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Old 07-18-2013, 04:17 PM   #78826
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlmaffucci View Post
Well, after intensive research on what bike to purchase, I got my DR650SE. I love it, it's great. Just took it for a ride, first time on a motorcycle actually, lol. Let me know what you guys think.

Ignore my fathers work car, lol. And no, he did not buy it for me. I had to save up for this bad boy. :) I'm quite proud.
Congrats. Add a couple extra lights, a whip antenna and that could be a cop bike. People would be parting the way for you.

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Old 07-18-2013, 04:25 PM   #78827
epix1718
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Location: Michigan/Indiana border
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FCR Question

Picked up this other FCR carb to use on another DR (previous owner of the carb said he was using it on his DR650). Got it for cheap but is this just the standard FCR (Non-MX) version? He said it was originally on a KTM 525 SX


Going over it, it appears to have the Sudco DR boot adaptor and a R&D Accelerator Pump.. Don't think it has the ACV?





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Old 07-18-2013, 05:19 PM   #78828
YnotJP?
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I have a Seat Concept on my DR 650, my Son has a Sargent on his. Both are good, I do like mine more. My Son's has the "welt" at the seam, I can feel that and don't care for it. I understand Sargent has them with and without that "welt."
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:29 PM   #78829
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YnotJP? View Post
I have a Seat Concept on my DR 650, my Son has a Sargent on his. Both are good, I do like mine more. My Son's has the "welt" at the seam, I can feel that and don't care for it. I understand Sargent has them with and without that "welt."
yes you can order a Sargent with a "top-stich" ie no welt and that is the only way to go. you feel welts at times and i would never order any seat with any bikes with a welt.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:36 PM   #78830
JTB488
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Epix, did ya check with MxRob?
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:42 PM   #78831
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
yes you can order a Sargent with a "top-stich" ie no welt and that is the only way to go. you feel welts at times and i would never order any seat with any bikes with a welt.
NOW you guys post this... one day after me ordering my first Sargeant, and with specific colored 'piping' (or welt).

Is it really that noticeable?!
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Old 07-18-2013, 06:03 PM   #78832
Ever Onward
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On the left hand threaded primary drive nut, whats a good "holder tool" of sorts when torqueing the nut if you dont have a official primary holder tool.

I understand the clutch will slip before you reach torque when trying to lock the rear wheel.

I just dont wanna bugger up the primary gears by wedgeing any old thing in there.
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Old 07-18-2013, 06:38 PM   #78833
8gv
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Location: North central CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
On the left hand threaded primary drive nut, whats a good "holder tool" of sorts when torqueing the nut if you dont have a official primary holder tool.

I understand the clutch will slip before you reach torque when trying to lock the rear wheel.

I just dont wanna bugger up the primary gears by wedgeing any old thing in there.
You are brining back a sad memory...
When I did mine I forgot to put it in top gear before removing the clutch cover. With no ability to actuate the clutch, I only had first and second. The spec on the nut is 72.5 pound feet. The board I wedged into my rear wheel held all the way to the torque spec. The torque wrench clicked at the exact moment I heard the spoke break.

The spoke nipple was what really broke. Thankfully, an inmate here sent me a replacement. I could only buy a full set for $65.

Shift it into fifth before you remove the clutch cover, put a board in the spokes and I suspect you'll be ok. YMMV!
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:24 PM   #78834
ChromeSux
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Location: Lenoir City TN.
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Sargent seat

I just put a Sargent seat up for sale in the flea market section, sadly i am selling my DR650, i bought a DRZ400.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:14 PM   #78835
blackcap
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
On the left hand threaded primary drive nut, whats a good "holder tool" of sorts when torqueing the nut if you dont have a official primary holder tool.

I understand the clutch will slip before you reach torque when trying to lock the rear wheel.

I just dont wanna bugger up the primary gears by wedgeing any old thing in there.
stick the piston pin into the top end of the connecting rod, pass the biggest allen key you can fit through the centre of the pin, put two small pieces of wood (or steel plate is better) between the engine block and both ends of the allen key, rotate the crank in the right direction until the allen key sits on the wood and then tighten away. this is assuming the head is already off the engine
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:45 PM   #78836
BergDonk
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or wedge a piece of rag or aluminium between the primary and secondary gears.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:04 PM   #78837
Ever Onward
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Engine is together. Yes, aluminum wedge.....but what size and shape ?

Dont want to jam anything in rear wheel.

Pics would be nice.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:28 PM   #78838
barko1
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Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
or wedge a piece of rag or aluminium between the primary and secondary gears.
How about a penny?
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:30 PM   #78839
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Engine is together. Yes, aluminum wedge.....but what size and shape ?

Dont want to jam anything in rear wheel.

Pics would be nice.
Something like this, but this one won't work; our gears are helical cut.

A beer and a bacon sammich would be nice.

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Old 07-18-2013, 09:57 PM   #78840
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Engine is together. Yes, aluminum wedge.....but what size and shape ?

Dont want to jam anything in rear wheel.

Pics would be nice.
3 or 4 mm thick does the job, as does a piece of rag. Don't over think it. The MP tool is nice, but not needed, and yes, as stated, for straight cut gears.

The spoke thing works too, but you MUST get the stop at the nipple tight against the rim so its only in shear and no bending, and assumes an operating clutch.
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