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Old 08-21-2013, 08:18 PM   #80431
Foot dragger
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Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Yeah,when I first joined ADV,maybe 5 years ago? I was only looking for info on the KLR I was gonna get,a buddy had one,it seemed like the thing to do.

Then I stumbled onto the DR650 thread and was saved,I could tell right off a DR would suit me much better as a long time dirt rider.

I know those KLR's are more or less OK in a limited sort of way if you like that sort of thing. It wouldnt have suited me.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:21 PM   #80432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBird View Post
I bought a 2001 DR650 last night with 6400 miles on her. Completely stock.

Is there an index to this thread where I can find information on pipes, skid plates, jetting and such? 5000 pages is a lot to read!!!
check out Procycle........lots of happy customers and everything you could want for your DR
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:42 PM   #80433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
In case any one wondered how tough the chain guide that Kientech sells is......
It has about 25,000 miles on it. I ride 90% dirt, can you tell.







It kinda matches my skidplate over here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=790410
Out of curiousity, what chain size (520 or 525) and rear sprocket are you running? I notice you have it on the third hole down for the adjustment- mine came on the second hole.

I second your post though- mine looks beat up to the point im pretty sure I would have broke the stocker.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:08 PM   #80434
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I am running 525 chain and a 45 tooth sprocket from Kientech. I have a new set ready to go on now.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:21 PM   #80435
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Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
I am running 525 chain and a 45 tooth sprocket from Kientech. I have a new set ready to go on now.
Same. How many miles you get from the rear sprocket? My last 45 didn't last that long and I'm wondering if I should move to the bottom hole. I figured it was due to a chain issue I had in Alaska but I do notice the chain goes slightly up before it goes into the guide- I would think it should be completely straight.

I talked to Jesse about this and he said the second hole is fine with a 45 or even a 48 rear and that basically the bigger chain guide is only needed in 520 applications with 50+ rear sprockets or in rocky areas (why I bought it)
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:30 PM   #80436
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
I know those KLR's are more or less OK in a limited sort of way if you like that sort of thing.
I couldn't have said it better myself!
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:38 PM   #80437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Same. How many miles you get from the rear sprocket? My last 45 didn't last that long and I'm wondering if I should move to the bottom hole. I figured it was due to a chain issue I had in Alaska but I do notice the chain goes slightly up before it goes into the guide- I would think it should be completely straight.

I talked to Jesse about this and he said the second hole is fine with a 45 or even a 48 rear and that basically the bigger chain guide is only needed in 520 applications with 50+ rear sprockets or in rocky areas (why I bought it)
I had about 11,000 miles on this last one
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:33 AM   #80438
psmcd
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Hdb?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Below is a pic of my clutch cable routing. Biggest problem for me is the TUSK bark buster clamp, cable goes UP and over it. So if you've got bark busters mounted, then you may have to figure an elegant way to get round them. My cable then proceeds BEHIND/UNDER the speedo. (I believe this is the stock routing?)

I get a bit of a kink too (see pic) ... because I like to set my clutch lever LOW (for standing comfort) so bark buster clamp contacts the clutch cable, forcing it up a bit. So far, no problems because of this. Clutch operates smooth, light pull. Check out the pic:
I wonder if the HighwayDirtBikes brush guards completely eliminate clutch cable interference.
http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_...ardInstall.pdf

I also see the Procycle handguards have an offset mount. (page right, near bottom)
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html

I haven't tried any risers or handlebar changes yet as the stock bars and seated positioning suit me quite well. Longer arms and torso relative to leg length probably account for this. Basically I don't want my hands higher than my elbows when seated so I haven't raised the bars. Reason being wrist angle to lever positioning feels better, more natural.

