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Old 07-25-2013, 12:19 AM   #79081
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 306
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
and now I think I should. So what do you guys like? Is the name "Bark Buster" now a generic term? Are they good? Are there better? How's the fit with no changes to stock levers and stuff on bars?

Thanks.
Highway dirt bike makes some robust handguards. Although expensive, look at their site and you see why you pay a bit more.

http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_...ref=handguards

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Currently riding DR650 (2011)
Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod
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Old 07-25-2013, 04:02 AM   #79082
greer
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
Oddometer: 3,630
cush drive shims and EK link

Yep, I believe I posted about shims a few months back; went that route after I read about it here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=825325


Another thing, the EK screw-type chain link (scroll down a bit on the site):

http://www.ekchain.jp/feature/index.html

About 4,000 miles on it now and it looks just like it did when I put it on there. I've always used clip links but every now and then I'd lose one and it would unnerve me a bit, especially on long trips. But I didn't know if I trusted myself to rivet a chain properly, plus I'm too cheap to buy a good rivet tool. The EK link presses the plate on as part of the install, so it's a no-brainer. I think it'll be the ticket for me from now on.

Sarah
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Old 07-25-2013, 04:13 AM   #79083
Ever Onward
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Past the point of no return
Oddometer: 607
It just keeps gettin better !


After the success of the Motolab carb parts, I went and did a bit more service the other night.

Lubed the chain with Blue Dupont teflon spray, Changed oil and filter useing high end Castrol 10w-40, adjusted the enrichener plunger to be sure there was some slack in the cable to FULLY seat it in the carb. I readjusted the idle mixture screw again to get it spot on also..

I took the long way to and from work yesterday to make a 91 mile test loop.

Conditions were no wind, slightly hilly pavement with a bit of overgrown double track short cuts for a few miles. Speed on pavement was 50 - 60 MPH and 1st gear putt putt in the short cuts.

In 91 miles I used 1.45 gallons of non ethenol fuel.....thats 62.75 MPG !

Im not gonna mod a single thing on the airbox / engine or exhaust !



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Old 07-25-2013, 04:31 AM   #79084
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Yep, I believe I posted about shims a few months back; went that route after I read about it here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=825325


Another thing, the EK screw-type chain link (scroll down a bit on the site):

http://www.ekchain.jp/feature/index.html

About 4,000 miles on it now and it looks just like it did when I put it on there. I've always used clip links but every now and then I'd lose one and it would unnerve me a bit, especially on long trips. But I didn't know if I trusted myself to rivet a chain properly, plus I'm too cheap to buy a good rivet tool. The EK link presses the plate on as part of the install, so it's a no-brainer. I think it'll be the ticket for me from now on.

Sarah
I have a good chain rivet tool (D.I.D.) and I nearly always rivet my chains because it's just one less potential failure point AND a failed chain can be catastrophic. That said I put a clip style link on my son's SV650 in order to "use up" a partially worn chain taken off my DL before an extended road trip. However, I safety wired the clip link. That was required protocol on tracks back when clip links were the standard.
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:06 AM   #79085
AKASY
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Joined: Nov 2008
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Guards

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
and now I think I should. So what do you guys like? Is the name "Bark Buster" now a generic term? Are they good? Are there better? How's the fit with no changes to stock levers and stuff on bars?

Thanks.
IMHO two issues on a stock DR. Go to the Pro Cycle site and go to controls, then to the hand guard kit. In my experience on my last two DR's clearance for the hand guards over the levers was an issue. The Pro Cycle kit worked for me--cleared the stock levers. Second issue is what size bars do you want. If you are going to the larger bars from the 7/8 stock then get the bars and the guards that are compatible together and install them together. I stayed with the stock 7/8 bars.
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:41 AM   #79086
brucifer
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Location: Eureka, Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbster View Post
What's the biggest carb you've seen mounted on a DR?

I have gone pretty big, 790, 4mm oversized valves, cam, mega port work and pipe/header. My fcr 39 can't feed it. I'm talking with someone more knowledgeable than me about boring 43-44mm.

