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Old 06-21-2013, 10:23 AM   #77821
Tramontana
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Getting to "the point"...
Oddometer: 2,057
Temps and Volts...

...after posting my question about where to set my warning and danger alarms for my new Striker computer, I happened to call a local mechanic, Jim at TFOG Wheelsports in Golden, CO and asked him what he thought.

In short, I've programmed the computer to give me a flashing amber LED light for a visual warning if voltage supplied to the meter drops to 11.8 V, and will flash red for critical condition at 10.8 V or less.

Likewise I entered 275dF as the solid yellow LED warning of temp, and 325dF for solid red LED for critical condition.

We'll see what readings I get, hopefully trail riding tomorrow.

Cheers!
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:30 AM   #77822
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
The thread title is "Stators Demystified"

EDIT: Here you go:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189734
Thanks! I've now bookmarked this thread in 3 places ... so should be able to locate it next time this comes up!
recommended reading to ALL!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 06-21-2013 at 11:00 AM
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:42 AM   #77823
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinMan207 View Post
...Bottom line for me: My grip heaters will drain my battery over time at full heat mode while riding. I show right at or slightly less than 12 volts. The low setting will be a better choice to now.
That's seems really strange. Don't know what else you have going on your bike but my DR will run the stock lights, my dualstar grip heaters on high and my Tourmaster electric vest (never have run it past medium) indefinitely. I'm kind of wondering if you have a bad winding in your stator. There are 3 hence the three phase AC output. It will work (poorly) with only two.
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:58 AM   #77824
John E
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Hmmm...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
A couple of new things on the DR650.

Screws that, beyond having to have an allen wrench, won't fuck with me as much as the stripped-heads of those funky Japanese phillips style bolts did:



Some case protection is better than none:



Still need a skid plate though.
What's the story on that chain...?
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:59 AM   #77825
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
That's seems really strange. Don't know what else you have going on your bike but my DR will run the stock lights, my dualstar grip heaters on high and my Tourmaster electric vest (never have run it past medium) indefinitely. I'm kind of wondering if you have a bad winding in your stator. There are 3 hence the three phase AC output. It will work (poorly) with only two.
I've taken several long rides where I ran my battery down running grips on HIGH (30 watts) and Gerbing jacket at 100% (77 watts). Stock headlight ON. After about 3 hours, bike would not re-start. (good battery)

With grips on LOW, Gerbing down to 50%, headlight ON, all OK. Battery may be slightly discharged but enough to crank over motor. But still, not ideal.

I installed a headlight switch for day time running. This gives you back 55 watts. Gerbing is warmer, grips hotter, no dead battery, but NOT ideal at night (!!!) or on dangerous roads where you need a headlight.

My next step was to go to an HID headlight. $25 and it draws just 35 Watts and is 3 times brighter than stock H-4 bulb. Now I run everything at max and battery does not go dead. It may discharge a bit ... but always starts bike. So that 20 Watt reduction of the bulb makes a difference. I still cut off headlight when not needed if running Gerbing/Grips at Max in super cold riding.

As I approach my destination I cut off Gerbing & Grips (or at least reduce settings to LOW) for last 20 minuted of riding. This recharges battery back to 100%. (presuming newish, healthy battery). I don't have a Volt meter, but will install one soon. Very handy to monitor battery health.
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:52 AM   #77826
DockingPilot
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If I asked this before, forgive me fellas. 51 now and AARP is calling
I have a 50% tread on a Heidy K60 leftover my my F800. Will a 140 fit in there before I even try ?
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:00 PM   #77827
TinMan207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
That's seems really strange. Don't know what else you have going on your bike but my DR will run the stock lights, my dualstar grip heaters on high and my Tourmaster electric vest (never have run it past medium) indefinitely. I'm kind of wondering if you have a bad winding in your stator. There are 3 hence the three phase AC output. It will work (poorly) with only two.

OK, I'll bite. how would an idiot (OK, I'm not really an idiot, but its close enough for this conversation) go about checking this?

