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Old 06-04-2013, 02:11 PM   #77311
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If that's the case, then choosing a DynoJet dyno was not in alignment with your stated purpose.

Regards,

Derek
Only choice in DFW, the other option is to just start inputting numbers pulled out of my ass into the Power Commander. Oh and the tuning was done by this guy on a DJ dyno. I'm sure he has no clue as to what he's doing.

http://www.dragbike.com/dbnews/templ...=5598&zoneid=3
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:29 PM   #77312
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
oh boy it sound like another
just now with which dyno is best.
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:30 PM   #77313
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Plenty of tuned Husaberg 650s with 70+ hp.

Mine with only exhaust and carb tuning is 63 Dynojet Hp at the knobs.
I think the point you are missing is that they stated it made 80 at 4000 rpm. Which is impossible for a naturally aspirated single cylinder engine of only 36 cubic inches. Physics and all; the math doesn't lie.

Is 80 possible-- maybe if you spin the bad boy 10K rpm. And I know how bad my DR shakes at 6K- I don't want another 4K !

Mongle screwed with this post 06-04-2013 at 02:37 PM
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:40 PM   #77314
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I think the point you are missing is that they stated it made 80 at 4000 rpm. Which is impossible for a naturally aspirated single cylinder engine of only 36 cubic inches. Physics and all; the math doesn't lie.

Is 80 possible-- maybe if you spin the bad boy 10K rpm. And I know how bad my DR shakes at 6K- I don't want another 4K !
I wonder how much more power I could have if I could get gasoline without 10% ethanol.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
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..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:44 PM   #77315
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Only choice in DFW, the other option is to just start inputting numbers pulled out of my ass into the Power Commander. Oh and the tuning was done by this guy on a DJ dyno. I'm sure he has no clue as to what he's doing.

http://www.dragbike.com/dbnews/templ...=5598&zoneid=3
Unfortunately Dynojet dynos use O2 sensors for tuning, which is not all that useful. Here's a brief overview:

1) There is no direct relationship between O2 content and AFR.
2) Even when the mixture cannot be improved, O2 content can and does vary from "ideal".
3) The O2 content can be "perfect" while the mixture is way off.
4) There are may factors that affect O2 content, such as bore size, exhaust valve sealing, exhaust leaks, proximity of the sensor to the exhaust outlet, ignition timing, and misfires.
5) There is no single "perfect" O2-derived AFR that is applicable to all engines and all combinations of MAP (or TP) and rpm.
6) An O2 sensor's response time is not zero, meaning that there will be a delay between when an O2 content is produced and when it will be read/displayed.
7) An O2 sensor's response time is not likely to be consistent, meaning that the above mentioned delay will vary (i.e. a simple offset will not work).
8) Changes in pressure affect O2 sensor accuracy (pressures inside exhaust systems fluctuate wildly).
9) Changes in temperature affect O2 sensor accuracy, and a heater cannot respond quickly enough to keep it constant.
10) Changes in input voltage affect O2 sensor accuracy (the better controllers can usually eliminate this problem).
11) In the end, AFR is irrelevant. What is relevant is HP and/or BSFC at a given intersection of MAP (or TP) and rpm.
12) CO% is the strongest indicator of whether or not the mixture strength is such that the engine will produce best HP or BSFC
13) NOx content (as far as gasses go) is the strongest indicator of whether or not the timing is such that the engine will produce best HP or BSFC, and that it is not detonating.
14) O2 is not a tuning gas. O2 is a diagnostic gas. As such, it tells us about problems such as leaky exhaust valves, weak ignition, misfires & stagger issues after having tuned fuel via CO (with the final arbiter being HP or BSFC) and ignition advance via NOX (with the final arbiter being HP or BSFC).

The mixture is about right when the CO is between 3 and 5%. Here is an example of the AFR an O2 sensor-based Dynojet auto-tuning device thinks it achieved and the resultant CO%:




Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 06-08-2013 at 12:01 AM
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:39 PM   #77316
Albie
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All a moot point for me these days as I don't race anymore and I'm not the least bit interested in squeezing out the last ounce of power out of the bikes I have. Heck, even my Gixxer's bone stock and it'll stay that way till I dump it. Besides, the nearest tuner to where I live now is 210 miles away, and he uses one if those DJ dyno's.
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:42 PM   #77317
exoff-roadgoat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post

Be hard to do with the clutch in place using the bent screwdriver trick.
It came out easy but with goop on the treads took a little time and patience to put back in. One nub at a time.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:25 PM   #77318
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[QUOTE=eakins;21566061]oh boy it sounds like another
just now with which dyno is best.
[/QUOTE

motolab......nuff said
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:56 PM   #77319
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I wonder how much more power I could have if I could get gasoline without 10% ethanol.
10% more?

I know my damn truck gets 1 mpg less when towing if I use the ethanol mix. 1 mpg doesn't sound like much, but when it only gets 11 towing and it drops to 10 it is a big deal to me. Especially when I have to drive 200 miles or more.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:21 PM   #77320
panhead_pete
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Hi guys

Any suggestions for a tank bag that will fit the DR650 Safari Tank. Looking for something that has a nice big map window in the top. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Cheers
Pete
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:47 PM   #77321
Brutalguyracing
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help clutch issues

i have a 2002 dr650 with say 5k on it im the 3rd owner
i just got the bike recently
drives well the problem i am having is
the clutch engages at the very end of clutch lever release
meaning i can disengage the clutch in the first id say 1/2"-3/4" of pull on lever
any ideas on what to do
i have no clutch slippage at high speeds.....
any info would help
thanks
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:28 PM   #77322
Skidmarkart
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That Bimota is amazing. Trade you my sister for it.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:35 PM   #77323
Brutalguyracing
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Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
That Bimota is amazing. Trade you my sister for it.
pics of said sister
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:40 PM   #77324
planemanx15
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Lowering links

Just bought a set of these. Really good price and a few different sizes for customization. I'll report back on the quality when I recieved them. Lowering my 790 2"... It seems like a lot, but with a 2x4 under my feet, I can get the ball of my feet on the ground. With another 1/2" I should be Even better. My only concern is bottoming out my suspension two up. I might have to turn up the preload on the rear spring. On the front, I'll just pull the forks up 1.5 inches.

http://burkhartcycle.com/store/index...roducts_id=162

Edit: if I knew at the time the vstrom 1000 seat is 1+ Taller than the 650, I wouldn't have to go though this trouble when I installed the seat.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:52 PM   #77325
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
i have a 2002 dr650 with say 5k on it im the 3rd owner
i just got the bike recently
drives well the problem i am having is
the clutch engages at the very end of clutch lever release
meaning i can disengage the clutch in the first id say 1/2"-3/4" of pull on lever
any ideas on what to do
i have no clutch slippage at high speeds.....
any info would help
thanks
I dont know if the dr is designed same but I had the same problem on my vulcan. Ended up being a week clutch pack spring. I never felt it slip either.
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