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Old 06-27-2013, 09:35 PM   #78061
GrubHub
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Old Thread with GReat new Info for me

Thanks a million for the details on DIY revamping a Suzuki Dr 650 seat. Got this at the top of my bucket list.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:38 PM   #78062
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Laugh Get it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
MSRP is $6,399 for a 2013. Suzuki is tossing in $400 in bonus cash. Apply the bonus cash to the $6,399 and offer the dealer $5,800 cash OTD not counting taxes.
What do you think? To much? To little?
Picked up a new dr 650 2 weeks ago for 5900 plus tax, etc. Funnest toy ever, planes included!
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:39 PM   #78063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
Not sure the bike would require any rejetting off the bat since I live at 7,000 feet and ride up to 12,000. If the stock bike is jetted lean at sea level then she should be a tad richer at our riding altitudes.
Perhaps some Colorado riders can chime in about the jetting.
I rode my 96 DR650 through CO a few years back and it ran perfect out there even though it always ran lean back in the midwest. Less oxygen with the same amount of fuel gives a richer mixture and it ran great even up on pikes peak at over 14,000 feet. Never did re-jet it going through CO like I expected.

I think you might be fine but you may still have to shim the needle up a bit.

andy from MO screwed with this post 06-27-2013 at 09:56 PM
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:41 PM   #78064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrubHub View Post
Picked up a new dr 650 2 weeks ago for 5900 plus tax, etc. Funnest toy ever, planes included!
2013 I assume?
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:52 PM   #78065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Barely off idle is the idle fuel screw. Instructions thanks to Jessepitt.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71


Thanks so much for the link! $0.18 for 2 stainless washers to shim the stock needle up a bit and surge is totally cured!!! About 30 minutes and $0.18 and PROBLEM SOLVED!

I've never been one to make a bike overly rich.....I like the 60 mpg or so with this new 2012 and my previous 1996. I'll give you an update on what 2 small washers to shim the needle up will cost me in fuel mileage. I expect about 2-3 mpg but hopefully less.

PS- I left stock idle setting alone and stock main jet alone. 1 washer helped but didn't totally eliminate the surge....2 did the trick! I'll measure the thickness of the washers with micrometer tomorrow. Thanks again guys and gals!

andy from MO screwed with this post 06-27-2013 at 10:03 PM
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:02 PM   #78066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
MSRP is $6,399 for a 2013. Suzuki is tossing in $400 in bonus cash. Apply the bonus cash to the $6,399 and offer the dealer $5,800 cash OTD not counting taxes.
What do you think? To much? To little?
Take advantage of the 0% for 5 years too if they're still offering it!

I gave $5149 out the door for my new 2012 on March 14th, 2013! ....0% for 5 years and nothing down equals about $85 /month. That's hard to beat in my opinion. I've already saved enough in gas to make the payments plus some!
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:17 PM   #78067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy from MO View Post
I purchased a new 2012 in March 2013 for my own birthday present!!! I'm loving the bike except for the off idle lean sputter. I haven't yet started to tackle that. It's fine at idle and fine in the upper 15/16ths of the throttle....just the first little bit it runs way lean.... PS...don't really want to do a full airbox, jetkit, kinda deal...I just want that tiny off idle lean spot fixed. The rest is fine.

So anyway, after some searching I decided to go with the Fuzeblock FZ1. Now I'm struggling to find a good place to locate it. Anyone got pictures of their setup?
OK SOOOO.....Off idle surge cured with 2 $0.09 stainless washers to shim the needle up.....NOW back to the other question....:

Does anyone have pics of where they mounted an FZ-1 Fuzeblock. Also general Dash / Cockpit pics would be nice to see as well. Thanks!
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:25 PM   #78068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Try spraying some WD40 into the key slot. It's a long shot but I have been able to get a little longer life out of a switch by doing this.
And remember if it can't be fixed with a hammer or ductape it's definatly an electrical problem.
Might try some Electronic Contact Spray in it somehow.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:36 PM   #78069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
For long life and reasonable performance, I really like the Metzeler Tourance (130 / 80 on the rear) tires on the DR650. I think because they are designed for the big dual sports they give extra long like on the DR. Negatives are that they are expensive and very difficult to change in the "Field".

I hate to even mention it (because its hard to believe) but I have put over 14,000 miles on each of my last two sets.

43,000 miles now on my 2006 DR650
That is impressive mileage! I've never run a Tourance on a DR but have done on my former Vstrom and lots of GS buddies run them. I always "guesti-mate" mileage for the Tourance run on a DR at around 9 to 10,000 miles on the rear tire, this based on how far you can go on a GS or Vstrom. 14,000 is incredible. What is your average highway cruising speed?