So two questions: HDB brush guard users - clutch cable interference?
High bar users - seated wrist angle to lever positioning issues? (essentially I want my levers angled slightly down and if bar is too high it requires more flexion at the wrist to grip and extend fingers to levers)

psmcd screwed with this post 08-22-2013 at 05:12 AM
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:32 AM   #80439
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Have you checked out Barkbusters? No lever interference.
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:46 AM   #80440
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Race Tech sent some instructions along with my Emulators,I doubt I can find them now unfortunately. I do remember rebound can be controlled by oil weight and compression by adjusting the pre-load. But on a heavy bike that can transfer a lot of weight during braking it can only be so plush up front.
My Emulator'ed forks are good in rocks,dont wallow up and down.
The biggest thing Ive found is running the biggest ft tire I can find and running the air pressure as low as is safe for skipping through rocks.
It makes quite a difference. Ive been running an IRC VE-33 as its a tall tire and works on a lot of different conditions.
Its not DOT but I live dangerously and run it anyway,It lasted 3000 miles which is pretty good.
I run the IRC VE-33 on all my DS bikes. I did try a Shinko 244 this last time on the DR though. Back to the IRC when it wears out.
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:47 AM   #80441
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
I know those KLR's are more or less OK in a limited sort of way if you like that sort of thing. It wouldnt have suited me.
LOL< sounds like how I view the BMW GS.
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:29 AM   #80442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
I figure to do a lot of suspension tweaking and riding. My experience is dated to early 70s motocross so there's not much cross over from a 220lb, 7" travel Husky to the DR. Sounds like you've nailed a nice drop in solution with the DDCs. I'll continue dialing in the emulators, I'm only at 1.75 turns on the preload and stock 10w oil volume with the .47s so there's a few things to try along with the 7.5 on the Ohlins. I may even wither down to 170lbs to avoid going to .50s on the front. Hopefully about the time I get it really dialed in I'll meet someone with the DDCs and get a comparison. Should be about the time I've completed all the basic farkling and I can start phase 2 if warranted
I can relate to where you are comming from. I mx raced my 1971 CR 250 husky as well as used it and a 73 WR250 for trai riding. The WR hung around long enough to get back to back comparisons with an early 90s dr250 and 350 as did my 77 CR390. Even what we now consider poor "modern" suspension is so good compared with those days. I would love to have the weight of the old husky for my DR650, that would be the thing! Let's see; a replacement Ti frame, new wheel and spokes, lightened engine internals, what else? Next thing I'd know is that I'd be working on it all the Time, again!

The DDC set up would help your forks a good bit more than the uprated springs, if you wanted to try that, I would guarantee your result.
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:43 AM   #80443
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
I am running 525 chain and a 45 tooth sprocket from Kientech. I have a new set ready to go on now.
Steel sprocket or aluminum? Aluminum goes away pretty quick.
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:47 AM   #80444
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Footdragger, if you need a copy of the emulator instructions, I can send them to you. I think the big dia. Front tire would help on loose stuff like sand. I may try that. We have to travel to get into real sand from here. The dr stock (geometry) wise is quite hood on tight hard stuff. At least for the big bike it is.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:21 AM   #80445
psmcd
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thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
I can relate to where you are comming from. I mx raced my 1971 CR 250 husky as well as used it and a 73 WR250 for trai riding. The WR hung around long enough to get back to back comparisons with an early 90s dr250 and 350 as did my 77 CR390. Even what we now consider poor "modern" suspension is so good compared with those days. I would love to have the weight of the old husky for my DR650, that would be the thing! Let's see; a replacement Ti frame, new wheel and spokes, lightened engine internals, what else? Next thing I'd know is that I'd be working on it all the Time, again!

The DDC set up would help your forks a good bit more than the uprated springs, if you wanted to try that, I would guarantee your result.
I'll do a bit more tuning on the emulators first since I'd have to weld and re-drill my rods or get new ones. Plus I just have to get out riding more to know what I've got. That and ride some other DRs that have improved suspensions. I'm interested to hear the reports as more people install the DDCs. The no dis-assembly/drill alone should be a great advantage and speed acceptance of the DDCs.
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