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Old 07-25-2013, 10:51 AM   #79081
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolsk8ter View Post
Anybody use the Seat concepts "TALL" version?

I have seen the feedback on the standard and it is looking great from that end.

I am 6' 2" and am thinking about getting the "Tall".

Any pictures?? does it look odd with too much seat thickness?
From about a week ago.:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=79020

I like mine a lot.

and here's how it makes the bike look: (better imo)
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:52 AM   #79082
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
You can spend as much as you want on hand guards, but they are all pretty much the same. Some are fancier than others and install easier, but the cheap ones work just as well as the expensive ones in my experience. I got mine from ProCycle. All will require a little bit of manipulation to make fit, but it is not difficult. The trick to installing them is to leave all of the bolts loose until you get it lined up how you want it, then tighten them down while holding it in position.

If you still have the stock bars, you might want to look at new bars while you are installing the hand guards and have to move stuff around anyhow. Mine (96) still had the stock bars and they had been tweaked a little bit, so I replaced them with new Pro-Taper bars with a higher bend for better ergonomics while standing, plus new grips since all the "bite" was worn off the original grips.

Tim
Well said Tim, I think you've about covered it all on bark busters. I've used bark busters for years on "real" dirt bikes ... going back to mid 80's. Back then Acerbis was about the only game in town. Now ... you have choices.
I took a chance on my $30 Tusk guards ... and they've worked out very well. The adjustability on the Tusk is actually BETTER than many more expensive guards.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
I took Grifter's advice (if memory serves) and went with some Tusk brand handguards thru Rocky Mtn ATV/MC. They're reasonably priced, installed easily and have held up well on some spills.

I've had a variety and they've all done their job but the price was right on the Tusk.
Yep, Rocky Mountain has the Tusk as a house brand. As you say, for the price, a very good deal.

Installing will always be a learning curve and may require some bending and hammering. But do as Tim says ... leave everything loose. Also, your stock levers should be angled DOWN, below the Alu hand guard which should be set parallel to the ground. This will make it easier on your wrists when standing and will allow levers to clear the guard bar.

Also agree ... it's a good time to replace stock handle bars with either Fat Bars or whatever ... and add risers if you need them. You will have to move things around ... like the master cylinder and switch pods, throttle, but that is normal with a Bark Buster install. You'll learn a lot about how all that stuff works. Have fun!
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:54 AM   #79083
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stock tires

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I really liked the IRC GP-1s for an all around tire. For street and dirt roads and even sand they handled well IMO. The only place I found them lacking was in wet mud/clay. The lugs would load up and not clear well.

I think the price has went up on them since I bought a set. I think Shinko makes a tire with the same pattern that many guys like (I haven't tried the Shinko).
The stock tires work nicely on the pavement, and dry fire roads, They are soft compound and wear rapidly, I only got about 3K out of them.

Art
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:59 AM   #79084
FirstPath
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Originally Posted by oldenuf View Post
The stock tires work nicely on the pavement, and dry fire roads, They are soft compound and wear rapidly, I only got about 3K out of them.

Art
I'm zooming in on 2K on my stocks. Mostly pavement commuting and I like them a lot! The muddy trail ride wasn't where they shined. Sucked actually.
I have a trip planned in early Sept. which will probably take the tires to the 3500 mile mark. I'll be hitting some dirt roads but will mainly be paved. I suspect they'll be done by then from the looks of the condition they are in now.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:04 AM   #79085
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
It's not even 80,000 posts

Ride, don't read...post your Q's, prepare to get beat up, but the answers will come anyway.

Welcome.
From experience?
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Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:05 AM   #79086
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drt0M View Post
I just brought home a 2013 dr650 this week and i'm looking for some different tires than the stock bridgestones. The avon gripsters and dunlop d606 are the two that caught my eye so far. Any reviews / suggestions? I will be riding on mostly street
The Gripster is suited for mostly-pavement use. The D606 is more suited for mostly-offroad use.

Many people like the inexpensive Shinko 705 for mostly street and dry offroad. The Kenda K761 is a popular rear tire for mostly pavement too, but the front K761 tends to wear unevenly. The inexpensive Shinko 700 and 244 front tires are popular for DS mostly-pavement use as well.

I ride considerable amounts of soft offroad terrain, as well as hot slab and street pavement. I like an inexpensive all-around longevity tire on the rear, and a reversible knobby on the front. I currently run a $60-$70 Kenda K270 rear (130/80-17), and a $22 non-DOT AMS Sand Snake MX knob up front. I have no trouble getting around, offroad or onroad, but I don't drag pegs on pavement. My current front tire is not reversible, though it has lasted around 4K miles. Some people get around 10K miles from a rear K270 or K761. It seems that I get closer to 6K miles, but I ride 2up quite a bit, and I don't run the knobs down to the carcass.

Other popular aggressive front DS tires for the DR are the IRC TR8, the Pirelli MT21, and the Pirelli XCMH. They're better on the pavement than the ridiculously-aggressive front knobby I use, but they cost a bit more. Some of these are reversible, for max longevity.

Kommando screwed with this post 07-25-2013 at 04:51 PM
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:05 AM   #79087
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I use the term like the term Kleenex, so yes from my stretch of the world.

The 'bark busters' I bought are Moose Racing, and I like them... but I haven't fully tested them like some of my enduro racing friends used to. But Moose has been around a long time, and seems to make (or sometimes rebrand) OK parts.

