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Old 08-26-2013, 05:42 PM   #80596
Emmbeedee
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Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Heck, that water wasn't even deep enough to even come up to the level of the vacuum line. I doubt it was that.
Yeah, but you just doubt it because I thought of it first.

Even if it isn't the cause in this instance, if the bike hasn't had the T mod, now would be a good time to do it. No point in waiting until you're up against a 'real' water crossing.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:49 PM   #80597
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Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
what gear were you in? it not easy but it is possible to push start the DR solo in 3rd gear. good idea to remove your riding gear before you try it because your going to get covered in sweat and it ruins your arm muscles
Due to a bad battery I ended up getting an education in solo push starting my '02 DR the second or third day I owned it. By trial and error I found 2nd gear was the best on flat pavement (1st just made long skid marks - my 7 year old self would have been proud!). Ran along side pushing then jumped on (tricky) and popped the clutch. Pro tip: before trying this at home make SURE BOTH the key AND kill switch are in the ON position AT THE SAME TIME - DAMHIK Hey, 1. the bike was new to me, 2. pushing a DR back and forth for 15 minutes trying to start it counts as cardio, right?!
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:01 PM   #80598
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
what gear were you in? it not easy but it is possible to push start the DR solo in 3rd gear. good idea to remove your riding gear before you try it because your going to get covered in sweat and it ruins your arm muscles
We tried it in 1st through 3rd,the tire didnt turn over much if any. I would much like to see a video of someone solo push starting a DR650 so I would know how to do it next time.
Especially on dirt. There's no manual compression release,seems tricky.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:02 PM   #80599
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Originally Posted by simestd View Post
Due to a bad battery I ended up getting an education in solo push starting my '02 DR the second or third day I owned it. By trial and error I found 2nd gear was the best on flat pavement (1st just made long skid marks - my 7 year old self would have been proud!). Ran along side pushing then jumped on (tricky) and popped the clutch. Pro tip: before trying this at home make SURE BOTH the key AND kill switch are in the ON position AT THE SAME TIME - DAMHIK Hey, 1. the bike was new to me, 2. pushing a DR back and forth for 15 minutes trying to start it counts as cardio, right?!
It will start when the battery is dead or down?

Maybe the KLR we were pushing had other issues.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:26 PM   #80600
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
It will start when the battery is dead or down?
The DR has a separate magneto/ignition charge coil so it can be push started when the battery is flat - but per Procycle the battery needs to be in the circuit to enable the CDI. In other words you apparently can't push start it without a battery installed. Didn't have a reason to try that, but I know it can be started with a battery that's too dead to activate the solenoid.

When I was push starting mine, I didn't know this - so I was trying to conserve precious battery capacity by flipping the ignition after hopping on and just before popping the clutch (and half the time I was forgetting....) I'm sure it was really quite the spectacle - funny now though.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:38 PM   #80601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simestd View Post
The DR has a separate magneto/ignition charge coil so it can be push started when the battery is flat - but per Procycle the battery needs to be in the circuit to enable the CDI.
Yes, there's an anti-hotwire circuit in the key switch that requires some voltage be sent to the CDI when the key is on. Even though the DR does not require any battery power to energize the ignition system it won't run without a battery and also won't run if the battery is completely flat. There has to be a small amount of battery voltage at the orange wire to the CDI to turn the CDI on.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:45 PM   #80602
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simestd View Post
Due to a bad battery I ended up getting an education in solo push starting my '02 DR the second or third day I owned it. By trial and error I found 2nd gear was the best on flat pavement (1st just made long skid marks - my 7 year old self would have been proud!). Ran along side pushing then jumped on (tricky) and popped the clutch. Pro tip: before trying this at home make SURE BOTH the key AND kill switch are in the ON position AT THE SAME TIME - DAMHIK Hey, 1. the bike was new to me, 2. pushing a DR back and forth for 15 minutes trying to start it counts as cardio, right?!
haha ive done the key in the off position trick a few times. just got to try not to let your riding buddies that are pushing your fat arse up and down the street know thats why it wont turn over. the beauty of using 3rd gear is i didnt have to jump on the bike which is a good thing because i dont think im coordinated enough to anyway.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
We tried it in 1st through 3rd,the tire didnt turn over much if any. I would much like to see a video of someone solo push starting a DR650 so I would know how to do it next time.
Especially on dirt. There's no manual compression release,seems tricky.
i dont think youd get it to go on the dirt (i wouldnt like to try, even with others pushing), but pavement is possible. for the compression release, do you think putting it into 5th and trying a push start would work? might not kick the engine over but is there more chance that the engine would rotate doing it in 5th and get the stroke to a better position to try again in 2nd or 3rd? just a though after learning that adjusting the valves is easier in 5th gear when you want to turn the engine over by hand using the rear wheel. i dont really understand how that all works, but i know theres smarter people on here than me


Quote:
Originally Posted by simestd View Post
The DR has a separate magneto/ignition charge coil so it can be push started when the battery is flat - but per Procycle the battery needs to be in the circuit to enable the CDI. In other words you apparently can't push start it without a battery installed. Didn't have a reason to try that, but I know it can be started with a battery that's too dead to activate the solenoid.

