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Old 06-27-2013, 11:54 AM   #78046
47flattie
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Wausau WI
Oddometer: 5
The same thing happened to my '96 this spring, the battery lead going into the switch broke at the solder joint inside the switch. I bypassed the ign switch with a toggle and a resistor but left the ign switch there to keep the steering lock and a place to store the key for the gas cap.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...



...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:05 PM   #78047
BluesCruiser
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Thanks for your suggestions, and yeah the battery connections were the first thing I checked, too. As I said before, there is power all the way to the switch, but after that absolutely nothing. No lights come on when I turn the key, for example, so I don't think it can be one of the safety cut-outs.

So it is likely to be a fault in that box and not in the key lock itself? Does anyone know what the box is called?

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:14 PM   #78048
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Thanks for your suggestions, and yeah the battery connections were the first thing I checked, too. As I said before, there is power all the way to the switch, but after that absolutely nothing. No lights come on when I turn the key, for example, so I don't think it can be one of the safety cut-outs.

So it is likely to be a fault in that box and not in the key lock itself? Does anyone know what the box is called?

Dave
Bike Bandit calls it a lock assembly...


LOCK ASSY,STEER 1074966 $182.75 $141.22

http://www.bikebandit.com/2007-suzuk...0377#sch524462
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:22 PM   #78049
Albie
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Location: Upstate SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Thanks for your suggestions, and yeah the battery connections were the first thing I checked, too. As I said before, there is power all the way to the switch, but after that absolutely nothing. No lights come on when I turn the key, for example, so I don't think it can be one of the safety cut-outs.

So it is likely to be a fault in that box and not in the key lock itself? Does anyone know what the box is called?

Dave
That "box" is the IGNITION. It's all ONE piece. So if you do want to take it apart, you pretty much have to BREAK it apart.

So if it is bad, which as most everyone else has pointed out is doubtful, you HAVE TO BUY ANOTHER IGNITION. There's no fixing it.

Here's what it looks like off the bike.



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Old 06-27-2013, 12:32 PM   #78050
Richguzzi
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Ignition

Try spraying some WD40 into the key slot. It's a long shot but I have been able to get a little longer life out of a switch by doing this.
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:44 PM   #78051
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
OK, a hammer to split it apart, then duct tape to put it back together.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:13 PM   #78052
BluesCruiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Try spraying some WD40 into the key slot. It's a long shot but I have been able to get a little longer life out of a switch by doing this.
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
Ha! Hammer after I get it off for sure! As I said, I am SOOOO glad this happened as I was leaving not when I was way off somewhere!!

Thanks for all the tips everyone!

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:19 PM   #78053
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Bobzilla might have an ignition switch for his--I saw he eliminated it.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:31 PM   #78054
BluesCruiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Bobzilla might have an ignition switch for his--I saw he eliminated it.
Good suggestion Mo. I'll give him a PM.

Dave
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:38 PM   #78055
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by BluesCruiser
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on.

Mine did the same thing one time. There's a big plug under the fuel tank that had managed to get loose.

YMMV
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:41 PM   #78056
8gv
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Shimming the needle...

So the tutorial linked above refers to shimming the needle to get rid of "surging".

What is the definition of "surging"?

My bike comes on really strong from about half throttle and up. By comparison, the first half of the throttle is fairly mild. Would shimming help or must I drill the slide?

Of these two actions, which will hurt my gas mileage more?
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:15 PM   #78057
kbuckey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesCruiser View Post
Tried to start my 2000 last weekend. Turned on the key and all the usual lights came on, then hit the starter and everything went dead; no lights even when the key is on. At least it happened in the driveway and not way the heck up some forest road with no cell coverage!

I figured it had to be some fuze somewhere. Tore into it this morning and everything looks OK. Battery is hot and no burned fuzes. Pulled the tank and started tracing the wires, and as far as I can tell I have 12v all the way to here...



...but nothing after that!

The hot wire from the battery is in the bundle that goes into that (dirty) gray box under the keyed switch, right under that square boss on the side. I am guessing something bad has happened inside. Have any of you run into this on your DR? Any tips on getting to that box and checking it out?

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Dave
I had similar issues. Checked everything I could but it all pointed to the ignition switch. Got a replacement. All normal.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:41 PM   #78058
yourdrunkdad
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Being new to the DR is there anything else besides what We have already discussed that I should look for?
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:46 PM   #78059
refokus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow08wrex View Post
Being new to the DR is there anything else besides what We have already discussed that I should look for?
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366046

Read this

The dr650 one of course. It has some great details. Can this thread, lots of good info floating around.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:59 PM   #78060
Thunderjet
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Went to the dealers today and looked at a 2013. Count me in! Like the idea it can be dropped and most likely picked back up with very little damage.

Disliked the hard seat and bike was not as tall as I thought it was. If it can be lowered 1.5 inches by the dealer it should be perfect for my 5'10 frame. Since we just moved into a new house and area lots going on this summer so I don't plan on buying one until the end of August then I'll have the winter to add the farkles and break it in on the highway as you can pretty much get out and ride once a week in Colorado even during the winter.

Thunderjet screwed with this post 06-27-2013 at 07:55 PM
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