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Old 07-20-2013, 02:54 PM   #78916
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlmaffucci View Post
I like that jacket you've got there, where did you get it from?
Rev It Sand. Vents really well.
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:58 PM   #78917
Ever Onward
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"High security saturday " is done, finally "beer thirty" !

It started at 5 AM. I did everything behind the clutch cover side. All went well, until the time to get the top NSU screw out with the clutch still on. Couldnt get a good angle with my "L" screwdriver.

Also didnt like holding a stubby driver bit with needle nose vice grips. Decided to pull the whole clutch off and do it right.

Well, of course my old clutch hub holder tool didnt fit, so had to get creative with a long punch, small crescent wrench, and a couple long bolts and fender washers. The bolts pretty much bottomed out in the post bosses for strength so not to break either of the bosses used.








Worked fine, also used it to hold clutch hub for retorque. Hub nut was nice and tight to start with.

Next was the NSU. Replaced screws with locktighted allens that had lockwashers underneath.

Drilled the allens for safety wire just for good old school racers sake !

In the end I have.....Locktight, Lock washers, AND stainless safety wire !!!


I feel fairly confident there will be no issues involving the NSU !







I also locktighted the 2 screws that hold the metal splashplate on behind the clutch. Reinstalled all the clutch stuff and then folded up a shop rag and rotated it into the primary gears to lock the crank nut.

(Huge thanks to Bergdonk !!) That is the slickest way to hold the primary crank gear for nut removal and installation. No harm what so ever to the gears.

Removed nut and cleaned everything up with brake cleaner, then blue locktight on the nut and retorqued it.

My NSU screws were real tight to start with at 4k. The clutch hub was tight also.

BUT ............ The primary drive crank nut had maybe 20 pounds torque to start with ! Obviously only about 1/4 what it should have been.

Torqued it up to 72 pounds on assembly.

So be warned, even low mile, gently ridden bikes may have things gettin loose under the cover.

When I looked at the 2 screws holding the splashplate, they could possibly do the same damage the NSU screws do when they fall out.

Might be worth pulling the clutch and locktight those also for those of us paranoid preventive kinda mechanics !
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:17 PM   #78918
bradrh
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: lakewood, co
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malignity View Post
Hey everyone,

I'm looking at possibly getting a 2000 DR650. Its got about 22,000 miles on it. How many more miles on average will I be able to get before I'm looking at a rebuild?

With proper suspension, will a DR650 be able to achieve freeway speed with a 240lb driver and 170lb passenger?

I want a backup/guest 'dirt bike', but also would like to kill two birds with one stone and have an adventure bike for my wife and I. The XR650L is too tall for a passenger, and the KLR is too heavy to be used as a dirt bike.

I'm hoping the DR650 will fit.
It depends how long your legs are. My wife & I are 5-10 & we're too cramped to ride 2 up for very long.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:18 PM   #78919
bross
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Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
"High security saturday " is done, finally "beer thirty" !

It started at 5 AM. I did everything behind the clutch cover side. All went well, until the time to get the top NSU screw out with the clutch still on. Couldnt get a good angle with my "L" screwdriver.

Also didnt like holding a stubby driver bit with needle nose vice grips. Decided to pull the whole clutch off and do it right.

Well, of course my old clutch hub holder tool didnt fit, so had to get creative with a long punch, small crescent wrench, and a couple long bolts and fender washers. The bolts pretty much bottomed out in the post bosses for strength so not to break either of the bosses used.





Worked fine, also used it to hold clutch hub for retorque. Hub nut was nice and tight to start with.

Next was the NSU. Replaced screws with locktighted allens that had lockwashers underneath.

Drilled the allens for safety wire just for good old school racers sake !

In the end I have.....Locktight, Lock washers, AND stainless safety wire !!!


I feel fairly confident there will be no issues involving the NSU !