When I was push starting mine, I didn't know this - so I was trying to conserve precious battery capacity by flipping the ignition after hopping on and just before popping the clutch (and half the time I was forgetting....) I'm sure it was really quite the spectacle - funny now though.
sometimes even the battery being in the circuit isnt enough depending on your definition of 'dead'. i had an electrical problem with a fuse board that was slowly draining the bikes battery overnight so woke up 3 mornings in a row with a flat battery. the first two times push starting wasnt a problem but the third it would go no matter what we tried. turned out the battery was done and dusted so off to the local shop in indonesia for a brand new and genuine Yuasa for $45
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:47 PM   #80603
ZEmann
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I wonder where the variable is ?
My new to Me93 xr650l was a breeze to actually just roll start as I sat on it
pushing with my tip toes and a flat battery( left the key on overnight) so flat no lights or anything came on

the bike fired right up on the asphalt in 1st ( i didn't even think of using another gear )

then stupid Me rides it down a sand wash and wipes out I thought I was pushing it all the way back or walking for the truck when I found a tiny patch of hard dirt and got it fired up again
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:30 PM   #80604
Graniteone
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Do you know what makes me happy?











Fresh meat spooned on with lots of cursing and a bruise or two.

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Old 08-26-2013, 08:09 PM   #80605
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Eddieb View Post
Idling problem help wanted

My FCR39 fitted DR won't idle consistently.

When cold the bike idles well with the choke on though the revs are quite low, and it won't idle at all with the choke off.

When warm the bike doesn't idle well with the choke on and with the choke off it will have a fairly lumpy and erratic idle for up to 15 seconds before stalling, often it stalls instantly.

When the bike is hot it will either stall instantly or idle at very high revs before slowly dropping down and stalling.

I'm in NZ so I'm using 95RON real gas and the idle jet and float height are both as per MXRob specs.

Can anyone advise what these symptoms may be caused by?

Once off idle the bike is smooth and strong all the way to redline. I've tried adjusting idle speed and the mixture screw to no avail.
I've had these same symptoms on TWO bikes with FCR 39 carb.
Pilot Jet. I cleaned the Pilot jet ... did not help. I replaced it, all OK again.

I would first drain float bowl and flush some fuel through the carb. Has the bike been sitting a long time? If none of that works I'd suggest going through carb bit by bit, clean it up. Also, consider flushing your fuel tank, make sure no crud is floating around in there. Check all fuel filters, including petcock filters.

No luck? Contact Nordie Boy.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:11 PM   #80606
vicster
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Carry 20' of rope or some 550-or-heavier paracord. Somebody else will come along shortly, in most places. .
Other good, easily available stuff is the strapping communication systems installers use to pull cables through pipe. Strong, light, packs small and they'll usually just give it to you.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:11 PM   #80607
simestd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEmann View Post
I wonder where the variable is ?
My new to Me93 xr650l was a breeze to actually just roll start as I sat on it
pushing with my tip toes and a flat battery( left the key on overnight) so flat no lights or anything came on

the bike fired right up on the asphalt in 1st ( i didn't even think of using another gear )
I'd guess it has a lot to do with how well tuned the bike is. When I was pushing mine, I know it was jetted WAY too rich by the PO. Now I'd wager it would fire off more easily. Our little Cessna 150 is like your XR, given two shots of prime when cold that engine will start and run the first time the impulse coupling fires - it's a joy to hand prop when needed. Of course the corollary is I'm VERY wary of that prop and check the mag grounding EVERY time I shut it down...
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:12 PM   #80608
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DR High in the Sky

Spent some time riding well up above 12,000 feet, fully loaded, with the stock carb a few days ago. The bike behaved well, ran well. I use the 14/42 gearing and slip the clutch when it's steep and rough.

Denver Pass, 11,900'.





A few weeks ago you guys were all talking about what springs you should use. I noticed that often people don't mention what kind of load they carry when they ride and it makes it hard to compare suspensions. My springs would seem overly stiff for my weight. I'm the 150 pound rider that the stock suspension was supposedly designed for- but I put 0.50 Eibach springs in front with Intiminators, and the stock shock (revalved) with an 8.1 spring in the rear.

