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Old 06-27-2013, 05:08 PM   #78046
Andyinhilo
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Hilo, Hawaii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So the tutorial linked above refers to shimming the needle to get rid of "surging".

What is the definition of "surging"?

My bike comes on really strong from about half throttle and up. By comparison, the first half of the throttle is fairly mild. Would shimming help or must I drill the slide?

Of these two actions, which will hurt my gas mileage more?
The biggest help for what you describe, and for surging, is to get a 14 tooth C/S sprocket. The best way I could define surging is the seems to speed up and slow down almost imperceptibly when you are riding at a constant throttle setting.

The sprocket change eliminated that for me, and adds a bit of yank in the low end. I could not see any difference in the MPG. I did shim the needle and remove the snorkel, and it added a bit more low end response. Again, no measurable change in MPG. Mine almost always gets 50-53.
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:13 PM   #78047
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
The biggest help for what you describe, and for surging, is to get a 14 tooth C/S sprocket. The best way I could define surging is the seems to speed up and slow down almost imperceptibly when you are riding at a constant throttle setting.

The sprocket change eliminated that for me, and adds a bit of yank in the low end. I could not see any difference in the MPG. I did shim the needle and remove the snorkel, and it added a bit more low end response. Again, no measurable change in MPG. Mine almost always gets 50-53.
I've noticed that while holding it steady at less than half throttle, it feels like I'm lightly pulsing the throttle. I've just today received a 14t sprocket. Does removing the snorkel make it louder or more susceptible to drowning?

50 or better mpg is fine for me.

Thanks
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:17 PM   #78048
ChromeSux
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Lenoir City TN.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So the tutorial linked above refers to shimming the needle to get rid of "surging".

What is the definition of "surging"?

My bike comes on really strong from about half throttle and up. By comparison, the first half of the throttle is fairly mild. Would shimming help or must I drill the slide?

Of these two actions, which will hurt my gas mileage more?
The coming on strong at half throttle has been my experience with stock DR, you can fix this by getting a different needle, moto lab sells the adjustable needle that is a good needle, can be moved up and down, i also have put a DJ needle in and left the stock main jet in, made the bike run real strong at all throttle positions, from right off idle, but fuel mileage was only in the low to mid 40s, probably was a too rich set up, but i did it and liked it.

I would not drill the slide, some do, but i think if you get the needle set up right you may not feel the need to.

I just recently installed the moto lab needle along with a new needle jet, i have not had time to play with the clip positions, jets etc to get it right, will be working on that soon, i hope to get better fuel mileage than the DJ needle and still have the lower end pull i want.
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:28 PM   #78049
RideAlongAtlas1
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Australia
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Amateur on soft sand with a dr650

I'm new to motorcycle riding. Bought a new DR650.
Took it for the first time on sand tracks. Here is a short clip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2nMMxCP-Zc
[IMG][/IMG]
I've already dropped my bike twice on sandy patches
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:37 PM   #78050
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by refokus View Post
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366046

Read this

The dr650 one of course. It has some great details. Can this thread, lots of good info floating around.
Here is a better link:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:07 PM   #78051
refokus
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Location: North Phoenix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Better? Really?
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:08 PM   #78052
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by refokus View Post
Better? Really?
I should have said "more direct".
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:33 PM   #78053
GSF1200S
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Alright, I have ridden from Florida to Alaska and all over here and the Dr has been great to me so far (yes grifter, that means 3rd hasn't blown yet). When I'm back in Florida, I'm considering the 3rd gear swap as I believe that will pretty much eliminate the potential of catastrophe. I could be wrong..

So, since I'm going to tear the motor down, I have some questions for the group. If there is anything I don't like about the Dr, its that it doesn't have enough power on highway. I get it isn't a KTM or beemer, but I have been giving the 790 kit a look. I'm going to be going to south america and I need a reliable setup, so is there any consensus on the 790 effect on durability? I know power isn't free, but I figured I'd ask.

I'm also considering leaving the bore alone and going with an oversized head (pro cycle) and camshaft. I know the power gains are not as much, but I would suspect with larger valves the head should last as long or longer than the stocker and give me a little power in the process.

