in place.
The retainer will do it.

Keep an EYE ON YOUR OIL LEVEL ... do not over fill and only use 10/40 oil, nothing heavier. Should be A - OK.

If you need a new seal (which I doubt) there is a small company in Hammahatu, Japan, called Suzuki. They make ALL the parts for your bike. They have 2000 dealers in the USA ... at least three or four in the Bay area? Use a random, unknown seal in there at your peril.

PS: BottleRock. My buddy paid over $100 each for tickets. I think you got a deal! How many showed up?
I'm nearby if you need DR help.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:37 AM   #76521
29andSingle
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Picked up a second set of wheels so I wouldn't have to swap tires all the time. Are OEM brake rotors the only way to go or are there other recommendations?
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:36 PM   #76522
Jenn
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Thanks for your offer - I might take you up on that!

I haven't tried pushing the seal back in place - and here's an interesting question.

Just now, I went out to look at it and put my hand on the front sprocket - there's some play there - I can wiggle it toward me and push back toward the bike.

How snugly should that thing be bolted down?

Is it possible that the motorcycle shop where my friend had it serviced (he borrowed it for the Death Valley trip a couple weeks ago) did not tighten the front sprocket enough when they put my 15t back on and that contributed to the leak?

Also - it had cooled down a bit last night but was only about 60-65 degrees, and I revved the engine when I started it up (choke was on) - but still... I don't remember the front sprocket wiggling at ALL the last time I changed it with Harry.

The oil was completely changed out along with the filter before my friend borrowed it off to Death Valley and the local shop put in 20w50 - I will be using 10w40 forward - is it ok to top off or do I have to dump out and totally replace the current oil in there now?

I found that Bearing Agency in SF on 277 7th has a gasket - it's $10 - the problem is that a) I no longer have motorized transportation; b) so far, places I called say that it has to be specially ordered.

RE: Bottlerock - use promo code FRIENDS to get the discount for one-day pass from $99 to $69

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Jenn,
Have you tried PUSHING the seal back into place? It should go in there.
Call Pro Cycle and have them overnight the retainer. It's a good thing. Your old seal is most probably just fine ... just needs a bit of help staying in place.
The retainer will do it.

Keep an EYE ON YOUR OIL LEVEL ... do not over fill and only use 10/40 oil, nothing heavier. Should be A - OK.

If you need a new seal (which I doubt) there is a small company in Hammahatu, Japan, called Suzuki. They make ALL the parts for your bike. They have 2000 dealers in the USA ... at least three or four in the Bay area? Use a random, unknown seal in there at your peril.

PS: BottleRock. My buddy paid over $100 each for tickets. I think you got a deal! How many showed up?
I'm nearby if you need DR help.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:37 PM   #76523
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Jenn,
Have you tried PUSHING the seal back into place? It should go in there.
Call Pro Cycle and have them overnight the retainer. It's a good thing. Your old seal is most probably just fine ... just needs a bit of help staying in place.
The retainer will do it.

Keep an EYE ON YOUR OIL LEVEL ... do not over fill and only use 10/40 oil, nothing heavier. Should be A - OK.

If you need a new seal (which I doubt) there is a small company in Hammahatu, Japan, called Suzuki. They make ALL the parts for your bike. They have 2000 dealers in the USA ... at least three or four in the Bay area? Use a random, unknown seal in there at your peril.

PS: BottleRock. My buddy paid over $100 each for tickets. I think you got a deal! How many showed up?
I'm nearby if you need DR help.
Gee, that's about what Lil' Steve said and it got shot down.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:39 PM   #76524
sunthechip
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I left the magneto cover at the machine shop - the mechanic said that he could fix the stripped TDC hole with a locking thread insert, thank God, but he can't get to it until Monday.

Should I use some saran wrap as a makeshift magneto cover, and should I store the gears in the drained motor oil? Any other precautions that I should take while the internals are exposed?

Thanks
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:20 PM   #76525
regg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Well it turns out I could not replicate the problem any longer this morning, the bike just ran without issue no matter how i played with the wires. I guess it must have been the green connector itself (that was intended for the sidestand switch), as I did un-plug and re-plug it. the wires and solder seem ok..
The clutch switch if I understand correctly can definitely prevent me from starting the engine while in gear, but I guess it won't kill an already running engine if it fails.

Gonna spray some contact cleaner in all the connectors today... and hope to not have any further nasty surprises

This happened to me last spring. It turns out that I didn't have the negative terminal on the battery tight enough. I turned that screw 1/16th of a turn and that's all it took. I hope it's something as simple as this for you.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:22 PM   #76526
Jenn
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Oddometer: 621
If you are in the Bay Area, I recommend Dennis Etcheverri at Norman racing - he fixed two magneto covers while I waited, $20 each and made it look as easy as buttering toast.

