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Old 06-18-2013, 08:48 AM   #77671
JayHawk
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Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Cookin, AZ
Oddometer: 131
Adjustable side stand

Manracks maybe? He also has a thread in Vendors:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719358
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:23 AM   #77672
fusionzone
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Location: Singapore
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hey guys, anyone have a DR650SE stock handlebar riser for sale.

Being looking for one online but have no luck.

Thanks
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:24 AM   #77673
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,206
Selling my beloved DR650... but it's OK I have another one!

Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
linky doesnt work
Sorry, sometimes it helps to read the rules... Try this one.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=896757

thump! screwed with this post 06-18-2013 at 10:03 AM
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:07 AM   #77674
fusionzone
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anyone tried installing the ZETA Rubber killer on your DR650 before ?
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:54 AM   #77675
rpet
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Brooklyn, California
Oddometer: 809
Since we are talking sidestands, does anyone have an easy way of extending the stock sidestand? My bike is leaning over a lot now that it's got extended travel and an 18" rear.

By easy, I mean no welding involved. ;)

I was thinking something like this but taller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JNS-Engineer...e12eda&vxp=mtr
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:09 AM   #77676
MoBill
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: NJ
Oddometer: 13,487
Will this motion pro fork tool work to remove the damping rod thing? Or does it have to be a hex key?






And if anyone has a pic of what to remove to get the rear spring off, I'd be grateful. I can handle this stuff--just need a push. I'm not tracking on the written instructions.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:49 AM   #77677
dman
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Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 576
Nsu snafu

So after owning my bought-used DR for 18 months I finally decided to check the NSU. I don't have a real clutch tool but used my cordless impact and a bicycle tool like the one in this thread http://drriders.com/topic1206.html?s...0578cc7#p16382 and it was no problem (I don't see how people can remove the screws, replace and wire them with the clutch in place).

But using the same tool and my torque wrench tightening the hub nut back on, one of the clutch hub bosses snapped off. I'm sure it was mostly my technique, but they seem weak for this method. So be warned. Clutch hubs on eBay looked sketchy (one appeared to have been drilled out for lightness??) so I ordered a new one from BikeBandit and it's back-ordered :( Ordered a MotionPro clutch tool too. Meanwhile my DR is napping on the garage floor ... I don't really want to put the cover back on to right it, and it's ful of oil. Oh well, live and learn, but I just wanted to caution others to be more careful. By the way, on my '06 with 16K miles, the OEM screws both seemed tight enough

-dman
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:52 AM   #77678
DockingPilot
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Andover, N.J.
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You mean the spring bosses DMan ?
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:23 PM   #77679
dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
You mean the spring bosses DMan ?
Correct. They're tall, hollow and close to the center so I guess they take a lot of bending load when used to counteract the tightening torque, which is not what they're designed for. One snapped off at the base. I had my doubts .... should have listened to them. I saw later a post (either here or at drriders) where someone had the same result.

-dman
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:32 PM   #77680
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
So after owning my bought-used DR for 18 months I finally decided to check the NSU. I don't have a real clutch tool but used my cordless impact and a bicycle tool like the one in this thread http://drriders.com/topic1206.html?s...0578cc7#p16382 and it was no problem (I don't see how people can remove the screws, replace and wire them with the clutch in place).

But using the same tool and my torque wrench tightening the hub nut back on, one of the clutch hub bosses snapped off. I'm sure it was mostly my technique, but they seem weak for this method. So be warned. Clutch hubs on eBay looked sketchy (one appeared to have been drilled out for lightness??) so I ordered a new one from BikeBandit and it's back-ordered :( Ordered a MotionPro clutch tool too. Meanwhile my DR is napping on the garage floor ... I don't really want to put the cover back on to right it, and it's ful of oil. Oh well, live and learn, but I just wanted to caution others to be more careful. By the way, on my '06 with 16K miles, the OEM screws both seemed tight enough

-dman
Several owners have snapped these off ... so you are not alone. And it's why some owners prefer to struggle working behind the clutch to R&R the NSU bolts. Maybe the called for Torque rating is OFF?

Newer DR's seem to be found with tighter NSU bolts. A good thing! But allen heads and Loctite are my preference.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:39 PM   #77681
DockingPilot
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Location: Andover, N.J.
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They only take 10nm no more. They can be easily crushed if not careful.


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Old 06-18-2013, 01:50 PM   #77682
dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
They only take 10nm no more. They can be easily crushed if not careful.
i snapped the hub boss torquing the center nut. 36 ft-lbs I believe, a bit more than 10 NM. Or do I have the wrong spec?
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:04 PM   #77683
Tman00
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Joined: Jul 2008
Oddometer: 21
Need new rear tire.

Time for some new rubber. Need a good all around tire. Hated the stock tire-went the Kenda 270 route and want to try something else. Give me some ideas and how you liked the tires used.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:14 PM   #77684
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tman00 View Post
Time for some new rubber. Need a good all around tire. Hated the stock tire-went the Kenda 270 route and want to try something else. Give me some ideas and how you liked the tires used.
What is your type of riding?

I have tried the Pireli MT-21 and the Kenda TrackMaster II.

That's what I have used in the rear. Kenda, hands down. Can't wait for the MT21 to wear out so I can get back to the K.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:22 PM   #77685
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,922
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Will this motion pro fork tool work to remove the damping rod thing? Or does it have to be a hex key?
It doesn't have to be a hex, some have used a piece of 1" square tubing, others have jammed a broom handle into the top of the rod.

Here's a pic of the top of the damper rod. All you need is something to stop it from spinning as you remove the bottom bolt.
Photo thanks to DisTech (complete post: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=91)



Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
And if anyone has a pic of what to remove to get the rear spring off, I'd be grateful. I can handle this stuff--just need a push. I'm not tracking on the written instructions.
Don't make yourself crazy, it's just nuts and bolts.

You can remove the shock from the top or bottom, I did the bottom once but don't like removing the linkage bolts anymore than necessary.

From the top: bike on a stand to remove weight from suspension, remove air box, remove top and bottom shock bolts, wiggle shock out the top being careful of snagged wiring.

From the right side of the bike, you can see the two collars on top of the spring. Back the top one off (1-1/2" or so), then loosen the other one. Clean the threads with something, I used WD-40 but it's a dust magnet. If the first collar doesn't spin freely after loosening, find out why. The shock body is alum and you don't want to gall the threads. This is easier if you remove the airbox. Then you can turn the spring with you hand instead of hammering the second collar one lug at a time. (you may have to loosen the 2nd collar a few rounds before your hand can turn it.)
This is a Cogent w/rebound, a stock shock won't have the pritty red stuff.

Be very careful on reassembly, the shock clevis is alum and thin (few threads). Some torque specs are wrong and will strip the clevis threads.
Found it:

NC Rick:

"An important note:

DO NOT use the Suzuki manual torque specification to tighten the lower shock mounting bolt (on the shock clevis).

The prescribed torque will often rip the aluminum threads out of the clevice on the OEM or our shock.

There is an error in the manual.

We suggest 37 NM as the correct torque to tighten the M-10 fastener in the aluminum thread."

The two collars are on the left here (yes, there are two), unscrew 'em.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 06-18-2013 at 02:34 PM
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