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Old 07-25-2013, 09:59 AM   #79081
FirstPath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldenuf View Post
The stock tires work nicely on the pavement, and dry fire roads, They are soft compound and wear rapidly, I only got about 3K out of them.

Art
I'm zooming in on 2K on my stocks. Mostly pavement commuting and I like them a lot! The muddy trail ride wasn't where they shined. Sucked actually.
I have a trip planned in early Sept. which will probably take the tires to the 3500 mile mark. I'll be hitting some dirt roads but will mainly be paved. I suspect they'll be done by then from the looks of the condition they are in now.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:04 AM   #79082
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
It's not even 80,000 posts

Ride, don't read...post your Q's, prepare to get beat up, but the answers will come anyway.

Welcome.
From experience?
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:05 AM   #79083
Kommando
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Originally Posted by drt0M View Post
I just brought home a 2013 dr650 this week and i'm looking for some different tires than the stock bridgestones. The avon gripsters and dunlop d606 are the two that caught my eye so far. Any reviews / suggestions? I will be riding on mostly street
The Gripster is suited for mostly-pavement use. The D606 is more suited for mostly-offroad use.

Many people like the inexpensive Shinko 705 for mostly street and dry offroad. The Kenda K761 is a popular rear tire for mostly pavement too, but the front K761 tends to wear unevenly. The inexpensive Shinko 700 and 244 front tires are popular for DS mostly-pavement use as well.

I ride considerable amounts of soft offroad terrain, as well as hot slab and street pavement. I like an inexpensive all-around longevity tire on the rear, and a reversible knobby on the front. I currently run a $60-$70 Kenda K270 rear (130/80-17), and a $22 non-DOT AMS Sand Snake MX knob up front. I have no trouble getting around, offroad or onroad, but I don't drag pegs on pavement. My current front tire is not reversible, though it has lasted around 4K miles. Some people get around 10K miles from a rear K270 or K761. It seems that I get closer to 6K miles, but I ride 2up quite a bit, and I don't run the knobs down to the carcass.

Other popular aggressive front DS tires for the DR are the IRC TR8, the Pirelli MT21, and the Pirelli XCMH. They're better on the pavement than the ridiculously-aggressive front knobby I use, but they cost a bit more. Some of these are reversible, for max longevity.

Kommando screwed with this post 07-25-2013 at 03:51 PM
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:05 AM   #79084
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I use the term like the term Kleenex, so yes from my stretch of the world.

The 'bark busters' I bought are Moose Racing, and I like them... but I haven't fully tested them like some of my enduro racing friends used to. But Moose has been around a long time, and seems to make (or sometimes rebrand) OK parts.

For my uses, since I live in a state that is hot more than not, I didn't go for the extra plastic hand guard extensions on top of them - more air to he gloves this way.
There is a company using the "Bark Buster" name now ... I think Twisted Throttle carries them ... very nice quality.

The main reason for plastic covers over the bark busters is to prevent branches going in there and jerking you off the bike ... trust me on this one! Not a good thing. Even those sickly, skinny Florida pines will jerk your bike clean out from under you if a branch goes through between the guard and handlebar. WHOOOP! At least angle them down just a bit.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:05 AM   #79085
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i also drilled a 2nd hole in the slide. he says parts wear out faster this way but i'm happy and will just pop for a carb rebuild every so often is this is truly the case.
To the fact that the parts wear out twice as fast comes the fact that there is not likely to be a performance advantage. I had a KTM 640 Adventure on the dyno that gained ~1 hp from 5.5K to red line simply by going from the double-hole KTM slide to the single hole late DR slide. Gains were also made across the entire range at 1/4 opening while the mixture essentially stayed the same, with a max gain in torque of 1.4 ft-lbs at 3K rpm. There were gains across the board at 1/8 opening, with a max gain in torque of 2.6 ft-lbs at 2K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 3.4K to 5K rpm. There were also gains across the board at 1/16 opening, with a max gain in torque of 1.2 ft-lbs at 2.5K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 2.5K to 3K rpm.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:11 AM   #79086
motolab
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
it would be really nice of that FP needle was available separately but you need to buy there whole kit to get the needle.
You can buy the 6F19 and 6H11 needles separately.
Quote:
....there is also a spectrograph image with exact size measurements of the needle floating around out there too is anyone has that to post.
What is meant by "spectrograph image" in this context?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:17 AM   #79087
motolab
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
One of the DR gurus said something to the effect of: "The bike will be unrideable long before you do any engine damage from being too lean."
If that were so, then there would not be reports of pinging on completely stock bikes.
Quote:
I'd lean your needle (raise the clip), until the bike showed its displeasure, then go back to the position that worked.
The position that just works will still be too lean.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:21 AM   #79088
motolab
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Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Just a big shout out to Derek at Motolab.

