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Old 07-17-2013, 10:16 AM   #78781
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
I've been using the 0W40 in everything since about 2007...there are no "fuel economy" additives in the Mobil if I understand it correctly....no issues.

The WR250R, at 15,000 of hard miles when I hydrolocked it was tired, but clean as a whistle.

Oh...and 45,000 on the DL, 25,000 miles on the GS500--no issues with that oil...again--not really more than anecdotal evidence--but at least we know it doesn't cause a failure? Hmmmm...
Some Mobil One Synthetic oils are "energy saving" and others are not. Actually "most" of Mobil's most common synthetic car oil IS energy saving. I think it has a Green cap?
Mobil One Motorcycle specific oil of course, has no "energy saver" additives ... but Mobil make two others that don't either.

Wal Mart carry two versions that are NOT energy saving. One is called "High Mileage" (for high mileage engines), the other is something like "Extended Service", (claiming you can go further between oil changes) This extended service product I have not seen lately. Both are Full Synthetic, not blends. I'm not certain if these two oils would be considered "true synthetics" by the experts or not? Both are car oils, not the motorcycle version.

Anyway, I've used both of them for about 5 years now in a variety of bikes.
All good. No oil analysis, but no apparent issues in my 90K Vstrom (sold), WR250F dirt bike, 50K mile DR650, or Triumph Tiger 1050.
The good news is that Mobil One at Wal Mart is very affordable ... even more so when ON SALE. 3K to 4K change intervals here ...depending on use and time.
My 250F dirt bike gets fresh oil after just about every ride. (only 2 to 300 miles typically)
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:21 AM   #78782
MoBill
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It has some of the API circle blank--doesn't say some of the shit that the other ones say about that--this is the OW40 Europeeon formula, so it's GOT to be good.

At about 500 miles--changing oil here before any more riding by the way. Just waiting on my magnetic drain plug!
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:23 AM   #78783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
... don't think it would be any help with 3rd gear though, from what I've seen here the gear tends to crack into several pieces and probably would not contaminate the oil much beforehand.
+1
There have not been any reports of abnormal wear on destroyed third gear pieces.
Of all the spare transmission gears I have from various DRs the 3rd gears actually look less worn than any of the other gears.
There are a few photos here --> http://drriders.com/topic6662-30.html
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:23 AM   #78784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post

At about 500 miles--changing oil here before any more riding by the way. Just waiting on my magnetic drain plug!
what's going in?
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:32 AM   #78785
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OW40 and GoldPlug.
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:02 PM   #78786
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Still hate tire changes more.
So do I, but then I change tires a hell of a lot more often then I change oil.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:08 PM   #78787
WhichWayNow
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Question Bike problem

I hate to interrupt another oil discussion, but I'm looking for some ideas on a problem that I have been having with my DR.

The bike is an '09 with over 25,000 miles on it. It has been well maintained with regular oil changes, valve adjustments, air cleaner cleanings, etc... It has an FMF Q4 pipe. The air box has been modded with most of the top cut out.

The problem started last summer. When passing at highway speeds, the engine will start to accelerate. It will then stop running completely for about a second or so, backfire and then accelerate again.

This problem has gotten progeressively worse. It has gotten to the point where the issue will occur while riding uphill at moderate throttle opening. It can even happen repeatedly sometimes at lower cruising throttle positions.

The problem is specific to certain specific throttle/load/rpm conditions. It does not appear to be random in nature.




I've spent a lot of time diagnosing this issue without any success in resolving it. The following are some of the things that I have looked into.
  • Cleaned the air cleaner. It is definitely not clogged
  • Adjusted main jets and needle richer, leaner and everywhere in between
  • Cleaned the carburetor throughly, including completely disassembling everything
  • Verified free flow of fuel out of the petcock. I removed the fuel line and opened the petcock. Fuel flowed out steadily. I also verified that the fuel line is not kinked.
  • I removed the little fuel strainer from the BST inlet.
  • Replaced the BST with a TM40 Pumper carb. The issue must not be the carb, because it is still happening with the TM40
  • New spark plugs
  • Adjusted valves
  • Added a cover on the top of the air box to restore nearly stock air opening
Basically I've tried all of the obvious steps that I can think of. Has anyone else run into this sort of issue? Does anyone have any idea where to look next?

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Old 07-17-2013, 02:15 PM   #78788
dankatz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhichWayNow View Post
I hate to interrupt another oil discussion, but I'm looking for some ideas on a problem that I have been having with my DR.

