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Old 07-08-2013, 07:45 PM   #78451
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'm assuming you've got the stock DID O ring chain on your bike now? If so, 14K in the conditions ridden IMHO, very good! Changing sprockets helps. My original chain only went about 12K and hardly any dirt or abuse.

It is ... IMHO ... well worth it to spring for a high quality DID X Ring chain. DID recently came out with a new line of X ring chains and I've not used one. I think the new ZVM series is slightly lighter duty than previous product. (525 VM-2)

I've used their previous 525, VM-2, X ring Gold chain on several bikes, over 200,000 miles. (Tiger 885, Vstrom, DR650) I got 25,000 miles on ALL my VM-2 DID X ring chains ... and never really managed to wear one out! It's a great chain, and next to stock you can easily see the difference. The X ring is a hunky thing by comparison. They really never stretch.

You may find the old VM-2 chain still in stock at some dealers but it's mostly discontinued and the new ZVM and VX Pro have replaced the VM-2. Try Pro Cycle, TPI, Keintech, Bike Bandit. Someone may still have the VM-2 in stock.

If not, go with the new DID X rings (ZVM or VX Pro). All are good and will last substantially longer than your original O ring chain. A Rivet link is highly recommended. DID now sell a complete KIT, with sprockets included. No idea if they are any good. I prefer OEM Suzuki sprockets because they seem to last longest.

Trans Fluid is a good lube but does not stay on long. Flys off. Bel Ray product is NOT GOOD IMO. Does not lube and collects grit. NO sticky lube for me. Trans fluid using an Auto Oiler like a Scott or other oiler is good for touring. Makes a mess but perfect for long rides in rain and such.

On the road I use 90 wt. gear oil and wipe down daily and re-oil. Cheap and excellent. Off road ... NO oil at all. Just clean with WD40 daily and wipe down. Change front sprocket at around 8K miles.
No, this IS a vx2 x ring chain! I have been very good with chain maintenance and I have used the belray stuff because it seems to be everywhere. To clean I've used kerosene when possible and diesel when not. There is no doubt however that it is shot.. clearly kinking.

I always lube on a hot chain, and I do not skip days. I guess I wonder how it managed to do so poorly. It has to be my fault because the chain is legendary. What is really good "lube" for off road scenarios? I don't like oilers specifically due to how they act off road.

I don't want to blame the chain lube and the calcium chloride shit on the dalton.. but I do want to
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:07 PM   #78452
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
No, this IS a vx2 x ring chain! I have been very good with chain maintenance and I have used the belray stuff because it seems to be everywhere. To clean I've used kerosene when possible and diesel when not. There is no doubt however that it is shot.. clearly kinking.

I always lube on a hot chain, and I do not skip days. I guess I wonder how it managed to do so poorly. It has to be my fault because the chain is legendary. What is really good "lube" for off road scenarios? I don't like oilers specifically due to how they act off road.

I don't want to blame the chain lube and the calcium chloride shit on the dalton.. but I do want to
Wow! I'm surprised the VM-2 crapped out on you so early! Bel Ray really sucks. So that could be part of the problem ... calcium chloride? Dunno.
Kero and Diesel are perfect cleaners.

Any chance you could be running your chain a bit too tight? About the only thing I can think of? Kinking is not good. Definite sign the end is near.
How far does the chain pull off the rear sprocket? That is another good measurement of wear.

I've positively hammered my DID's but I've NOT RIDDEN AS MUCH OFF ROAD, MUD, SAND AS YOU HAVE. IMO, that must be the difference. Of the 25K miles X 2 ... I've done on my two DID VM-2's on my DR, only about 3 or 4K miles was off road ... and most of that was dry sand, dirt, Desert.
I only rode some mud in Utah and Colorado, maybe 1000 miles worth total on my two rides out there.

I don't know what to suggest. The DID's are the best chains I've ever found.

Don't blame you for avoiding Auto oilers off road. The pros run NO LUBE AT ALL off road. But they can afford to put on a new chain/sprockets at every pit stop! We can't do that. But generally speaking I must say I've had the very best results with long lasting chains off road running NO LUBE at all. NO ... they won't match road going miles ... but do better than with a bunch of lube mixed up with sand. Run it dry. Wipe down and clean when you can ... especially after water crossings. Hope you can find something reasonable up in AK. Let us know what you end up with!
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:08 PM   #78453
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
No, this IS a vx2 x ring chain! I have been very good with chain maintenance and I have used the belray stuff because it seems to be everywhere. To clean I've used kerosene when possible and diesel when not. There is no doubt however that it is shot.. clearly kinking.

I always lube on a hot chain, and I do not skip days. I guess I wonder how it managed to do so poorly. It has to be my fault because the chain is legendary. What is really good "lube" for off road scenarios? I don't like oilers specifically due to how they act off road.

I don't want to blame the chain lube and the calcium chloride shit on the dalton.. but I do want to
I got many thousands of miles after my chain started kinking. I asked a friend about the kinking on his KTM chain, "So what?" was his reply.

