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Old 05-14-2013, 07:36 AM   #76606
Tex76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
That's what I figured. Thanks!
Just had this problem too, I have the gasket ready to go in but spread some RTV Sealant around the gasket to get me through the weekend, and it sealed the leak completely. A good stop gap if you need to buy some time.
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:22 AM   #76607
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Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Is this sorted now? My first thoughts were clutch adjustment.
No - it is better now that my idle is up to 1550 or so, but I still need to rev while pulling the clutch in to stop most times.

I will re-check clutch adjustment, but it doesn't seem to be dragging/pulling while I have the lever pulled in. Free play at the cable was correct last time I checked.

I am starting to think about opening up the carb for the first time and doing the O-rings just to be safe and checking float and other stuff while I'm at it. Preventative maintenance before my big trip would be smart, I think. I need to get the damn JIS screws replaced anyway in case I have to field strip the carb.

What's the cheapest source for the correct BST O-rings that could cause rich condition if they're going bad?

Speaking of which, I might as well throw out the request for jetting tips. I'm at sea level and I've heard that stock DR650 BST jets (with fuel screw adjustment, snorkel removed and twin air filter) is fine for sea level. Bike seems to run well (other than dying at stop signs).

BUT - in July I'm doing a 4 week tour of the Western United States. Big loop from San Fran, through Eastern Oregon on the OBDR, down the Rockies along the Divide Route and then the Western TAT.
Should I rejet for this trip or will the BST adjust enough to those elevations? I imagine we will be above 3500 ft the entire time, with plenty of riding at 6000 and higher. Any tips or links to previous discussions on this are appreciated.
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rpet screwed with this post 05-14-2013 at 10:42 AM
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:44 AM   #76608
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Originally Posted by rpet View Post
No - it is better now that my idle is up to 1550 or so, but I still need to rev while pulling the clutch in to stop most times.

Mine was doing that. It turned out to be that the choke cable was broken right where it threads into the carb. I put a hand choke on after I found this.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:08 AM   #76609
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Mine was doing that. It turned out to be that the choke cable was broken right where it threads into the carb. I put a hand choke on after I found this.
Thanks - I already have the remote choke installed, but I will re-check that it is correctly seated as a next step.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:31 AM   #76610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Thanks - I already have the remote choke installed, but I will re-check that it is correctly seated as a next step.
As you mentioned you should get the JIS screws replaced so you can do field work if necessary, buy a new pilot jet to install at that time. Seems to be a frequent problem area.

Edit: Since you're happy with the BST as it is, I'd leave it alone for your trip. The higher altitude you ride, the better the BST works. Several of us have ridden them to 12,000 + foot altitudes.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-14-2013 at 10:37 AM
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:42 AM   #76611
Mambo Dave
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Edit: Since you're happy with the BST as it is, I'd leave it alone for your trip. The higher altitude you ride, the better the BST works. Several of us have ridden them to 12,000 + foot altitudes.
Interesting! I can only hope to ever have that chance. Might have to re-jet though... I jetted it for 11 to 20 feet above sea level.

By then, though, my perfectly (?) running stock carb with the proCycle needle kit may be worn out and replaced.

But as a short term fix, I love what the ProCycle needle kit did for my bike.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:46 AM   #76612
dman
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A while ago I had asked a question about the effects of my missing rear lower chain guide (not roller). I finally upgraded/fixed my whole drivetrain ... new chain, sprockets, rear lower chain guide and new cush rubbers. Wow! What a difference. I didn't think my cush rubbers seemed too loose (16K miles) but I actually installed them a few miles after the new chain and sprockets, and they made a noticeable difference. I had to use some tire lube to help get the sprocket carrier to fit back in the hub with the new rubbers, so they're definitely a tighter fit.

I think maintaining the drivetrain goes a long way in keeping these thumpers smooth. I don't really notice any improvement with new chains on my WeeStrom or Ducati, and both have original cush rubbers after 35-45K miles on each bike.

-dman
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:23 AM   #76613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Interesting! I can only hope to ever have that chance. Might have to re-jet though... I jetted it for 11 to 20 feet above sea level.

By then, though, my perfectly (?) running stock carb with the proCycle needle kit may be worn out and replaced.

But as a short term fix, I love what the ProCycle needle kit did for my bike.
11 to 20 feet I hear you guys have horsepower down there too.
There's no doubt that we live in two different extremes of the DR environment.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:11 PM   #76614
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
guess my question to any pipe tuners out there: does a fat header affect performance across all throttle ranges or just head at the top/max throttle?
From what I've read over the years on this, a Fat, more free flowing header is mainly beneficial at HIGH RPM. Rob Muzzy (Kawi Super Bike tuner) has talked some about this, so has Kevin Cameron.

Race bikes benefit from Fat headers and more free flowing pipes because they are often at or near redline. So a HP spike can be seen at high RPM.
But when Dyno charts are compared to stock, the big headers usually lose out to stock in the low and mid range.

