ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-12-2013, 08:42 PM   #76561
NC Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
 
NC Rick's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 599
Any of you fine DR riders headed to the ADV rally in TN " Rick's rendezvous"?

I'll be there with my old dr and I hope it's not going to be the only one. I just installed the Cogent DDC fork valves that are the cogent solution similar (but better) to the emulators/intiminators.

Hoping to get onto a couple rides as well as have a beer or two with some dr folks.
__________________
Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc.
motocd.com
NC Rick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2013, 09:58 PM   #76562
Harry94025
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Oddometer: 251
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Copper is annealed by heating it to a dull red heat. It doesn't matter if you let it cool slowly or quench it in water the result will be the same - soft copper.

Steel is totally different and will harden if quenched from red heat but can be annealed by heating up to a specified temperature (usually not hot enough to glow red) and letting it cool slowly.
Copper has a face-centered cubic grain structure which will be optimally ductile following the quench, although the metal will be in an annealed state with air cooling as well. Another benefit of quenching from the dull red heat is that the oxide scale will be removed during quenching, leaving a nice clean sealing surface.

Regards,
Harry
Harry94025 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 07:03 AM   #76563
Bronco638
Nobody Home
 
Bronco638's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,661
Help w/diagnosis

Out on a ride on Saturday, I stopped and noticed that the lower fins, on the cylinder, have that "oil sheen" on them. This is just behind the exhaust pipe on the right side (rider's perspective) of the motor. I immediately thought "base gasket". Upon closer inspection, the CCT has the sheen on it as well (as do some of the cooling fins just in front of the starter).

I'm thinking it's time to replace the CCT gasket (and lube the starter motor at the same time). Base gasket appears to be dry on the other side of the motor. Could it be anything else? TIA.
__________________
There are some simple thruths......and dogs know what they are - Joseph Duemer

Andy holds the lead. And he will, all the way to the Highway. Today is his day.
Bronco638 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 07:13 AM   #76564
Carbster
Adventurer
 
Carbster's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Maryland
Oddometer: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
Any of you fine DR riders headed to the ADV rally in TN " Rick's rendezvous"?

I'll be there with my old dr and I hope it's not going to be the only one. I just installed the Cogent DDC fork valves that are the cogent solution similar (but better) to the emulators/intiminators.

Hoping to get onto a couple rides as well as have a beer or two with some dr folks.
Went to your site but missed these DDC valves. Please explain!
Carbster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 07:51 AM   #76565
Escaped
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Escaped's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Northern California
Oddometer: 450
Most likely just a CCT gasket leak, very common.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Out on a ride on Saturday, I stopped and noticed that the lower fins, on the cylinder, have that "oil sheen" on them. This is just behind the exhaust pipe on the right side (rider's perspective) of the motor. I immediately thought "base gasket". Upon closer inspection, the CCT has the sheen on it as well (as do some of the cooling fins just in front of the starter).

I'm thinking it's time to replace the CCT gasket (and lube the starter motor at the same time). Base gasket appears to be dry on the other side of the motor. Could it be anything else? TIA.
__________________
2006 DR650 52,607 miles

DR650 - Eyes open all of the time
Escaped is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 09:21 AM   #76566
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,181
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbster View Post
Went to your site but missed these DDC valves. Please explain!
New stuff! Very exciting!
Wish I could be there in TN for a test ride.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 09:27 AM   #76567
bumpathump
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Oddometer: 328
Guys -

Seems like the colder and quicker the quench, the softer the copper becomes. But my experience is limited.

Rick
-------
Copper has a face-centered cubic grain structure which will be optimally ductile following the quench, although the metal will be in an annealed state with air cooling as well.
bumpathump is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 09:32 AM   #76568
RichBeBe
All Hail Seitan!!!
 
