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Old 06-18-2013, 07:10 PM   #77701
PPCLI-Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
we can buy them from MX1 Canada but it's $$$ after shipping.
Mitas corp has said (to me via email) they are working on a US channel supply.
Read the humorous vendor thread from Daniel.
Much of the world gets Mitas and that E07 has proven a very high mileage rear DS tire.
The guys from OZ love em.
I am running E-09s on my DR and I love it , great traction in many different conditions.
you should find a guy that lives in Canada just north of you and trade gear , stuff you cant find in Canada for stuff you cant find in the states
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:02 PM   #77702
MoBill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
It doesn't have to be a hex, some have used a piece of 1" square tubing, others have jammed a broom handle into the top of the rod.

Here's a pic of the top of the damper rod. All you need is something to stop it from spinning as you remove the bottom bolt.
Photo thanks to DisTech (complete post: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=91)



Don't make yourself crazy, it's just nuts and bolts.

You can remove the shock from the top or bottom, I did the bottom once but don't like removing the linkage bolts anymore than necessary.

From the top: bike on a stand to remove weight from suspension, remove air box, remove top and bottom shock bolts, wiggle shock out the top being careful of snagged wiring.

From the right side of the bike, you can see the two collars on top of the spring. Back the top one off (1-1/2" or so), then loosen the other one. Clean the threads with something, I used WD-40 but it's a dust magnet. If the first collar doesn't spin freely after loosening, find out why. The shock body is alum and you don't want to gall the threads. This is easier if you remove the airbox. Then you can turn the spring with you hand instead of hammering the second collar one lug at a time. (you may have to loosen the 2nd collar a few rounds before your hand can turn it.)
This is a Cogent w/rebound, a stock shock won't have the pritty red stuff.

Be very careful on reassembly, the shock clevis is alum and thin (few threads). Some torque specs are wrong and will strip the clevis threads.
Found it:

NC Rick:

"An important note:

DO NOT use the Suzuki manual torque specification to tighten the lower shock mounting bolt (on the shock clevis).

The prescribed torque will often rip the aluminum threads out of the clevice on the OEM or our shock.

There is an error in the manual

We suggest 37 NM as the correct torque to tighten the M-10 fastener in the aluminum thread."

The two collars are on the left here (yes, there are two), unscrew 'em.
I tried making that thing....it slips inside--I dunno--it won't stay put. I am prone to ham-fisting stuff when using a shortcut--so I ordered the SST.

On the rear shock--I'm at a lost to understand how you can take it off the top with that cylinder on the side---and I can't figure wtf to do to remove it from the bottom.

Do I just hold the top and unscrew the clevis?

I'm sorry--but I don't see what to unscrew except that.

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Old 06-18-2013, 11:04 PM   #77703
sander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
I tried making that thing....it slips inside--I dunno--it won't stay put. I am prone to ham-fisting stuff when using a shortcut--so I ordered the SST.

On the rear shock--I'm at a lost to understand how you can take it off the top with that cylinder on the side---and I can't figure wtf to do to remove it from the bottom.

Do I just hold the top and unscrew the clevis?

I'm sorry--but I don't see what to unscrew except that.
Loosen those 2 serrated nuts left of the spring (1 and 2), first the left most one (1) and then the one that sits against the spring (2). That way you remove all the preload on the spring once the spring is loose all the stuff keeping it there (3) will just fall out.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:29 PM   #77704
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
I tried making that thing....it slips inside--I dunno--it won't stay put. I am prone to ham-fisting stuff when using a shortcut--so I ordered the SST.
Remember when the tool arrives, insert it in the top of the fork and secure it with a wrench/cross bar and then turn the allen screw on the outside bottom of the fork tube. Don't try to turn the tool you ordered, turn the wrench.

Again thanks to DisTech:


Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
On the rear shock--I'm at a lost to understand how you can take it off the top with that cylinder on the side---and I can't figure wtf to do to remove it from the bottom.

Do I just hold the top and unscrew the clevis?