That said - I have an extra - I got the magneto protector from Procycle - it's awesome

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
I left the magneto cover at the machine shop - the mechanic said that he could fix the stripped TDC hole with a locking thread insert, thank God, but he can't get to it until Monday.

Should I use some saran wrap as a makeshift magneto cover, and should I store the gears in the drained motor oil? Any other precautions that I should take while the internals are exposed?

Thanks
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:05 PM   #76527
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn View Post
Thanks for your offer - I might take you up on that!

I haven't tried pushing the seal back in place - and here's an interesting question.

Just now, I went out to look at it and put my hand on the front sprocket - there's some play there - I can wiggle it toward me and push back toward the bike.

How snugly should that thing be bolted down?

Is it possible that the motorcycle shop where my friend had it serviced (he borrowed it for the Death Valley trip a couple weeks ago) did not tighten the front sprocket enough when they put my 15t back on and that contributed to the leak?

Also - it had cooled down a bit last night but was only about 60-65 degrees, and I revved the engine when I started it up (choke was on) - but still... I don't remember the front sprocket wiggling at ALL the last time I changed it with Harry.

The oil was completely changed out along with the filter before my friend borrowed it off to Death Valley and the local shop put in 20w50 - I will be using 10w40 forward - is it ok to top off or do I have to dump out and totally replace the current oil in there now?

I found that Bearing Agency in SF on 277 7th has a gasket - it's $10 - the problem is that a) I no longer have motorized transportation; b) so far, places I called say that it has to be specially ordered.

RE: Bottlerock - use promo code FRIENDS to get the discount for one-day pass from $99 to $69
No worries Jenn ... the wiggly sprocket is normal. There is play there.
You could leave the 20/50 ... just ride gently until HOT.

Another good shop for the DR650 is Werkstatt (in San Fran) Owner Jennifer does a good job and knows the DR pretty well. Just for future reference.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:10 PM   #76528
rpet
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So, my bike is now going really low RPM and stalling out at nearly every stop sign. It was doing this infrequently and now seems to be doing it every stop. It has no problem idling while stationary; it hums along nicely at 1500 +/- (measured by Vapor computer). Choke not needed to start the bike (first poke of the button every time). It doesn't die randomly, surge or otherwise bog or act weird while actually riding. It's not down on power. It's just when the clutch gets pulled in for the final deceleration to a stop (I don't like downshifting to first).

Stock carb, fuel screw out 1.5 turns, snorkel removed. No additional airbox holes, TwinAir air filter.Remote cable choke. Quick twist R1 throttle tube.
Bike was used off and on during the winter, and has fresh 92 octane and a bit of Sea Foam in there.
Under 500mi on new correct spark plugs.

An 09 with 6600 mi. I bought it with 6100 miles. Zero mods were done by previous owner.

HALP!
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'76 Xl250 '04 XR250R '09 DR650 '10 TR450
Ride The West - OBDR, CDR & western TAT - July 2013
Instagram with plenty of bike pics.
Read my homie's underway Africa trip RR - Round Africa with a Surboard
WTB: Clarke tank for DR650 for cheap - any color but blue.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:30 PM   #76529
sunthechip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
So, my bike is now going really low RPM and stalling out at nearly every stop sign. It was doing this infrequently and now seems to be doing it every stop. It has no problem idling while stationary; it hums along nicely at 1500 +/- (measured by Vapor computer). Choke not needed to start the bike (first poke of the button every time). It doesn't die randomly, surge or otherwise bog or act weird while actually riding. It's not down on power. It's just when the clutch gets pulled in for the final deceleration to a stop (I don't like downshifting to first).

Stock carb, fuel screw out 1.5 turns, snorkel removed. No additional airbox holes, TwinAir air filter.Remote cable choke. Quick twist R1 throttle tube.
Bike was used off and on during the winter, and has fresh 92 octane and a bit of Sea Foam in there.
Under 500mi on new correct spark plugs.

An 09 with 6600 mi. I bought it with 6100 miles. Zero mods were done by previous owner.

HALP!
maybe your valve clearance is out of spec?
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:40 PM   #76530
rpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
maybe your valve clearance is out of spec?
Thanks - as a matter of fact I checked valves for the first time 2 days ago, and all the thin feelers went in smoothly, and the thicker ones did not... so I think I'm good.
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'76 Xl250 '04 XR250R '09 DR650 '10 TR450
Ride The West - OBDR, CDR & western TAT - July 2013
Instagram with plenty of bike pics.
Read my homie's underway Africa trip RR - Round Africa with a Surboard
WTB: Clarke tank for DR650 for cheap - any color but blue.
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