Even at the high cost, that sort of life makes it worth while ... especially on a long tour where you do NOT want to pack a tire or change mid way. But
God forbid you get a flat. If the Tourance is anything like a Avon Distanzia, breaking the bead is not easy. But maybe you can just ride it flat to Alaska?
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:49 PM   #78070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
IMO, buy the 5 year unlimited mileage warranty. I think its 500, so all the above you mentioned plus 500 so, 6300 OTD.
I do think whether to get the warranty depends on the mileage you will put on it.

Consider this (and im not saying this is right, but possible): buy a new DR650, farkle it but leave the motor alone. Jet it for snorkle removed and shim the needle, but keep the airbox the same so it can go back to stock quickly. Then, put bags on it and literally ride around the entire world on it. 70000 miles and 3 years later, you are back in the states. Ride the piss out of it until it blows, then tow it to the suzuki dealer and have them rebuild it for free. Bam. Two DR650s for the price of one. Even any bearings or whatever that goes out until the 5 years would be covered.

This is abusing the system though, and im not sure I could do it myself. Id prolly buy used for ~$3500 and just write it off as an expense for the trip.
That strategy has worked well for BMW riding friends. The standard BMW warranty is 3 years. They bought extended warranties, adding another 4 years. So many things have failed on those R1200GS's, that they've come out quite well money wise. (broken luggage, final drive, wheel, shock, ABS computer, CAN Bus. But it does not cover everything ... like warped rotors. They managed about 60K miles, then they got tired of the bikes. One bought a KTM990, the other a Triumph Explorer.

Plus, once on an after market warranty, they fight you on every single repair. PITA.

That strategy may be less likely to work on a Suzuki ... they just don't break as much. Still, a long warranty does give peace of mind.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:53 PM   #78071
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Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
Just find a used one, I got a '96 for $1900, with only 10,000 miles, I'm 5'11 with a short 30" inseam and my DR is just the right height,a Sargent seat will cure the seat problems
I bought (ok....stole from a friend deal) my 1996 about 4 years ago for $1300 with 1800 miles on it and it was bone stock. It's suspension was better than my new 2012 although I'm not complaining about my 2012. I sold it to another friend a few years later for $1800 with a custom seat and BBQ rack on it and it had about 8000 miles. I ended up buying a new one but buying used is a great way to go and I think $1900 for a 96 with 10k is a pretty good way to start out!
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:19 PM   #78072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
MSRP is $6,399 for a 2013. Suzuki is tossing in $400 in bonus cash. Apply the bonus cash to the $6,399 and offer the dealer $5,800 cash OTD not counting taxes.
What do you think? To much? To little?
In October 2012 I paid $11,000 for my DR, but it did come with some factory Suzuki extras.

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Hesaid screwed with this post 06-28-2013 at 09:58 AM
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:28 PM   #78073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
That strategy has worked well for BMW riding friends. The standard BMW warranty is 3 years. They bought extended warranties, adding another 4 years. So many things have failed on those R1200GS's, that they've come out quite well money wise. (broken luggage, final drive, wheel, shock, ABS computer, CAN Bus. But it does not cover everything ... like warped rotors. They managed about 60K miles, then they got tired of the bikes. One bought a KTM990, the other a Triumph Explorer.

Plus, once on an after market warranty, they fight you on every single repair. PITA.

That strategy may be less likely to work on a Suzuki ... they just don't break as much. Still, a long warranty does give peace of mind.
I thought the warranty does not cover normal wear and tear?
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:47 PM   #78074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
That "box" is the IGNITION. It's all ONE piece. So if you do want to take it apart, you pretty much have to BREAK it apart.

So if it is bad, which as most everyone else has pointed out is doubtful, you HAVE TO BUY ANOTHER IGNITION. There's no fixing it.

Here's what it looks like off the bike.



its not ONE piece. theres about a million pieces inside there. i had a problem with mine a couple of years back and it turned out to be dirty contacts inside this box. pull the two little rubber/plastic caps off that sit about halfway down the body and use the right torx bit (or cut a slot in the head of the torx bit and use a flathead screwdriver) to remove the fasteners. that box will fall apart in your hands and youll be bale to check the internal contacts at least. it can probably come apart more but i had no need so cleaned up the terminals and bolted it all back together, no more problems.

when you loose your bike keys in indonesia its possible to have the ignition barrel broken down so far that the guys will replace the internal pins and cut you a brand new key to suit it or cut you a new key to suit your old pins. we in the west have too much money to spend our time on things like this and just throw shit away thats only half broken
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:16 AM   #78075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
What is your average highway cruising speed?

Even at the high cost, that sort of life makes it worth while ... especially on a long tour where you do NOT want to pack a tire or change mid way. But
God forbid you get a flat. If the Tourance is anything like a Avon Distanzia, breaking the bead is not easy. But maybe you can just ride it flat to Alaska?
Unfortunately most of my mileage is commuting. my daily speed ranges from 0 to 85 miles per hour indicated with a fair amount of daily miles "splitting" at around 20mph."
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