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Old 07-19-2013, 05:21 AM   #78841
Ever Onward
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
3 or 4 mm thick does the job, as does a piece of rag. Don't over think it. The MP tool is nice, but not needed, and yes, as stated, for straight cut gears.

The spoke thing works too, but you MUST get the stop at the nipple tight against the rim so its only in shear and no bending, and assumes an operating clutch.

Thanks very much !

I havnt opened it up yet and didnt know they were helical cut. Yep, that complicates things a bit.

So just use a nice shop rag and fold it up some and feed it into the gears while turning the crank till the primary binds up to torque the nut ?

Any opinions on weather to use blue locktight ?
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:57 AM   #78842
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Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
Good luck with the project guys
DRF Post#3
Got a TR650 now (6 years later) they are pretty good too (fark they go). Still a DR fan... but.

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Old 07-19-2013, 06:11 AM   #78843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
You are brining back a sad memory...
When I did mine I forgot to put it in top gear before removing the clutch cover. With no ability to actuate the clutch, I only had first and second. The spec on the nut is 72.5 pound feet. The board I wedged into my rear wheel held all the way to the torque spec. The torque wrench clicked at the exact moment I heard the spoke break.

The spoke nipple was what really broke. Thankfully, an inmate here sent me a replacement. I could only buy a full set for $65.

Shift it into fifth before you remove the clutch cover, put a board in the spokes and I suspect you'll be ok. YMMV!
"Put a board in the spokes"
How did you think of that and why? Putting all the torque into one spoke seems counter productive as you proved.
Putting a rag or something soft between the primary gears works just fine.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:14 AM   #78844
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
NOW you guys post this... one day after me ordering my first Sargeant, and with specific colored 'piping' (or welt).

Is it really that noticeable?!
You dont sit on the welts,if you did nobody would be selling or buying them. They go around the edge of the seat area and arent a big deal,but I guess arent necessary either. Ive always had welts on Corbin seats on streetbikes and have never once noticed them.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:27 AM   #78845
Ever Onward
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Quick question, whats the true actual capacity of the stock DR fuel tank ?

And, what a real world distance you can get outta reserve if you ride gentle trying to milk the most MPG outta the reserve portion ?
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:28 AM   #78846
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Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
Clark 3.7 review.

http://drriders.com/topic873.html

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Clarke needs to make a bigger tank for the DR650.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:31 AM   #78847
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Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Quick question, whats the true actual capacity of the stock DR fuel tank ?

And, what a real world distance you can get outta reserve if you ride gentle trying to milk the most MPG outta the reserve portion ?
The important part is 'usable' capacity. I swear that while my stock tank has about 3.5 gallons of gas in it, even on reserve I don't have access to it (though I've never tried to run it out... but after hitting reserve and heading to the gas station I'm always miffed that the tank only took 2.5 or 2.7 gallons of fuel).
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:44 AM   #78848
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Clarke needs to make a bigger tank for the DR650.
Not really, Acerbis and IMS make a 5 gallon, Safari makes a 8 gallon tank. Between the 4 they pretty much have every size you'd want covered.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:02 AM   #78849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
The important part is 'usable' capacity. I swear that while my stock tank has about 3.5 gallons of gas in it, even on reserve I don't have access to it (though I've never tried to run it out... but after hitting reserve and heading to the gas station I'm always miffed that the tank only took 2.5 or 2.7 gallons of fuel).

This is why Im asking. I dont have the bike rideable at this point and short of starting with a bone dry tank, filling it to the top, running it till I hit reserve, setting the trip meter right then, riding real easy till it runs dry, would I know the real world reserve distance its capeable of.

Just gettin ballpark numbers for a referance point.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:03 AM   #78850
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Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Not really, Acerbis and IMS make a 5 gallon, Safari makes a 8 gallon tank. Between the 4 they pretty much have every size you'd want covered.
You don't think Clarke could make an about 8 gallon tank for about half the price of a Safari if they wanted to? Maybe I'm just not understanding the space-age materials Safari tanks are made from vs. the other makers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
This is why Im asking. I dont have the bike rideable at this point and short of starting with a bone dry tank, filling it to the top, running it till I hit reserve, setting the trip meter right then, riding real easy till it runs dry, would I know the real world reserve distance its capeable of.

Just gettin ballpark numbers for a referance point.
I was seriously meaning to test just that out - i.e. when reserve would run out... but instead I mounted up my spare fuel bottle (MSR) in a place that I don't want to have to mess with it unless I have to.

Maybe someone else lives in a part of the country where they won't get run right over if and when they run out of fuel while testing, but now that I think about it... south Florida probably isn't the place to go playing around like that.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:20 AM   #78851
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Highway miles I can get about 105 before hitting reserve, then without tipping the bike to get every last drop I hit 31 miles before she dies. Like I said that is highway miles with speeds 65-75. Same here with hitting reserve then only puting in 2.5 Gal.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:33 AM   #78852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
DRF Post#3
Got a TR650 now (6 years later) they are pretty good too (fark they go). Still a DR fan... but.

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Old 07-19-2013, 08:44 AM   #78853
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
You don't think Clarke could make an about 8 gallon tank for about half the price of a Safari if they wanted to?
In the past they certainly could have. These days they can't even fix their aging molds that have problems or cosmetic blemishes. They are perpetually running 4+ weeks behind and think that kind of lag time is OK.

I've talked to the folks at Clarke about filling the sweet spot between the IMS and Safari with a 6.5 tank for the DR. The only response I've had was "yeah, we hear that a lot".
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:58 AM   #78854
Mambo Dave
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
In the past they certainly could have. These days they can't even fix their aging molds that have problems or cosmetic blemishes. They are perpetually running 4+ weeks behind and think that kind of lag time is OK.

I've talked to the folks at Clarke about filling the sweet spot between the IMS and Safari with a 6.5 tank for the DR. The only response I've had was "yeah, we hear that a lot".
Wow.

I may order an Acerbis from you guys in a month or two then.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:45 AM   #78855
barko1
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
That's a good video explanation and belongs in Krusty's Index.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=636395&page=5

I decided to do the fix but my connectors were small pins and I didn't have anything to make a good jumper with so I cut/soldered, shrink wrapped and tucked it all away. Just rode it hard on pavement and dirt and couldn't get the cutting out symptoms to reappear so I think that must have been it
Thanks for the suggestions, DR runs so good and with one of those crappy old BST carbs opened up.
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