I also locktighted the 2 screws that hold the metal splashplate on behind the clutch. Reinstalled all the clutch stuff and then folded up a shop rag and rotated it into the primary gears to lock the crank nut.

(Huge thanks to Bergdonk !!) That is the slickest way to hold the primary crank gear for nut removal and installation. No harm what so ever to the gears.

Removed nut and cleaned everything up with brake cleaner, then blue locktight on the nut and retorqued it.

My NSU screws were real tight to start with at 4k. The clutch hub was tight also.

BUT ............ The primary drive crank nut had maybe 20 pounds torque to start with ! Obviously only about 1/4 what it should have been.

Torqued it up to 72 pounds on assembly.

So be warned, even low mile, gently ridden bikes may have things gettin loose under the cover.

When I looked at the 2 screws holding the splashplate, they could possibly do the same damage the NSU screws do when they fall out.

Might be worth pulling the clutch and locktight those also for those of us paranoid preventive kinda mechanics !
You did take that paper towel out of the hole before putting the cover back on, right?
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:35 PM   #78920
Ever Onward
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Actually its white T'shirt pieces. I started beer thirty AFTER all was done.

Not one of those days to be beered up while inside the internals of the engine.

Even remembered to put oil in.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:26 PM   #78921
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
I cut the stock pegs and welded them. later I added a half horseshoe cleat that I notched out of cold roll
you should be able to find a tig welder near by if you want to go this route. cutting & welding took me about 1-1/2 hrs. installed.
...
the mounting bolts can run all the way thru the frame if you chase the threads with a tap. I also added a cleat to the brake lever
What did you use to notch the cold roll so uniformly?

I have a mig welder (110 volt, but it should do the job) here at the house, so while I love Tig welds... on steel I should should be able to get 'er done without the prettiness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post




I love that use of a crescent wrench. I'm going to have to remember that since most crescent wrenches have the hole at the end.

Believe it or not, I found a way to use a tool I became an expert with back when I did demolition for a living... a long flat pry bar:



I found that the 'hooked' end could be inserted to catch on a reinforcing tab and ... I think the other end of it on one of the raised threaded holes.

...

Hey, it was all I could come up with at the time.
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X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:28 PM   #78922
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Coudl someone here extoll the virtues, if any, for a 5'10" rider and lowered footpegs? What did you notice?

I've ridden my DR on one trip so far, and during that trip I didn't really ever think 'Hey, these footpegs need lowered!", nor did I get the leg cramps that some of my other bikes had given me.

I could see widening the footpegs, instead, for more comfort (I'm on a budget here, yet that seems to make more sense to me out of the two alterations).

Then there's the whole losing of the rubber-damped footpeg mounts for most kits if I were to do it. Not sure that's a great idea either...

What I'm trying to make is a bike I could do a 700 or more mile day if I wanted to (yet, yes, out of a dual sport).
Toughen up your butt and just relax.



Seriously, though...A lot of it is in your mindset. I did over 1100 miles in a day on my DR when it was darn-near stock. The stock seat didn't even really put me off much. I'm 5'8"/30" inseam, BTW.

You can remove the rubber inserts from the peg brackets and then cut/weld the brackets before putting the rubber back in. I recommend wider pegs too. I also moved mine rearwards a little bit. It's a bit more roomy for long rides, but the biggest space improvement was clearance for my offroad boots by the shifter. With the lowered pegs and rearward shift, moving from seated to standing and back is easier. I also consider installing a lower seat now and then.

I like having the Happy Trails touring pegs on my skid too, but they could be sturdier, and I don't use them for very long usually. Much like also lowering my passenger pegs 2", the main benefit is just being able to move my feet around occasionally. I still ride most of the miles on the rider pegs.

