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Old 06-27-2013, 11:55 AM   #78001
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
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My bike did exactly that. My battery cable had come loose.
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:56 AM   #78002
Albie
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Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...



...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave

If that really is your problem then you'll have to buy a whole new ignition. It's riveted and peened together to prevent you from easily getting it apart. Makes sense, why make it easy on thieves.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:06 PM   #78003
andy from MO
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Thayer, MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Barely off idle is the idle fuel screw. Instructions thanks to Jessepitt.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71


THANK YOU!

Now how about a mounting location pic for an FZ-1 Fuzeblock???? Anyone???
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:30 PM   #78004
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...

...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave
As you probably know the DR650 has a couple ignition cut out safety switches: Side Stand, Clutch. I don't know if they have been modified on your bike. If so ... then double check the wiring related to those. The Side Stand wires are a bit vulnerable.

If everything is stock, I would double check all the wires are hooked up, not damaged, frayed or shorting. This will take some time. The way these cut outs work is a bit complicated ... and I don't fully understand the routing required ... but there is more to it than meets the eye.

Before the problem were you able to start your bike with the side stand down? If so ... it's been modified. Were you able to start the bike without pulling clutch IN? Same deal.

I doubt the problem is within the ignition switch itself unless it's been tampered with, but I guess the internal contacts could be worn out?
The Ignition DOES come out. Be aware there is a little Diode underneath it ... without it the bike won't start. (Anti-theft device)
With the ignition out you can turn it over and see that Diode. Check for continuity ... then leave it alone if OK, or replace if not.

The wire bundles going into the ignition may have a broken wire internally. Try wiggling the bundle up near the Ignition.

Check the main fuse too. (under right side panel) Make sure everything there looks OK, no burnt connections or loose wire/connectors.

I pretty much suck at this sort of thing. I would try to find someone who really is good at tracing faults on MC wiring and can read a wiring diagram and who is good with a VOM.
All the best!
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:54 PM   #78005
47flattie
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The same thing happened to my '96 this spring, the battery lead going into the switch broke at the solder joint inside the switch. I bypassed the ign switch with a toggle and a resistor but left the ign switch there to keep the steering lock and a place to store the key for the gas cap.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...



...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:05 PM   #78006
BluesCruiser
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Thanks for your suggestions, and yeah the battery connections were the first thing I checked, too. As I said before, there is power all the way to the switch, but after that absolutely nothing. No lights come on when I turn the key, for example, so I don't think it can be one of the safety cut-outs.

So it is likely to be a fault in that box and not in the key lock itself? Does anyone know what the box is called?

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:14 PM   #78007
bross
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Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Thanks for your suggestions, and yeah the battery connections were the first thing I checked, too. As I said before, there is power all the way to the switch, but after that absolutely nothing. No lights come on when I turn the key, for example, so I don't think it can be one of the safety cut-outs.

So it is likely to be a fault in that box and not in the key lock itself? Does anyone know what the box is called?

Dave
Bike Bandit calls it a lock assembly...


LOCK ASSY,STEER 1074966 $182.75 $141.22

http://www.bikebandit.com/2007-suzuk...0377#sch524462
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:22 PM   #78008
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Thanks for your suggestions, and yeah the battery connections were the first thing I checked, too. As I said before, there is power all the way to the switch, but after that absolutely nothing. No lights come on when I turn the key, for example, so I don't think it can be one of the safety cut-outs.

So it is likely to be a fault in that box and not in the key lock itself? Does anyone know what the box is called?

Dave
That "box" is the IGNITION. It's all ONE piece. So if you do want to take it apart, you pretty much have to BREAK it apart.

So if it is bad, which as most everyone else has pointed out is doubtful, you HAVE TO BUY ANOTHER IGNITION. There's no fixing it.

Here's what it looks like off the bike.



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Old 06-27-2013, 01:32 PM   #78009
Richguzzi
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Ignition

Try spraying some WD40 into the key slot. It's a long shot but I have been able to get a little longer life out of a switch by doing this.
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:44 PM   #78010
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
OK, a hammer to split it apart, then duct tape to put it back together.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:13 PM   #78011
BluesCruiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Try spraying some WD40 into the key slot. It's a long shot but I have been able to get a little longer life out of a switch by doing this.
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
Ha! Hammer after I get it off for sure! As I said, I am SOOOO glad this happened as I was leaving not when I was way off somewhere!!

Thanks for all the tips everyone!

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:19 PM   #78012
MoBill
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Bobzilla might have an ignition switch for his--I saw he eliminated it.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:31 PM   #78013
BluesCruiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Bobzilla might have an ignition switch for his--I saw he eliminated it.
Good suggestion Mo. I'll give him a PM.

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:38 PM   #78014
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by BluesCruiser
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on.

Mine did the same thing one time. There's a big plug under the fuel tank that had managed to get loose.

YMMV
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:41 PM   #78015
8gv
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Shimming the needle...

So the tutorial linked above refers to shimming the needle to get rid of "surging".

What is the definition of "surging"?

My bike comes on really strong from about half throttle and up. By comparison, the first half of the throttle is fairly mild. Would shimming help or must I drill the slide?

Of these two actions, which will hurt my gas mileage more?
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