It works for my style of riding (thoughtful, I'm totally opposed to going to the hospital). But consider the weight the bike is actually carrying. I pack like a backpacker so add 30 pounds of camping/personal gear, 15 pounds for empty luggage and racks, 5 pounds of tools, 2 pounds of inner tubes and pump, 10 pounds of riding gear, 2 pounds of nuts, bolts, spark plugs, patch kit, glue, tape, wire, etc., 3 pounds of food, 2 pounds of water, and at least a few more pounds of windshield, bash plate, case guards, etc. That turns me into a 220 pound load that the bike has to carry. (Edit: Oh and don't forget the extra 3 gallons of gas that the IMS tank is holding: 15 pounds more).

Thanks to Jesse Keinz for helping me set things up for this load. My bike sucks up the bumps and rocks pretty well and I am rarely deflected off course by anything.

Hurricane Pass, 12,850'; Riding fully loaded with camping gear.




Poughkeepsie Pass, 12,740'.




Ophir Pass, 11,789'.





Kennebec Pass, 11,740; Don't misjudge your stopping place here. It's hundreds of feet down just off to the right of that orange patch on the summit.





Lone Cone Pass, 11.029'; Running for cover, the hail is just starting to pound down.




Good riding!.........................shu

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Old 08-26-2013, 08:25 PM   #80609
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Technique is important. 2nd or 3rd gear. Get it rolling to about jogging speed. "Bump" the clutch out then pull it back in immediately. Your objective is to get at least one compression stroke. Usually they will start. If you just drop the clutch it will likely slide the tire on the second compression stroke because it will be spinning fast enough that the the centrifugally operated automatic decompression won't release but not fast enough to actually pull away. Works for me.
You're right ... it's all technique. I learned how to do this as a kid. I learned to bump start 600cc Brit singles (BSA, Matchless) at 14. Sink or swim.

Thump, you left out one important part of the bump technique. The left out part is after sprinting along side the bike, you have to JUMP UP and land side saddle on the seat. At the moment of landing ... pop the clutch (I prefer 2nd gear). As soon as it fires ... pull in the clutch and rev it to keep it going. Timing and technique are critical on this. Doing it in sand or soft dirt ... is a bitch. Get help ... or use the "foot peg" technique. (another story)

Always make certain:
Ignition is ON (headlight OFF or unplugged)
Kills switch not engaged.
Fuel is ON
You have gas in tank? If unsure, switch to reserve NOW.

If you have help, sit on bike, let friends push! start off in Neutral, once at speed pop into gear and jump UP on the bike ... land hard on the seat as you pop clutch. If bike is stubborn, have your friends continue pushing with bike turning over. Hopefully it will start before someone drops dead.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:52 PM   #80610
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
This might be a dumb idea, but would two smaller shorais fit in the battery tray?
As much as I'm tempted by the Shorai batts ... i've heard just enough stories of problems and failures to be concerned. Remember, the DR is a Japanese bike. Having owned over 50 of them since the mid 60's, I can confirm one thing: The electrics are usually pretty sound. (unlike my previous BMW's, Bultacos, Triumph's and BSA's)

The DR650 happens to be very sound overall electrically. Problems are usually OWNER INDUCED: adding accessories, incorrect routing or funky hook ups. But the Batt is small and has very limited extra capacity. So owners must ALWAYS be aware of battery when hard starting occurs.

I love the smaller size and light weight of the Shorai ... but, IMHO, they have some refinement to do before I'd buy one.

A fresh, good quality, properly charged, conventional MF sealed lead-acid battery is easily good for two years. Longer if not abused and left on Battery Tender as much as possible. The DR charging system has proven reliable ... so even if your batt gets discharged or low ... usually the DR system will bring a low batt back to 100% in about 20 minutes of riding. (in my experience)

I've run my battery dead several times. Running my Gerbing jacket and heated grips on high ... with stock headlight on. After 4 hours riding, bike would not start ... but will never stall, even when batt is dead. (I bump started it solo, fully loaded on level ground). In 20 minutes it re started on the button. (all accessories OFF)

Point is, if you trust the Shorai, go with it. They are not cheap, so carrying a spare seems perhaps overkill?

To solve my discharged batteries I went to an 35W HID headlight. Also, I try to run with headlight OFF in daytime. Also, riding in town/traffic, I switch OFF all accessories.

On highway at night, in the cold, I'm able to run my Gerbing (77 watts at 100%) and grips on low, for hours at a time, no dead battery. So I guess that 20 watt savings with the HID helps. But the DR is no powerhouse, just 200 W output. So judicious management always called for.
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