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Old 05-13-2013, 10:47 AM   #76561
NC Rick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpathump View Post
Guys -

Seems like the colder and quicker the quench, the softer the copper becomes. But my experience is limited.

Rick
-------
Copper has a face-centered cubic grain structure which will be optimally ductile following the quench, although the metal will be in an annealed state with air cooling as well.
So my only experience with this was back in my 20s annealing brass for my 357 mag that I felt needed to give me a nose bleed every time I pulled the trigger. Put the cases in water about a third of the way up heat 'em 'till they just glowed a bit and tip 'em. Worked a treat, saving all the splitting of cases. I was a little stupid and a lot cheap.

In a torque situation it seams like new copper washers wouldn't be that expensive...
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:15 AM   #76562
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
In a torque situation it seams like new copper washers wouldn't be that expensive...
That's what I was thinking too ... My Copper washers on drain plugs eventually get "squashed" down a bit over time leaving less to compress.
I replace them when I can. (like every other oil change)

But a drain plug is one thing ... head bolts are important.
I'd go with NEW Copper washers and have a close look at the threads on the original bolts too.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:51 AM   #76563
RichBeBe
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Originally Posted by Lil' Steve View Post
Have you seen this post?

I sent a speedo drive out to AZ when our friend had a DR, have to look around to see if I have another.
Yeah I did see that and it might make sense. I will pull the cover off after the weekends race.
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:06 PM   #76564
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped
Most likely just a CCT gasket leak, very common.
That's what I figured. Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:17 PM   #76565
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
That's what I was thinking too ... My Copper washers on drain plugs eventually get "squashed" down a bit over time leaving less to compress.
I replace them when I can. (like every other oil change)

But a drain plug is one thing ... head bolts are important.
I'd go with NEW Copper washers and have a close look at the threads on the original bolts too.
Yea, I mean they are cheap, why not just have new ones. Your talking about the cylinder head and proper torqueing of it is fairly important I would think.
Again, when I had to take the head off my 610, I was told to replace the head bolts. Here's why. When you torque a head bolt down the threads stretch. Its figured into the initial torque value. Torqueing the head down, you want to get it right the 1st time. On a Husky anyway.
So I'd buy new bolts & washers for what they are worth. They are many places to go cheap on the DR, but the head ain't one of them me thinks.
Buts that's just me and I'm no expert. Just anal.....
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:50 PM   #76566
thump!
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Originally Posted by RichBeBe View Post
Yeah I did see that and it might make sense. I will pull the cover off after the weekends race.
Well there's something one doesn't see very often... a DR650 thread with the word 'race" in it. :eek:
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:56 PM   #76567
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
The stock carb can be improved significantly with a kit from Procycle.
The CO trace in this chart indicates otherwise:




Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:10 PM   #76568
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The CO trace in this chart indicates otherwise:




Regards,

Derek
That's a run sheet for a DynoJet kit, if the info at the bottom is correct. Procycle has sold several different carb kits. While the DJ kit has been one of them, IIRC, it is not the only one. They also sell Factory Pro and another kit of unlabeled origin. With the unlabeled kit and a stock muff, 4th clip position and a 155 main would be pretty rich unless operated below sea level and/or in very cold conditions. The unlabeled kit uses Mikuni-type main jets too, IIRC. Not DJ main jets. A DJ 155 might be about right for somewhere sea-level or above with a stock muff, but the 155 Mikuni is pretty much for an opened airbox AND a free-flowing exhaust at sea level.

Kommando screwed with this post 05-13-2013 at 03:18 PM
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:22 PM   #76569
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
That's a run sheet for a DynoJet kit, if the info at the bottom is correct. Procycle has sold several different carb kits. While the DJ kit has been one of them, IIRC, it is not the only one. They also sell Factory Pro and another kit of unlabeled origin.
See http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#jetkitdr650 and http://www.procycle.us/info/question...l#pc_jet_kit-1. In the second link it says that the ProCycle kit needle has the same profile as the DJ. While the FP kit will have a more useful needle profile, note that there will be accelerated emulsion tube wear due to the titanium material it's made from.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:45 PM   #76570
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I've already said many times that I have not tuned one.
DR650 that is.
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:52 PM   #76571
motolab
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
DR650 that is.
What point is it you are trying to make?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:53 PM   #76572
eakins
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Exhaust question?

-BST carb (shimmed needle, stock jets, 2nd slide hole drilled, pilot screw, iridium plugs)
-Stock airbox with snorkle removed
-14 tooth CS
-zero plans on engine big-bore mods
-much of my riding is off-road at elevation (5-14K) and lower speeds. i use my DR as a touring dual-sport. often i'm chugging up a dirt hill in 1st gear loaded with camping gear.
-paved road speeds are in the 70-80 mph range at the most.
-I really like how the bike runs now. linear and strong with plenty of 1st gear grunt to take off.

Adding my GSXR-40 muffler back on to the bike to loose weight and breath better.

Normal Jesse mid-pipe w/ stock header or bigger mid-pipe and Jesse's big header???

Is there any advantage to the big header except on the top end? Is a pumper carb needed to take advantage of the big header?

I'm leaning towards the regular mid-pipe, stock header. Should I consider the bigger stuff at all for my situation?
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:59 PM   #76573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
What point is it you are trying to make?

Regards,

Derek
I'd say that PC is questioning your 100%-knowing-the-answer BST carb tuning expertise when you have only tuned for the KTM 640 motor and not the DR650 motor.

I have no doubt you are an expert carb tuner and thank you for the immense help you have provided me and others, but myself, I would never attempt to be expert/answerer/solution-guy for something I have not personally worked on. That's just me, but you are very confident that your KTM 640 motor experience translates over to DR650 knowledge.

I'd say PC is questioning you on that?
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:35 PM   #76574
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
I'd say that PC is questioning your 100%-knowing-the-answer BST carb tuning expertise when you have only tuned for the KTM 640 motor and not the DR650 motor.
I'd prefer if he spoke for himself.
Quote:
I have no doubt you are an expert carb tuner and thank you for the immense help you have provided me and others, but myself, I would never attempt to be expert/answerer/solution-guy for something I have not personally worked on.
I've worked on many BST40 carbs.
Quote:
That's just me, but you are very confident that your KTM 640 motor experience translates over to DR650 knowledge.
It has nothing to do with KTM640 tuning experience per se. It has to do with tuning CV carburetors in general. The trends are the trends. In my experience a needle with a shape such as the DJ needle has will always make the top end leaner than the bottom end, so the needle is at least in part responsible for the strangely shaped CO trace we see in the graph. Opening up the airbox and installing the appropriate main jet for correct high rpm mixture always trends toward making the lower rpm richer than it should be (the more it's opened the worse this gets), so you would need a needle that does the opposite in order to counter that trend. Obviously you would not want to install a needle with a shape that exhibits the same trend.

Regards,

Derelk
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:45 PM   #76575
barko1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Obviously you would not want to install a needle with a shape that exhibits the same trend.

Regards,

Derelk
So what needle do you recommend?
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