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Old 05-28-2013, 06:15 AM   #77116
Carl Childers
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Location: Northern New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ketur View Post
Well I just discovered very leaky fork seals on my new-to-me DR650. I've never changed out fork seals before but there's a first time for everything I suppose. The DR has clearly been down more than once, and with a "notchy" feeling in the front suspension, I wonder if the forks have been bent...

I hope replacing the seals/bushings fixes all problems, otherwise I may have discovered one of the many reasons the previous owner decided to get rid of it, haha.
Doing the fork seals will give you a good chance to check out your front end pieces and to do a careful reassembly of the forks to get optimum performance out of them.

All fairly easy if you follow the manual and a good opportunity to upgrade to intiminators or RT's gold valves emulators if you want a bit more performance out of it.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:43 AM   #77117
yooperbikemike
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Joined: Apr 2003
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Picked up a 2003 on Saturday after looking for the last couple years. Very, VERY clean (like never ridden in the dirt or on rainy days clean) with ~11k miles on it. I changed all the fluids (BF looked like it was OEM) and hooked up a charging lead for a battery tender. Not planning on modding it much except to fit some sort of rack and its in dire need of new tires. Don't think I'll mount the 11 y.o. OEM Trail Wings that the seller threw in...
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:50 AM   #77118
SCExpat
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Caldwell, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I had the same thing happen

Two recent threads of interest for you:

http://drriders.com/topic8323.html

You may be able to see the notch out of my windshield there on the left side of the picture (about where the cables are behind the shield) from the brake master cylinder.

Beyond hard-mounting it (using 1955 Chevy motor mounts), I asked about braces (Since my Suzuki fairing still flexes at speeds above 70 MPH - which is better than it was before i hard-mounted it!) and a few suggestions were made in this thread:

http://drriders.com/topic3252-10.html
Thanks for the links. I like the Ram mount idea.....but then I might as well use the Slipstream I have. I just wanted something that was "plug and ride". I did not expect I would have to come up with some supports just to make the screen work.
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:17 AM   #77119
Mambo Dave
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Location: Pompano Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCExpat View Post
Thanks for the links. I like the Ram mount idea.....but then I might as well use the Slipstream I have. I just wanted something that was "plug and ride". I did not expect I would have to come up with some supports just to make the screen work.
Yeah.

I mean, I guess my Laminar would "work" just fine if I was touring around back roads at 55 MPH or slower. (With the way it is mounted now, maybe even 65 or slower - and it still reduces the wind blast up to 85 or more as it is.)

And if I ever get to live in a place like that where I could ride 30 to 55 all day and enjoy myself, I will have finally 'made it' in life I guess

But for now I chose the bike I wanted, and a windscreen that was cheap. I could have paid more for a better mounted windscreen, but at the time I wasn't sure of what I wanted on the bike.

Anyone have any suggestions other than me moving back to Pennsylvania for the two-lane roads around there?

Surely some western states have some great networks of roads that don't require high speeds - so that my windshield will be ideal.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:13 AM   #77120
ketur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Doing the fork seals will give you a good chance to check out your front end pieces and to do a careful reassembly of the forks to get optimum performance out of them.

All fairly easy if you follow the manual and a good opportunity to upgrade to intiminators or RT's gold valves emulators if you want a bit more performance out of it.
I literally can't find any info about what to do if a fork is bent. I'll be able to confirm it later today but the mystery is preventing me from sleeping.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:22 AM   #77121
bobzilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ketur View Post
I literally can't find any info about what to do if a fork is bent. I'll be able to confirm it later today but the mystery is preventing me from sleeping.
Go on e bay and buy the front end off a 06 KXF. press out the stock steering stem and then press it into the kxf tripples.... waaaalaaa you have good legs on the front of the bike... stops work great but you loose the lock.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:47 AM   #77122
scotteroni
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Hinsdale, NH
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What I did this weekend on my DR650

Just bought a 97 DR650 a week ago but wasnt too keen on the color scheme. I found a guy on Cl locally that was selling a complete tank, plastics, BBQ rack and a Corbin seat for short money for a 2006.

