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Old 06-18-2013, 01:49 PM   #77716
DockingPilot
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Location: Andover, N.J.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
i snapped the hub boss torquing the center nut. 36 ft-lbs I believe, a bit more than 10 NM. Or do I have the wrong spec?
No, I am wrong. I meant the pressure plate spring bosses. Here is the inboard side of what I thought you were referring to.


And the outboard side
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:31 PM   #77717
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Are you running the Dakar or the regular E-07?
Regular; not Dakar.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:46 PM   #77718
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tman00 View Post
I need a good 50/50 tire or as close as I can get. I do enough street riding that a full blown dirt tire won't last long. i know it is all a compromise,but just looking for some feed back from people who have tried this route.
shinko 244 in 5.10 (130) is a great 50/50 tire for the price
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:48 PM   #77719
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Shinko: 705 (mostly street)
Shinko: 700 or 244. These two seem to do the same job, I'm unsure why they make both. I've been running the 5:10-17 244 and like it.

I don't ride mud or much sand, the rear tire is rarely an issue for me. Stolen quote: "Which rear tire?..........something round and black."

I've recently switched to a DOT knobby on the front and although they wear out pretty quick, I sure like 'em.
they have both as Shinko buys old molds and produces tire.
i've tried the 700 and the 244 was much better in the dirt.
the 700 did not last very long IMO.

money no object would be a Mefo Explorer rear.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:50 PM   #77720
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I really like the Mitas E-07 set I have now. But I have no idea where you are so it may not be available to you.
we can buy them from MX1 Canada but it's $$$ after shipping.
Mitas corp has said (to me via email) they are working on a US channel supply.
Read the humorous vendor thread from Daniel.
Much of the world gets Mitas and that E07 has proven a very high mileage rear DS tire.
The guys from OZ love em.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:11 PM   #77721
DockingPilot
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Ive used the Mitas E07 on my F800 exclusively. It was really good and lasted about 3,500-4k miles.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:51 PM   #77722
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tman00 View Post
I need a good 50/50 tire or as close as I can get. I do enough street riding that a full blown dirt tire won't last long. i know it is all a compromise,but just looking for some feed back from people who have tried this route.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
shinko 244 in 5.10 (130) is a great 50/50 tire for the price
I agree. If you are on a budget the Shinko 244 is very hard to beat. Kenda 270 is similar. I'm running a 244 rear now and like it fine for street and moderate off road. Cheap and wears pretty well too.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:56 PM   #77723
8gv
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
Oddometer: 2,115
Good news:
I loctited and torqued my primary nut.

Bad news:
To keep the crank from turning I put a board in my rear spokes.

Worse news:
I didn't put it in fifth gear before taking off the clutch cover and could only get second.

Even worse news:
The massive strength of my arms on the torque wrench was too much for one of my spokes. It broke off the nipple. Now I have half the nipple in the rim and half on my spoke.

Really bad news:
Suzuki wants me to buy a spoke set for $65!

Does anyone here know how to make this better cheaply?
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:00 PM   #77724
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Good news:
I loctited and torqued my primary nut.



Really bad news:
Suzuki wants me to buy a spoke set for $65!

Does anyone here know how to make this better cheaply?
check your PMs
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:24 PM   #77725
thump!
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 653
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Good news:
I loctited and torqued my primary nut.

Bad news:
To keep the crank from turning I put a board in my rear spokes.

Worse news:
I didn't put it in fifth gear before taking off the clutch cover and could only get second.

Even worse news:
The massive strength of my arms on the torque wrench was too much for one of my spokes. It broke off the nipple. Now I have half the nipple in the rim and half on my spoke.

Really bad news:
Suzuki wants me to buy a spoke set for $65!

Does anyone here know how to make this better cheaply?
I did this once. Duh! Fortunately a local independent shop had replacement spoke nipples. I think I paid $1 for two.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:10 PM   #77726
PPCLI-Jim
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Victoria BC where I ride year round.
Oddometer: 223
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
we can buy them from MX1 Canada but it's $$$ after shipping.
Mitas corp has said (to me via email) they are working on a US channel supply.
Read the humorous vendor thread from Daniel.
Much of the world gets Mitas and that E07 has proven a very high mileage rear DS tire.
The guys from OZ love em.
I am running E-09s on my DR and I love it , great traction in many different conditions.
you should find a guy that lives in Canada just north of you and trade gear , stuff you cant find in Canada for stuff you cant find in the states
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:02 PM   #77727
MoBill
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: NJ
Oddometer: 13,165
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
It doesn't have to be a hex, some have used a piece of 1" square tubing, others have jammed a broom handle into the top of the rod.