Fwiw, I have put about 13500 miles on the bike since I left and the valves haven't moved from where I set them. Also, is there some page with all the tricks to making a rear tire last? I will have destroyed a K60 in about 2500 miles, and everything else short of a road tire would be worse. I am very impulsive and turn down dirt trails off main roads frequently, so a road tire is no go. I know of the mefo explorer which I might try, but all the dual sport tires I ruin too quickly. I'm willing to compromise with wet both on street and in dirt so hard compound is no issue.
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:53 PM   #78054
refokus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I should have said "more direct".
I'm just yanking your chain
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:54 PM   #78055
Escaped
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Also, is there some page with all the tricks to making a rear tire last? I will have destroyed a K60 in about 2500 miles, and everything else short of a road tire would be worse. I am very impulsive and turn down dirt trails off main roads frequently, so a road tire is no go. I know of the mefo explorer which I might try, but all the dual sport tires I ruin too quickly. I'm willing to compromise with wet both on street and in dirt so hard compound is no issue.
For long life and reasonable performance, I really like the Metzeler Tourance (130 / 80 on the rear) tires on the DR650. I think because they are designed for the big dual sports they give extra long like on the DR. Negatives are that they are expensive and very difficult to change in the "Field".

I hate to even mention it (because its hard to believe) but I have put over 14,000 miles on each of my last two sets.

43,000 miles now on my 2006 DR650
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:55 PM   #78056
Thunderjet
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MSRP is $6,399 for a 2013. Suzuki is tossing in $400 in bonus cash. Apply the bonus cash to the $6,399 and offer the dealer $5,800 cash OTD not counting taxes.
What do you think? To much? To little?
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:01 PM   #78057
Escaped
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If you can afford it, go for it! Yea you could find a used one but ....

I bought my 2006 new in 2006 - out the door for 5,000 including everyting - who says there is no inflation . 43,000 fun filled miles so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
MSRP is $6,399 for a 2013. Suzuki is tossing in $400 in bonus cash. Apply the bonus cash to the $6,399 and offer the dealer $5,800 cash OTD not counting taxes.
What do you think? To much? To little?
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:03 PM   #78058
yourdrunkdad
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Ok seems to be problem solved, Set the needle to 4th up re jetted to 150. Surge is GONE and she seems to run great. I went for a short ride and pulled a plug. She looked beautiful. I will be riding her to Sturgis tomorrow and will pull a plug then. Taking the jets and all tools with me just in case.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:09 PM   #78059
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
MSRP is $6,399 for a 2013. Suzuki is tossing in $400 in bonus cash. Apply the bonus cash to the $6,399 and offer the dealer $5,800 cash OTD not counting taxes.
What do you think? To much? To little?
IMO, buy the 5 year unlimited mileage warranty. I think its 500, so all the above you mentioned plus 500 so, 6300 OTD.

I do think whether to get the warranty depends on the mileage you will put on it.

Consider this (and im not saying this is right, but possible): buy a new DR650, farkle it but leave the motor alone. Jet it for snorkle removed and shim the needle, but keep the airbox the same so it can go back to stock quickly. Then, put bags on it and literally ride around the entire world on it. 70000 miles and 3 years later, you are back in the states. Ride the piss out of it until it blows, then tow it to the suzuki dealer and have them rebuild it for free. Bam. Two DR650s for the price of one. Even any bearings or whatever that goes out until the 5 years would be covered.

This is abusing the system though, and im not sure I could do it myself. Id prolly buy used for ~$3500 and just write it off as an expense for the trip.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:28 PM   #78060
Thunderjet
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Not sure the bike would require any rejetting off the bat since I live at 7,000 feet and ride up to 12,000. If the stock bike is jetted lean at sea level then she should be a tad richer at our riding altitudes.
Perhaps some Colorado riders can chime in about the jetting.

Doubt I would get the extended warranty as I have to many toys to play with and none see that much mileage in a year. About the most I've ridden a bike in one year was 8,000 miles and that included a trip to Kentucky to buy a new Goldwing which I rode back to Alaska when I lived there. On an average year 2,000-3,000 miles per bike, tops.

Thunderjet screwed with this post 06-27-2013 at 09:39 PM
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