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Old 05-29-2013, 05:03 PM   #77116
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dresda View Post
I'm trying to compare heated glove liners to heated grips. The Warm N Save glove liners take 11 watts each. The Oxford grips site says they take 4 amps. How to compare? Anyone know?

I ran my Warm N Safe 90W jacket liner (with heat troller running at about 40%) and socks all last weekend in the cold and wind with no problems for the bike. Will a set of grips or gloves tip the balance unfavourably?
W = V x A

so 4 amps @ 12 + v <> 50 W
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Old 05-29-2013, 05:04 PM   #77117
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
.
Thank you!!!
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Old 05-29-2013, 05:10 PM   #77118
dresda
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Location: South Eastern Shore of Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
W = V x A

so 4 amps @ 12 + v <> 50 W
Thanks! I'll go with the liners then! They'll be plugged into the jacket liner too so will also be running at whatever percentage the heatroller is set for so I should be okay....

Hopefully this bike isn't too hard to bump start in an emergency!
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'....and I shall baffle you with cabbages and rhinoceroses in the kitchen, incessant quotations from "Now We Are Six" through the mouthpiece of Lord Snooty's giant, poisoned, electric head. ' from My Pink Half of the Drainpipe by Bonzo Dog Doo Dah Band.
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Old 05-29-2013, 05:22 PM   #77119
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post


Still reckon that?
I love those bash plates, but can't afford one
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Old 05-29-2013, 05:24 PM   #77120
scottbed
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Arlington, MA
Oddometer: 453
Question Mechanic in Boston needed

So, after 2 years of monkeying with the entire intake/exhaust on my bike I am convinced I have a real problem, maybe with the top end or even electrical.

I am looking for a mechanic to help me go through the top end. I would like to work with you if possible nights and/or weekends. Let me know what you want for rate and/or gifts! I only want someone with 4-stroke dirt bike experience, preferably on DR650s. I'd be open to a real shop if anyone knows someone reputable and reasonable and I would just drop it off and pick it up. Reasonable is the key here....if it's too much I'll just sell it and invest the money I'd spend to fix it on a newer year.

Symptoms/Observations:
  • Bad gas mileage, ranges from 30mpg to 45mpg (bad to almost normal, mostly around 39mpg), this started happening the 2nd year after I bought it used in 2009 with 2k on it (it's a 2002)
  • rarely I'll hear a single ping sound (like you hit a musical triangle with a small hammer) - only happens once in a while...usually when I get on the gas - sticky valve?
  • makes good power
  • only needs tiny amount of choke (probably not a problem, maybe idle jet is too large)
  • some type of vibration and/or runs slightly rough up hills some of the time
What I've done:
  • opened air box
  • TM40 carb (cleaned original carb, replaced original carb with OEM, replaced that with a TM40).
  • new exhaust can
  • new air filter
  • honed exhaust header
  • valve adjustment (many times)
  • new plugs
  • brought to mechanic to clean carb and jet properly - didn't fix mileage issue
Thoughts:
  • sticky exhaust valve
  • improperly jetted and/or carb settings like the float. I'm still scared of pinging noise even if this is issue
  • Other top end issue
  • electrical issue with CDI or pickup coils
But I just want to tear down to the cylinder, inspect valves/valve stem seals/seats, inspect cylinder/rings, safety wire NSU screw, inspect clutch, inspect steering head bearings. Maybe more...replace parts as necessary.

I'd like to start this work as soon as possible...riding season is happening now and I'm losing time :). My primary goal is to make sure the bike is up to snuff for a 6 day labor day ride in New Brunswick. I have a 2nd DR (2000) that I might have someone do once over on it if they have time.

I've been riding/racing and working on bikes for a lot of years...I'm not lugging it or riding it incorrectly. I can work on bikes but just don't have the time right now and would really like a more experienced person to help out.

Thanks!
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:02 PM   #77121
8gv
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Clutch cover gasket...

I'm almost done doing my NSU. I was tempted to put the cover on with the old gasket. It looked fine but I want to do the job correctly and I have a new gasket ready to be installed.

I am wondering if Suzuki recommends a gasket sealant on the cover side. On my Kawasaki, per the advice of the service mgr., I put the cover gasket on dry and it has never leaked.

The DR gasket seems to have been adhered to the cover by chemical means. It was a project to remove the old gasket without compromising the sealing surface.

So...

Dry or with gasket sealant?
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:08 PM   #77122
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I'm almost done doing my NSU. I was tempted to put the cover on with the old gasket. It looked fine but I want to do the job correctly and I have a new gasket ready to be installed.

I am wondering if Suzuki recommends a gasket sealant on the cover side. On my Kawasaki, per the advice of the service mgr., I put the cover gasket on dry and it has never leaked.

The DR gasket seems to have been adhered to the cover by chemical means. It was a project to remove the old gasket without compromising the sealing surface.

So...

Dry or with gasket sealant?
A third alternative: I put grease on mine so it won't stick next time I remove the cover. And it's not leaked a drop since then, about two years ago, when I did the NSU on my bike.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:13 PM   #77123
BergDonk
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A light smear of High Temp wheel bearing grease works for me.

If you only do one side, say the engine side, then it'll likely come off cleanly, easily, with the cover next time.

