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Old 08-09-2013, 07:04 PM   #79831
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
Oddometer: 10,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
you messin' with us Pike? you've been a member since 2008 and have 6000+ posts.
Just ask him about guns. Just sayin...
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- Calculated risk or forbidden fruit?

FatChance screwed with this post 08-09-2013 at 07:18 PM
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:11 PM   #79832
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
Oddometer: 10,010
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Originally Posted by teaguenotes View Post
I was changing my front sprocket yesterday. I took off the old one and put the new one back on. When I was tightening the new sprocket on all the bolt heads snapped off. So I went about putting the old one back one...question is I went to the hardware store and found exact same size bolts, except they are allen headed instead of hex. I got them as tight as I could with a big allen wrench and some blue threadlock. I'm going to canada and back from San Francisco on the bike over the next week and a half and want to make sure I'm not committing any big safety hazard. I'm a noob at working on my own bike. Opinions welcomed. Thanks

http://www.flickr.com/photos/96688140@N05/9469043612/
If you don't have the feel, a torque wrench is your friend. Also, run a tap through the threads on a new sprocket.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:22 PM   #79833
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 8,673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
Yes, thats how you have the freeplay (slack) in the cable set. The picture shows the right amount of freeplay, you can "feel" when it starts to actually pull on the clutch if you just use one finger lightly to slowly pull the lever till you feel the added resistance. Stop right at that point and observe the gap in the lever and holder.
I think the gap in the picture is actually about twice what it should be. If the gap's too much, the plates can be too close together when the lever is pulled in, causing more heat through the plates. This is made worse by some people's belief in keeping the bike in gear at stop lights, so they can make a quick exit if someone comes to hit them from behind.

Also, too much play in the cable will make the bike klunk a lot more when you put it into first gear.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:32 PM   #79834
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 8,673
Quote:
Originally Posted by warp9man View Post
Hey M1jeep, thank you, we work closely with Jeff and the guys at procycle and I think we can say were both happy to bring out some cool stuff for the DR Community.!
And we do appreciate it! Those levers and starter caps just ooze quality. And we're the only ones who know how little we paid for it!
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:41 PM   #79835
RobTheRigger
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Gone fishin'.
Oddometer: 673
I'm building a farkle list in my head for a bike I don't have yet, but I like the idea of the bolt on guard. As far as a larger rear disk... meh. Unless you're doing it because you don't have anything else to upgrade, I can think of 100 other things to upgrade before putting a larger rear disk on. I think adding a second front disk would be FAR more beneficial <---- HINT HINT (albeit pretty darned expensive) than adding a larger rear. Just my measly 2.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:51 PM   #79836
panhead_pete
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Joined: Jul 2012
Oddometer: 853
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Pete - look at the pic on PC's site in case yours didn't come "assembled".... I remember it being fairly intuitive once I got the headlight shroud removed so if you haven't taken that step, it might help.

Give it a whirl....ask away.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJDMgcPh7B8

http://www.hotbikeweb.com/tech/0904_...light_install/

^^^^some help....?
Thanks! Will give it a go in the morning then report back :)
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:07 PM   #79837
motolab
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Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,064
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlmaffucci View Post
How do you correctly jet the carburetor on this thing? I want the best possible mpg but I also want to be able to ride from the coast to the mountains with no trouble. Is the stock carb fine the way it is or what.
Given that the carb is stock, the airbox is stock and that the carb is not worn, just install the adjustable non-USA OEM jet needle, tune the clip position and adjust the idle mixture.

How many miles are there on the carb?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:35 PM   #79838
JTB488
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Fremont,MI
Oddometer: 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post


Ordered my WARP 9 stuff today.

Warp 9 "3-Finger" Levers
Warp 9 Ball Bearing Starter Cap


And the new Warp 9 320 mm front rotor kit. Left out from ProCycle! I want one to go with this order .
I've had the 3 finger levers on for a little over a week now, AWESOME!
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:42 PM   #79839
warp9man
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Layton Utah
Oddometer: 552
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTB488 View Post
I've had the 3 finger levers on for a little over a week now, AWESOME!
Hey JTB488. Thanks man!
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:32 PM   #79840
celticpride2133
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Joined: Aug 2013
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Im looking to get a dr650 but have a limited budget. How old would you recommend to go or what years would you avoid? I would like to stay close to 1.5k. Thanks
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:35 AM   #79841
Ever Onward
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Past the point of no return
Oddometer: 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Given that the carb is stock, the airbox is stock and that the carb is not worn, just install the adjustable non-USA OEM jet needle, tune the clip position and adjust the idle mixture.

How many miles are there on the carb?

Regards,

Derek

I did just this, and my bike runs excellent at ALL throttle positions. Im getting 58 - 62 MPG. Good idea to replace all O-rings and gaskets while your in there too.

It's not some complicated VooDoo if everything on your bike is totally stock. All you do is get the needle that it would have come with if it wasnt a USA edition, install it and tune the needle and the low speed adjustment screw and your golden. No need for anything else if you want a perfect running stocker that gets 60 MPG.
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:31 AM   #79842
Carl Childers
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Northern New Mexico
Oddometer: 327
Quote:
Originally Posted by warp9man View Post
Hey guys so I need some input from the DR community. I am working on a DR rear disk guard with brake caliper carrier so you dont have to do the weld on thing. So I drew up the cad drawings and had an idea of making the caliper mounts (in purple) able to be replaced with taller mounts to accommodate a larger rear rotor for the guys that are heavily loaded or just want better braking perfomance. So think of it as an oversized brake kit for the rear. To me it seems like the rear brake is a bit week but maybe its me? Thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.

Your humble DR parts slave...Kevin

I like the no weld disc guard idea, I have no need or interest in a larger brake disc though.
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:32 AM   #79843
warp9man
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Layton Utah
Oddometer: 552
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I like the no weld disc guard idea, I have no need or interest in a larger brake disc though.
Thank you for the input Carl
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:51 AM   #79844
bosley1980
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Middle Europe
Oddometer: 149
Wicked tooltube fixing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Finally got around to fitting the Tool Tube I bought a couple of months ago.



Cut out an aluminum bracket for the front, to attach to the original tool box holes.



And hung the back off the helmet lock mount on another aluminum bracket.


Very similar fixing tool tube
AND YOUR IS LOCKABLE?





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Old 08-10-2013, 11:54 AM   #79845
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,444
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Budget View Post
I did just this, and my bike runs excellent at ALL throttle positions. Im getting 58 - 62 MPG. Good idea to replace all O-rings and gaskets while your in there too.

It's not some complicated VooDoo if everything on your bike is totally stock. All you do is get the needle that it would have come with if it wasnt a USA edition, install it and tune the needle and the low speed adjustment screw and your golden. No need for anything else if you want a perfect running stocker that gets 60 MPG.
One just has to tune it for temperature and altitude...basically, density of oxygen...the same as one has to tune it if they open up the airbox or the airbox/exhaust. Once tuned, I don't really touch my carb, except to adjust for better manners with extreme changes in temp/altitude, or to check the OEM filter periodically. An aftermarket filter would probably be easier to access, but I don't have a big issue with the stocker, so I don't bother with aftermarket. My DR even sits for over a week sometimes, if I'm out of town. A little SeaFoam run into it before I store it and I don't have any problems with it.
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