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Old 06-18-2013, 10:52 AM   #77686
DockingPilot
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Location: Andover, N.J.
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You mean the spring bosses DMan ?
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:23 AM   #77687
dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
You mean the spring bosses DMan ?
Correct. They're tall, hollow and close to the center so I guess they take a lot of bending load when used to counteract the tightening torque, which is not what they're designed for. One snapped off at the base. I had my doubts .... should have listened to them. I saw later a post (either here or at drriders) where someone had the same result.

-dman
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:32 PM   #77688
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
So after owning my bought-used DR for 18 months I finally decided to check the NSU. I don't have a real clutch tool but used my cordless impact and a bicycle tool like the one in this thread http://drriders.com/topic1206.html?s...0578cc7#p16382 and it was no problem (I don't see how people can remove the screws, replace and wire them with the clutch in place).

But using the same tool and my torque wrench tightening the hub nut back on, one of the clutch hub bosses snapped off. I'm sure it was mostly my technique, but they seem weak for this method. So be warned. Clutch hubs on eBay looked sketchy (one appeared to have been drilled out for lightness??) so I ordered a new one from BikeBandit and it's back-ordered :( Ordered a MotionPro clutch tool too. Meanwhile my DR is napping on the garage floor ... I don't really want to put the cover back on to right it, and it's ful of oil. Oh well, live and learn, but I just wanted to caution others to be more careful. By the way, on my '06 with 16K miles, the OEM screws both seemed tight enough

-dman
Several owners have snapped these off ... so you are not alone. And it's why some owners prefer to struggle working behind the clutch to R&R the NSU bolts. Maybe the called for Torque rating is OFF?

Newer DR's seem to be found with tighter NSU bolts. A good thing! But allen heads and Loctite are my preference.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:39 PM   #77689
DockingPilot
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They only take 10nm no more. They can be easily crushed if not careful.


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Old 06-18-2013, 12:50 PM   #77690
dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
They only take 10nm no more. They can be easily crushed if not careful.
i snapped the hub boss torquing the center nut. 36 ft-lbs I believe, a bit more than 10 NM. Or do I have the wrong spec?
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:04 PM   #77691
Tman00
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Need new rear tire.

Time for some new rubber. Need a good all around tire. Hated the stock tire-went the Kenda 270 route and want to try something else. Give me some ideas and how you liked the tires used.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:14 PM   #77692
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tman00 View Post
Time for some new rubber. Need a good all around tire. Hated the stock tire-went the Kenda 270 route and want to try something else. Give me some ideas and how you liked the tires used.
What is your type of riding?

I have tried the Pireli MT-21 and the Kenda TrackMaster II.

That's what I have used in the rear. Kenda, hands down. Can't wait for the MT21 to wear out so I can get back to the K.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:22 PM   #77693
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Will this motion pro fork tool work to remove the damping rod thing? Or does it have to be a hex key?
It doesn't have to be a hex, some have used a piece of 1" square tubing, others have jammed a broom handle into the top of the rod.

Here's a pic of the top of the damper rod. All you need is something to stop it from spinning as you remove the bottom bolt.
Photo thanks to DisTech (complete post: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=91)



Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
And if anyone has a pic of what to remove to get the rear spring off, I'd be grateful. I can handle this stuff--just need a push. I'm not tracking on the written instructions.
Don't make yourself crazy, it's just nuts and bolts.

You can remove the shock from the top or bottom, I did the bottom once but don't like removing the linkage bolts anymore than necessary.

From the top: bike on a stand to remove weight from suspension, remove air box, remove top and bottom shock bolts, wiggle shock out the top being careful of snagged wiring.

From the right side of the bike, you can see the two collars on top of the spring. Back the top one off (1-1/2" or so), then loosen the other one. Clean the threads with something, I used WD-40 but it's a dust magnet. If the first collar doesn't spin freely after loosening, find out why. The shock body is alum and you don't want to gall the threads. This is easier if you remove the airbox. Then you can turn the spring with you hand instead of hammering the second collar one lug at a time. (you may have to loosen the 2nd collar a few rounds before your hand can turn it.)
This is a Cogent w/rebound, a stock shock won't have the pritty red stuff.

Be very careful on reassembly, the shock clevis is alum and thin (few threads). Some torque specs are wrong and will strip the clevis threads.
Found it:

NC Rick:

"An important note:

DO NOT use the Suzuki manual torque specification to tighten the lower shock mounting bolt (on the shock clevis).

The prescribed torque will often rip the aluminum threads out of the clevice on the OEM or our shock.

There is an error in the manual.

We suggest 37 NM as the correct torque to tighten the M-10 fastener in the aluminum thread."

The two collars are on the left here (yes, there are two), unscrew 'em.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 06-18-2013 at 01:34 PM
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:24 PM   #77694
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
i snapped the hub boss torquing the center nut. 36 ft-lbs I believe, a bit more than 10 NM. Or do I have the wrong spec?
The hub might take 35 ft/lbs but the spring bosses only take a light amount of torque in regular use. All bets are off if you're trying to use them to hold the hub centre as you torque that down.

BTW, I find the Motion Pro "Hub tool" to be completely useless. I want to find a couple of old clutch plates; one driving, one driven, and bolt them together to make a hub holder which won't damage anything when used.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:30 PM   #77695
Tman00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What is your type of riding?

I have tried the Pireli MT-21 and the Kenda TrackMaster II.

That's what I have used in the rear. Kenda, hands down. Can't wait for the MT21 to wear out so I can get back to the K.
I need a good 50/50 tire or as close as I can get. I do enough street riding that a full blown dirt tire won't last long. i know it is all a compromise,but just looking for some feed back from people who have tried this route.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:32 PM   #77696
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tman00 View Post
I need a good 50/50 tire or as close as I can get. I do enough street riding that a full blown dirt tire won't last long. i know it is all a compromise,but just looking for some feed back from people who have tried this route.
I really like the Mitas E-07 set I have now. But I have no idea where you are so it may not be available to you.
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:44 PM   #77697
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I really like the Mitas E-07 set I have now. But I have no idea where you are so it may not be available to you.
Are you running the Dakar or the regular E-07?
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:44 PM   #77698
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tman00 View Post
I need a good 50/50 tire or as close as I can get. I do enough street riding that a full blown dirt tire won't last long. i know it is all a compromise,but just looking for some feed back from people who have tried this route.
Shinko: 705 (mostly street)
Shinko: 700 or 244. These two seem to do the same job, I'm unsure why they make both. I've been running the 5:10-17 244 and like it.

I don't ride mud or much sand, the rear tire is rarely an issue for me. Stolen quote: "Which rear tire?..........something round and black."

I've recently switched to a DOT knobby on the front and although they wear out pretty quick, I sure like 'em.
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2004 DR650: 60,466 miles
2013 WR250R

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:49 PM   #77699
DockingPilot
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Location: Andover, N.J.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
i snapped the hub boss torquing the center nut. 36 ft-lbs I believe, a bit more than 10 NM. Or do I have the wrong spec?
No, I am wrong. I meant the pressure plate spring bosses. Here is the inboard side of what I thought you were referring to.


And the outboard side
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:31 PM   #77700
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Are you running the Dakar or the regular E-07?
Regular; not Dakar.
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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