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Old 05-16-2013, 08:27 AM   #76681
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You have made this claim in different ways and at different times but when you are asked for evidence of this you trot out your opinions about trends, shapes and traces instead of talking about examples of results.
I have some simple questions for you:

1) Do you deny what the needle shape trends for CV carbs are?
2) If not, do you believe the DR650 to somehow be an exception (i.e. that a change in shape that makes an area richer on a different bike makes it leaner on the DR650?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:34 AM   #76682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
OK. I,ve done 10,000klm's only with the 2nd hole. But havn't had the carb apart again to check for wear since cos it goes so awsomely there is no need.
Please provide:

1) The depth of the depressions concentric to the bore in the bottom corners of the slide guide.
2) The lift hole diameter (or better yet, area).
3) How many total miles there are on the slide guide.
4) How many miles ago the lift hole area was increased.
5) What the under-diaphragm carb vent filtration consists of.

Quote:
DJ kit etc
Unfortunately "goes awesomely" is a fairly subjective and anecdotal assessment. Please provide a dyno chart with at least a CO trace (or ideally one each for wide, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16 openings).

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 10-10-2013 at 08:19 PM
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:38 AM   #76683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
When I had the bike back together, I had it tuned on a dyno (I could not find a dyno, in Chicago-land, that could run a CO2 trace).
Thanks so much for your comments. One slight correction though - it's CO (rather than CO2) that's the best indicator of mixture strength, and would therefore hopefully be shown on a dyno chart.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:39 AM   #76684
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Thumb Dyno comparisons

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
It's better on all bikes mild to wild.
Here's the 'stock bike' dyno chart again:

Thanks Jeff!

This is the comparison of the FMF Hi-Flo header with stock?
I can see that the stock is better for my DR since I don't ride it in the higher revs.
Yes, I do have a tachometer. (Tiny Tach)

My street tracker though is another story though, and why I made my own tapered header.
It is meant to be ridden at high rpm.

Do you have a dyno comparison chart of the FMF Power Bomb header with stock?

Are you running a Hi-Flo on both your 790 & 900?

Is there an easy way for us to find your dyno charts on your site?
I searched and couldn't find a way other than clicking on the ones you have linked in some of the item descriptions.

I couldn't find this dyno chart anywhere, nor are charts linked for either of the FMF headers.

I know you have lots of helpful info on your site, I just can't always find it...
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:42 AM   #76685
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
50k with a drilled slide and none of those issues to date that you mention there Derek.
I find that hard to believe, since slide guides wear even when the slide has not been drilled and the under-diaphragm vent filtering is perfect.

Please provide:

1) The depth of the depressions concentric to the bore in the bottom corners of the slide guide.
2) What the lift hole diameter (or better yet, area) is.
3) How many total miles there are on the slide guide.
4) How many miles ago the lift hole area was increased.
5) What the under-diaphragm carb vent filtration consists of.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 05-16-2013 at 09:12 AM
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:45 AM   #76686
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
11,000 miles over 7 1/2 years without any noticeable wear.

20,000 total miles on carb. second hole was 5/32 I believe, (per Kientech site) I have the world famous "Rusty Rocket/Briggs and Stratton" mod on my carb diaphram filter.
Please provide the depth of the depressions concentric to the bore in the bottom corners of the slide guide.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 05-16-2013 at 09:12 AM
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:48 AM   #76687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
I have 42,000 miles on my 06 dr650 with about 38k of those miles after slide was drilled.
Please provide:

1) The depth of the depressions concentric to the bore in the bottom corners of the slide guide.
2) What the lift hole diameter (or better yet, area) is.
3) What the under-diaphragm carb vent filtration consists of.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 05-16-2013 at 09:12 AM
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:57 AM   #76688
Tex76
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Carb Noob

Ok guys, what might be a dumb question to follow. I'm trying to become as smart as some of you (or at least as smart as some of you THINK you are). Here's my dilemna:

My bike has been running well, I just want to get more familiar with how it works and tweak. I went to adjust the fule mixture screw and found it was completely screwed in (previous owner put on DJ kit and extended fuel screw) so I backed it out to 1 1/4 turn and rode home. It was quite a bit slower and less responsive which confuses me. Felt like it wasrunning much leaner to me. The way I understand it, the screw richens the mixture the more you UNscrew it. Makes sense as unscrewing it would open up the passage way. Does this sound wrong to you gurus? It's hard for me to visualize exactly what the changes I make do to the carb. Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:59 AM   #76689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Don't forget that the 90-95 DR650 had 2 slide lift holes from the factory. Those bikes are not known for premature carb wear.