Before:


After:


I didn't strip the bike completely down but I did do a lot of creative things with masking tape and newspaper. I even painted the fork boots until I can get decent replacements. I planned on doing the needle mod and adjust pilot screw while I had the tank off but some of the screws were giving me trouble and I just wanted to get the bike buttoned up and get to riding. Love this bike!
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:55 AM   #77123
Bronco638
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR Pike
Hi DR riders,
I Have a few questions for you,
Here is the situation.
I have a new (to me) 09 Dr650 with 30k (km) on the clock. Previous owner provided receipts of full service done in last couple of months.
It has a dynojet kit in stock carburettor, which the top cut out of airbox as well as a full staintune system

Ive noticed that under a full hand of throttle from close to idle there is a fair bit of dark smoke coming from exhaust, it's fine when revving from higher in the range, but when from low down ...big cloud of smoke. It also pops, farts and gurgles a lot on decel.

Any thoughts on what it might be? This is my first carb'd bike so don't want to go messing around with anything too much. That stuff is black magic!

Cheers
Pikey

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando
...and hoodoo and voodoo.

'Sounds like you're a bit rich on the open throttle.

You can make adjustments to the BST40 carb by simply removing the seat and fueltank, loosening the clamps on the carb boots, and rotating the carb to access the top or bottom. Be mindful of the cables.

First, make sure that your pilot jet is stock size. Does the bike pull harder in 2nd or 3rd at 3/4-7/8 throttle, or harder at WOT? If it doesn't pull it's hardest at WOT, try going a size or two smaller on the main jet. Once you have the main jet size dialed, try moving the clip up on the needle a slot. You want it as high on the needle as you can go without seeing negative effects on the driveability. Once the main jet and needle clip are dialed, adjust the idle-mix screw. An extended idle-mix screw REALLY helps here.

Consult the service manual, the online BST40 Bible, or some of the carb-parts vendors for pics/diagrams of where these carb parts are at.
IIRC, doesn't the DynoJet kit come with jets with different nomenclature (markings)? You may want to be careful that you're using the right jets and the right jet sizes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scotteroni
Just bought a 97 DR650 a week ago but wasn't too keen on the color scheme. I found a guy on Cl locally that was selling a complete tank, plastics, BBQ rack and a Corbin seat for short money. ($350)

Before:


After:


I didn't strip the bike completely down but I did do a lot of creative things with masking tape and newspaper. I even painted the fork boots until I can get decent replacements. I planned on doing the needle mod and adjust pilot screw while I had the tank off but some of the screws were giving me trouble and I just wanted to get the bike buttoned up and get to riding. Love this bike!
I did the exact same thing to my '97 DR. But, I took the whole thing apart and had the frame powder coated (Honda silver). We share the same taste in color schemes. Blue DRs are the fastest anyways...... Nicely done.
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:48 PM   #77124
Carl Childers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ketur View Post
I literally can't find any info about what to do if a fork is bent. I'll be able to confirm it later today but the mystery is preventing me from sleeping.
You have a good chance that nothing is bent simply misaligned which careful reassembly procedure cures. Fork tubes can be checked for straightness on a flat surface using a feeler gauge between the tube and the surface as tube gets rolled on that surface. Most often a bent tube is fairly easy to spot with the naked eye. If one of the tubes is bent I'd replace it. Once you have established that the tubes are straight mount them in the triple trees and see that they run parallel on all planes if not you have a bent tree which can be straightened by a practiced hand if not too bad, a novice would be better off replacing the triple tree.

Again unless there has been a severe front impact don't lose sight of the fact that there is probably nothing bent, only binding from misalignment.
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:51 PM   #77125
acesandeights
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You can check straightness with a straight edge. Take a ruler and lay it along the tube every 90-degrees around the tube in a few places. You'd probably have other noticeable issues if the forks were bent.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:10 PM   #77126
ram1000
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You can also have fork tubes straightened with a press.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:20 PM   #77127
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
You have a good chance that nothing is bent simply misaligned which careful reassembly procedure cures. Fork tubes can be checked for straightness on a flat surface using a feeler gauge between the tube and the surface as tube gets rolled on that surface. Most often a bent tube is fairly easy to spot with the naked eye. If one of the tubes is bent I'd replace it. Once you have established that the tubes are straight mount them in the triple trees and see that they run parallel on all planes if not you have a bent tree which can be straightened by a practiced hand if not too bad, a novice would be better off replacing the triple tree.

