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Old 05-22-2013, 07:55 PM   #76936
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Cables at bad angles.

Which I never mind since I ride a lot of street, and have bikes do that since 1993. If I want more throttle I turn it, and if I want less - I still turn it. If I want to take my hand off of the throttle and stretch that arm, or ride with no hands and stretch my torso ... I'm free to do so.

But I understand why any dirt bike or bike ridden off road should have a snappy return throttle.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:42 PM   #76937
Carl Childers
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Northern New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ketur View Post
I'm dreading this work, specifically removing the clutch basket and the complications that come from that. I'm probably going to end up trying to yank the thing out and be done with it... unless I can't get that upper screw anyhow.
With a little patience it can be done with the basket on. I switched my phillips head screws over to allen heads with no problem leaving the basket in place. I think if you do a search I think you'll find about 40% of us have done it that way.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:42 PM   #76938
Chill
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Location: QLD Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideAlongAtlas1 View Post
I've been using 91 octane. Do you reckon if I went higher it'll help? What is 'pinking'? Cheers
I'd avoid the 91 in Australia these days as most 91 octane brands seem to be E10.
Try a tank of 95, see if it's better. I had a look at some receipt I had of my first few fills. Starting with a full tank, I got 193km = 8.12L to fill it back up and 129 - 6.83L to fill it back up. Maybe the standard fuel tap (petcock) is going onto reserve at 8L instead of when you've only got 1L left.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:45 PM   #76939
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
So, over the last few rides my throttle started sticking a little, then a lot. Today it won't return on it's own. I took it apart and cleaned the bar which had some crud and rough spots on it. I used some fine sandpaper and sanded it until smooth. Put the throttle body on without cable and housing...smooth. Each of the cables moved pretty freely with good spring tension on throttle cable. I lubed the cables while I was there. Reassembled...dragging again. I took the housing off and held the cables with my hand and turned the throttle...smooth. I assembled the housing with the throttle body off of the bar...smooth.

It seems that the housing is putting the assembly in a slight bind. I can't find any spots that appear to be rubbing, but it acts like it is. No crashes or bump-ups. Bike has only been used on the street since I owned it.

Thoughts?
One of the best wheelies I ever walked was after spending the night next to a campfire after spending the day tipping over in a riverbed (bike died every time it saw water, at the most inopportune moments). Everything on the bike was full of sand. Once we got out, we rode through the Memorial Day camp sight. Guys walked up and said "Are you the guys that spent the night on the Muddy?" Yep, that was us. As I rode away on the single track, I popped a wheelie. Much to my surprise it was the 'perfect storm'. Hit the balance point, coasted, rolled the throttle on and off as needed. The sand filled throttle was under my complete control. Sure wish I could do that on the DR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ketur View Post
I'm dreading this work, specifically removing the clutch basket and the complications that come from that. I'm probably going to end up trying to yank the thing out and be done with it... unless I can't get that upper screw anyhow.
Don't be afraid, we'll talk you through it. Just be patient and don't force anything. When I forgot to plug in my NSU after removing the shock, the bike wouldn't idle in neutral on the kickstand. That sucked. This is a life lesson and you want to learn it now. Patience: It might even save your marriage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
Bike has only been used on the street since I owned it.

Thoughts?
What year, how many miles?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-22-2013 at 08:51 PM
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:49 PM   #76940
Chill
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Location: QLD Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
And we have another one.

To clarify, this is 95 RON rather than 95 (R+M)/2, right?

Regards,

Derek
Not sure what I'm another one of? I assume it is RON. I have only ever seen RON at the pump, I have not seen or heard of (R+M/2) before. In Australia many brands of 91 are now E10 (10% Ethanol) so are generally avoided. Some better info here http://www.bp.com/retail/liveassets/...nd_PowerV2.pdf
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:57 PM   #76941
GSF1200S
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I don't know what your experience level is, I'm not trying to talk down to you or scare you.

I just did my CCT gasket last week, I don't even have the pipe back on yet. Some bits: If you decide to use RTV instead of fighting with gasket removal, you don't have to take anything off to remove the CCT. Is it easy, nope, but can be done. Why would you want to do that? The two bolts holding my exhaust manifold to the head were tight. If one breaks, you'll have to deal with getting the broken bolt out of the head. So I decided to WD-40 the bolts and let them sit overnight. I squirted the seam between the flange and the head, flushed it good so the WD could wick up the threads overnight. My point is, if your pipe hasn't been removed recently, hose it down tonight. Both bolts went off like gunshots when I removed them.

