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Old 08-26-2013, 05:35 PM   #80596
GSF1200S
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This might be a dumb idea, but would two smaller shorais fit in the battery tray?
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:40 PM   #80597
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SOUNDS very much like a vacume leak. especialy the notes about how it acts when hot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddieb View Post
Idling problem help wanted

My FCR39 fitted DR won't idle consistently.

When cold the bike idles well with the choke on though the revs are quite low, it and won't idle at all with the choke off.

When warm the bike doesn't idle well with the choke on and with the choke off it will have a fairly lumpy and erratic idle for up to 15 seconds before stalling, often it stalls instantly.

When the bike is hot it will either stall instantly or idle at very high revs before slowly dropping down and stalling.

I'm in NZ so I'm using 95RON real gas and the idle jet and float height are both is as per MXRob specs.

Can anyone advise what these symptoms may be caused by?

Once off idle the bike is smooth and strong all the way to redline. I've tried adjusting idle speed and the mixture screw to no avail.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:26 PM   #80598
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what gear were you in? it not easy but it is possible to push start the DR solo in 3rd gear. good idea to remove your riding gear before you try it because your going to get covered in sweat and it ruins your arm muscles


Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
On Push starting these bikes,we were out and about and a friends KLR lost the solenoid,so the starter wouldnt work. No kicker so we tried push starting it,with 3 guys doing the pushing and one guy jumping down on the seat,all this on pavement not dirt.
Even with a small downhill it wouldnt turn over fast enough to start,after about 5 tries with more bystanders helping, it started,barely.

So on dirt,even with 3 or 4 guys,push starting a 650 single could be a real trick.
Old bikes had kickers for a reason.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:42 PM   #80599
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Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Heck, that water wasn't even deep enough to even come up to the level of the vacuum line. I doubt it was that.
Yeah, but you just doubt it because I thought of it first.

Even if it isn't the cause in this instance, if the bike hasn't had the T mod, now would be a good time to do it. No point in waiting until you're up against a 'real' water crossing.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:49 PM   #80600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
what gear were you in? it not easy but it is possible to push start the DR solo in 3rd gear. good idea to remove your riding gear before you try it because your going to get covered in sweat and it ruins your arm muscles
Due to a bad battery I ended up getting an education in solo push starting my '02 DR the second or third day I owned it. By trial and error I found 2nd gear was the best on flat pavement (1st just made long skid marks - my 7 year old self would have been proud!). Ran along side pushing then jumped on (tricky) and popped the clutch. Pro tip: before trying this at home make SURE BOTH the key AND kill switch are in the ON position AT THE SAME TIME - DAMHIK Hey, 1. the bike was new to me, 2. pushing a DR back and forth for 15 minutes trying to start it counts as cardio, right?!
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:01 PM   #80601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
what gear were you in? it not easy but it is possible to push start the DR solo in 3rd gear. good idea to remove your riding gear before you try it because your going to get covered in sweat and it ruins your arm muscles
We tried it in 1st through 3rd,the tire didnt turn over much if any. I would much like to see a video of someone solo push starting a DR650 so I would know how to do it next time.
Especially on dirt. There's no manual compression release,seems tricky.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:02 PM   #80602
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simestd View Post
Due to a bad battery I ended up getting an education in solo push starting my '02 DR the second or third day I owned it. By trial and error I found 2nd gear was the best on flat pavement (1st just made long skid marks - my 7 year old self would have been proud!). Ran along side pushing then jumped on (tricky) and popped the clutch. Pro tip: before trying this at home make SURE BOTH the key AND kill switch are in the ON position AT THE SAME TIME - DAMHIK Hey, 1. the bike was new to me, 2. pushing a DR back and forth for 15 minutes trying to start it counts as cardio, right?!
It will start when the battery is dead or down?

Maybe the KLR we were pushing had other issues.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:26 PM   #80603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
It will start when the battery is dead or down?
The DR has a separate magneto/ignition charge coil so it can be push started when the battery is flat - but per Procycle the battery needs to be in the circuit to enable the CDI. In other words you apparently can't push start it without a battery installed. Didn't have a reason to try that, but I know it can be started with a battery that's too dead to activate the solenoid.