RichBeBe's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 6,116
My DR needs some TLC and sooner than later. My bike is a junkyard bike with mismatched stuff and the motor has unknown mileage, abuse, etc.
It smokes like hell at start up so I have a gasket kit, valve seals, and a JE High Compression piston that will cure those issues.
I need to swap out the idler gear I have the new one.
I need to go through my clutch. It feels fine and releases fine, but it has drag when coming to a light. It feels slightly like it needs a slipper clutch
My speedo stopped working and I checked the cable it was good, but the speedo drive gear is bad.
So off to do some wrenching and parts scrounging over the next week. I want to take the bike on a long trip this summer so it needs the work and some mileage on it before than.
__________________
"Remember that an enduro tests the endurance of three things: your machine, your body, and your wits. Only one has to fail to keep you from reaching the finish line." Cycle World March 1966
RichBeBe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 09:38 AM   #76569
Lil' Steve
PussyWagon™ Chauffer
 
Lil' Steve's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Da Bronx, NYC
Oddometer: 3,860
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichBeBe View Post
I need to go through my clutch. It feels fine and releases fine, but it has drag when coming to a light. It feels slightly like it needs a slipper clutch

My speedo stopped working and I checked the cable it was good, but the speedo drive gear is bad.

Have you seen this post?

I sent a speedo drive out to AZ when our friend had a DR, have to look around to see if I have another.
__________________
Steve
07 KLX250S w/300 kit, 05 DR650SE, 04 XT225, 01 FZ-1
99 VFR800 w/870 kit, 96 GPz1100, 87 CH250
Lil' Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 09:47 AM   #76570
NC Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
 
NC Rick's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 599
Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpathump View Post
Guys -

Seems like the colder and quicker the quench, the softer the copper becomes. But my experience is limited.

Rick
-------
Copper has a face-centered cubic grain structure which will be optimally ductile following the quench, although the metal will be in an annealed state with air cooling as well.
So my only experience with this was back in my 20s annealing brass for my 357 mag that I felt needed to give me a nose bleed every time I pulled the trigger. Put the cases in water about a third of the way up heat 'em 'till they just glowed a bit and tip 'em. Worked a treat, saving all the splitting of cases. I was a little stupid and a lot cheap.

In a torque situation it seams like new copper washers wouldn't be that expensive...
__________________
Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc.
motocd.com
NC Rick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 10:15 AM   #76571
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
In a torque situation it seams like new copper washers wouldn't be that expensive...
That's what I was thinking too ... My Copper washers on drain plugs eventually get "squashed" down a bit over time leaving less to compress.
I replace them when I can. (like every other oil change)

But a drain plug is one thing ... head bolts are important.
I'd go with NEW Copper washers and have a close look at the threads on the original bolts too.
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 10:51 AM   #76572
RichBeBe
All Hail Seitan!!!
 
RichBeBe's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 6,116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Steve View Post
Have you seen this post?

I sent a speedo drive out to AZ when our friend had a DR, have to look around to see if I have another.
Yeah I did see that and it might make sense. I will pull the cover off after the weekends race.
__________________
"Remember that an enduro tests the endurance of three things: your machine, your body, and your wits. Only one has to fail to keep you from reaching the finish line." Cycle World March 1966
RichBeBe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 11:06 AM   #76573
Bronco638
Nobody Home
 
Bronco638's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,661
Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped
Most likely just a CCT gasket leak, very common.
That's what I figured. Thanks!
__________________
There are some simple thruths......and dogs know what they are - Joseph Duemer

Andy holds the lead. And he will, all the way to the Highway. Today is his day.
Bronco638 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 11:17 AM   #76574
DockingPilot
Hooked Up and Hard Over
 
DockingPilot's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Andover, N.J.
Oddometer: 9,222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
That's what I was thinking too ... My Copper washers on drain plugs eventually get "squashed" down a bit over time leaving less to compress.
I replace them when I can. (like every other oil change)

But a drain plug is one thing ... head bolts are important.
I'd go with NEW Copper washers and have a close look at the threads on the original bolts too.
Yea, I mean they are cheap, why not just have new ones. Your talking about the cylinder head and proper torqueing of it is fairly important I would think.
Again, when I had to take the head off my 610, I was told to replace the head bolts. Here's why. When you torque a head bolt down the threads stretch. Its figured into the initial torque value. Torqueing the head down, you want to get it right the 1st time. On a Husky anyway.
So I'd buy new bolts & washers for what they are worth. They are many places to go cheap on the DR, but the head ain't one of them me thinks.
Buts that's just me and I'm no expert. Just anal.....
__________________
Frank Reinbold

"Every bike I ever had, was the best bike I ever had, when I had it"
DockingPilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 11:50 AM   #76575
thump!
Adventurer
 
thump!'s Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,093
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichBeBe View Post
Yeah I did see that and it might make sense. I will pull the cover off after the weekends race.
Well there's something one doesn't see very often... a DR650 thread with the word 'race" in it. :eek:
thump! is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014