If you decide to remove and replace the gasket, the pipe and oil lines have to come off so you can get in to scrape. I used Permatex Gasket Remover but it was painfully slow. Although I don't like using power anything on an alum gasket surface; I used a 2" Roloc on an air grinder to get the worst of the gasket off, that gasket is stuck. You can re-use the washers on the banjo fittings, worse case is they'll seep a tiny bit of oil until you can get new washers.

Another potential problem: in the photo with the screwdriver stuck in the CCT, the handle is exactly where the pipe lives. You'll need a pretty short screwdriver in order to fit in the end of the CCT to release the plunger.

Good luck, let us know how it went.

In this photo with the pipe off you can see that the CCT will clear the starter and bracket that fastens the end of the clutch cable, if you choose to use RTV. (which may have to cure overnight ??)
Totally didnt take it as condescending or trying to scare me. I would consider myself "reasonably proficient" with the DR having taken most of it apart at one point or another, though most of my experience is with older cars. Biggest problem isnt that im not comfortable doing the job- its that I have a "on-the-road" toolkit and not my entire tool collection available.

I might try an RTV (ultra black oil resistant sound good?) solution and see if it holds. Mine is leaking pretty bad, and will certainly require a good bit of rag, qtip and carb cleaner cleaning at this point. Do I just try and goop the shit on as accurately as possible with the header in the way? I know what you mean about pulling header bolts as I had a bit of a nightmare with my Bandit replacing its header. I wonder how much a shop would charge to do this?
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:02 PM   #76942
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ketur View Post
I'm dreading this work, specifically removing the clutch basket and the complications that come from that. I'm probably going to end up trying to yank the thing out and be done with it... unless I can't get that upper screw anyhow.
I hear you, but really it isnt that bad. Rather than trying to snake the bolts out, I just removed the clutch basket. Good thing to know how to do- if you ever need to replace a clutch it will save you tons of money in labor. There isnt really much you can mess up- just take pictures as you take it apart. You can usually slide the fibers/metals off all at once and set them down. Getting the clutch basket nut off is as easy as fifth gear+ rear brake, and thats really it. It sounds bad but its really not- I dreaded it too
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:10 PM   #76943
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 976
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
I did Colleen's DR Neutral safety mod today. YES...the Phillips screws were barely hand tight.

I replaced them with drilled stainless socket head Allens, blue Loctite AND safety wire. I would have just left it off but she likes the green light.

DON'T OVER LOOK YOUR NEUTRAL SAFETY GUYS, IT COULD BE A DISASTER.
I would like to add to check the Primary Nut while in there. In my case, the NSU screws were so tight I had to use an impact driver to get them off (almost decided to just leave them). There was no loctite or anything on them, so i guess it was just tightened properly from the factory.

On the other hand, the primary nut was nowhere near the proper torque. Pretty sure in a few thousand miles it would have vibrated off. Another cat on DRriders had the same deal with his. Both are pretty easy to check...
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:19 PM   #76944
joexr
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: S.E.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
just a couple of quick questions to the collective knowledge pool; will the stock chain guide work with a 47t rear sprocket? and do the powerbomb header pipes have any special technology inside that little expansion chamber, or is it just that, an empty expansion chamber?
It's a straight tube through the Powerbomb with holes punched in it.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:32 PM   #76945
GSF1200S
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
just a couple of quick questions to the collective knowledge pool; will the stock chain guide work with a 47t rear sprocket? and do the powerbomb header pipes have any special technology inside that little expansion chamber, or is it just that, an empty expansion chamber?
According to Jesse at Keintech, the 48 he sells in 525 will work with the stock chain guide. I wanted his chain guide so it would stand up to rocks a little better, and he clarified that I knew I didnt need his chain guide to use the 48 tooth rear sprocket.

It is good I got his though- pretty sure I would have destroyed the stocker judging by the damage done to his after playing around in moab.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:01 PM   #76946
ER70S-2
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Totally didnt take it as condescending or trying to scare me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I would consider myself "reasonably proficient" with the DR having taken most of it apart at one point or another, though most of my experience is with older cars.
Gottit. When I was 14, my Mom blew up the engine in our flathead Ford (1949 maybe). I removed that engine with the few tools I had and an Elcar fence post to lever it out onto the lawn. Note to self: don't kill Mon's lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Biggest problem isn't that im not comfortable doing the job- its that I have a "on-the-road" toolkit and not my entire tool collection available.
I'd be out of line to suggest this, but I will anyway. Push the bike to Procycle and let them know you're 'one of us'. I'm bettin' Jeff will help you, one way or another. (Nope, I wouldn't do that either: BUT, yer on the road and WE gotta stick together. ) (says the guy with 15k miles of day rides last summer)