The bike is an '09 with over 25,000 miles on it. It has been well maintained with regular oil changes, valve adjustments, air cleaner cleanings, etc... It has an FMF Q4 pipe. The air box has been modded with most of the top cut out.

The problem started last summer. When passing at highway speeds, the engine will start to accelerate. It will then stop running completely for about a second or so, backfire and then accelerate again.

This problem has gotten progeressively worse. It has gotten to the point where the issue will occur while riding uphill at moderate throttle opening. It can even happen repeatedly sometimes at lower cruising throttle positions.

The problem is specific to certain specific throttle/load/rpm conditions. It does not appear to be random in nature.




I've spent a lot of time diagnosing this issue without any success in resolving it. The following are some of the things that I have looked into.
  • Cleaned the air cleaner. It is definitely not clogged
  • Adjusted main jets and needle richer, leaner and everywhere in between
  • Cleaned the carburetor throughly, including completely disassembling everything
  • Verified free flow of fuel out of the petcock. I removed the fuel line and opened the petcock. Fuel flowed out steadily. I also verified that the fuel line is not kinked.
  • I removed the little fuel strainer from the BST inlet.
  • Replaced the BST with a TM40 Pumper carb. The issue must not be the carb, because it is still happening with the TM40
  • New spark plugs
  • Adjusted valves
  • Added a cover on the top of the air box to restore nearly stock air opening
Basically I've tried all of the obvious steps that I can think of. Has anyone else run into this sort of issue? Does anyone have any idea where to look next?

I don't have an aftermarket pipe, but had a similar problem on my last trip (2008 with 21k miles). On my bike, it was obvious to me what the issue was - a burned clutch. Any uphill it would stop accelerating and sometimes even loose speed. Maybe, your clutch is slipping? Is it the original?
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:19 PM   #78789
WhichWayNow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dankatz View Post
I don't have an aftermarket pipe, but had a similar problem on my last trip (2008 with 21k miles). On my bike, it was obvious to me what the issue was - a burned clutch. Any uphill it would stop accelerating and sometimes even loose speed. Maybe, your clutch is slipping? Is it the original?
I have had the clutch replaced. I did have a slipping issue a while back. This is an engine problem where the engine quits running completely for a breif moment.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:25 PM   #78790
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhichWayNow View Post
I have had the clutch replaced. I did have a slipping issue a while back. This is an engine problem where the engine quits running completely for a breif moment.
Sounds like a sidestand switch problem to me. Try holding the stand up with a bungee to see if it happens again.

My DR was cutting out, confirmed by the method I mentioned above, and a new set of sidestand return springs cured it.

In fact now that I see your original description, I'm sure that this is your problem. Passing at speed is exactly where I had the same problem as you describe.
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Emmbeedee screwed with this post 07-17-2013 at 02:38 PM
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:38 PM   #78791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Sounds like a sidestand switch problem to me. Try holding the stand up with a bungee to see if it happens again.

My DR was cutting out, confirmed by the method I mentioned above, and a new set of springs cured it.
Interesting thought, I'll check that out. I would think that it would cut out when I hit bumps if that were the case. I haven't noticed any correlation there, but it's worth checking out.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:42 PM   #78792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhichWayNow View Post
Interesting thought, I'll check that out. I would think that it would cut out when I hit bumps if that were the case. I haven't noticed any correlation there, but it's worth checking out.
I think vibration at passing speed and leaning out to pass is what makes it happen then. Bumps didn't have any effect, on my bike.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:56 PM   #78793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhichWayNow View Post
I have had the clutch replaced. I did have a slipping issue a while back. This is an engine problem where the engine quits running completely for a breif moment.
That is odd - I agree. Do you think the petcock maybe malfunctioning sometimes?
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:56 PM   #78794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhichWayNow View Post
Interesting thought, I'll check that out. I would think that it would cut out when I hit bumps if that were the case. I haven't noticed any correlation there, but it's worth checking out.
I'd that's not it, inspect your other electrical connections, under the seat and tank. Not sure which tank you're running, but you may have a kinked vacuum line that is restricting flow intermittently.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:58 PM   #78795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I think vibration at passing speed and leaning out to pass is what makes it happen then. Bumps didn't have any effect, on my bike.
Recently I had a similar issue, changed out the fuel but it seemed so abrupt, seemed electrical. Happened in several gears and seemed to be when the engine was under a heavy/accelerating load. Today I rode it hard on some rougher dirt and it never happened.
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