ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-07-2013, 06:21 PM   #83461
Kommando
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kommando's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 7,389
Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Yep, What's the big deal? I just use a screw driver with the stand in the up position. One little flick and it's on.
Wear eye protection when messing with springy things.

I use a drum-brake spring tool.
Kommando is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 07:49 PM   #83462
TUCKERS
the famous james
 
TUCKERS's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 12,072
Chill, you can spend a ton of money with minimal gains. Do what he said and just re-gear for more grunt..14/42 will give you that.
I'm using 16/42 this week and it's pretty darn long..........I find myself in 2nd a lot even in our fast mountains. They like to rev so don't be afraid of twisting your wrist for more grunt in lower gears.
A few posts ago we were talking about money is better spent on suspension first, because you can out ride the OEM suspension before you run out of steam.
__________________
James and Colleen Tucker.
Aut viam inveniam aut faciam
DMV work/insurance/registration/titles/address use/room rental/motorbike&vehicle buying/travelers help/problems solved
TUCKERS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 07:50 PM   #83463
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,967
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
"Deliverance II"

Yes it's starting to squeal like a pig.

Is there any concern for this malady other than attracting horny boars?

I'm ok with the sound if nothing's going to grenade.

What say ye DR Drs?
It's squealing like a pig because the bushing is dry and you already knew that. Mine squealed from 10k to 15k, worse when cold. I felt guilty every time I heard it. Lil' Steve already mentioned your options, how guilty do you want to feel? If you're patient, you might be able to get the starter end cap off without removing the CCT, which would be my preference, given the choice. Warp 9 didn't have the end cap available then, so I greased the stock end cap bushing. I regreased it again 30k miles later when I had to replace the CCT gasket. It never made a sound for those 30k.

I used a pic showing how to retract and release the CCT plunger, for those wondering.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Hi awesome people, sorry not been around much recently, new job been keeping me busy and not much time but nice to see you're all still here helping people. :-)

I have a quick question... I'm after a little more power and intend to do things in 2 stages but I'm curious if my intended theory will work.

Currently I have a standard motor, K+N filter in standard airbox (I really want to keep the airbox stock) FMF header pipe and standard muffler, carb is Oz spec and standard. It seems to run well, no flat spots or surging, but it would be nice to have a bit more grunt.

So my plan is to add an FMF Q4 pipe, I'm not expecting much if any gains from this but I'm curious if it will still run ok? I know I should re-jet at this point to get the most out of it but will it run like a dog if I don't, or will it just not be performing at it's best? I'm not going to re-jet the standard carb because the plan for the next stage is...

To add a pumper carb ordered set up to run with full FMF pipe, K+N in standard airbox. Will it all come together at the second stage? Is it all a waste of time unless I open up the airbox?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks.
You don't have to be around recently, someone is always glad to answer questions, Kommando in this case. If you ride with others (dust), throw that K&N away and replace it with a foam filter. There are numerous threads online explaining why (K&N flows more air because it flows a larger micron dust particle, bad juju).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Wear eye protection when messing with springy things.

I use a drum-brake spring tool.
Safety glasses are an excellent idea. I have a scar on my left eye, just outside the iris because I didn't take the time to put on a pair when soldering a cable end.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-07-2013 at 07:58 PM
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 08:06 PM   #83464
BergDonk
Beastly Adventurer
 
BergDonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,826
All this extra grunt and resulting chain pull you guys want will just bring on the frame failure sooner, like mine




Bit more here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...646076&page=34

with repairs planned to commence next week.
__________________
shed time IS quality time
BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z
BergDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 08:08 PM   #83465
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,967
Looking forward to your solution.

ETA:
Since all welds shrink, that crack will pull closed when adding a forward (front ward?) gusset.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 08:11 PM   #83466
TUCKERS
the famous james
 
TUCKERS's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 12,072
Nice sprocket cover BergDonk.

Is that other do-dad that protects the engine case plastic?

How many times you straighten that gear shifter well done.
__________________
James and Colleen Tucker.
Aut viam inveniam aut faciam
DMV work/insurance/registration/titles/address use/room rental/motorbike&vehicle buying/travelers help/problems solved
TUCKERS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 08:16 PM   #83467
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,967
So TUCKERS, ya got butterflies yet?
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 08:38 PM   #83468
SingleTrackJeff
Lurker and Hangaround
 
SingleTrackJeff's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Oddometer: 712
Valve adjustment

I am going to do a valve clearance check on my 2006 DR 650
But I can't find the clearance any place.
Would some please pass them on to me.
SingleTrackJeff is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 08:45 PM   #83469
BergDonk
Beastly Adventurer
 
BergDonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,826
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Looking forward to your solution.