The important attributes I have for doing big mileage in a day on the DR are:

- Big tank. Stopping for gas every 150 miles kills time. I have an IMS that holds over 5.3gal, but I'm shopping for a good deal on a used Safari tank.
- Multiple foot positions. This allows you to stretch out or scrunch up. It allows you to change the angle of your seating and your upper body.
- Comfy seat.
- Gear that keeps you comfortable.
- Throttle lock and/or CrampBuster on comfy grips, with handguards over them.
- Good lights, 360 degrees. Ride early to late, but stay alert.
- Power and gearing to easily cruise with traffic and to pass trucks. Tuning the carbing to get decent MPG helps too.
- A quiet exhaust that isn't "barky".
- Tires and suspension that do not cause me stress on the slab.
- Radio/MP3.
- Staying hydrated, well-rested, and moderately-fed on healthy stuff.
- Keeping the attitude of adventure.

I don't have a windscreen, but a lot of DR owners like them.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:35 PM   #78923
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideAlongAtlas1 View Post
Those hex screws attaching the exhaust's protection guard are a bastard to get off. Bloody fell off my new bike on the road as 10kph n the guard worked well, but it's bent now. I wanted to bend it back, but Feck-Mohammed there on tight
Muffler or header?

Try it when they're hot.
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Some are guard dogs of the flock. Some herders, search/rescue, or companions. We Devildogs are those, and also retrievers. Hell is our blazing dogpark, our frigid swimming hole. The fallen are our tennis balls. We don't leave the fallen behind, even if the master has to bring them home for us. Semper Fi, my friends.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:53 PM   #78924
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Thanks for the great write-up, K.

I have a Sargeant on order now (the stock seat was fine until at about 6000 miles, 10 years old, the cushioning just seemed to go away). Last thing I'm gonna need for an initial big trip is the fuel tank.

Beyond that, pegs(?) and suspension are to come I guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Toughen up your butt and just relax.



Seriously, though...A lot of it is in your mindset. I did over 1100 miles in a day on my DR when it was darn-near stock. The stock seat didn't even really put me off much. I'm 5'8"/30" inseam, BTW.

You can remove the rubber inserts from the peg brackets and then cut/weld the brackets before putting the rubber back in. I recommend wider pegs too. I also moved mine rearwards a little bit. It's a bit more roomy for long rides, but the biggest space improvement was clearance for my offroad boots by the shifter. With the lowered pegs and rearward shift, moving from seated to standing and back is easier. I also consider installing a lower seat now and then.

I like having the Happy Trails touring pegs on my skid too, but they could be sturdier, and I don't use them for very long usually. Much like also lowering my passenger pegs 2", the main benefit is just being able to move my feet around occasionally. I still ride most of the miles on the rider pegs.

The important attributes I have for doing big mileage in a day on the DR are:

- Big tank. Stopping for gas every 150 miles kills time. I have an IMS that holds over 5.3gal, but I'm shopping for a good deal on a used Safari tank.
- Multiple foot positions. This allows you to stretch out or scrunch up. it allows you to change the angle of your seating and your upper body.
- Comfy seat.
- Gear that keeps you comfortable.
- Throttle lock and/or CrampBuster on comfy grips, with handguards over them.
- Good lights, 360 degrees. Ride early to late, but stay alert.
- Power and gearing to easily cruise with traffic and to pass trucks. Tuning the carbing to get decent MPG helps too.
- A quiet exhaust that isn't "barky".
- Tires and suspension that do not cause me stress on the slab.
- Radio/MP3.
- Staying hydrated, well-rested, and moderately-fed on healthy stuff.
- Keeping the attitude of adventure.