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I might try an RTV (ultra black oil resistant sound good?) solution and see if it holds.
I can't answer this question with any experience. But if I was 'on the road', there's no way I'd F*** with getting the gasket off the cylinder!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Mine is leaking pretty bad, and will certainly require a good bit of rag, qtip and carb cleaner cleaning at this point. Do I just try and goop the shit on as accurately as possible with the header in the way?
Sometime recently here, I read that a normal tire tube would/could deal with petrochemicals (oil ). Knowing (thinking) that, the first thing I'd try is to cut a gasket from an innertube (available at your nearest cycle shop; Procycle fer instance. Hiya Jeff ).EDIT: they used a tube for the petcock gasket which is a nasty environment too. But it isn't HOT. A piece of tube might just melt on the cylinder. Your q-tip and carb cleaner should work fine. There is room to do that, just removing the CCT. It is tight, but just takes patience (one flat at a time on the two allen head bolts. One of my biggest weaknesses is asking for help, but there are a whole lot of folks here that want nothing more than to help other riders; especially those that are doing rides that we can only dream of.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I know what you mean about pulling header bolts as I had a bit of a nightmare with my Bandit replacing its header.
Yeppers
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I wonder how much a shop would charge to do this?
I have become a Procycle 'fanboy'. Get to them and tell 'em I sent ya. (well, ok, so I'm delusional )
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2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-23-2013 at 07:33 AM
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:12 PM   #76947
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
So, over the last few rides my throttle started sticking a little, then a lot. Today it won't return on it's own. I took it apart and cleaned the bar which had some crud and rough spots on it. I used some fine sandpaper and sanded it until smooth. Put the throttle body on without cable and housing...smooth. Each of the cables moved pretty freely with good spring tension on throttle cable. I lubed the cables while I was there. Reassembled...dragging again. I took the housing off and held the cables with my hand and turned the throttle...smooth. I assembled the housing with the throttle body off of the bar...smooth.

It seems that the housing is putting the assembly in a slight bind. I can't find any spots that appear to be rubbing, but it acts like it is. No crashes or bump-ups. Bike has only been used on the street since I owned it.

Thoughts?
It's probably your routing. Your tank is most likely partly trapping the cables along the frame rail. You have to stack them ... one cable over the other, IIRC. I think they like to go on the LEFT side of the frame rail, very carefully routed, in a specific way. Alternate routes may bind or bind when bars are turned left or right.

My IMS tank can trap the cables if proper routing is not done. Not sure on the stock tank, never had it on this bike. My original throttle cables have 50,000 on them. Still smooth, no binding or wear that I can feel or see.
Take everything off and have a GOOD, CLOSE LOOK at everything. Many look, but don't see.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:15 PM   #76948
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Not sure what I'm another one of?
Another DR650 engine that pings.
Quote:
I assume it is RON. I have only ever seen RON at the pump, I have not seen or heard of (R+M/2) before.
Thanks for clarifying. (R+M/2) is the standard in the US, and the numbers are not comparable to RON.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:16 PM   #76949
TUCKERS
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 11,625
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
I did Colleen's DR Neutral safety mod today. YES...the Phillips screws were barely hand tight.

I replaced them with drilled stainless socket head Allens, blue Loctite AND safety wire. I would have just left it off but she likes the green light.

DON'T OVER LOOK YOUR NEUTRAL SAFETY GUYS, IT COULD BE A DISASTER.

Easy to take out and replace with clutch in situ. You just heat up and bend a Philips screwdriver about half inch from the tip to approx. 45 degrees, that gets the top screw out.
Then heat up and bend a long Allen key...ball end is best..same thing.

I drilled my Allens for safety wire..it's a liitle finicky putting the wire in the top bolt but nothing you can't do in five minutes and some long....long nose pliers. I even put blue Loctite on too!
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:40 PM   #76950
bluegroove
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Hmm... guess I better lean my bike on its side and pull off the clutch cover soon...

Anyway... SKID PLATE NOISE was mentioned a while back. Well I tried doing the silicone thing on my KTM 380 plate and it really helped. Very noticeable improvement. I plan to do it to the DR also.

You get a tube of high temp gasket maker silicone from the autoparts store.

Squeeze out the whole dang thing on the top of the skid plate (removed from bike of course) and spread a thin layer all over it with putty knife. I think I had it about 2 - 3 mm thick. Let dry overnight. Reassemble. Well worth it for me. Try to get black silicone so it doesn't look weird. Keep it very thin right by the mounting spots.
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