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Old 05-22-2013, 11:55 AM   #76936
Bultaco206
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Mineral Point, WI
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Very nice. My hand is still sore from the stapler.

I logged a few miles last night. Awesome upgrade.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:36 PM   #76937
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
They can say it flows more air, and as far as I know, they do.
On some bikes that's not the case at all.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:37 PM   #76938
BlueLghtning
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Newnan, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ketur View Post
I just found out previous owner put rear axle in the wrong direction. Nut is on left side. I don't think this is catastrophic but I'm finding a rather large handful of funny things on this bike. Also I'd say the rear axle was torqued to about 20ft lbs... Thank goodness for cotter pins...
The axle being put in the opposite direction isn't hurting a thing. In fact on some bikes, like the old TL1000, this was a popular switch as it helped keep the axle tight against the adjusters while you tightened it down. Running it the factory installed way, usually had the axle sliding back away from the adjusters and you had to loosen and start over again. Since the DR650 has the pre-notched axle adjuster plates, this probably isn't as a big of an issue, but it really doesn't hurt anything either way.

Axle nut lose, yeah that can be a problem though.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:40 PM   #76939
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
If anyone is interested, I've posted the dyno sheet for my DR: LINK
Unfortunately no CO traces.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:41 PM   #76940
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
I don't know if Factor Pro and Dynojet, jet sizes are comparable.
They're not.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:46 PM   #76941
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I ordered a Needle Jet for a DR650 locally and got the nickel plated Y5-M instead of our brass Y5.
Aha. So that brings up the question of why Suzuki would go to a nickel-plated emulsion tube.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:51 PM   #76942
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I was getting occasional pinking on 95.
And we have another one.

To clarify, this is 95 RON rather than 95 (R+M)/2, right?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:56 PM   #76943
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Usually pinging means you're on the lean side of stoichometic combustion for a given compression ratio and timing advance.
Not necessarily.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:02 PM   #76944
eakins
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Noticed the latest Motor Cyclist mag where Mark Cook wrote an editorial about his DR. Goes on to say how much he spent on it via ProCycle mods :-)
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:02 PM   #76945
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
The mixture screw flows fuel at all throttle openings and wastes some fuel doing so. Tim nails the explanation below.
While that's technically correct, the difference is greater the more the throttle is closed and therefore the higher the vacuum that is trying to suck fuel past the exposed area adjacent to the tip of the screw. At WOT a fuel screw adjustment may or may not be detectable at all as a change in CO%.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:05 PM   #76946
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I found by leaning out my mixture screw (pilot fuel screw?), my overall MPG went up from about 46 MPG up close to 50 MPG. My idle is just a tiny bit lumpy but worth it for the improved MPG.
Part throttle should be tuned with the responsible circuits, not with the fuel screw.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:06 PM   #76947
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Part throttle should be tuned with the responsible circuits, not with the fuel screw.

Regards,

Derek
I was not tuning it for part throttle. I was tuning it at Idle/shut throttle ... I was wasting fuel on the over run (like shutting off coming into corners).
Leaning out produced a significant increase in fuel economy.

As you stated above, on the over run with shut throttle, vacuum is increased, sucking fuel past fuel screw needle. YMMV.
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:11 PM   #76948
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I was wasting fuel on the over run (like shutting off coming into corners).
Thanks for clarifying.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:27 PM   #76949
TUCKERS
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
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I did Colleen's DR Neutral safety mod today. YES...the Phillips screws were barely hand tight.

I replaced them with drilled stainless socket head Allens, blue Loctite AND safety wire. I would have just left it off but she likes the green light.

DON'T OVER LOOK YOUR NEUTRAL SAFETY GUYS, IT COULD BE A DISASTER.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:04 PM   #76950
Burnt Toast
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Location: Greensboro, NC
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Throttle sticking

So, over the last few rides my throttle started sticking a little, then a lot. Today it won't return on it's own. I took it apart and cleaned the bar which had some crud and rough spots on it. I used some fine sandpaper and sanded it until smooth. Put the throttle body on without cable and housing...smooth. Each of the cables moved pretty freely with good spring tension on throttle cable. I lubed the cables while I was there. Reassembled...dragging again. I took the housing off and held the cables with my hand and turned the throttle...smooth. I assembled the housing with the throttle body off of the bar...smooth.

It seems that the housing is putting the assembly in a slight bind. I can't find any spots that appear to be rubbing, but it acts like it is. No crashes or bump-ups. Bike has only been used on the street since I owned it.

Thoughts?
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