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Old 05-12-2013, 12:10 PM   #76561
gzr
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Tech question: Head bolt washers

Thanks for reassuring me that I can reuse these.

As far as I know copper doesn't really care about the cooling rate when you anneal it. Ferrous metals (and some aluminium alloys that can be solution treated) are another story and that's probably what some people were thinking of....

@ MamboDave, the bolts take 27.5ft-lb and the nuts take 18 ft-lb. That's little enough that I doubt they will yield (even though they are machined "narrow" along their length and the thread has a fine pitch)

The service manual does not mention anything about replacing unless I'm missing it completely.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:40 PM   #76562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
What ft./lb do the DR650 head bolts get torqued to?

I know my Ford F-150's head bolts are torque-to-yeild, and are supposedly non-reusable, but some guys say you can use them a second time - but no more than twice.
Be aware that the manual is wrong with the locations of the different length head bolts. Set the head in place and drop the bolts in, making sure all of them are standing the same distance up.

If you're just retorquing this won't matter.

Example of the wrong fastener location:
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:42 PM   #76563
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Rick,
I think Maynard is correct. IIRC, Annealing requires slow cooling. Plunging into water HARDENS the metal. (I'm going back to memories from High School metal shop here ... so I defer to any experts here )

I've used this technique on Copper Drain Plug washers for about 30 years ... never a leak and never stripped one either.
Copper is annealed by heating it to a dull red heat. It doesn't matter if you let it cool slowly or quench it in water the result will be the same - soft copper.

Steel is totally different and will harden if quenched from red heat but can be annealed by heating up to a specified temperature (usually not hot enough to glow red) and letting it cool slowly.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:44 PM   #76564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Example of the wrong fastener location:
Do you have a photo of every single DR650 component?
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:50 PM   #76565
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Do you have a photo of every single DR650 component?


Not yet.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-12-2013 at 01:11 PM Reason: better answer
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:09 PM   #76566
Graniteone
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Well after finally getting this new to me 2007 2200 miles DR set up to my liking, I am starting to really dig it. New Eibach .47 springs in front, Gold Valve Emulators, new Cogent rear, new bars, grips, seat, TKC 80's, lowered foot pegs, fork brace, seal reatainer, case saver and added a 5.3 Acerbis Tank.

Exhaust and carb are up next. Not sure which exhaust however....? Does anyone use a steering damper with their DR?

Rode 150 miles today on and off road. The bike is handling great. I need to load her up and see how she handles with all my camp gear.

Graniteone screwed with this post 05-12-2013 at 05:23 PM
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:23 PM   #76567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graniteone View Post
Well after finally getting this new to me 2007 2200 miles DR set up to my liking, I am starting to really dig it. New Eibach .47 springs in front, Gold Valve Emulators, new Cogent rear, new bars, grips, seat, TKC 80's, lowered foot pegs and added a 5.3 Acerbis Tank.

Exhaust and carb are up next. Not sure which exhaust however....? Does anyone use a steering damper with their DR?

Rode 150 miles today on and off road. The bike is handling great. I need to load her up and see how she handles with all my camp gear.
Try a GSX-R muff if you appreciate quiet and not having to repack while racking up mileage. DG makes some loud inexpensive muffs that need repacking, but they flow better and are pretty durable. I currently run a stock muff for quiet, longevity, and $$. You may want a bit more flow at altitude.

The stock carb can be improved significantly with a kit from Procycle. For the mountains, I'd lean towards opening up the airbox instead of leaving it stock. You may want to just rejet and then remove the airbox door, to test before cutting the airbox.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:25 PM   #76568
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graniteone View Post
Well after finally getting this new to me 2007 2200 miles DR set up to my liking, I am starting to really dig it. New Eibach .47 springs in front, Gold Valve Emulators, new Cogent rear, new bars, grips, seat, TKC 80's, lowered foot pegs, fork brace, seal reatainer, case saver and added a 5.3 Acerbis Tank.

Exhaust and carb are up next. Not sure which exhaust however....? Does anyone use a steering damper with their DR?

Rode 150 miles today on and off road. The bike is handling great. I need to load her up and see how she handles with all my camp gear.
What weight are you for the springs?
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:42 PM   #76569
NC Rick
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Any of you fine DR riders headed to the ADV rally in TN " Rick's rendezvous"?

I'll be there with my old dr and I hope it's not going to be the only one. I just installed the Cogent DDC fork valves that are the cogent solution similar (but better) to the emulators/intiminators.

Hoping to get onto a couple rides as well as have a beer or two with some dr folks.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:58 PM   #76570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Copper is annealed by heating it to a dull red heat. It doesn't matter if you let it cool slowly or quench it in water the result will be the same - soft copper.

Steel is totally different and will harden if quenched from red heat but can be annealed by heating up to a specified temperature (usually not hot enough to glow red) and letting it cool slowly.
Copper has a face-centered cubic grain structure which will be optimally ductile following the quench, although the metal will be in an annealed state with air cooling as well. Another benefit of quenching from the dull red heat is that the oxide scale will be removed during quenching, leaving a nice clean sealing surface.

Regards,
Harry
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:03 AM   #76571
Bronco638
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Help w/diagnosis

Out on a ride on Saturday, I stopped and noticed that the lower fins, on the cylinder, have that "oil sheen" on them. This is just behind the exhaust pipe on the right side (rider's perspective) of the motor. I immediately thought "base gasket". Upon closer inspection, the CCT has the sheen on it as well (as do some of the cooling fins just in front of the starter).

I'm thinking it's time to replace the CCT gasket (and lube the starter motor at the same time). Base gasket appears to be dry on the other side of the motor. Could it be anything else? TIA.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:13 AM   #76572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
Any of you fine DR riders headed to the ADV rally in TN " Rick's rendezvous"?

I'll be there with my old dr and I hope it's not going to be the only one. I just installed the Cogent DDC fork valves that are the cogent solution similar (but better) to the emulators/intiminators.

Hoping to get onto a couple rides as well as have a beer or two with some dr folks.
Went to your site but missed these DDC valves. Please explain!
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:51 AM   #76573
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Most likely just a CCT gasket leak, very common.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Out on a ride on Saturday, I stopped and noticed that the lower fins, on the cylinder, have that "oil sheen" on them. This is just behind the exhaust pipe on the right side (rider's perspective) of the motor. I immediately thought "base gasket". Upon closer inspection, the CCT has the sheen on it as well (as do some of the cooling fins just in front of the starter).

I'm thinking it's time to replace the CCT gasket (and lube the starter motor at the same time). Base gasket appears to be dry on the other side of the motor. Could it be anything else? TIA.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:21 AM   #76574
procycle
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Originally Posted by Carbster View Post
Went to your site but missed these DDC valves. Please explain!
New stuff! Very exciting!
Wish I could be there in TN for a test ride.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:27 AM   #76575
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Guys -

Seems like the colder and quicker the quench, the softer the copper becomes. But my experience is limited.

Rick
-------
Copper has a face-centered cubic grain structure which will be optimally ductile following the quench, although the metal will be in an annealed state with air cooling as well.
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