When my chain needed to be adjusted after each of 3 or 4 consecutive 200 mile rides, I replaced it.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:19 PM   #78454
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Wow! I'm surprised the VM-2 crapped out on you so early! Bel Ray really sucks. So that could be part of the problem ... calcium chloride? Dunno.
Kero and Diesel are perfect cleaners.

Any chance you could be running your chain a bit too tight? About the only thing I can think of? Kinking is not good. Definite sign the end is near.
How far does the chain pull off the rear sprocket? That is another good measurement of wear.

I've positively hammered my DID's but I've NOT RIDDEN AS MUCH OFF ROAD, MUD, SAND AS YOU HAVE. IMO, that must be the difference. Of the 25K miles X 2 ... I've done on my two DID VM-2's on my DR, only about 3 or 4K miles was off road ... and most of that was dry sand, dirt, Desert.
I only rode some mud in Utah and Colorado, maybe 1000 miles worth total on my two rides out there.

I don't know what to suggest. The DID's are the best chains I've ever found.

Don't blame you for avoiding Auto oilers off road. The pros run NO LUBE AT ALL off road. But they can afford to put on a new chain/sprockets at every pit stop! We can't do that. But generally speaking I must say I've had the very best results with long lasting chains off road running NO LUBE at all. NO ... they won't match road going miles ... but do better than with a bunch of lube mixed up with sand. Run it dry. Wipe down and clean when you can ... especially after water crossings. Hope you can find something reasonable up in AK. Let us know what you end up with!
This is why I'm thinking ATF fluid in a squirt bottle might be great. I have keintechs simple stand and it takes me seconds to get the rear wheel off the ground and spinning. If atf fluid cleans lubes, but must be put on a lot, it would be perfect for off road. Once I hit off road, stop lubing until I get back on road again, yeah?

This trip has had a lot of rain (but not in Alaska! Go figure ), mud, sand, etc.. but I still think it must be either me or the lube I used. I think I'm going to carry a small squirt bottle of diesel and a small squirt bottle of atf fluid and see how it goes.

Yeah, I won't buy anything but an o ring chain. If its cheap but alright quality I'll have a DID waiting in Montana. If I can't get decent quality, I'll wait here for one to be shipped. I'm going to remove my current chain (clip type) and SOAK it overnight in kerosene and see if it loosens up. It has just stretched for the first time after break in which is usually the sign of the end
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:21 PM   #78455
GSF1200S
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I got many thousands of miles after my chain started kinking. I asked a friend about the kinking on his KTM chain, "So what?" was his reply.

When my chain needed to be adjusted after each of 3 or 4 consecutive 200 mile rides, I replaced it.
I have heard some don't care, but I have also heard that snapped chains can be very bad. I'm headed down into Yukon and besides Whitehorse the next nearest sign of any society is Prince George BC. I guess I don't want to take the risk..
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:33 PM   #78456
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Originally Posted by Indytriumph View Post
Tell me more about the lights and what wind screen is that?

Tom
I bought the fairing and lights as a package deal from Advmonster. Lights are M60 with a rotary dimmer for the driving light. This is a totally plug and play set up. Flick on the high beams and you are going to see what is ahead of you for a good long while. Fairing does a good job of knocking down turbulent air and cleaning the air around your head up. I fully endorse this set up. Well done.

Here is a link for more info.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=766161
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:34 PM   #78457
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Cry Cracked frame repair DR650SE

Hi guys and girls,

I have already performed a search on this and I have yet to find any real information regarding in depth weld repairs and frame composition for the DR650SE.

My DR has developed a crack in the frame, just above the swingarm pivot point.

I know how to weld and have access to my own equipment. I want to perform a repair which I will be documenting on these forums and youtube; as a guide to the people who have suffered from this problem and would like to perform a permanent weld repair.

This is very important to me as I use my bike for courier work and fun, she is my only form of transport and everyday I am off the road I am loosing serious money.

Could anyone please clarify to me what metal the DR's (SE model) frame is made from? As far as I can tell it's made from steel (Mild perhaps?) but I am unsure as to wether it is alloyed with anything else i.e: Molybdenum. If anyone has had any sort of experience at welding on these frames could they please come forward and shed some much needed expertise on the matter.

Much, much appreciated!

PAT
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:06 PM   #78458
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Runs like poo whenever there's water involved?!?! wtf?

I'm a bit stumped here...

So, whenever the bike gets drenched from either riding through deep puddles or it starts raining... the bike runs like (for lack of a better word) poo! It backfires like crazy when the throttle is released, it dies when left at idle for more than 5 seconds, and it has about 40% of its power until it dries up and then everything goes back to normal again. What the heck could be causing this? Is it inhaling water maybe? or something electrical? Any help would be appreciated.

*Edit: it has the pumper TM40 carb on it.