I'm sorry--but I don't see what to unscrew except that.

When I said you can remove "it" from the top or bottom, I meant the shock can be removed from the top of the bike or out the bottom of the bike.

Loosen the two collars with a hammer and punch, on the left end of the shock in your photo, as I described earlier (clean the threads so you don't gall them). Then unscrew them to the left, toward the cylinder on the side (oil reservoir), about 1-1/4". The first one will spin over easily, once the threads are clean. The second collar will have spring tension and you may have to use your hammer and punch for the first few turns. Once it's a little looser, you can grab the spring and collar with your hand and turn them both, which is faster than the hammer/punch.

Then slide the spring and rubber bump stop to the left and remove the alum spring seat on the right end sitting on the clevis (don't try to unscrew the clevis). The spring seat is cut so it can slide sideways off the shaft once the spring and bump stop are moved to the left (in your photo). With the spring seat off, the spring will slide off, to the right, over the clevis.

We're getting closer, keep asking questions and we'll get you through this project. Don't force anything, take a pic, ask a question; someone will be along inna minit.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:09 AM   #77705
duckslider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tman00 View Post
Time for some new rubber. Need a good all around tire. Hated the stock tire-went the Kenda 270 route and want to try something else. Give me some ideas and how you liked the tires used.
hey Tman00,how many miles did ya get outta the kenda270?was it a rear?
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:03 AM   #77706
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
so I ordered the SST.
you need these any way,
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...7880-html.html


if you have a compressor:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...nch-95310.html



if not:

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-e...nch-68099.html

Then the thing will fly apart and you can use the tool for other jobs. And all for probably the same money as the Suz special tool.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:41 AM   #77707
MoBill
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Thanks fellas. Thanks much. I get it now--backing off the preload exposes the hardware I need to loosen to remove the clevis. "Clevis"...that's fun to say.

SST from MC superstore should be here today. I can't wait to move ahead.

3 circuit solution, powerlets, all here...it's all still in pieces, but it's ready to go back together as soon as the suspension is done.

Funny on the harbor freight stuff--I need to buy the impact--I'm set on hexes, but not to 30mm
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:52 AM   #77708
Tman00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckslider View Post
hey Tman00,how many miles did ya get outta the kenda270?was it a rear?
Duckslider, I am running the 270's front and rear-put on at the same time. Right now I think I am at 3500 miles,but I will have to check tonight. The rear has some tread left but traction on the dirt is suffering badly. The front is starting to cup. They were pretty good new-no complaints. Just wnated to try something new.
Has anyone tried the Bridgestone Trailwing 302's? How about the TKC 80's?
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:04 AM   #77709
Tman00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I agree. If you are on a budget the Shinko 244 is very hard to beat. Kenda 270 is similar. I'm running a 244 rear now and like it fine for street and moderate off road. Cheap and wears pretty well too.
Thanks Grifter..thats the kind of info I am wanting. Someone who has tried it and what they have found. And yes my budget is on the tight side right now.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:04 AM   #77710
8gv
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Fork work...

When I disassembled my KLR250 forks I used a Craftsman spark plug socket that has an external hex. I put it on upside down on a couple of long extensions.

The air tool I borrowed from autozone (for a car repair) didn't work out due to my wussy 5 gallon air compressor.

On the 250 there was a torque spec for tightening the rod. If there's a Suzuki spec, can this be accomplished with an air tool?
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:27 AM   #77711
bobzilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Thanks fellas. Thanks much. I get it now--backing off the preload exposes the hardware I need to loosen to remove the clevis. "Clevis"...that's fun to say.

SST from MC superstore should be here today. I can't wait to move ahead.

3 circuit solution, powerlets, all here...it's all still in pieces, but it's ready to go back together as soon as the suspension is done.