For my uses, since I live in a state that is hot more than not, I didn't go for the extra plastic hand guard extensions on top of them - more air to he gloves this way.
There is a company using the "Bark Buster" name now ... I think Twisted Throttle carries them ... very nice quality.

The main reason for plastic covers over the bark busters is to prevent branches going in there and jerking you off the bike ... trust me on this one! Not a good thing. Even those sickly, skinny Florida pines will jerk your bike clean out from under you if a branch goes through between the guard and handlebar. WHOOOP! At least angle them down just a bit.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:05 AM   #79088
motolab
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i also drilled a 2nd hole in the slide. he says parts wear out faster this way but i'm happy and will just pop for a carb rebuild every so often is this is truly the case.
To the fact that the parts wear out twice as fast comes the fact that there is not likely to be a performance advantage. I had a KTM 640 Adventure on the dyno that gained ~1 hp from 5.5K to red line simply by going from the double-hole KTM slide to the single hole late DR slide. Gains were also made across the entire range at 1/4 opening while the mixture essentially stayed the same, with a max gain in torque of 1.4 ft-lbs at 3K rpm. There were gains across the board at 1/8 opening, with a max gain in torque of 2.6 ft-lbs at 2K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 3.4K to 5K rpm. There were also gains across the board at 1/16 opening, with a max gain in torque of 1.2 ft-lbs at 2.5K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 2.5K to 3K rpm.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:11 AM   #79089
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
it would be really nice of that FP needle was available separately but you need to buy there whole kit to get the needle.
You can buy the 6F19 and 6H11 needles separately.
Quote:
....there is also a spectrograph image with exact size measurements of the needle floating around out there too is anyone has that to post.
What is meant by "spectrograph image" in this context?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:17 AM   #79090
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
One of the DR gurus said something to the effect of: "The bike will be unrideable long before you do any engine damage from being too lean."
If that were so, then there would not be reports of pinging on completely stock bikes.
Quote:
I'd lean your needle (raise the clip), until the bike showed its displeasure, then go back to the position that worked.
The position that just works will still be too lean.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:21 AM   #79091
motolab
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Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Just a big shout out to Derek at Motolab.

I got my carb parts in and went on a good test ride to see how good it works.


I started with a BONE STOCK DR engine / intake / exhaust. BONE STOCK ! No mods of any sort at all.....just like it would be in the showroom new.

The bike like that had a HUGE lean spot right off idle all the way through half throttle. It also was lean on idle circut, but not impossible lean.

I then drilled the brass plug outta the low speed mixture screw cavity, removed the stock screw, installed a extended length OEM genuine Mikuni screw in place of the stocker.

I then removed the stock needle in the slide. I replaced it with a 6f19 non usa needle I got from Motolab.

This needle has 5 clip positions to choose from, much like any old Mikuni VM from back in the day.

I started in the middle position. Warmed the bike up fully, adjusted the idle mixture screw as per Derek's method. I then tried the bike.

Still stumbling lean at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Took the needle out and lowered the clip one spot, which makes the fuel mixture richer. PERFECT !!!!!

Bike runs super clean, any throttle position is great, excellent transitions between throttle positions, no "Lean exhaust burbles or backfires" under heavy decelleration on steep downhills.

It was kinda windy yesterday and I went on a 120 mile test. Im at 1200 feet above sea level, running non ethenol fuel on pavement at 60 MPH for the test.......results ? 56 MPG




Sweet!

Where was the picture taken?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:22 AM   #79092
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
or, you can walk out into the woods behind my house and grab the one I tossed there. If riding off road at all, it's just a place for mud and grass to collect and wear your chain prematurely.
It's true, the plastic countershaft cover can collect crap ... especially if you're using a sticky chain lube.
I retain the cover for two reasons: 1. Safety 2. Noise

I hear more chain Whirr with the cover off. (highway speeds)
I pull my cover off periodically to clean. With 90W gear oil or Dupont Teflon, almost NO build up happens. I don't ride much in Mud, but a quick blast with a hose expels most mud quickly.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:23 AM   #79093
motolab
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Do you have a link to their site? The one I found on google was not very intuitive. Thanks
The best place to look for now is here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:37 AM   #79094
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Who can elaborate on what years and models used the BST?

Also what's the FP?
FP: "Factory Pro", a company that sell Jet Kits et al. I've forgotten who it is that make their needles for them ... ? Maybe Sudco? Dunno. Derek may know this.

IIRC, KTM have used the Mikuni BST for years. My '99 640E had one as did my '01 KTM Duke ll. Later 640 dual sports also use the BST. I've forgotten when they switched to Fuel Injection ... perhaps not until '07 and the KTM 690E dual sport? Another friend has a '03 640 ADV, also uses the BST40.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:41 AM   #79095
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
FP: "Factory Pro", a company that sell Jet Kits et al. I've forgotten who it is that make their needles for them ... ? Maybe Sudco? Dunno. Derek may know this.

IIRC, KTM have used the Mikuni BST for years. My '99 640E had one as did my '01 KTM Duke ll. Later 640 dual sports also use the BST. I've forgotten when they switched to Fuel Injection ... perhaps not until '07 and the KTM 690E dual sport? Another friend has a '03 640 ADV, also uses the BST40.
Thanks.
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2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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