Thank you.
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"'Any bike's subframe is liable to crack with the extra weight of the luggage when travelling on corrugated dirt roads,' it said somewhere. Hmm, I thought... mental note: Strengthen subframe. Second mental note: Find out what subframe is." - Lois Pryce

Samford screwed with this post 07-08-2013 at 10:38 PM
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:14 PM   #78459
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggsontoast View Post
Hi guys and girls,

.................................................. .............

Much, much appreciated!

PAT
It's a DR, made out of mild steel, weld it, ride it, don't jump it.
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2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:47 PM   #78460
panhead_pete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammalamma View Post
I'm a bit stumped here...

So, whenever the bike gets drenched from either riding through deep puddles or it starts raining... the bike runs like (for lack of a better word) poo! It backfires like crazy when the throttle is released, it dies when left at idle for more than 5 seconds, and it has about 40% of its power until it dries up and then everything goes back to normal again. What the heck could be causing this? Is it inhaling water maybe? or something electrical? Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.
Have you re-routed the carb breather lines back up to the airbox?
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:02 PM   #78461
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I got many thousands of miles after my chain started kinking. I asked a friend about the kinking on his KTM chain, "So what?" was his reply.

When my chain needed to be adjusted after each of 3 or 4 consecutive 200 mile rides, I replaced it.
Kinking can sometimes be an early sign of wear. But sometimes kinks can be made to go away with good cleaning with Kerosene or WD40. Off road bikes develop kinks much earlier. If the kinks persist it's good indication you are about 4000 miles away from a new chain. (that is, on the fabulous DID VM-2 X ring chain) Other chains? A 1000 miles until it will be gone. I've never had a VM-2 stretch much. Maybe ONE adjustment in 25,000 miles. NONE of mine were really shot and I only replaced them as I had some big ride coming up. In Mexico or India ... my old chains would be kept in service another 10,000 miles easy.

Never start a long ride on a marginal chain/sprockets. Chapter ONE Page ONE of ADV 101 !
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:04 PM   #78462
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggsontoast View Post
Hi guys and girls,

I have already performed a search on this and I have yet to find any real information regarding in depth weld repairs and frame composition for the DR650SE.

My DR has developed a crack in the frame, just above the swingarm pivot point.

I know how to weld and have access to my own equipment. I want to perform a repair which I will be documenting on these forums and youtube; as a guide to the people who have suffered from this problem and would like to perform a permanent weld repair.

This is very important to me as I use my bike for courier work and fun, she is my only form of transport and everyday I am off the road I am loosing serious money.

Could anyone please clarify to me what metal the DR's (SE model) frame is made from? As far as I can tell it's made from steel (Mild perhaps?) but I am unsure as to wether it is alloyed with anything else i.e: Molybdenum. If anyone has had any sort of experience at welding on these frames could they please come forward and shed some much needed expertise on the matter.

Much, much appreciated!

PAT
What part of Australia are you from mate? (PS: The DR is not a Moto Cross bike ... or a Dakar Racer! )
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:37 PM   #78463
Samford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead_pete View Post
Have you re-routed the carb breather lines back up to the airbox?
I'm sorry. I suppose I should have been more detailed... It has the pumper TM40 carb on it which got rid of that big breather hose.

My guess is I'm missing something and the carb is taking in water somewhere...
__________________
"'Any bike's subframe is liable to crack with the extra weight of the luggage when travelling on corrugated dirt roads,' it said somewhere. Hmm, I thought... mental note: Strengthen subframe. Second mental note: Find out what subframe is." - Lois Pryce
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:57 PM   #78464
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It's my guess that you need to put a tee in the float bowl vent, one going down behind the engine and the other going up the frame backbone. If you get just a splash of water in the vent as it is now, there isn't enough float bowl vacuum to pull the water bubble out of the vent. It's a common carb issue and more troublesome for those who can't keep their bikes out of the river.

I was doing a familiar muddy water crossing today but somewhere about half way across, my front tire dropped another 8-10", submerging the front tire; deepest it's ever been. Not even a hiccup from the mighty DR.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:03 PM   #78465
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Kinking can sometimes be an early sign of wear. But sometimes kinks can be made to go away with good cleaning with Kerosene or WD40. Off road bikes develop kinks much earlier. If the kinks persist it's good indication you are about 4000 miles away from a new chain. (that is, on the fabulous DID VM-2 X ring chain) Other chains? A 1000 miles until it will be gone. I've never had a VM-2 stretch much. Maybe ONE adjustment in 25,000 miles. NONE of mine were really shot and I only replaced them as I had some big ride coming up. In Mexico or India ... my old chains would be kept in service another 10,000 miles easy.

Never start a long ride on a marginal chain/sprockets. Chapter ONE Page ONE of ADV 101 !
My chain was brand new when I left. I've just done 14k miles on this trip! Maybe I need to just soak it in kerosene and clean the shit out of it and trust it? It does seem really soon but i need to be careful..

I'm kinda trying to get a consensus here . Maybe buy a new chain and carry it with me? I just don't want it to snap on me
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