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Old 05-22-2013, 08:19 PM   #76936
joexr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
just a couple of quick questions to the collective knowledge pool; will the stock chain guide work with a 47t rear sprocket? and do the powerbomb header pipes have any special technology inside that little expansion chamber, or is it just that, an empty expansion chamber?
It's a straight tube through the Powerbomb with holes punched in it.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:32 PM   #76937
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
just a couple of quick questions to the collective knowledge pool; will the stock chain guide work with a 47t rear sprocket? and do the powerbomb header pipes have any special technology inside that little expansion chamber, or is it just that, an empty expansion chamber?
According to Jesse at Keintech, the 48 he sells in 525 will work with the stock chain guide. I wanted his chain guide so it would stand up to rocks a little better, and he clarified that I knew I didnt need his chain guide to use the 48 tooth rear sprocket.

It is good I got his though- pretty sure I would have destroyed the stocker judging by the damage done to his after playing around in moab.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:01 PM   #76938
ER70S-2
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Totally didnt take it as condescending or trying to scare me.
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I would consider myself "reasonably proficient" with the DR having taken most of it apart at one point or another, though most of my experience is with older cars.
Gottit. When I was 14, my Mom blew up the engine in our flathead Ford (1949 maybe). I removed that engine with the few tools I had and an Elcar fence post to lever it out onto the lawn. Note to self: don't kill Mon's lawn.
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Biggest problem isn't that im not comfortable doing the job- its that I have a "on-the-road" toolkit and not my entire tool collection available.
I'd be out of line to suggest this, but I will anyway. Push the bike to Procycle and let them know you're 'one of us'. I'm bettin' Jeff will help you, one way or another. (Nope, I wouldn't do that either: BUT, yer on the road and WE gotta stick together. ) (says the guy with 15k miles of day rides last summer)

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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I might try an RTV (ultra black oil resistant sound good?) solution and see if it holds.
I can't answer this question with any experience. But if I was 'on the road', there's no way I'd F*** with getting the gasket off the cylinder!!!
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Mine is leaking pretty bad, and will certainly require a good bit of rag, qtip and carb cleaner cleaning at this point. Do I just try and goop the shit on as accurately as possible with the header in the way?
Sometime recently here, I read that a normal tire tube would/could deal with petrochemicals (oil ). Knowing (thinking) that, the first thing I'd try is to cut a gasket from an innertube (available at your nearest cycle shop; Procycle fer instance. Hiya Jeff ).EDIT: they used a tube for the petcock gasket which is a nasty environment too. But it isn't HOT. A piece of tube might just melt on the cylinder. Your q-tip and carb cleaner should work fine. There is room to do that, just removing the CCT. It is tight, but just takes patience (one flat at a time on the two allen head bolts. One of my biggest weaknesses is asking for help, but there are a whole lot of folks here that want nothing more than to help other riders; especially those that are doing rides that we can only dream of.
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I know what you mean about pulling header bolts as I had a bit of a nightmare with my Bandit replacing its header.
Yeppers
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I wonder how much a shop would charge to do this?
I have become a Procycle 'fanboy'. Get to them and tell 'em I sent ya. (well, ok, so I'm delusional )
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-23-2013 at 06:33 AM
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:12 PM   #76939
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
So, over the last few rides my throttle started sticking a little, then a lot. Today it won't return on it's own. I took it apart and cleaned the bar which had some crud and rough spots on it. I used some fine sandpaper and sanded it until smooth. Put the throttle body on without cable and housing...smooth. Each of the cables moved pretty freely with good spring tension on throttle cable. I lubed the cables while I was there. Reassembled...dragging again. I took the housing off and held the cables with my hand and turned the throttle...smooth. I assembled the housing with the throttle body off of the bar...smooth.

It seems that the housing is putting the assembly in a slight bind. I can't find any spots that appear to be rubbing, but it acts like it is. No crashes or bump-ups. Bike has only been used on the street since I owned it.

Thoughts?
It's probably your routing. Your tank is most likely partly trapping the cables along the frame rail. You have to stack them ... one cable over the other, IIRC. I think they like to go on the LEFT side of the frame rail, very carefully routed, in a specific way. Alternate routes may bind or bind when bars are turned left or right.

My IMS tank can trap the cables if proper routing is not done. Not sure on the stock tank, never had it on this bike. My original throttle cables have 50,000 on them. Still smooth, no binding or wear that I can feel or see.
Take everything off and have a GOOD, CLOSE LOOK at everything. Many look, but don't see.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:15 PM   #76940
motolab
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Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Not sure what I'm another one of?
Another DR650 engine that pings.
Quote:
I assume it is RON. I have only ever seen RON at the pump, I have not seen or heard of (R+M/2) before.
Thanks for clarifying. (R+M/2) is the standard in the US, and the numbers are not comparable to RON.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:16 PM   #76941
TUCKERS
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Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
I did Colleen's DR Neutral safety mod today. YES...the Phillips screws were barely hand tight.

I replaced them with drilled stainless socket head Allens, blue Loctite AND safety wire. I would have just left it off but she likes the green light.

DON'T OVER LOOK YOUR NEUTRAL SAFETY GUYS, IT COULD BE A DISASTER.

