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Old 07-17-2013, 09:11 AM   #78781
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
THere's something to it--we used to send oil samples out on our diesel 12cyl M60 tank engines regularly--it's a huge predictor--for instance, that 3rd gear issue these can have--any of that possible to foresee?
Well ill keep and eye on the iron levels I have thought of that.


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Old 07-17-2013, 09:16 AM   #78782
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all this oil talk is makin' me itchy.

I hate oil changes. Messy. Always end up with some on me and some on the garage floor.

The price of motorcycle oils makes me sick. almost as bad as when I go to the grocery store and see the price of food!
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:22 AM   #78783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
THere's something to it--we used to send oil samples out on our diesel 12cyl M60 tank engines regularly--it's a huge predictor--for instance, that 3rd gear issue these can have--any of that possible to foresee?
+1, I maintained a bunch of diesel generators until recently, from a little 3 cyl. aircooled Lister up to a big V24 Detroit Diesel and we did an oil (also fuel and coolant) analysis on all of them yearly and it was definitely worthwhile, in some cases it gave early notice of serious problems. Oil analysis alone is not very expensive, don't think it would be any help with 3rd gear though, from what I've seen here the gear tends to crack into several pieces and probably would not contaminate the oil much beforehand.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:31 AM   #78784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
all this oil talk is makin' me itchy.

I hate oil changes. Messy. Always end up with some on me and some on the garage floor.

The price of motorcycle oils makes me sick. almost as bad as when I go to the grocery store and see the price of food!
Well Russ with that said, I'm out the door. I have a 1500 oil tanker inbound for Carteret NJ with a fresh supply.
Lol
But would anyone be surprised if I told you we are exporting more oil now then we ever did ?


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DockingPilot screwed with this post 07-17-2013 at 09:36 AM
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:32 AM   #78785
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Oil changes location in a variety of ways.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:41 AM   #78786
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post

I hate oil changes. Messy. Always end up with some on me and some on the garage floor.
Still hate tire changes more.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:51 AM   #78787
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Word.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:54 AM   #78788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Just curious about your intervals though. If your oil analysis is saying your oil is still good at 1000, why not run it to 1500? Blackstone usually recommend that anyway don't they? I thought that was the point of oil analysis.

I got a few samples checked with Blackstone years ago when I switched to Amsoil, mainly to see if I could go the Amsoil recommended twice the drain interval of the manufacturer. My oil tests on my Kawasaki Meanstreak (liquid cooled big twin) and BMW R1200RT (air/oil cooled twin)showed the oil to still be in spec well after the recommended drain interval. I didn't put enough miles on those bikes to double the drain interval with our short riding season in Canada but I was comfortable enough with the results to change the oil in the fall when the bikes get winterized and then just ride all spring/summer/fall.

I also hand the new owner of any of our bikes sold a detailed maintenance log and they all seem surprised and pleased as well. Most bikes just get ridden and put away with little regard for maintenance so I think buyers are surprised to find one that's actually been looked after.

I'd rather buy tires than oil. I've been known to replace a few tires before their time, but that's another discussion.
It's good you changed the oil BEFORE storing your bikes for Winter. Lots of guys put 'em away with old oil in there. Someone commented about engines stored for long periods and corrosion. Old oil left sitting can cause corrosion more quickly than fresh oil.

But all that said, if I were you I'd still try and run my bikes at least once a month or so, even if just idling and revving up a bit. 20 minutes should do it. All engines hate to sit ... only bad things can happen.

I kept two vintage Brit bikes for 11 years. I only rode them in Summer and not many miles if any. Sometimes if away for work or traveling I'd not be able to fire them up for as long as 3 months. One was a '79 Bonneville Special, the other a '67 BSA Lightning Rocket.

I used Stabil in the fuel (I kept tanks FULL) and Marvel Mystery Oil in both fuel and oil. I also fogged the cylinders with Marvel. They seemed to run better every year! ... and always started after 1st or 2nd kick. The Carbs never gummed up ... they just ran and ran. The old guy experts always said to change the oil before you stored them ... and the really anal guys would change it again before putting them back in service. I did not do this ... just ran the perfectly clean oil all Summer.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:16 AM   #78789
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Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
I've been using the 0W40 in everything since about 2007...there are no "fuel economy" additives in the Mobil if I understand it correctly....no issues.