I got my carb parts in and went on a good test ride to see how good it works.


I started with a BONE STOCK DR engine / intake / exhaust. BONE STOCK ! No mods of any sort at all.....just like it would be in the showroom new.

The bike like that had a HUGE lean spot right off idle all the way through half throttle. It also was lean on idle circut, but not impossible lean.

I then drilled the brass plug outta the low speed mixture screw cavity, removed the stock screw, installed a extended length OEM genuine Mikuni screw in place of the stocker.

I then removed the stock needle in the slide. I replaced it with a 6f19 non usa needle I got from Motolab.

This needle has 5 clip positions to choose from, much like any old Mikuni VM from back in the day.

I started in the middle position. Warmed the bike up fully, adjusted the idle mixture screw as per Derek's method. I then tried the bike.

Still stumbling lean at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Took the needle out and lowered the clip one spot, which makes the fuel mixture richer. PERFECT !!!!!

Bike runs super clean, any throttle position is great, excellent transitions between throttle positions, no "Lean exhaust burbles or backfires" under heavy decelleration on steep downhills.

It was kinda windy yesterday and I went on a 120 mile test. Im at 1200 feet above sea level, running non ethenol fuel on pavement at 60 MPH for the test.......results ? 56 MPG




Sweet!

Where was the picture taken?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:22 AM   #79089
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
or, you can walk out into the woods behind my house and grab the one I tossed there. If riding off road at all, it's just a place for mud and grass to collect and wear your chain prematurely.
It's true, the plastic countershaft cover can collect crap ... especially if you're using a sticky chain lube.
I retain the cover for two reasons: 1. Safety 2. Noise

I hear more chain Whirr with the cover off. (highway speeds)
I pull my cover off periodically to clean. With 90W gear oil or Dupont Teflon, almost NO build up happens. I don't ride much in Mud, but a quick blast with a hose expels most mud quickly.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:23 AM   #79090
motolab
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Do you have a link to their site? The one I found on google was not very intuitive. Thanks
The best place to look for now is here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:37 AM   #79091
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Who can elaborate on what years and models used the BST?

Also what's the FP?
FP: "Factory Pro", a company that sell Jet Kits et al. I've forgotten who it is that make their needles for them ... ? Maybe Sudco? Dunno. Derek may know this.

IIRC, KTM have used the Mikuni BST for years. My '99 640E had one as did my '01 KTM Duke ll. Later 640 dual sports also use the BST. I've forgotten when they switched to Fuel Injection ... perhaps not until '07 and the KTM 690E dual sport? Another friend has a '03 640 ADV, also uses the BST40.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:41 AM   #79092
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
FP: "Factory Pro", a company that sell Jet Kits et al. I've forgotten who it is that make their needles for them ... ? Maybe Sudco? Dunno. Derek may know this.

IIRC, KTM have used the Mikuni BST for years. My '99 640E had one as did my '01 KTM Duke ll. Later 640 dual sports also use the BST. I've forgotten when they switched to Fuel Injection ... perhaps not until '07 and the KTM 690E dual sport? Another friend has a '03 640 ADV, also uses the BST40.
Thanks.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:55 AM   #79093
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drt0M View Post
I just brought home a 2013 dr650 this week and i'm looking for some different tires than the stock bridgestones. The avon gripsters and dunlop d606 are the two that caught my eye so far. Any reviews / suggestions? I will be riding on mostly street
For commuting Avon Gripster is an ideal tire (rear one) it's an 80/20 tire (80% on rd) you can go on fire road or minor off-road stuff. You can get 4k to 5k miles out of it. Another choice for a good 50/50 tire is the Kenda K270, front and rear had good reviews. Can't stand the 606's imho.
Here's the Gripster reviews/details.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

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Old 07-25-2013, 11:00 AM   #79094
motolab
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Who can elaborate on what years and models used the BST?
'00 KTM 400SXC, '01 400 LC4-E, '03 625SXC (USA only), '98-'07 640LC4 use 6G5.
Quote:
Also what's the FP?
Factory Pro 1155H-70W8.

Regards,

Derek

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Old 07-25-2013, 11:06 AM   #79095
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
You can buy the 6F19 and 6H11 needles separately.What is meant by "spectrograph image" in this context?

Regards,

Derek
Spectrographs.....special needle tapers and long jetting hunts.
I still dont understand why mine runs fine stock,it boggles the mind the time guys spend on these carbs. Reg or premium Ive never heard it ping.
At 28,000 miles on it I will take the carb off sometime to check for wear but have yet to touch the thing.

I do dial in the jetting on my KTM 2 strokes,but that's easy.
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