Funny on the harbor freight stuff--I need to buy the impact--I'm set on hexes, but not to 30mm
why do you want to remove the "clevis" ? It does not need to come off the shaft to change the spring. after yo loosten the preload collars and slide the spring to the top of the shock you will see the bumper can slide up also and then the two bottom spring keepers can rotate and slide off the shaft to the side.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:34 AM   #77712
MoBill
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sorry...I meant the hardware,.not really moving the clevis. I just like saying clevis. :boobs
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:31 AM   #77713
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Shinko: 705 (mostly street)
Shinko: 700 or 244. These two seem to do the same job, I'm unsure why they make both. I've been running the 5:10-17 244 and like it.

I don't ride mud or much sand, the rear tire is rarely an issue for me. Stolen quote: "Which rear tire?..........something round and black."

I've recently switched to a DOT knobby on the front and although they wear out pretty quick, I sure like 'em.
I've got the D700's on my DR650 and had the 244s' on my WR250R. I figured i'd be doing more street duty on the DR650 and thought the 700's would give me better life and better street performance with maybe a bit less dirt.

IMOP, the 700's & 244's are not even close. You would think they would be looking at them and that's what I thought, but I was totally wrong. The 700's suck off road compared to the 244's. In gravel they are not nearly as confidence inspiring and they are down right scary in the mud. They also let go with little to no warning. The 700's have a very 'soft' sidewall tire and therefore airing down makes the street ride horrible and really doesn't gain you much on the dirt so you end up leaving them aired up all the time. The 244's are a nice compromise between full on knobby's and still having decent street performance. You can run them at various pressures and they still handle very well.

I've also found the 700's are wearing very quickly on the road and probably not lasting near as long as the 244's even though I've played off road a lot more on the 244's. The 700's actually feel really good on the road, but that's about the only positive I can give them. Between the horrible off road performance and probably under 2500 miles on the rear, I'd either run the 244's if I wanted a 50/50 tire or the 705 if I wanted something a bit more street oriented.

I can't wait to get these crappy 700's off my DR650.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:48 AM   #77714
HackFlipper
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So some pages back I posed a question about luggage options for the DR. This was my problem.



So after buying the Promoto Billet saddle bag guards to go with my rack and trying many different bag placements I set off on a 600 mile ride. Got home with a melted right side cover and burnt bag. (I didn't set off with the bags looking like this by the way..) At least the bags were free to me! So for a solution I went this route.



Dirtracks.com racks and Nelson-Rigg adventure dry bags. I really wanted the Wolfman setup. I just couldn't get over the price. So for less then $200 bucks all in this is what I got. First impressions of the Racks is that they are pretty sturdy. The Nelson Riggs lack some of the features of the Wolfmans..ie quick removal from the racks etc. They do have a lifetime warranty though. They're spacious and seem tough. We will see after the next adventure.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:56 AM   #77715
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
When I disassembled my KLR250 forks I used a Craftsman spark plug socket that has an external hex. I put it on upside down on a couple of long extensions.

The air tool I borrowed from autozone (for a car repair) didn't work out due to my wussy 5 gallon air compressor.

On the 250 there was a torque spec for tightening the rod. If there's a Suzuki spec, can this be accomplished with an air tool?
I don't think the torque spec, for the Allen bolt on the bottom of the DR fork, is that tight (that you would need an impact gun or an air wrench). IIRC, it's like 19 lbs/ft. When I did my forks, I used a 1" piece of square steel tubing held in a vice. The fork was just slightly less than horizontal to keep any old fork oil in the fork. I was able to hold the fork up, keep some pressure so that the 1" tube was not displaced and torque the Allen bolt. I was pretty surprised at how easy it was to dis-assemble and re-assemble both.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HackFlipper
Got home with a melted right side cover and burnt bag.
I saw your post and was afraid that's what was going to happen. My DR came with a set of side racks that I cannot identify (and a brand new set of the N-R bags that you have). I've decided to go with the Bike Nashbar brand of bicycle pannier bags on my "no name" side racks. Seems to work OK but I've never really done any extended trips with that set-up. It's a shame that the Pro Moto Billet side racks didn't do much to keep the bags off of the muffler or keep your side panel from getting melted. They sure are nice looking. Ah well, live and learn.
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