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Old 05-22-2013, 10:59 AM   #76906
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So let's see if I got this right...

I was getting some light backfire when using engine braking with the throttle closed. I turned the mixture screw richer (out) a half turn and it went away.
I did this because I believe the backfire came from a lean condition.

Am I right?
Although the backfire went away, so did several MPG. The mixture screw flows fuel at all throttle openings and wastes some fuel doing so. Tim nails the explanation below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
No. Yes. The backfire comes from a lack of a decel circuit in the BST40 carb. Many carbs have a circuit that trickles a small amount of fuel when the throttle is closed and that's why you don't hear it on them. Suzuki chose not to use that system. The only correct way to get ride of it is to replace the carb with one that has a decel circuit. That backfiring is not hurting a thing, Suzuki engineers know a thing or two about engines.


Tim
Fixt to avoid confusion, even if I was the only one.
Technically, the backfire comes from a lean condition, as you went on to say.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:17 AM   #76907
yachabibi
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so... cop pulled me over, tail light not working

Last night, toward the end of a very long ride, 650 miles, a cop pulled me over to tell me that tall light wasn't working.
I had to tape my flashlight ( red led) to my luggage rack so cop would let me go.
I have the 250 mod and the led license plate light.
Neither are working when the bike is on but both light up for breaking.
this problem is also intermittent.
where do I even start trouble shooting?
Apart from replacing turn signals and battery I have installed Oxford heated grips and hid headlight from procycles.
thanks
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:33 AM   #76908
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Although the backfire went away, so did several MPG. The mixture screw flows fuel at all throttle openings and wastes some fuel doing so. Tim nails the explanation below.
Technically, the backfire comes from a lean condition, as you went on to say.
Yea, seems counterintuitive. Also, the mixture screw flows fuel even when throttle is fully closed, that fuel is wasted.

I found by leaning out my mixture screw (pilot fuel screw?), my overall MPG went up from about 46 MPG up close to 50 MPG. My idle is just a tiny bit lumpy but worth it for the improved MPG. I have the stock muffler and wear ear plugs, so the minor backfiring not an issue (for me). With a loud Yosh pipe (or other loud pipe) ... it may drive you crazy?
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:44 AM   #76909
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yachabibi View Post
Last night, toward the end of a very long ride, 650 miles, a cop pulled me over to tell me that tall light wasn't working.
I had to tape my flashlight ( red led) to my luggage rack so cop would let me go.
I have the 250 mod and the led license plate light.
Neither are working when the bike is on but both light up for breaking.
this problem is also intermittent.
where do I even start trouble shooting?
Apart from replacing turn signals and battery I have installed Oxford heated grips and hid headlight from procycles.
thanks
Hi Yachabibi and welcome to the site.

The plate and tail light run on the same wire, start at the tail light and work your way forward.
Do us a favor and fill in your profile location; state or country.

The red circles indicate connectors that aren't used in the USA. So you'll find plugs just hanging around, don't fret.
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2004 DR650: 62,402 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:49 AM   #76910
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yachabibi View Post
Last night, toward the end of a very long ride, 650 miles, a cop pulled me over to tell me that tall light wasn't working.
I had to tape my flashlight ( red led) to my luggage rack so cop would let me go.
I have the 250 mod and the led license plate light.
Neither are working when the bike is on but both light up for breaking.
this problem is also intermittent.
where do I even start trouble shooting?
Apart from replacing turn signals and battery I have installed Oxford heated grips and hid headlight from procycles.
thanks
Not too hard to track down. The wires for the tail light/license plate light are under the rear fender and I think come from the left side, under the side cover, near the Reg. / Regulator. There you should find some snap together connectors. Turn signals wires are there too ... separate from tail light, IIRC. Trace them down and try to figure out which are which for what!

But I would start by removing the tail light lens and possibly the whole tail light assembly: Inspect bulb, bulb socket and wiring. Trace wires back to connectors mentioned above. Look for corrosion, rust. Clean and apply di-lectric grease to all connection points and bulb socket. Bulb is a DUAL filament bulb. Perhaps the Running light filament is burnt out? Brake light filament still OK? Move connectors around to induce intermittent state and to help identify the fault.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:00 PM   #76911
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet
3/4 covered airbox is the same as stock snorkel removed or a different hole size?
About the same as simply having the snorkel removed from a stock air box (which is why I'm thinking about buying your stock air box, if you still have it and want to sell it ).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped
If you looking to increase HP you would need to increase main jet size with an open airbox.

I think your dyno run clearly shows that. On course you would get no were near 60 MPG if you did.

I run with side cover removed, FMF muffler and 160 Dynojet Main Jet, Dynojet needle on groove #4 from the top, slide drilled.

I don't know if Factor Pro and Dynojet, jet sizes are comparable.

No dyno test but has run great for 39K + miles.
Nope, not looking to do anything else with respect to intake/exhaust. As I mentioned previously, I'd be happy with the DR in stock configuration (with respect to fuel delivery). My DR, when I acquired it, was far from stock, so I went to a simpler configuration that's easier to maintain (without going back to bone stock). 39 hp is plenty (for me).
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:50 PM   #76912
stretch160
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Location: up-state SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bultaco206 View Post
Just installed a Seat Concepts kit on my DR this morning. I've had one on my KLX for a year and swear by it. I have one to install on my DL, too.



I just installed the SC tall, firm on my bike. So far I am very happy. SC installs a thin layer of soft foam on top of the firm supportive foam. I've always felt like this was the best of both worlds :)


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Old 05-22-2013, 12:55 PM   #76913
Bultaco206
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Very nice. My hand is still sore from the stapler.

I logged a few miles last night. Awesome upgrade.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:36 PM   #76914
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
They can say it flows more air, and as far as I know, they do.
On some bikes that's not the case at all.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:37 PM   #76915
BlueLghtning
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Newnan, GA
Oddometer: 5,008
Quote:
Originally Posted by ketur View Post
I just found out previous owner put rear axle in the wrong direction. Nut is on left side. I don't think this is catastrophic but I'm finding a rather large handful of funny things on this bike. Also I'd say the rear axle was torqued to about 20ft lbs... Thank goodness for cotter pins...
The axle being put in the opposite direction isn't hurting a thing. In fact on some bikes, like the old TL1000, this was a popular switch as it helped keep the axle tight against the adjusters while you tightened it down. Running it the factory installed way, usually had the axle sliding back away from the adjusters and you had to loosen and start over again. Since the DR650 has the pre-notched axle adjuster plates, this probably isn't as a big of an issue, but it really doesn't hurt anything either way.

Axle nut lose, yeah that can be a problem though.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:40 PM   #76916
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
If anyone is interested, I've posted the dyno sheet for my DR: LINK
Unfortunately no CO traces.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:41 PM   #76917
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
I don't know if Factor Pro and Dynojet, jet sizes are comparable.
They're not.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:46 PM   #76918
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I ordered a Needle Jet for a DR650 locally and got the nickel plated Y5-M instead of our brass Y5.
Aha. So that brings up the question of why Suzuki would go to a nickel-plated emulsion tube.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:51 PM   #76919
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I was getting occasional pinking on 95.
And we have another one.

To clarify, this is 95 RON rather than 95 (R+M)/2, right?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:56 PM   #76920
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Usually pinging means you're on the lean side of stoichometic combustion for a given compression ratio and timing advance.
Not necessarily.

Regards,

Derek
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