I agree that in theory the quicker response of the slide could increase wear. But how much? 5%? 20%? 1%? more? less? I just bought a DR650 with 48,000 miles on it. Runs like a champ so I know the needle jet isn't worn or at least not enough to matter. Maybe the some components will be worn out by 70,000 or 80,000 miles. Maybe if the slide was drilled it would only have 50,000 or 60,000 good miles in it, maybe a lot more. Nobody really knows, least of all Derek who apparently has never applied hand tools to a DR650.

Asking for proof to back up his claims is what got me labeled as "uncivilized"
I wondered about that needle/slide wear too. My Carb had the extra hole drilled. It was not working great at around 30K miles. The slide did show some wear but the DJ needle and needle jet looked OK ... still like new.

I think what may have caused the slide wear on my first Carb was all the dirt that got inside from not paying attention to vent filter. Carb full of dirt. So that might have contributed?

The "new" Carb seems fine so far with about 20 to 25K miles on it ... but I have NOT drilled the slide. I take care the filters, all runs good. The transferred the original DJ Needle over to new Carb ... so that needle is now up over 50K miles.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:11 AM   #76690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
I went to adjust the fule mixture screw and found it was completely screwed in (previous owner put on DJ kit and extended fuel screw) so I backed it out to 1 1/4 turn and rode home. It was quite a bit slower and less responsive which confuses me. Felt like it wasrunning much leaner to me. The way I understand it, the screw richens the mixture the more you UNscrew it. Makes sense as unscrewing it would open up the passage way.
Unscrewing the fuel screw makes the mixture richer. There is normally not much overlap between the fuel screw's affect on closed throttle and other openings. That opening the fuel screw made the engine run worse, and that it significantly affected openings other than closed throttle indicate that the mixture is already too rich for other reasons. The first things I would check would be:

1) Is the pilot air bleed jet clean?
2) What is the fuel level in the float bowl?
3) What size is the pilot jet?
4) What is the depth of the depressions concentric to the bore in the bottom corners of the slide guide (which will give an indication of whether the emulsion tube is likely to be worn)?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:30 AM   #76691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
1) Is the pilot air bleed jet clean?
2) What is the fuel level in the float bowl?
3) What size is the pilot jet?
4) What is the depth of the depressions concentric to the bore in the bottom corners of the slide guide (which will give an indication of whether the emulsion tube is likely to be worn)?

Regards,

Derek
Sounds like I need to pull the carb and give it a good once over. I figured that meant something was wrong with the setup. Thanks!
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:35 AM   #76692
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
My Carb had the extra hole drilled. It was not working great at around 30K miles. The slide did show some wear but the DJ needle and needle jet looked OK ... still like new.
How many miles prior had the hole been drilled and what size was it? Are you saying the slide showed wear, the slide guide showed wear, or both? What is the depth of the depressions concentric to the bore in the bottom corners of the slide guide?

I'm not surprised that the DJ needle looked OK, as it's stainless steel, but stainless steel is also harder on the emulsion tube than aluminum. You may not be able to see the wear on the emulsion tube. It takes less than a 0.0005" change in diameter to produce an unambiguous change in CO% on the dyno. This is corroberated by the fact that emulsion tubes for aftermarket Mikuni carbs come in 0.0002" or 0.0004" increments. On the KTM, you need to be worried about emulsion tube wear when the slide guide wear gets to ~0.010". On the DR650, this may be a touch later because the emulsion tube is nickel plated.
Quote:
I think what may have caused the slide wear on my first Carb was all the dirt that got inside from not paying attention to vent filter. Carb full of dirt. So that might have contributed?
Absolutely.
Quote:
The "new" Carb seems fine so far with about 20 to 25K miles on it ... but I have NOT drilled the slide.
What is the depth of the depressions concentric to the bore in the bottom corners of this slide guide?
Quote:
The transferred the original DJ Needle over to new Carb ... so that needle is now up over 50K miles.
The DJ needle should last for a long, long time. But it will be at the expense of the emulsion tube.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:49 AM   #76693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
.................................... I have the world famous "Rusty Rocket/Briggs and Stratton" mod on my carb diaphram filter.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:51 AM   #76694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty rocket View Post
but it's worth it.
+1
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:53 AM   #76695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
...and the air box is pretty much back to stock form, with the snorkel removed..
This is what it takes to make the DR run properly with an OEM needle.
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