Easy to take out and replace with clutch in situ. You just heat up and bend a Philips screwdriver about half inch from the tip to approx. 45 degrees, that gets the top screw out.
Then heat up and bend a long Allen key...ball end is best..same thing.

I drilled my Allens for safety wire..it's a liitle finicky putting the wire in the top bolt but nothing you can't do in five minutes and some long....long nose pliers. I even put blue Loctite on too!
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:40 PM   #76942
bluegroove
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Hmm... guess I better lean my bike on its side and pull off the clutch cover soon...

Anyway... SKID PLATE NOISE was mentioned a while back. Well I tried doing the silicone thing on my KTM 380 plate and it really helped. Very noticeable improvement. I plan to do it to the DR also.

You get a tube of high temp gasket maker silicone from the autoparts store.

Squeeze out the whole dang thing on the top of the skid plate (removed from bike of course) and spread a thin layer all over it with putty knife. I think I had it about 2 - 3 mm thick. Let dry overnight. Reassemble. Well worth it for me. Try to get black silicone so it doesn't look weird. Keep it very thin right by the mounting spots.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:11 AM   #76943
Chill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Another DR650 engine that pings.Thanks for clarifying. (R+M/2) is the standard in the US, and the numbers are not comparable to RON.

Regards,

Derek
OK, thanks, that makes sense. I only have experience of the UK and Oz. Both RON. I have heard that in New Zealand the RON rating is given as a maximum rather than a minimum which makes any fuel selection completely pointless..

I found this on another site....
approximate comparison chart, these numbers can vary by as much as 2 grades

RON MON (R+M)/2
90 83 86.6
92 85 88.5
95 87 91
96 88 92
98 90 94
100 91.5 95.8
105 95 100
110 99 104.5
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:16 AM   #76944
greer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Easy to take out and replace with clutch in situ. You just heat up and bend a Philips screwdriver about half inch from the tip to approx. 45 degrees, that gets the top screw out.
Then heat up and bend a long Allen key...ball end is best..same thing.

I drilled my Allens for safety wire..it's a liitle finicky putting the wire in the top bolt but nothing you can't do in five minutes and some long....long nose pliers. I even put blue Loctite on too!
We've done 3 and never messed with the clutch. We use one of those cheapo S-shaped screwdrivers with just a hair ground off the top. I've read some folks just use a bit out of a screwdriver kit. We used blue locktite and didn't worry with wire. Note to folks: Take out and address ONE SCREW AT A TIME. That sucker is spring-loaded and will come plumb apart on you.

Sarah
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:28 AM   #76945
Slideways#96
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Location: Northern NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Easy to take out and replace with clutch in situ. You just heat up and bend a Philips screwdriver about half inch from the tip to approx. 45 degrees, that gets the top screw out.
Then heat up and bend a long Allen key...ball end is best..same thing.

I drilled my Allens for safety wire..it's a liitle finicky putting the wire in the top bolt but nothing you can't do in five minutes and some long....long nose pliers. I even put blue Loctite on too!
What size allen's used? Need to do this fix myself. Will try the s shaped Phillips...

Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:02 AM   #76946
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
According to Jesse at Keintech, the 48 he sells in 525 will work with the stock chain guide. I wanted his chain guide so it would stand up to rocks a little better, and he clarified that I knew I didnt need his chain guide to use the 48 tooth rear sprocket.

It is good I got his though- pretty sure I would have destroyed the stocker judging by the damage done to his after playing around in moab.
awesome, that means i can save some money and stick with the stock one. 120 000km now and never torn it off so im still happy with how this one works. then again ive never ridden moab, so maybe one day ill need a new one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joexr View Post
It's a straight tube through the Powerbomb with holes punched in it.
thankyou sir. means we can try our hand at making one here in Malaysia. one of the local guys wants to fit one to the cafe racer hes about to start building but they dont exist for an '83 gsx 250.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:23 AM   #76947
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
..........
I remembered where someone used an innertube as a gasket that surprised me. It was for the fuel petcock. Using it for a CCT may very well melt it to the cylinder. Not one of my better recalled memories. I'll make this point in my original post.
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2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-23-2013 at 06:35 AM
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:33 AM   #76948
kbuckey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
We've done 3 and never messed with the clutch. We use one of those cheapo S-shaped screwdrivers with just a hair ground off the top. I've read some folks just use a bit out of a screwdriver kit. We used blue locktite and didn't worry with wire. Note to folks: Take out and address ONE SCREW AT A TIME. That sucker is spring-loaded and will come plumb apart on you.

Sarah
I just used a bit. My kit has a little ratchet that fits over the bit so it was no big deal to get the top screw out. I did, however, go whole hog and put in titanium (gotta save some weight!) hex bolts and safety wired them in when I put them back. Oh, the bottom screw was found on my magnetic drain plug!
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:38 AM   #76949
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
What size allen's used? Need to do this fix myself. Will try the s shaped Phillips...

Thanks!
The factory screws are 5mm x 15mm x .8 pitch

Thanks to 2laneblacktop:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=26847
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2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:48 AM   #76950
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab
Unfortunately no CO traces.

Regards,

Derek
Yes Derek, you knew that. I told you I was having no luck finding a bike dyno, in Chicago-land, with CO tracing. What was I supposed to do?
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