When I was push starting mine, I didn't know this - so I was trying to conserve precious battery capacity by flipping the ignition after hopping on and just before popping the clutch (and half the time I was forgetting....) I'm sure it was really quite the spectacle - funny now though.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:38 PM   #80604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simestd View Post
The DR has a separate magneto/ignition charge coil so it can be push started when the battery is flat - but per Procycle the battery needs to be in the circuit to enable the CDI.
Yes, there's an anti-hotwire circuit in the key switch that requires some voltage be sent to the CDI when the key is on. Even though the DR does not require any battery power to energize the ignition system it won't run without a battery and also won't run if the battery is completely flat. There has to be a small amount of battery voltage at the orange wire to the CDI to turn the CDI on.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:45 PM   #80605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simestd View Post
Due to a bad battery I ended up getting an education in solo push starting my '02 DR the second or third day I owned it. By trial and error I found 2nd gear was the best on flat pavement (1st just made long skid marks - my 7 year old self would have been proud!). Ran along side pushing then jumped on (tricky) and popped the clutch. Pro tip: before trying this at home make SURE BOTH the key AND kill switch are in the ON position AT THE SAME TIME - DAMHIK Hey, 1. the bike was new to me, 2. pushing a DR back and forth for 15 minutes trying to start it counts as cardio, right?!
haha ive done the key in the off position trick a few times. just got to try not to let your riding buddies that are pushing your fat arse up and down the street know thats why it wont turn over. the beauty of using 3rd gear is i didnt have to jump on the bike which is a good thing because i dont think im coordinated enough to anyway.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
We tried it in 1st through 3rd,the tire didnt turn over much if any. I would much like to see a video of someone solo push starting a DR650 so I would know how to do it next time.
Especially on dirt. There's no manual compression release,seems tricky.
i dont think youd get it to go on the dirt (i wouldnt like to try, even with others pushing), but pavement is possible. for the compression release, do you think putting it into 5th and trying a push start would work? might not kick the engine over but is there more chance that the engine would rotate doing it in 5th and get the stroke to a better position to try again in 2nd or 3rd? just a though after learning that adjusting the valves is easier in 5th gear when you want to turn the engine over by hand using the rear wheel. i dont really understand how that all works, but i know theres smarter people on here than me


Quote:
Originally Posted by simestd View Post
The DR has a separate magneto/ignition charge coil so it can be push started when the battery is flat - but per Procycle the battery needs to be in the circuit to enable the CDI. In other words you apparently can't push start it without a battery installed. Didn't have a reason to try that, but I know it can be started with a battery that's too dead to activate the solenoid.

When I was push starting mine, I didn't know this - so I was trying to conserve precious battery capacity by flipping the ignition after hopping on and just before popping the clutch (and half the time I was forgetting....) I'm sure it was really quite the spectacle - funny now though.
sometimes even the battery being in the circuit isnt enough depending on your definition of 'dead'. i had an electrical problem with a fuse board that was slowly draining the bikes battery overnight so woke up 3 mornings in a row with a flat battery. the first two times push starting wasnt a problem but the third it would go no matter what we tried. turned out the battery was done and dusted so off to the local shop in indonesia for a brand new and genuine Yuasa for $45
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:47 PM   #80606
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I wonder where the variable is ?
My new to Me93 xr650l was a breeze to actually just roll start as I sat on it
pushing with my tip toes and a flat battery( left the key on overnight) so flat no lights or anything came on

the bike fired right up on the asphalt in 1st ( i didn't even think of using another gear )

then stupid Me rides it down a sand wash and wipes out I thought I was pushing it all the way back or walking for the truck when I found a tiny patch of hard dirt and got it fired up again
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:30 PM   #80607
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:09 PM   #80608
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddieb View Post
Idling problem help wanted

My FCR39 fitted DR won't idle consistently.

When cold the bike idles well with the choke on though the revs are quite low, and it won't idle at all with the choke off.

When warm the bike doesn't idle well with the choke on and with the choke off it will have a fairly lumpy and erratic idle for up to 15 seconds before stalling, often it stalls instantly.

When the bike is hot it will either stall instantly or idle at very high revs before slowly dropping down and stalling.

I'm in NZ so I'm using 95RON real gas and the idle jet and float height are both as per MXRob specs.

Can anyone advise what these symptoms may be caused by?

Once off idle the bike is smooth and strong all the way to redline. I've tried adjusting idle speed and the mixture screw to no avail.
I've had these same symptoms on TWO bikes with FCR 39 carb.
Pilot Jet. I cleaned the Pilot jet ... did not help. I replaced it, all OK again.

I would first drain float bowl and flush some fuel through the carb. Has the bike been sitting a long time? If none of that works I'd suggest going through carb bit by bit, clean it up. Also, consider flushing your fuel tank, make sure no crud is floating around in there. Check all fuel filters, including petcock filters.

No luck? Contact Nordie Boy.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:11 PM   #80609
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Carry 20' of rope or some 550-or-heavier paracord. Somebody else will come along shortly, in most places. .
Other good, easily available stuff is the strapping communication systems installers use to pull cables through pipe. Strong, light, packs small and they'll usually just give it to you.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:11 PM   #80610
simestd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEmann View Post
I wonder where the variable is ?
My new to Me93 xr650l was a breeze to actually just roll start as I sat on it
pushing with my tip toes and a flat battery( left the key on overnight) so flat no lights or anything came on

the bike fired right up on the asphalt in 1st ( i didn't even think of using another gear )
I'd guess it has a lot to do with how well tuned the bike is. When I was pushing mine, I know it was jetted WAY too rich by the PO. Now I'd wager it would fire off more easily. Our little Cessna 150 is like your XR, given two shots of prime when cold that engine will start and run the first time the impulse coupling fires - it's a joy to hand prop when needed. Of course the corollary is I'm VERY wary of that prop and check the mag grounding EVERY time I shut it down...
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