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Old 06-27-2013, 02:41 PM   #78031
8gv
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
Oddometer: 2,323
Shimming the needle...

So the tutorial linked above refers to shimming the needle to get rid of "surging".

What is the definition of "surging"?

My bike comes on really strong from about half throttle and up. By comparison, the first half of the throttle is fairly mild. Would shimming help or must I drill the slide?

Of these two actions, which will hurt my gas mileage more?
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:15 PM   #78032
kbuckey
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
Oddometer: 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...



...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave
I had similar issues. Checked everything I could but it all pointed to the ignition switch. Got a replacement. All normal.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:41 PM   #78033
yourdrunkdad
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Location: STFU, U NAZI
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Being new to the DR is there anything else besides what We have already discussed that I should look for?
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:46 PM   #78034
refokus
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Location: North Phoenix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow08wrex View Post
Being new to the DR is there anything else besides what We have already discussed that I should look for?
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366046

Read this

The dr650 one of course. It has some great details. Can this thread, lots of good info floating around.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:59 PM   #78035
Thunderjet
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Peyton, CO
Oddometer: 31
Went to the dealers today and looked at a 2013. Count me in! Like the idea it can be dropped and most likely picked back up with very little damage.

Disliked the hard seat and bike was not as tall as I thought it was. If it can be lowered 1.5 inches by the dealer it should be perfect for my 5'10 frame. Since we just moved into a new house and area lots going on this summer so I don't plan on buying one until the end of August then I'll have the winter to add the farkles and break it in on the highway as you can pretty much get out and ride once a week in Colorado even during the winter.

Thunderjet screwed with this post 06-27-2013 at 08:55 PM
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:01 PM   #78036
netsuke
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Melbourne Australia
Oddometer: 36
Can you get rid of the ignition and just conceal an on/off switch somewhere ? I realize the ignition is a kind of on/off switch, but a complicated one with a diode, barrel for the key etc... For me , less wires is better ! Any advice please ?
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:06 PM   #78037
805gregg
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
Oddometer: 1,525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
Went to the dealers today and looked at a 2013. Count me in! Like the idea it can be dropped and most likely picked back up with very little damage.

Disliked the hard seat and bike was not as tall as I thought it was. If it can be lowered 1.5 inches by the dealer it should be perfect for my 5'10 frame. Since we just moved into a new house and area lots going on this summer so I don't plan on buying one until the end of August then I'll have the winter to add the farkles and break it in on the highway as you can pretty much get out and ride once a week in Colorado.
Just find a used one, I got a '96 for $1900, with only 10,000 miles, I'm 5'11 with a short 30" inseam and my DR is just the right height,a Sargent seat will cure the seat problems
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:08 PM   #78038
Andyinhilo
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So the tutorial linked above refers to shimming the needle to get rid of "surging".

What is the definition of "surging"?

My bike comes on really strong from about half throttle and up. By comparison, the first half of the throttle is fairly mild. Would shimming help or must I drill the slide?

Of these two actions, which will hurt my gas mileage more?
The biggest help for what you describe, and for surging, is to get a 14 tooth C/S sprocket. The best way I could define surging is the seems to speed up and slow down almost imperceptibly when you are riding at a constant throttle setting.

The sprocket change eliminated that for me, and adds a bit of yank in the low end. I could not see any difference in the MPG. I did shim the needle and remove the snorkel, and it added a bit more low end response. Again, no measurable change in MPG. Mine almost always gets 50-53.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:13 PM   #78039
8gv
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Location: North central CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
The biggest help for what you describe, and for surging, is to get a 14 tooth C/S sprocket. The best way I could define surging is the seems to speed up and slow down almost imperceptibly when you are riding at a constant throttle setting.

The sprocket change eliminated that for me, and adds a bit of yank in the low end. I could not see any difference in the MPG. I did shim the needle and remove the snorkel, and it added a bit more low end response. Again, no measurable change in MPG. Mine almost always gets 50-53.
I've noticed that while holding it steady at less than half throttle, it feels like I'm lightly pulsing the throttle. I've just today received a 14t sprocket. Does removing the snorkel make it louder or more susceptible to drowning?

50 or better mpg is fine for me.

Thanks
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:17 PM   #78040
ChromeSux
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Lenoir City TN.
Oddometer: 1,408
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So the tutorial linked above refers to shimming the needle to get rid of "surging".

What is the definition of "surging"?

My bike comes on really strong from about half throttle and up. By comparison, the first half of the throttle is fairly mild. Would shimming help or must I drill the slide?

Of these two actions, which will hurt my gas mileage more?
The coming on strong at half throttle has been my experience with stock DR, you can fix this by getting a different needle, moto lab sells the adjustable needle that is a good needle, can be moved up and down, i also have put a DJ needle in and left the stock main jet in, made the bike run real strong at all throttle positions, from right off idle, but fuel mileage was only in the low to mid 40s, probably was a too rich set up, but i did it and liked it.

I would not drill the slide, some do, but i think if you get the needle set up right you may not feel the need to.

I just recently installed the moto lab needle along with a new needle jet, i have not had time to play with the clip positions, jets etc to get it right, will be working on that soon, i hope to get better fuel mileage than the DJ needle and still have the lower end pull i want.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:28 PM   #78041
RideAlongAtlas1
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Australia
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Amateur on soft sand with a dr650

I'm new to motorcycle riding. Bought a new DR650.
Took it for the first time on sand tracks. Here is a short clip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2nMMxCP-Zc
[IMG][/IMG]
I've already dropped my bike twice on sandy patches
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:37 PM   #78042
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by refokus View Post
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366046

Read this

The dr650 one of course. It has some great details. Can this thread, lots of good info floating around.
Here is a better link:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:07 PM   #78043
refokus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Better? Really?
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:08 PM   #78044
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by refokus View Post
Better? Really?
I should have said "more direct".
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:33 PM   #78045
GSF1200S
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Alright, I have ridden from Florida to Alaska and all over here and the Dr has been great to me so far (yes grifter, that means 3rd hasn't blown yet). When I'm back in Florida, I'm considering the 3rd gear swap as I believe that will pretty much eliminate the potential of catastrophe. I could be wrong..

So, since I'm going to tear the motor down, I have some questions for the group. If there is anything I don't like about the Dr, its that it doesn't have enough power on highway. I get it isn't a KTM or beemer, but I have been giving the 790 kit a look. I'm going to be going to south america and I need a reliable setup, so is there any consensus on the 790 effect on durability? I know power isn't free, but I figured I'd ask.

I'm also considering leaving the bore alone and going with an oversized head (pro cycle) and camshaft. I know the power gains are not as much, but I would suspect with larger valves the head should last as long or longer than the stocker and give me a little power in the process.

Fwiw, I have put about 13500 miles on the bike since I left and the valves haven't moved from where I set them. Also, is there some page with all the tricks to making a rear tire last? I will have destroyed a K60 in about 2500 miles, and everything else short of a road tire would be worse. I am very impulsive and turn down dirt trails off main roads frequently, so a road tire is no go. I know of the mefo explorer which I might try, but all the dual sport tires I ruin too quickly. I'm willing to compromise with wet both on street and in dirt so hard compound is no issue.
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