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Old 05-12-2013, 09:16 AM   #76531
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gzr View Post
I'm replacing the head gasket and I'm unsure whether the very thick "copper" (or similar) washers under the head bolts can be reused or not. I could simply put steel washers, but I'm not sure whether there's a special reason for the original washers to be copper. What do you guys normally do?

Also are the bolts themselves reusable?
Anneal the washers by heating with a propane torch to glowing red and allowing to cool down slowly. Reuse the bolts.
It's a motorcycle not the space shuttle.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:21 AM   #76532
Mambo Dave
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What ft./lb do the DR650 head bolts get torqued to?

I know my Ford F-150's head bolts are torque-to-yeild, and are supposedly non-reusable, but some guys say you can use them a second time - but no more than twice.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:45 AM   #76533
EBMOTT
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Question rear shock

Is anybody out. There running on a ricor shock. If so what do you think of it?
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:26 AM   #76534
bumpathump
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Maynard -

> Anneal the washers by heating with a propane torch to glowing red and
> allowing to cool down slowly. Reuse the bolts.

Copper is annealed by plunging into cold water after heating.

Rick
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:41 AM   #76535
Carl Childers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpathump View Post
Maynard -

> Anneal the washers by heating with a propane torch to glowing red and
> allowing to cool down slowly. Reuse the bolts.

Copper is annealed by plunging into cold water after heating.

Rick
Might be terminology in this case? For re use of copper washers and even the old Triumph 650 head gaskets we used to heat them up in an oven and then take them out to cool on their own. Never had a leak doing it that way.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:36 PM   #76536
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpathump View Post
Maynard -

> Anneal the washers by heating with a propane torch to glowing red and
> allowing to cool down slowly. Reuse the bolts.

Copper is annealed by plunging into cold water after heating.

Rick
Rick,
I think Maynard is correct. IIRC, Annealing requires slow cooling. Plunging into water HARDENS the metal. (I'm going back to memories from High School metal shop here ... so I defer to any experts here )

I've used this technique on Copper Drain Plug washers for about 30 years ... never a leak and never stripped one either.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:10 PM   #76537
gzr
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Tech question: Head bolt washers

Thanks for reassuring me that I can reuse these.

As far as I know copper doesn't really care about the cooling rate when you anneal it. Ferrous metals (and some aluminium alloys that can be solution treated) are another story and that's probably what some people were thinking of....

@ MamboDave, the bolts take 27.5ft-lb and the nuts take 18 ft-lb. That's little enough that I doubt they will yield (even though they are machined "narrow" along their length and the thread has a fine pitch)

The service manual does not mention anything about replacing unless I'm missing it completely.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:40 PM   #76538
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
What ft./lb do the DR650 head bolts get torqued to?

I know my Ford F-150's head bolts are torque-to-yeild, and are supposedly non-reusable, but some guys say you can use them a second time - but no more than twice.
Be aware that the manual is wrong with the locations of the different length head bolts. Set the head in place and drop the bolts in, making sure all of them are standing the same distance up.

If you're just retorquing this won't matter.

Example of the wrong fastener location:
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:42 PM   #76539
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Rick,
I think Maynard is correct. IIRC, Annealing requires slow cooling. Plunging into water HARDENS the metal. (I'm going back to memories from High School metal shop here ... so I defer to any experts here )

I've used this technique on Copper Drain Plug washers for about 30 years ... never a leak and never stripped one either.
Copper is annealed by heating it to a dull red heat. It doesn't matter if you let it cool slowly or quench it in water the result will be the same - soft copper.

Steel is totally different and will harden if quenched from red heat but can be annealed by heating up to a specified temperature (usually not hot enough to glow red) and letting it cool slowly.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:44 PM   #76540
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Example of the wrong fastener location:
Do you have a photo of every single DR650 component?
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:50 PM   #76541
ER70S-2
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Do you have a photo of every single DR650 component?


Not yet.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-12-2013 at 02:11 PM Reason: better answer
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:09 PM   #76542
Graniteone
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Well after finally getting this new to me 2007 2200 miles DR set up to my liking, I am starting to really dig it. New Eibach .47 springs in front, Gold Valve Emulators, new Cogent rear, new bars, grips, seat, TKC 80's, lowered foot pegs, fork brace, seal reatainer, case saver and added a 5.3 Acerbis Tank.

Exhaust and carb are up next. Not sure which exhaust however....? Does anyone use a steering damper with their DR?

Rode 150 miles today on and off road. The bike is handling great. I need to load her up and see how she handles with all my camp gear.

Graniteone screwed with this post 05-12-2013 at 06:23 PM
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:23 PM   #76543
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graniteone View Post
Well after finally getting this new to me 2007 2200 miles DR set up to my liking, I am starting to really dig it. New Eibach .47 springs in front, Gold Valve Emulators, new Cogent rear, new bars, grips, seat, TKC 80's, lowered foot pegs and added a 5.3 Acerbis Tank.

Exhaust and carb are up next. Not sure which exhaust however....? Does anyone use a steering damper with their DR?

Rode 150 miles today on and off road. The bike is handling great. I need to load her up and see how she handles with all my camp gear.
Try a GSX-R muff if you appreciate quiet and not having to repack while racking up mileage. DG makes some loud inexpensive muffs that need repacking, but they flow better and are pretty durable. I currently run a stock muff for quiet, longevity, and $$. You may want a bit more flow at altitude.

The stock carb can be improved significantly with a kit from Procycle. For the mountains, I'd lean towards opening up the airbox instead of leaving it stock. You may want to just rejet and then remove the airbox door, to test before cutting the airbox.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:25 PM   #76544
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graniteone View Post
Well after finally getting this new to me 2007 2200 miles DR set up to my liking, I am starting to really dig it. New Eibach .47 springs in front, Gold Valve Emulators, new Cogent rear, new bars, grips, seat, TKC 80's, lowered foot pegs, fork brace, seal reatainer, case saver and added a 5.3 Acerbis Tank.

Exhaust and carb are up next. Not sure which exhaust however....? Does anyone use a steering damper with their DR?

Rode 150 miles today on and off road. The bike is handling great. I need to load her up and see how she handles with all my camp gear.
What weight are you for the springs?
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X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
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." --
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:42 PM   #76545
NC Rick
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Any of you fine DR riders headed to the ADV rally in TN " Rick's rendezvous"?

I'll be there with my old dr and I hope it's not going to be the only one. I just installed the Cogent DDC fork valves that are the cogent solution similar (but better) to the emulators/intiminators.

Hoping to get onto a couple rides as well as have a beer or two with some dr folks.
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