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Old 07-18-2013, 05:03 PM   #78841
Ever Onward
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Location: Past the point of no return
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On the left hand threaded primary drive nut, whats a good "holder tool" of sorts when torqueing the nut if you dont have a official primary holder tool.

I understand the clutch will slip before you reach torque when trying to lock the rear wheel.

I just dont wanna bugger up the primary gears by wedgeing any old thing in there.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:38 PM   #78842
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
On the left hand threaded primary drive nut, whats a good "holder tool" of sorts when torqueing the nut if you dont have a official primary holder tool.

I understand the clutch will slip before you reach torque when trying to lock the rear wheel.

I just dont wanna bugger up the primary gears by wedgeing any old thing in there.
You are brining back a sad memory...
When I did mine I forgot to put it in top gear before removing the clutch cover. With no ability to actuate the clutch, I only had first and second. The spec on the nut is 72.5 pound feet. The board I wedged into my rear wheel held all the way to the torque spec. The torque wrench clicked at the exact moment I heard the spoke break.

The spoke nipple was what really broke. Thankfully, an inmate here sent me a replacement. I could only buy a full set for $65.

Shift it into fifth before you remove the clutch cover, put a board in the spokes and I suspect you'll be ok. YMMV!
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Old 07-18-2013, 06:24 PM   #78843
ChromeSux
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Location: Lenoir City TN.
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Sargent seat

I just put a Sargent seat up for sale in the flea market section, sadly i am selling my DR650, i bought a DRZ400.
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:14 PM   #78844
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
On the left hand threaded primary drive nut, whats a good "holder tool" of sorts when torqueing the nut if you dont have a official primary holder tool.

I understand the clutch will slip before you reach torque when trying to lock the rear wheel.

I just dont wanna bugger up the primary gears by wedgeing any old thing in there.
stick the piston pin into the top end of the connecting rod, pass the biggest allen key you can fit through the centre of the pin, put two small pieces of wood (or steel plate is better) between the engine block and both ends of the allen key, rotate the crank in the right direction until the allen key sits on the wood and then tighten away. this is assuming the head is already off the engine
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:45 PM   #78845
BergDonk
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or wedge a piece of rag or aluminium between the primary and secondary gears.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:04 PM   #78846
Ever Onward
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Engine is together. Yes, aluminum wedge.....but what size and shape ?

Dont want to jam anything in rear wheel.

Pics would be nice.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:28 PM   #78847
barko1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
or wedge a piece of rag or aluminium between the primary and secondary gears.
How about a penny?
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:30 PM   #78848
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Engine is together. Yes, aluminum wedge.....but what size and shape ?

Dont want to jam anything in rear wheel.

Pics would be nice.
Something like this, but this one won't work; our gears are helical cut.

A beer and a bacon sammich would be nice.

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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:57 PM   #78849
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Engine is together. Yes, aluminum wedge.....but what size and shape ?

Dont want to jam anything in rear wheel.

Pics would be nice.
3 or 4 mm thick does the job, as does a piece of rag. Don't over think it. The MP tool is nice, but not needed, and yes, as stated, for straight cut gears.

The spoke thing works too, but you MUST get the stop at the nipple tight against the rim so its only in shear and no bending, and assumes an operating clutch.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:21 PM   #78850
psmcd
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better look

I bought my bike with a Sargent with the welt. I look at it and think that ain't right but never notice it riding, even when I try. Guess I'll have to drop my drawers after a ride and see if it leaves a welt. I've contemplated putting a sheepskin cover on for longer rides. The flatness of the Sargent makes me think a little loft on top might make it better conform to my irregularness. I put the stock seat on once for a test. That really made me appreciate the Sargent.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
NOW you guys post this... one day after me ordering my first Sargeant, and with specific colored 'piping' (or welt).

Is it really that noticeable?!
PS - can anyone explain why my photobucket inserts 2 copies of the same image when I paste in the link?
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:31 PM   #78851
sunthechip
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I know the ID for the fuel line is 5/16"

Anyone know the ID of the vacuum line?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:04 PM   #78852
SOTA
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Has anyone ever fitted a different gas tank to the dr650. I don't really like the dorky metal tank and I really don't like the look of the over sized tanks. I'm wondering if its possible to mount a mx style tank like a drz tank or something, I like the look of the fairings and I think it would look great.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:48 PM   #78853
Escaped
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There is the Clark 3.7 gallon tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SOTA View Post
Has anyone ever fitted a different gas tank to the dr650. I don't really like the dorky metal tank and I really don't like the look of the over sized tanks. I'm wondering if its possible to mount a mx style tank like a drz tank or something, I like the look of the fairings and I think it would look great.


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Old 07-18-2013, 11:56 PM   #78854
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Clark 3.7 review.

http://drriders.com/topic873.html

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Old 07-19-2013, 03:37 AM   #78855
thump!
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

A beer and a bacon sammich would be nice...
Doesn't the beer make the bread soggy?
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