But on the DR650, the stock set up most likely is going to give a flatter torque curve with slightly better low and mid range torque/HP, but won't match Max HP near redline of a Fat header. Trade offs. You decide.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:21 PM   #76615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
...I've heard that stock DR650 BST jets (with fuel screw adjustment, snorkel removed and twin air filter) is fine for sea level. Bike seems to run well (other than dying at stop signs).

BUT - in July I'm doing a 4 week tour of the Western United States. Big loop from San Fran, through Eastern Oregon on the OBDR, down the Rockies along the Divide Route and then the Western TAT.
Should I rejet for this trip or will the BST adjust enough to those elevations?
Actually the stock jetting is good for high elevation. If your bike runs good at sea level with stock jetting and the snorkel removed that points to a problem. It's getting more fuel than normal.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:26 PM   #76616
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
A while ago I had asked a question about the effects of my missing rear lower chain guide (not roller). I finally upgraded/fixed my whole drivetrain ... new chain, sprockets, rear lower chain guide and new cush rubbers. Wow! What a difference. I didn't think my cush rubbers seemed too loose (16K miles) but I actually installed them a few miles after the new chain and sprockets, and they made a noticeable difference. I had to use some tire lube to help get the sprocket carrier to fit back in the hub with the new rubbers, so they're definitely a tighter fit.

I think maintaining the drivetrain goes a long way in keeping these thumpers smooth. I don't really notice any improvement with new chains on my WeeStrom or Ducati, and both have original cush rubbers after 35-45K miles on each bike.

-dman
You've discovered what a lot of long time DR owners knew. The Cush rubbers DO make a difference on the DR650. I've never owned a bike so sensitive to this. On my Vstrom I changed Cush Drive rubbers only once in its 90,000 mile history ... and it helped but was not that noticeable.

I've changed my DR Cush Rubbers twice ... once at around 20K ... again
at 40K. Having a fresh countershaft sprocket also helps smoothness. After my last Baja ride my bike felt like the Clutch Basket was shot ... a front sprocket change made everything like new again. Now THAT is a cheap fix!
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:50 PM   #76617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
BUT - in July I'm doing a 4 week tour of the Western United States. Big loop from San Fran, through Eastern Oregon on the OBDR, down the Rockies along the Divide Route and then the Western TAT.
Should I rejet for this trip or will the BST adjust enough to those elevations? I imagine we will be above 3500 ft the entire time, with plenty of riding at 6000 and higher. Any tips or links to previous discussions on this are appreciated.
Sounds like a great trip! Have fun!
I'm sure you'll get lots of opinions on this. I screwed around with the stock set up for a year on my DR650. Shims, Snorkel on/off, different Main jets, different Pilot, Air Box side cover off, on and on and lots more. I did about 5000 miles of testing.

NONE of it really worked all that well and MPG was crap ... and not even close to what changing out the stock needle and opening up the air box did.

Going with an adjustable needle gives you lots of room to TUNE on your ride as you go. Add an extended fuel screw, really helps once up over about 6000 ft.

If 3500 ft. and above you can run fairly LEAN for most of your ride ... but you can fine tune by changing needle clip position, main jet and adjusting fuel screw. (with open air box, probably something like a 150 main, stock Pilot, 4th clip on needle, fuel screw out 1 turn, will be in the Ball Park)

I would go with either the Pro Cycle kit or Keintech kit, both offer reasonable up grades. If your bike is over 7 years old then I would replace Carb O rings. Worth checking them out even on newer bike. I would use OEM Suzuki O rings. Very high quality Japanese rubber.

Once I cut open my Air box and added the Dyno Jet needle my bike was transformed. Not only did it get better MPG (47 to 52), it has good throttle response, no stalling and will pull wheelies off power in 2nd gear. Not bad.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:43 PM   #76618
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Actually the stock jetting is good for high elevation. If your bike runs good at sea level with stock jetting and the snorkel removed that points to a problem. It's getting more fuel than normal.
Right, I may be too rich... planning to open up the carb soon to clean, inspect o-rings and the like.
What pilot jet changes would you suggest for sea level? thanks for the reply.

I'm going to procure an adjustable needle or shim the needle at the same time as the inspection.
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'76 Xl250 '04 XR250R '09 DR650 '10 TR450
Ride The West - OBDR, CDR & western TAT - July 2013
Instagram with plenty of bike pics.
Read my homie's underway Africa trip RR - Round Africa with a Surboard
WTB: Clarke tank for DR650 for cheap - any color but blue.
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:48 PM   #76619
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Right, I may be too rich... planning to open up the carb soon to clean, inspect o-rings and the like.
What pilot jet changes would you suggest for sea level? thanks for the reply.

I'm going to procure an adjustable needle or shim the needle at the same time as the inspection.
I would not change the pilot jet.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:55 PM   #76620
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I would not change the pilot jet.
Just needle and fuel screw then? I thought I read the Main is generally fine as-is also. thanks!
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Ride The West - OBDR, CDR & western TAT - July 2013
Instagram with plenty of bike pics.
Read my homie's underway Africa trip RR - Round Africa with a Surboard
WTB: Clarke tank for DR650 for cheap - any color but blue.
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