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Old 05-16-2013, 05:13 PM   #76756
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There are differences between the two BST applications. I think this is the most confusing. Our 'float weight' is hidden in here.

Thanks,

That looks like mine so I'll press on...

I drilled out the cap and found my idle screw to be only a half turn out.

Anyone want to suggest a good starting point? My extended screw won't be here for a few days and I'd like to reassemble tonight.

On my KLR250, the procedure I used was to turn the screw in until the rpms fell, then while counting the turns, screw out until the rpms fell again. Then I split the difference. Does that make sense for the DR with stock everything?
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:20 PM   #76757
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Thanks,
On my KLR250, the procedure I used was to turn the screw in until the rpms fell, then while counting the turns, screw out until the rpms fell again. Then I split the difference. Does that make sense for the DR with stock everything?
Little different on the DR. You will have a HARD TIME adjusting the stock fuel screw when bike is running. I would set it to ONE TURN OUT to start. This may help with performance, maybe not.

When bike is running the basic method is similar to your KLR ...
1. fully warm motor
2. set idle to low setting
3. turn iN screw until motor begins to stumble
4. back OUT about 1/2 turn from there.
5. Re-set idle to about 1400 RPM

(if you were to continue to back out screw ... it would simply fall out. RPM
would not drop much. Going IN is leaner, going OUT is richer.)
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:26 PM   #76758
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Little different on the DR. You will have a HARD TIME adjusting the stock fuel screw when bike is running. I would set it to ONE TURN OUT to start. This may help with performance, maybe not.

When bike is running the basic method is similar to your KLR ...
1. fully warm motor
2. set idle to low setting
3. turn iN screw until motor begins to stumble
4. back OUT about 1/2 turn from there.
5. Re-set idle to about 1400 RPM

(if you were to continue to back out screw ... it would simply fall out. RPM
would not drop much. Going IN is leaner, going OUT is richer.)

Great, thanks!
I have no way to measure my RPM's. I have an old Tach/Dwell meter from working on my Camaro in 1976 but I haven't figured out how to use it on the bike.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:47 PM   #76759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Great, thanks!
I have no way to measure my RPM's. I have an old Tach/Dwell meter from working on my Camaro in 1976 but I haven't figured out how to use it on the bike.
If you wanna adjust while running a small flat blade hex bit will work. 1400 rpms is just about where it sounds like it is idling too fast.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:46 PM   #76760
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Question Jeff?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Thanks Jeff!

This chart is the comparison of the FMF Hi-Flo header with stock?
I can see that the stock is better for my DR since I don't ride it in the higher revs.
Yes, I do have a tachometer. (Tiny Tach)

My street tracker though is another story though, and why I made my own tapered header.
It is meant to be ridden at high rpm.

Do you have a dyno comparison chart of the FMF Power Bomb header with stock?

Are you running a Hi-Flo on both your 790 & 900?

Is there an easy way for us to find your dyno charts on your site?
I searched and couldn't find a way other than clicking on the ones you have linked in some of the item descriptions.

I couldn't find this dyno chart anywhere, nor are charts linked for either of the FMF headers.

I know you have lots of helpful info on your site, I just can't always find it...
Hi Jeff, in the carb "discussion" do you miss my questions?

I have your ProCycle jet kit in both my DR's and am quite happy with the improvement.
Thanks for putting together a nice kit.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:27 PM   #76761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Hi Jeff, in the carb "discussion" do you miss my questions?

I have your ProCycle jet kit in both my DR's and am quite happy with the improvement.
Thanks for putting together a nice kit.
My dyno testing didn't show much of any detectable difference between the Hi-Flow header and the PowerBomb. The PowerBomb header is a higher quality piece and a better fit because it was designed in-house at FMF. The Hi-Flow header was originally a copy of the old Keintech oversize header. I'm running the PowerBomb on 3 of my DRs.

There's one thing that's key to getting the full benefit from either header. You should use a muffler that does not have the necked down restriction of the muffler gasket. That means either a FMF Q4, PowerCore 4 or the Keintech mid-pipe that is a slip fit on the large diameter headpipe. Other brands of muffler are necked down to fit in the stock muffler gasket. This restriction kills the benefit of the larger header and negates some of the advantage of a free flowing muffler.