The paper swells a bit with oil, and grease is just oil with a 'carrier', so it will seal OK assembled dry as it soaks some oil in. If there is any minor marks on a surface, the grease will seal that, but not as good as a dedicated sealant.

Any excess grease gets washed into and mixed with your oil, and that's not normally a problem at all.

I generally do this sort of thing prior to an oil change, so any contamination when the engine is open is hopefully flushed out after.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:15 PM   #77124
BergDonk
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And my cover has been off twice, for the NSU job and a replacement clutch, and is still on the original gasket with no weeps or leaks.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:51 PM   #77125
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
And my cover has been off twice, for the NSU job and a replacement clutch, and is still on the original gasket with no weeps or leaks.
I coulda had a v-8

I'm just scratching the surface of experience with this machine. I hope to be able to give advice in the future. For now, I appreciate the help I get here on ADV. Thanks to all!
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:06 PM   #77126
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I'm almost done doing my NSU. I was tempted to put the cover on with the old gasket. It looked fine but I want to do the job correctly and I have a new gasket ready to be installed.

I am wondering if Suzuki recommends a gasket sealant on the cover side. On my Kawasaki, per the advice of the service mgr., I put the cover gasket on dry and it has never leaked.

The DR gasket seems to have been adhered to the cover by chemical means. It was a project to remove the old gasket without compromising the sealing surface.

So...

Dry or with gasket sealant?
Questions raise more questions. How can the old gasket look fine if it was a project to remove it.

My original gasket was fused to the clutch cover. It tried my patience and took hours to remove; even with Permatex Gasket Remover.

A buddy made his living $$$ tinkering with motorcycles, the life many of us would like to succeed at. He greases his KTM () gaskets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I coulda had a v-8.

I'm just scratching the surface of experience with this machine. I hope to be able to give advice in the future. For now, I appreciate the help I get here on ADV. Thanks to all!
That's how it works. Learn, share what ya learn. I started slow and worked my way to here.

Start a word doc. Keep track of the things that puzzle or interest you. When a n00b asks an easy question (to you), answer it. Take pics, everybody loves pics. Nobody loves crappy pics, but they're better than nothing. A camera with good macro capabilities isn't very expensive.

Never argue, be polite. Watch yer spellin', punctuation, and capitalization; it makes you look good (and professional). Even if you're just a normal guy like me. Learn who's who, some know their stuff, others don't. Just because you read something on the net, doesn't make it right. Wait until you see it repeated several times without others calling foul. Keep track of informative links.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-29-2013 at 09:42 PM
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:13 PM   #77127
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Questions raise more questions. How can the old gasket look fine if it was a project to remove it.

My original gasket was fused to the clutch cover. It tried my patience and took hours to remove; even with Permatex Gasket Remover.

A buddy made his living $$$ tinkering with motorcycles, the life many of us would like to succeed at. He greases his KTM () gaskets.
Same here. It came off the crankcase cleanly and required more than an hour to take off the cover.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:02 PM   #77128
LeDakaR!
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Location: route66moto.com San Francisco CA
Oddometer: 437
Bike for sale


In San Francisco
Fly and ride friendly
$4000
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:23 AM   #77129
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 325
Rob, I ordered the Mojave and I am waiting to get my hands on it to install it. I just finished reading the installation manual and the damping adjustment knob is at the bottom of the shock. You can turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust it, according to the manual. How did the installation go? Any hints, comments, etc? I won't have much time to mess with it once it's delivered since I'll be heading to Mexico early June. I guess I'll be making adjustments on the go. Thanks[/QUOTE]

I installed my Mojave and made some initial adjustments on rebound. I've been told you cannot adjust compression, and there is a reply from Rick and Jeff (procycle) regarding this enquiry just recently.

I counted the total amount of clicks I had on rebound from start to finish - 40 clicks in total. i believe I'm 21 or 22 clicks (just over halfway). For me, this soaks up the bumps but doesn't make it too hard either. Definitely a great improvement over stock, as it doesn't bottom out any more. If anything I could go one or two clicks softer!!

And since I have a Safari tank on, filled to the top, the old beasty handles quite well. I also have intiminators in the front. Mojave shock is also very easy to install.
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Currently riding DR650 (2011)
Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod
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Old 05-30-2013, 06:04 AM   #77130
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 325
oxford hotgrips - customer service

I just wanted to say how great the customer service Oxford Heater Grips is (no affiliation whatsoever).

The story goes, I had one heater grip that went on one side. Not sure why this happened however, I was prepared to source another one and pay for it. I mentioned it to Oxford international, and admittedly there was a bit of confusion and some email handling between dealers etc, as they didn't realise which country I was from.

Once that was sorted , they offered to send new handgrips out for free, as I mentioned I'd only purchased within the last 12 months. They said there product shouldn't have failed and they were straight on top of it. I never asked once to claim on warranty or anything like that. They just offered it straight up!! Got them today and will fit the new grips on the weekend.

Great service and good to see distributors going out their way to help out with products they sell.

Thanks to the guys at Ficeda Motorcycle Accessories Australia & Oxford Products USA Inc. who helped get me sorted.
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Currently riding DR650 (2011)
Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod
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