The WR250R, at 15,000 of hard miles when I hydrolocked it was tired, but clean as a whistle.

Oh...and 45,000 on the DL, 25,000 miles on the GS500--no issues with that oil...again--not really more than anecdotal evidence--but at least we know it doesn't cause a failure? Hmmmm...
Some Mobil One Synthetic oils are "energy saving" and others are not. Actually "most" of Mobil's most common synthetic car oil IS energy saving. I think it has a Green cap?
Mobil One Motorcycle specific oil of course, has no "energy saver" additives ... but Mobil make two others that don't either.

Wal Mart carry two versions that are NOT energy saving. One is called "High Mileage" (for high mileage engines), the other is something like "Extended Service", (claiming you can go further between oil changes) This extended service product I have not seen lately. Both are Full Synthetic, not blends. I'm not certain if these two oils would be considered "true synthetics" by the experts or not? Both are car oils, not the motorcycle version.

Anyway, I've used both of them for about 5 years now in a variety of bikes.
All good. No oil analysis, but no apparent issues in my 90K Vstrom (sold), WR250F dirt bike, 50K mile DR650, or Triumph Tiger 1050.
The good news is that Mobil One at Wal Mart is very affordable ... even more so when ON SALE. 3K to 4K change intervals here ...depending on use and time.
My 250F dirt bike gets fresh oil after just about every ride. (only 2 to 300 miles typically)
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:21 AM   #78790
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It has some of the API circle blank--doesn't say some of the shit that the other ones say about that--this is the OW40 Europeeon formula, so it's GOT to be good.

At about 500 miles--changing oil here before any more riding by the way. Just waiting on my magnetic drain plug!
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:23 AM   #78791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
... don't think it would be any help with 3rd gear though, from what I've seen here the gear tends to crack into several pieces and probably would not contaminate the oil much beforehand.
+1
There have not been any reports of abnormal wear on destroyed third gear pieces.
Of all the spare transmission gears I have from various DRs the 3rd gears actually look less worn than any of the other gears.
There are a few photos here --> http://drriders.com/topic6662-30.html
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:23 AM   #78792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post

At about 500 miles--changing oil here before any more riding by the way. Just waiting on my magnetic drain plug!
what's going in?
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:32 AM   #78793
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OW40 and GoldPlug.
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:02 PM   #78794
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Still hate tire changes more.
So do I, but then I change tires a hell of a lot more often then I change oil.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:08 PM   #78795
WhichWayNow
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Question Bike problem

I hate to interrupt another oil discussion, but I'm looking for some ideas on a problem that I have been having with my DR.

The bike is an '09 with over 25,000 miles on it. It has been well maintained with regular oil changes, valve adjustments, air cleaner cleanings, etc... It has an FMF Q4 pipe. The air box has been modded with most of the top cut out.

The problem started last summer. When passing at highway speeds, the engine will start to accelerate. It will then stop running completely for about a second or so, backfire and then accelerate again.

This problem has gotten progeressively worse. It has gotten to the point where the issue will occur while riding uphill at moderate throttle opening. It can even happen repeatedly sometimes at lower cruising throttle positions.

The problem is specific to certain specific throttle/load/rpm conditions. It does not appear to be random in nature.




I've spent a lot of time diagnosing this issue without any success in resolving it. The following are some of the things that I have looked into.
  • Cleaned the air cleaner. It is definitely not clogged
  • Adjusted main jets and needle richer, leaner and everywhere in between
  • Cleaned the carburetor throughly, including completely disassembling everything
  • Verified free flow of fuel out of the petcock. I removed the fuel line and opened the petcock. Fuel flowed out steadily. I also verified that the fuel line is not kinked.
  • I removed the little fuel strainer from the BST inlet.
  • Replaced the BST with a TM40 Pumper carb. The issue must not be the carb, because it is still happening with the TM40
  • New spark plugs
  • Adjusted valves
  • Added a cover on the top of the air box to restore nearly stock air opening
Basically I've tried all of the obvious steps that I can think of. Has anyone else run into this sort of issue? Does anyone have any idea where to look next?

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