The ProCycle web site does not have a repository of dyno chart images.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:37 PM   #76762
8gv
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In my efforts to improve my carb I noticed this white connector under the seat. It is not plugged in to anyhthing and I can't find it's mate. Any ideas on what it could be for?


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Old 05-16-2013, 10:32 PM   #76763
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There are several unused connecters on the DR. For instance: tach light, throttle position switch, headlight flash, NSU optional circuitry, etc.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=136
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Old 05-17-2013, 12:22 AM   #76764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Yes.0.020" (0.51mm).On the KTM, it would be 0.010" (0.25mm). The '96 & up DR650 might tolerate a little more because the emulsion tube is nickel plated. That advantage would again mostly be negated by the use of a stainless steel or titanium needle.Regards,

Derek
The NZ/AU spec emulsion tube is brass.
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:40 AM   #76765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
if you are referring to me as the you:
"but at the same time wonder why you choose to direct all sort of vitriol at Motolab."

that is not me. i've always said I just want to hear some 2nd hand feedback from someone besides Motolab. thanks for the response.
No eakins, that was not directed at you. I find your posts to be quite informative and level-headed. That comment was directed at other inmates that choose to pop in, fire off a few salvos and then bail.

I think the point Derek may be trying to make, thru copious detail, is that you can have your carb perform better than stock, help the engine make more power and at the same time not subject it to accelerated wear. It's painfully obvious that the open air box, DJ kit, drilled slide and GSXR muffler do wonders for the bike but at what cost? Accelerated wear. For some of you (as eakins pointed out), that's the "cost of doing business" and are OK with that. I have no issue with that either and if the parts you purchase, to replace worn ones, keep those parts available, for when I need them, fantastic. My carb, before rebuild, was pretty much worn out. The motor still seemed to run just fine. But, to me, it could be made to operate more efficiently and at a lower cost per mile. That's got my name written all over it.

There are a multitude of combinations that will work here, obviously. Is one 'better' than another? That's subjective. This subject is hard enough to understand and with the various combinations, anyone trying to figure this out, by reading the thread, will get lost very quickly (I have a basic grasp and get lost quickly). It's too bad we couldn't consolidate information someplace. The problem is lack of concrete information; I'm sure everyone would be willing to share the info but without a baseline, or dyno run, it's not going to be the database it could be.

We just need to agree to disagree and let it go at that.
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:47 AM   #76766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv
I'm pretty sure I have the same connector, in the same location. You should be OK.

One thing I do notice is that your secondary carb breather (black barrel shaped object to the left of the air box snorkel) appears to have lost, or ingested, the foam filter. I would highly suggest you rectify that immediately. You can easily replace the foam or get one from Pro Cycle:

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Old 05-17-2013, 06:54 AM   #76767
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Hey guys - I have a fueling/jetting issue on my all stock 2007 DR650.

Th other day when I went to ride the bike, I noticed that all of a sudden the bike is idling high - about 2K, or just a bit higher.

The idle adjuster is all backed out and the throttle cam ( is that the correct term) is stopping/resting when at idle on the idle adjustment threaded housing( the housing that the actual adjustable idle crew rides in).

I'm at 4200' and until this occurred, the bike has been running flawlessly with perfect carbueration and great MPG(about 60-70mpg, but then again, I drive like a grandma).

Thanks!
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:44 AM   #76768
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I'm pretty sure I have the same connector, in the same location. You should be OK.

One thing I do notice is that your secondary carb breather (black barrel shaped object to the left of the air box snorkel) appears to have lost, or ingested, the foam filter. I would highly suggest you rectify that immediately. You can easily replace the foam or get one from Pro Cycle:

There is a thin foam filter in the black can that I cleaned and put back into service, but I do like yours more.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:00 AM   #76769
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Yes. Or run by your local auto parts store and look at their filter selection. Crankcase breather filter maybe.

http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:00 AM   #76770
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I cut up and used part of a synthetic sponge to replace the thinner foam in that breather.

Seems to work.

Later on I also coated that same sponge with air filter oil.
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