ETA:
Since all welds shrink, that crack will pull closed when adding a forward (front ward?) gusset.
Yep, and why I'll commence the welding of the cracks from the front. This was my brother's suggestion too, the body maker, boilermaker, welder in the family. But don't let that stop you offering advice and suggestions

Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Nice sprocket cover BergDonk.

Is that other do-dad that protects the engine case plastic?

How many times you straighten that gear shifter well done.
The sprocket cover and chain catcher/case saver are all aluminium. The case saver bit is 10 mm thick.

Gear lever is a bit of a hybrid, made up to go forward then out so mostly only the tip is used by my #13 Tech 8s. Its never been straightened, because its protected by the bash plate, as is the brake lever on the other side.
__________________
shed time IS quality time
BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z
BergDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 08:47 PM   #83470
BergDonk
Beastly Adventurer
 
BergDonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,826
Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
I am going to do a valve clearance check on my 2006 DR 650
But I can't find the clearance any place.
Would some please pass them on to me.
Inlet 0.08 - 0.13 mm
Exhaust 0.17 - 0.22 mm

Here is how I do it FWIW:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=371
__________________
shed time IS quality time
BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z
BergDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 08:53 PM   #83471
stretch160
Studly Adventurer
 
stretch160's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: up-state SC
Oddometer: 627
Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
I am going to do a valve clearance check on my 2006 DR 650
But I can't find the clearance any place.
Would some please pass them on to me.
.004" inlet
.008" exhaust
+/- .001" on both
stretch160 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 09:14 PM   #83472
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,967
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Yep, and why I'll commence the welding of the cracks from the front. This was my brother's suggestion too, the body maker, boilermaker, welder in the family. But don't let that stop you offering advice and suggestions
Yep, saw on your thread that your brother knows his stuff.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 09:41 PM   #83473
Chill
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Chill's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Chill, you can spend a ton of money with minimal gains. Do what he said and just re-gear for more grunt..14/42 will give you that.
I'm using 16/42 this week and it's pretty darn long..........I find myself in 2nd a lot even in our fast mountains. They like to rev so don't be afraid of twisting your wrist for more grunt in lower gears.
A few posts ago we were talking about money is better spent on suspension first, because you can out ride the OEM suspension before you run out of steam.
Thanks TUCKERS, I'm already running 14/41 with 14/42 going on next week because my chain is fubard and the suspension is sorted already.
Chill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 09:42 PM   #83474
Chill
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Chill's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
If you don't want to cut the airbox, you can always take off the airbox lid. Don't lose the nuts. They aren't fully captured.

You could also try a pod filter, but some people report that it isn't as good as an opened airbox.

Basically, the airbox and the lean needle/idle settings are where you can gain most improvement. In Oz, you probably have the adjustable needle and your idle-mix screw is accessible without having to remove a brass cover. I'd still suggest an extended screw though, to make adjustments easier.

Try just popping out the snorkel, then moving the clip down a position on the needle. Then adjust the idle. You may or may not want to bump up the size of the main. The main may be the only part of the carb that isn't set lean from the factory, but I use a bigger main with an opened airbox.

Main jet experts...Does Mikuni offer a 142.5 main between the stock 140 and the 145 that some kits provide?

You may notice better grunt with just a sprocket change to 14/42 from stock 15/41 or 15/42, and it'll still run 75MPH fine.

There's also always a big-bore, a cam, a ported/polished big-valve head, nitrous, and forced induction on an EFI setup.
Thanks Kommando, I'm running 14/41 at the moment and 14/42 as of next week as every other link in the chain is half siezed and the 14T is hooked. I really don't want to get into the carb, I mean *really* don't want to. Hence the plan to change the pipe and then swap the carb out and then I have a known-good setup that works that I can revert to if needed. I think I've found a few answers here... http://procycle.us/info/questions/dr...l#tm40_quest-3
The airbox doesn't have to be modified to run the TM40. My own DR650 has an unmodified airbox with just the snorkel removed.
So that should be ok.

Only question now is will it still run ok with the stock carb and full FMF pipe in the meantime? I know I won't get much in the way of gains without rejetting. I just worry that the new lack of back pressure will mean that it spontaniously combusts after half an hour.
Chill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 09:55 PM   #83475
TUCKERS
the famous james
 
TUCKERS's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 12,072
I'm running bone stock carb and airbox (K&N filter), with Kientech header, Pro-Cycle mid pipe and 2003 GSXR 750 can, it runs so good I can't believe it! Low grade USA 87 pump petrol too.
__________________
James and Colleen Tucker.
Aut viam inveniam aut faciam
DMV work/insurance/registration/titles/address use/room rental/motorbike&vehicle buying/travelers help/problems solved
TUCKERS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015