I don't have a windscreen, but a lot of DR owners like them.
__________________
"After reading through this thread I've come to the conclusion
that more people cruise the internet looking for reasons why
X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
their motorcycles
." --
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:14 PM   #78925
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Coudl someone here extoll the virtues, if any, for a 5'10" rider and lowered footpegs? What did you notice?
I've ridden my DR on one trip so far, and during that trip I didn't really ever think 'Hey, these footpegs need lowered!", nor did I get the leg cramps that some of my other bikes had given me.
I could see widening the footpegs, instead, for more comfort (I'm on a budget here, yet that seems to make more sense to me out of the two alterations).
Then there's the whole losing of the rubber-damped footpeg mounts for most kits if I were to do it. Not sure that's a great idea either...
What I'm trying to make is a bike I could do a 700 or more mile day if I wanted to (yet, yes, out of a dual sport).
If your current peg height is not bothering you ... leave it alone. I agree, I would NOT lose the rubber damping inserts on your pegs. Wide pegs are a PLUS when riding off road, standing up. The wider foot platform is less tiring on a long day off road. If only road riding, not really an issue, but off road it makes a difference.

One sure thing that makes the DR650 a better long day bike is proper drive line set up. When it's right, it's smooth. If not, grinding vibes can get to you.
The DR seems a bit sensitive to worn sprockets, chain or Cush drive rubber bumpers. Chain alignment is important as well. The chain rollers make noise which is really just a distraction. Ideal bar position also helps ... and doing long days being able to shift around is good.

Doing long days takes practice and following some of the methods Kommando outlined. Keeping hydrated is important. And don't forget to stretch before the ride ... and at every gas stop. As a kid I was a Gymnast ... this is where I learned the importance of stretching and staying loose. Eat very light, big meals will put you to sleep.

Kommando also mentions attitude and mind set. Doing long days requires you be in the right frame of mind. If you're miserable ... pull over, get a room or set up camp. Don't push it. Keep it fun. Riding out here makes long days easy!

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 07-20-2013 at 09:21 PM
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:15 PM   #78926
Jenn
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Location: Oakland, CA
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1100 miles in a day on a motorcycle sounds pretty boring. So does 1100 miles in a day in any motorized vehicle except an airplane.
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:19 AM   #78927
tuscan
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Location: Nu Ziland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn View Post
1100 miles in a day on a motorcycle sounds pretty boring. So does 1100 miles in a day in any motorized vehicle except an airplane.
Clearly RIDING a bike isn't what interests you then.......

On a good day when the bike is right, the motor's humming, the road goes on forever and you're in the zone - why ever not?? For some this is close to Nirvana........

Whatever bloats your float....
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:43 AM   #78928
nsrrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn View Post
1100 miles in a day on a motorcycle sounds pretty boring. So does 1100 miles in a day in any motorized vehicle except an airplane.
not necessarily boring......but 1100 miles in a day on a bike is long freakin' day.....
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:49 AM   #78929
Ever Onward
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After nearly 40 years of rideing, mega distance days have no appeal to me.

Been there, done that decades ago. Actually a waste of fuel mostly, dont remember even a fraction of what I went past.

But, give me a 500 mile day, with alot of stops to see the sights and smell the roses all day long, and thats what the DR is goin to be for !
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:35 AM   #78930
Tech23
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Location: Arizona Desert
Oddometer: 468
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
NOW you guys post this... one day after me ordering my first Sargeant, and with specific colored 'piping' (or welt).

Is it really that noticeable?!
You won't notice the welt while riding, you'll mostly notice the welt when you stop and put your feet down. The more you put your feet down the more you'll notice it. In stop and go traffic you'll notice the chaffing on your inner thigh.

On the lowered footpeg topic I was also concerned about losing the factory rubber-damped mounts but I wanted more room on the bike. I went with the Pro Cycle lowered pegs. I'm 5'9" and ride 99% street, there is no additional vibration to be concerned about. The biggest difference is you won't have that droopy peg feeling when you stand on the pegs. I'm picky about control setup and the Pro Cycle lower and wider pegs have the extra width added to the leading edge of the foot pegs which moved my feet closer to the shifter and brake pedal, since I have my DR setup for Supermoto I don't stand much or need the extra peg width. I put the factory pegs on the bike lowered peg brackets, now the distance from the pegs to the controls is perfect for me.

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