Again unless there has been a severe front impact don't lose sight of the fact that there is probably nothing bent, only binding from misalignment.
Excellent comments!
Also, don't ignore your rubber mounted handle bars. These too can fool you, acting like bent fork tubes or bent handlebars. The Bars are rubber mounted. Bolts extend down through the bottom bar clamp, down through the TOP triple clamp. The Rubber bushings are under the upper triple. In a fall, if the bars hit on the ground, they can be tweaked. This will have the bike going down the road crooked (bars crooked). A simple PUSH on opposite lock will straighten them out. Go against the stop and push. Ride to check if true or not. Adjust as needed.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 05-28-2013 at 07:54 PM
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:08 PM   #77128
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Oh the joys of DR650 Ownership!

Tonight I set out to change the engine oil in my DR and after all the work of going for a nice 1/2 hour ride to get the oil warm, and putting a pan under the engine and pulling the drain plug then letting gravity takes its course, I thought about how much work I used to have to do to change the oil on my BMW R1150GS.
  1. Go for a ride to warm up oil
  2. Put bike on centre stand
  3. Remove seat
  4. Disconnect fuel lines
  5. Disconnect wiring to fuel pump
  6. Remove fuel tank (Why did I just fill it?)
  7. Remove front engine guard bolts
  8. Remove four bottom engine guard bolts
  9. Take bike off centre stand or else engine bash plate won't come off
  10. Remove engine guard
  11. Remove engine bash plate
  12. Put bike back on centre stand
  13. Remove oil filter
  14. Remove engine drain plug
  15. Go lie down for a while after all that work, to give oil time to drain.
Yikes!

And that doesn't even take into account the transmission oil, the final drive oil, etc!

Even more recently when I had a F800GS, it was a lot less work but I still had to completely remove the engine bash plate to get to the drain plug and oil filter...

I am SO glad I now have a DR650!
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:10 PM   #77129
ketur
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Going to stop working on the forks for now, but all is looking good so far; bushings are worn as predicted but I have replacements. I haven't checked if the forks are bent but one guy at Procycle convinced me it takes a lot more force than some drops in the woods to bend a fork. They moved freely once I had them off the wheel, too. I'm not worried about that anymore. The fork tubes came apart quite easily though... I thought that was supposed to take some force. Oh well.

One of the forks has a stripped screw underneath. So mad at how many stripped screws I've found on this bike. Going to look up solutions to this problem... I can only repair one fork right now because of this.

The fork caps were insanely tight too, although maybe that's normal. Either way my hands were starting to be sore from various attemps so I added a little leverage...



And here's a random bonus image of how you know it's time to crack open the forks...


ketur screwed with this post 05-28-2013 at 06:29 PM
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:29 PM   #77130
victor441
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ketur View Post
Going to stop working on the forks for now, but all is looking good so far besides the scoring (more like strange discoloration) where the bushings rested, which were indeed worn out as well (namely the smaller one). I haven't checked if the forks are bent but one guy at Procycle convinced me it takes a lot more force than some drops in the woods to bend a fork. They moved freely once I had them off the wheel, too. I'm not worried about that anymore.

One of the forks has a stripped screw underneath. So mad at how many stripped screws I've found on this bike. Going to look up solutions to this problem... I can only repair one fork right now because of this.

The fork caps were insanely tight too, although maybe that's normal. Either way my hands were starting to be sore from various attemps so I added a little leverage...

And here's a random bonus image of how you know it's time to crack open the forks...

]
Try sliding some 35mm film under the fork seals to clean them before replacing the seals....mine were leaking pretty badly due to mud and that did the trick, no more leaks....I also changed the fork oil soon after that as the film forces the dirt into the forks
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