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Old 06-24-2013, 05:07 PM   #77911
8gv
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
Oddometer: 2,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This is something DR riders should pay attention to! If an ISDE guy can't break the bead ... I doubt anyone can. I've posted about this sort of problem before ... but I would not have guessed that the Shinko 244 would be a tough tire to break down. But I'll take Docking Pilot's word on this!

I had tremendous problems breaking the bead on my Avon Distanzias ... in one case, rode it FLAT 50 miles on pavement and it NEVER broke the bead. Took Two guys and a proper bead breaker to do it. What a PITA. (We used a giant C clamp that a buddy packs)

Some sort of decent Bead Breaker should be carried ... and one that's been tested, so you know you can do it Solo. With flat tires, friends around are always appreciated. ... and that is why I rode 50 miles on my flat, destroyed the tube (Valve stem pulled out). But with friends drinking beer and BS'ing ... the whole episode became a Party.
'08 bike

3100 miles

Original Trailwings

Four bar clamps

Two C-clamps

More "verbal lubrication" than a landing craft on D-day

One hour

WTF???
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:44 PM   #77912
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
My experience with the Shinko 244 was it was fine for the price. Cheap as heck. Mounted it in Cresent City California when the volcanic rock in Ore and Wash ate the T63 up.
The Shinko lasted well and did a good job. The problem was removing it. It was a real bitch to break the bead. I ride with a 3 time ISDE rider and he couldn't even break that bead. I think if I had a puncture out in the woods I'd be riding it flat.


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The MotionPro BeadBreaker levers work great for me. I just used them to break the bead on a 15" cruiser wheel/tire with 20K miles on it. They also double as tire levers.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:42 PM   #77913
trumposorousrex
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Location: Detroit
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So I was fixing the leaky base gasket and dropped the cam pin and circlips in the bottom end. I recovered one circlip with a magnet. I can't be the first one to do this. Can someone can point me it the right direction? Do I have to split the cases now?
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:56 PM   #77914
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
'08 bike

3100 miles

Original Trailwings

Four bar clamps

Two C-clamps

More "verbal lubrication" than a landing craft on D-day

One hour

WTF???
Oh my! Do you have much experience changing motorcycle tires?
One common mistake Noobs make is ... they forget to remove the Valve core from the Valve stem. YOU MUST PULL THAT core, even on a flat tire.
Any air trapped in there can make it impossible to break the bead.

There are tons more little tricks to learn. There are several good videos on this ... but most make it look way too easy.

Everyone should own a Coates Tire Machine. Pure luxury.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:00 PM   #77915
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Any explanation as to why one 244 is easy peasy to break down and another is next to impossible? I'm stumped on this one.

I understand about tires that have been on the rim for a year or two ... but with a 244 that's only been on a few months ... what gives?
That's all with the same tyre...

I blame the WD40 gluing it to the rim...
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:03 PM   #77916
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Sorry- dumpster got em. They were far from new. I had about 2500 on them. They really weren't that bad on pave and hard pack dirt roads. I just remember going through some wet grass- it wasn't pretty.
I had an Avon Gripster on the rear and thought I'd pass my 5 year old nephew on his quad, slide the back around the corner, blast off and go home.

Nice lush grass.

I swear as soon as I hit the back brake, it doubled in speed. Sideways.
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:00 AM   #77917
TinMan207
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Southern Maine -- most days
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Not unless you have to replace it. The connector plug is external somewhere around the airbox so you can check it without taking very much apart.

Ahhhh. A light bulb goes on....



This is, I believe, the information Thump was talking about in the repair manual. At This MOMENT I don't know how to translate it into action. But I will figure it out. I include it here for background.

If This is not the information that Thump was talking about, I am hope someone will call BS.

Thanks Thump
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:40 AM   #77918
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinMan207 View Post
Ahhhh. A light bulb goes on....



This is, I believe, the information Thump was talking about in the repair manual. At This MOMENT I don't know how to translate it into action. But I will figure it out. I include it here for background.

If This is not the information that Thump was talking about, I am hope someone will call BS.

Thanks Thump
Yes, I believe somewhere there are nominal resistance values for the three coils also but the no load test described on that page is probably the best way to test for a defective stator.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:01 AM   #77919
Burnt Toast
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Location: Greensboro, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumposorousrex View Post
So I was fixing the leaky base gasket and dropped the cam pin and circlips in the bottom end. I recovered one circlip with a magnet. I can't be the first one to do this. Can someone can point me it the right direction? Do I have to split the cases now?
I would fish like hell before you think about cracking the cases. Take the clutch cover off. There are some access holes you can do additional fishing through. Flush with diesel fuel and try again if you can't find it at first. This worked for a guy a few months ago. I posted a pic for him showing access holes through both sides with the covers off.

If you haven't already done so, you can check the NSU screws while you are at it.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:12 AM   #77920
8gv
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Location: North central CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Oh my! Do you have much experience changing motorcycle tires?
One common mistake Noobs make is ... they forget to remove the Valve core from the Valve stem. YOU MUST PULL THAT core, even on a flat tire.
Any air trapped in there can make it impossible to break the bead.

There are tons more little tricks to learn. There are several good videos on this ... but most make it look way too easy.

Everyone should own a Coates Tire Machine. Pure luxury.
This was tire number 7 for me. I have never had this much trouble.

Can the tire machine be trailered behind the bike?
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:51 AM   #77921
805gregg
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Location: Ojai, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumposorousrex View Post
So I was fixing the leaky base gasket and dropped the cam pin and circlips in the bottom end. I recovered one circlip with a magnet. I can't be the first one to do this. Can someone can point me it the right direction? Do I have to split the cases now?

There is only 1 circlip on the cam
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:53 AM   #77922
trumposorousrex
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Detroit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
There is only 1 circlip on the cam
Thats good! Only one pin too?

Thanks
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:21 AM   #77923
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
That's all with the same tyre...

I blame the WD40 gluing it to the rim...
So you believe WD-40 breaks down rubber enough to allow it to "vulcanize" the tire to the rim?

I guess that's possible ... but from what I've learned, WD-40 is not known to attack rubber ... and certainly not enough to break it down into a sort of glue. But perhaps with HEAT and PRESSURE ... things change?

Stretch tests have been done on Rubber O rings (Drive chain) that were soaked in WD40 for a week. No negative affect, according to results.

I've really got to buy some of that professional tire mount lube they use in tire shops. I think Napa stores sell a version of it? Good stuff.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:06 AM   #77924
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I've really got to buy some of that professional tire mount lube they use in tire shops. I think Napa stores sell a version of it? Good stuff.
The vegetable based jelly Like Camel "Stuf" or Murphys that you mix with water works good.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:21 AM   #77925
procycle
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I've really got to buy some of that professional tire mount lube they use in tire shops. I think Napa stores sell a version of it? Good stuff.
Any decent motorcycle shop can get it for you. Around here the big auto tire store will give a big scoop of it just for the asking.

I personally like the lube Michelin sells for the bib mousse foam tire inserts.
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