The bike has 75k miles on it so anything that can wear out could actually BE worn out.
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:50 PM   #77828
victor441
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
If I asked this before, forgive me fellas. 51 now and AARP is calling
I have a 50% tread on a Heidy K60 leftover my my F800. Will a 140 fit in there before I even try ?
Width wise for sure, I have a 150/70-17 on my DR650SM and clearance is no problem....but check out the tire makers site to see if the rim width is compatible (stock DR rear is 2.5" IIRC) and profile matters here too...i.e is it a 140/90, 140/80, etc.
There is a great general tire vs. rim size reference at http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...Size_Chart.pdf
and in my limited experience it has agreed with tire manufacturers data but it would be best to double check.
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:38 PM   #77829
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinMan207 View Post
OK, I'll bite. how would an idiot (OK, I'm not really an idiot, but its close enough for this conversation) go about checking this?

The bike has 75k miles on it so anything that can wear out could actually BE worn out.
I believe there is a section in the service manual that deals with bench testing the stator. What I recall is there are three yellow wires coming from the stator (one for each winding) that connect directly to the voltage regulator/rectifier. Unplug that connector and measure the resistance between each yellow wire from the stator and ground. I don't recall the actual target value in ohms (service manual) but they should all be the same or very close. If one of them is substantially different you have a problem.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:36 PM   #77830
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
A good battery can handle running in deficit for quite a while ... 2 or 3 hours usually. Also, once RPM are UP (or accessories are switched OFF) the charging system gets the battery back up to 100% in about 20 minutes. (from full discharge).
This can all also depend on how much wattage you're using. If you're barely running in deficit, you might get a lot more time from a battery.

Quote:
I've not rewound my Stator but if I ever get on the road again I would consider it to allow me use of more accessories to keep warm..
LED tail/brake, dash, and low-wattage CREE driving/fog lights could lower your wattage use even more with your HID headlight turned off. With the LED driving/fog lights, you could still be fairly visible too.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:04 PM   #77831
TaZ9
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Location: Northern Colorado
Oddometer: 259
Another high milage DR650?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TinMan207 View Post
OK, I'll bite. how would an idiot (OK, I'm not really an idiot, but its close enough for this conversation) go about checking this?

The bike has 75k miles on it so anything that can wear out could actually BE worn out.
Is this 75K (75,000 mi) on your '06 Dr650? If so, can you give a listing of things you have had to repair or replace in all those miles?

I am on my second DR650 and doing my best to make this one last a long, long time.

Taz9
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:31 PM   #77832
mantramoto
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re. slow drain

I'll wait 'til y'all are done talking stators and ask about my oil question when your done... This stator thread is interesting though.
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:15 AM   #77833
GSF1200S
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I've failed too ... plenty. Agree about No line. These days on a loaded bike I avoid such trails. These young Aussies are all in great shape and very experienced off road riders ... so they do very well even on the DR.

Did you know the DR650 will pull to 90 mph (indicated) in 4th gear? Stock gearing! It's the only way to really find out the bikes top speed. Shift into 5th at 90mph and get yer head down! Mine pulls to about 105 or so indicated ... probably 95 mph actual. (just a hint of tail wind)
Did you know my Bandit will pull 90 in second even with lower gearing and probably do it faster than my Dr could hit 50?

This is kind of what I meant. The DR isnt bad power wise for what it is, but its still an old tech thumper. It needs all the power tweaks it can get to play any kind of hotrod. Another thing to note is that many of you talk indicated and I'm talking actual since my vapor is spot on with my GPS. I personally find that my DR loves being one tooth down on the front sprocket. Better offroad, basically the same onroad except quicker off a light, and the only negatives are the engine works a bit harder and uses a bit more fuel
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:32 AM   #77834
TinMan207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I believe there is a section in the service manual that deals with bench testing the stator. What I recall is there are three yellow wires coming from the stator (one for each winding) that connect directly to the voltage regulator/rectifier. Unplug that connector and measure the resistance between each yellow wire from the stator and ground. I don't recall the actual target value in ohms (service manual) but they should all be the same or very close. If one of them is substantially different you have a problem.

Sounds like I need to break into the engine for this? yep, that will have to wait a while. I appreciate the information, you guys never fail to amaze me with your collective knowledge, but cracking the seal on the engine isn't something I'm gonna attempt right now.
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02 Suzuki DL1000 - 06 Suzuki DL650 (2 at the moment!) - 06 DR650 - 00 DR650
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:51 AM   #77835
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinMan207 View Post
Sounds like I need to break into the engine for this? yep, that will have to wait a while. I appreciate the information, you guys never fail to amaze me with your collective knowledge, but cracking the seal on the engine isn't something I'm gonna attempt right now.
Not unless you have to replace it. The connector plug is external somewhere around the airbox so you can check it without taking very much apart.
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