Here's a pic of the top of the damper rod. All you need is something to stop it from spinning as you remove the bottom bolt.
Photo thanks to DisTech (complete post: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=91)



Don't make yourself crazy, it's just nuts and bolts.

You can remove the shock from the top or bottom, I did the bottom once but don't like removing the linkage bolts anymore than necessary.

From the top: bike on a stand to remove weight from suspension, remove air box, remove top and bottom shock bolts, wiggle shock out the top being careful of snagged wiring.

From the right side of the bike, you can see the two collars on top of the spring. Back the top one off (1-1/2" or so), then loosen the other one. Clean the threads with something, I used WD-40 but it's a dust magnet. If the first collar doesn't spin freely after loosening, find out why. The shock body is alum and you don't want to gall the threads. This is easier if you remove the airbox. Then you can turn the spring with you hand instead of hammering the second collar one lug at a time. (you may have to loosen the 2nd collar a few rounds before your hand can turn it.)
This is a Cogent w/rebound, a stock shock won't have the pritty red stuff.

Be very careful on reassembly, the shock clevis is alum and thin (few threads). Some torque specs are wrong and will strip the clevis threads.
Found it:

NC Rick:

"An important note:

DO NOT use the Suzuki manual torque specification to tighten the lower shock mounting bolt (on the shock clevis).

The prescribed torque will often rip the aluminum threads out of the clevice on the OEM or our shock.

There is an error in the manual

We suggest 37 NM as the correct torque to tighten the M-10 fastener in the aluminum thread."

The two collars are on the left here (yes, there are two), unscrew 'em.
I tried making that thing....it slips inside--I dunno--it won't stay put. I am prone to ham-fisting stuff when using a shortcut--so I ordered the SST.

On the rear shock--I'm at a lost to understand how you can take it off the top with that cylinder on the side---and I can't figure wtf to do to remove it from the bottom.

Do I just hold the top and unscrew the clevis?

I'm sorry--but I don't see what to unscrew except that.

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Old 06-18-2013, 10:04 PM   #77728
sander
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Location: Perth
Oddometer: 263
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
I tried making that thing....it slips inside--I dunno--it won't stay put. I am prone to ham-fisting stuff when using a shortcut--so I ordered the SST.

On the rear shock--I'm at a lost to understand how you can take it off the top with that cylinder on the side---and I can't figure wtf to do to remove it from the bottom.

Do I just hold the top and unscrew the clevis?

I'm sorry--but I don't see what to unscrew except that.
Loosen those 2 serrated nuts left of the spring (1 and 2), first the left most one (1) and then the one that sits against the spring (2). That way you remove all the preload on the spring once the spring is loose all the stuff keeping it there (3) will just fall out.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:29 PM   #77729
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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205'd by Sander

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
I tried making that thing....it slips inside--I dunno--it won't stay put. I am prone to ham-fisting stuff when using a shortcut--so I ordered the SST.
Remember when the tool arrives, insert it in the top of the fork and secure it with a wrench/cross bar and then turn the allen screw on the outside bottom of the fork tube. Don't try to turn the tool you ordered, turn the wrench.

Again thanks to DisTech:


Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
On the rear shock--I'm at a lost to understand how you can take it off the top with that cylinder on the side---and I can't figure wtf to do to remove it from the bottom.

Do I just hold the top and unscrew the clevis?

I'm sorry--but I don't see what to unscrew except that.

When I said you can remove "it" from the top or bottom, I meant the shock can be removed from the top of the bike or out the bottom of the bike.

Loosen the two collars with a hammer and punch, on the left end of the shock in your photo, as I described earlier (clean the threads so you don't gall them). Then unscrew them to the left, toward the cylinder on the side (oil reservoir), about 1-1/4". The first one will spin over easily, once the threads are clean. The second collar will have spring tension and you may have to use your hammer and punch for the first few turns. Once it's a little looser, you can grab the spring and collar with your hand and turn them both, which is faster than the hammer/punch.

Then slide the spring and rubber bump stop to the left and remove the alum spring seat on the right end sitting on the clevis (don't try to unscrew the clevis). The spring seat is cut so it can slide sideways off the shaft once the spring and bump stop are moved to the left (in your photo). With the spring seat off, the spring will slide off, to the right, over the clevis.

We're getting closer, keep asking questions and we'll get you through this project. Don't force anything, take a pic, ask a question; someone will be along inna minit.
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:09 AM   #77730
duckslider
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Home of the Chiko.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tman00 View Post
Time for some new rubber. Need a good all around tire. Hated the stock tire-went the Kenda 270 route and want to try something else. Give me some ideas and how you liked the tires used.
hey Tman00,how many miles did ya get outta the kenda270?was it a rear?
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