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Old 05-14-2013, 03:03 PM   #76606
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
does a fat header affect performance across all throttle ranges or just head at the top/max throttle?
It isn't throttle range it's RPM range.
The horsepower benefits in the upper end of the rev range (passing a truck up a hill). The good looks benefit at all RPMs even when not running.
Here's a dyno chart comparing the stock head pipe directly with the PowerBomb. The gain starts in the mid-range and grows with RPM. There is no significant lower end loss.

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Old 05-14-2013, 03:08 PM   #76607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Just needle and fuel screw then? I thought I read the Main is generally fine as-is also. thanks!
Yes, pilot and main are A-OK for an unmodified bike. The main jetting issues for an all stock bike can be remedied with the needle and idle mixture screw.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:38 PM   #76608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
11 to 20 feet I hear you guys have horsepower down there too.
There's no doubt that we live in two different extremes of the DR environment.
I used to do all of the dyno development work Orient Express and TiForce exhaust systems and I would get calls "What elevation are you guys at?" I would say "Hold on a minute" and then pick up the phone and say "Since it is high tide about two feet' in about 6 hours it might be 5 feet"
We were literally on a canal and I could see the water from the door
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:33 PM   #76609
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I exchanged a PM with Derek regarding the fuel enrichment vs pilot jet re cold/warming running. He was very informative and offers the non-US OEM jet. Seems like a good guy to deal with so far.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:01 PM   #76610
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This is good advice...take it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Actually the stock jetting is good for high elevation. If your bike runs good at sea level with stock jetting and the snorkel removed that points to a problem. It's getting more fuel than normal.
A stock DR650 with stock jetting (minus the snorkle) runs fine at the altitudes you find here in Colorado. Do yourself a big favor and keep it simple so your trip out here won't be spent wondering where you screwed up your carburetor adjustment, i.e. cut air box, jet kits, etc.

I am on my second all stock DR650, and after many, many thousands of miles, it still starts and runs perfect at all altitudes, AND gets 55-58 MPG on a regular basis. A properly cleaned and oiled air cleaner is also a big plus.

You may find it necessary to raise the idle at higher altitudes as the thin air can make even a properly jetted bike a little sluggish at idle.

Enjoy your trip!

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Old 05-14-2013, 08:03 PM   #76611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by refokus View Post
It doesn't surprise me, (or probably anyone else on here) that you don't understand. I really don't think any explanation would clear it up either for you.

Also, it wasn't a complaint but an observation. To be a complaint I would have to be a customer and with the customer service that you displayed I don't ever see that happening.
The dude is selling an $18 motorycle part, after providing a large amount of free information that you can choose to believe or disbelieve. This isn't some gross exploitation of the ADVrider masses.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I exchanged a PM with Derek regarding the fuel enrichment vs pilot jet re cold/warming running. He was very informative and offers the non-US OEM jet. Seems like a good guy to deal with so far.
Same here.

And, I've had great transactions with Procycle and a half dozen other vendors on ADVrider too.

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Old 05-14-2013, 08:05 PM   #76612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaZ9 View Post
A stock DR650 with stock jetting (minus the snorkle) runs fine at the altitudes you find here in Colorado. Do yourself a big favor and keep it simple so your trip out here won't be spent wondering where you screwed up your carburetor adjustment, i.e. cut air box, jet kits, etc.

I am on my second all stock DR650, and after many, many thousands of miles, it still starts and runs perfect at all altitudes, AND gets 55-58 MPG on a regular basis. A properly cleaned and oiled air cleaner is also a big plus.

You may find it necessary to raise the idle at higher altitudes as the thin air can make even a properly jetted bike a little sluggish at idle.

Enjoy your trip!

Taz9
I appreciate your response. I just need to rectify what I believe is an unduly rich mix at my home sea level. Then, I think this steed will be good for the LONG miles and the HIGH elevations... in other words exactly what I bought it for. #party
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:17 AM   #76613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
From what I've read over the years on this, a Fat, more free flowing header is mainly beneficial at HIGH RPM. Rob Muzzy (Kawi Super Bike tuner) has talked some about this, so has Kevin Cameron.

Race bikes benefit from Fat headers and more free flowing pipes because they are often at or near redline. So a HP spike can be seen at high RPM.
But when Dyno charts are compared to stock, the big headers usually lose out to stock in the low and mid range.

But on the DR650, the stock set up most likely is going to give a flatter torque curve with slightly better low and mid range torque/HP, but won't match Max HP near redline of a Fat header. Trade offs. You decide.
thanks. i've decided to keep the stock header and just get the mid-pipe.
i can understand the benefits of a fat header, but i'm a low and mid-range off-road rider.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:24 AM   #76614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
No - it is better now that my idle is up to 1550 or so, but I still need to rev while pulling the clutch in to stop most times.