Has anyone done such a thing?
Talk to Cyclewizard. You can usually find him on the Honda XR650L thread. He has modified carbs to work with his full-house 742cc XRL engines. He may be able to help you with something for your DR.
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:53 AM   #79087
Carl Childers
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Northern New Mexico
Oddometer: 328
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbster View Post
What's the biggest carb you've seen mounted on a DR?

I have gone pretty big, 790, 4mm oversized valves, cam, mega port work and pipe/header. My fcr 39 can't feed it. I'm talking with someone more knowledgeable than me about boring 43-44mm.

Has anyone done such a thing?
Rochester 4 barrel ?
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:58 AM   #79088
greer
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
Oddometer: 3,630
Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I have a good chain rivet tool (D.I.D.) and I nearly always rivet my chains because it's just one less potential failure point AND a failed chain can be catastrophic. That said I put a clip style link on my son's SV650 in order to "use up" a partially worn chain taken off my DL before an extended road trip. However, I safety wired the clip link. That was required protocol on tracks back when clip links were the standard.
Thank you, thump!

I always sealed the clip with silicone, but safety wire would be the real deal.

By the way, if you were to re-lube your starter, would you use something other than the DuPont stuff next go round? I got a little early-morning squawk wanting to back. Thanks again.

Sarah
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:25 AM   #79089
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Thank you, thump!

I always sealed the clip with silicone, but safety wire would be the real deal.

By the way, if you were to re-lube your starter, would you use something other than the DuPont stuff next go round? I got a little early-morning squawk wanting to back. Thanks again.

Sarah
If you're going to the trouble of lubing your starter bushing, you might want to do it right and put the Warp 9 cover/bearing in, instead. Then you won't need to do it again.

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Old 07-25-2013, 06:27 AM   #79090
Mambo Dave
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Location: Pompano Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
and now I think I should. So what do you guys like? Is the name "Bark Buster" now a generic term? Are they good? Are there better? How's the fit with no changes to stock levers and stuff on bars?

Thanks.
I use the term like the term Kleenex, so yes from my stretch of the world.

The 'bark busters' I bought are Moose Racing, and I like them... but I haven't fully tested them like some of my enduro racing friends used to. But Moose has been around a long time, and seems to make (or sometimes rebrand) OK parts.

For my uses, since I live in a state that is hot more than not, I didn't go for the extra plastic hand guard extensions on top of them - more air to he gloves this way.

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Mambo Dave screwed with this post 07-25-2013 at 06:33 AM
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:40 AM   #79091
frecks
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Location: Michigan, USA
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I need to tighten the steering stem on my DR650. I wouldn't mind adding some grease to the bearings while I'm at it. While I track down a 32mm (or 1-1/4") socket can anyone tell me if I need any other tools to do this? Is there something inside that I have to tighten or am I literally just tightening the 32mm nut on the top?
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:29 AM   #79092
bradrh
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: lakewood, co
Oddometer: 353
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I'm beginning to think I should switch back to a stock rear sprocket and a 16 front here in the plains fuck. I have 16/45 now and I just dont think its good for the motor to do 5000 rpms for hours on end. I've been keeping it between 62-65 (actual mph gps calibrated, or 72-75 indicated). Had the 45 so I could gear down in Alaska. How are things out east? At least in the west/plains I can choose secondary highways and watch behind me. I'm worried all I'll find is freeways in the east.
I'm not suggesting that you shouldn't change your sprockets if you want higher gearing, but that gearing at that speed is only about 4250 RPM (according to gearingcommander). If you gear it up you're going to have to go faster to keep it up in the power curve
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:22 AM   #79093
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Just chaulk it up to doing your part to stimulate the economy.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parabl..._broken_window.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:29 AM   #79094
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post

Forget the bark busters...wuz zup with those grips?
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:33 AM   #79095
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
After inflation it is now the 1.26 Billion Dollar Highway.

Technically, the Million Dollar Highway is US550 between Silverton and Ouray, Colorado.
Funny, I was thinking that a million doesn't buy much highway these days.
Maybe a dead end street.
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