I will re-check clutch adjustment, but it doesn't seem to be dragging/pulling while I have the lever pulled in. Free play at the cable was correct last time I checked.

I am starting to think about opening up the carb for the first time and doing the O-rings just to be safe and checking float and other stuff while I'm at it. Preventative maintenance before my big trip would be smart, I think. I need to get the damn JIS screws replaced anyway in case I have to field strip the carb.

What's the cheapest source for the correct BST O-rings that could cause rich condition if they're going bad?

Speaking of which, I might as well throw out the request for jetting tips. I'm at sea level and I've heard that stock DR650 BST jets (with fuel screw adjustment, snorkel removed and twin air filter) is fine for sea level. Bike seems to run well (other than dying at stop signs).

BUT - in July I'm doing a 4 week tour of the Western United States. Big loop from San Fran, through Eastern Oregon on the OBDR, down the Rockies along the Divide Route and then the Western TAT.
Should I rejet for this trip or will the BST adjust enough to those elevations? I imagine we will be above 3500 ft the entire time, with plenty of riding at 6000 and higher. Any tips or links to previous discussions on this are appreciated.
I run from sea-level to over 14K with my BST. i just added 2 washers to shim the needle plus an adjustable pilot jet screw. I also have Irdidium plugs which I feel helps when the a/f ratio is off a bit. I know it helps to start the bike on a cold mountain morning. Pull off your airbox cover if you find you are having rich running symptoms when up high. This can help some.

Sounds like a sweet trip. Don't miss some of the BDR routes:
http://www.backcountrydiscoveryroutes.com/
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:26 AM   #76615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
I appreciate your response. I just need to rectify what I believe is an unduly rich mix at my home sea level. Then, I think this steed will be good for the LONG miles and the HIGH elevations... in other words exactly what I bought it for. #party
not sure how your BST is rich at sea level?
stock is lean and like PC said ideal above 6K.
go back to stock jets if you haven't already.
yes the BST does a decent enough job adjusting to altitude changes.
that is one advantage it has over a pumper carb from what i've read.
i remember a ride report of guys going over 17K on the Khardung La and the guy on a stock DR motored along while everyone else had to rejet.
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eakins screwed with this post 05-15-2013 at 01:34 AM
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:03 AM   #76616
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posted this on the australian DR page then thought it might be worth dropping in here too.

i made a set of my own Legs Pegs for the DR. the moment i'm off road i like to stand pretty much all the time but it can get tiring on the upper body on all day rides, let alone five day rides.

just cut up and drilled some alloy plate, bought a pair of big door stops from the hardware, grabbed some spare alloy spacers, and stainless bolts. works a treat and cost $6... beats paying $150 for the real thing, which they don't make for the DR anyway.



did a bit of a write up on drriders here if you want to see more piccies.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:10 AM   #76617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
posted this on the australian DR page then thought it might be worth dropping in here too.

i made a set of my own Legs Pegs for the DR. the moment i'm off road i like to stand pretty much all the time but it can get tiring on the upper body on all day rides, let alone five day rides.

just cut up and drilled some alloy plate, bought a pair of big door stops from the hardware, grabbed some spare alloy spacers, and stainless bolts. works a treat and cost $6... beats paying $150 for the real thing, which they don't make for the DR anyway.



did a bit of a write up on drriders here if you want to see more piccies.
Nice! Let me know if you start selling these as I am very interested.

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Old 05-15-2013, 08:52 AM   #76618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76
Just had this problem too, I have the gasket ready to go in but spread some RTV Sealant around the gasket to get me through the weekend, and it sealed the leak completely. A good stop gap if you need to buy some time.
Thanks Tex but the DR can sit until I get time to resolve the issue. I have a CCT gasket on order (even though I know I don't need one) and will R/R the starter motor, and lube the internal bushing, at the same time.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:13 AM   #76619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Thanks Tex but the DR can sit until I get time to resolve the issue. I have a CCT gasket on order (even though I know I don't need one) and will R/R the starter motor, and lube the internal bushing, at the same time.
Are you going to pull the starter to lube? I read a writeup where a guy just drilled a hole, lubed, then plugged it back up. I need to do the same thing, starting mr DR in the morning wakes up every dog within 5 miles
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:25 AM   #76620
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Flat spot?

I'm new to DR's. My experience so far has been to test ride three, one of which I have purchased. All three had a flat spot on moderate acceleration. Am I to assume this is common to all of them? Could all three have sat too long and have goo in their carbs? The bikes were 2006 and 2008 models.

On my previous rides, KLR250 and KLS250s, there is a capped fuel screw on the carb which, when turned richer, helped eradicate this problem. I see this on my DR carb as well. How much of an improvement can I expect from this adjustment?

Yes I did read most of the carb banter here but hope to accomplish a reasonable improvement with the least invasive surgery.

Thanks
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