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Old 01-21-2007, 12:27 PM   #16
PowerCell
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I do recomend keeping a record of your shim thicknesses. In future valve adjustments, it will allow you to simply measure your clearances and go buy your new shims prior to pulling your cams. Then when you do remove the cams, it's simply a matter of swapping the buttons and putting everything back together again.
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:18 PM   #17
jsrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah
I will try to locate the cyl head nut tool, but unlikely with my timeframe. Anyone want to send me theirs for future beer IOUs?
1/2" torque adapter from Stanley/Proto does the trick.

Instructions on how to calculate torque when using an adapter.
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:05 AM   #18
cpmodem
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Motion Pro also has the adapter. Use it at 90 deg to the wrench, and you won't have to calculate.
-cp

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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 01-22-2007, 10:01 AM   #19
emelgee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmodem
Motion Pro also has the adapter. Use it at 90 deg to the wrench, and you won't have to calculate.
-cp

Looks like a handy tool - what size head do you need for the bolts??
I'll be doing my valves next month, so it makes sense to check the head bolts at the same time - the dealer was supposed to have done the head bolt TB a while back.
What's the story with the other tool you need for the internal nuts? Is there a work around without ordering the KTM tool??
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:16 AM   #20
jsrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emelgee
Looks like a handy tool - what size head do you need for the bolts??
I'll be doing my valves next month, so it makes sense to check the head bolts at the same time - the dealer was supposed to have done the head bolt TB a while back.
What's the story with the other tool you need for the internal nuts? Is there a work around without ordering the KTM tool??
13mm or 1/2". The torque adapter cpmodem and I are referring to is the workaround for the KTM tool. You only need it for one nut on each head. It sits under an overhanging cylinder head deck, so you can't get a socket on it.
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:20 AM   #21
cpmodem
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emelgee
Looks like a handy tool - what size head do you need for the bolts??
I'll be doing my valves next month, so it makes sense to check the head bolts at the same time - the dealer was supposed to have done the head bolt TB a while back.
What's the story with the other tool you need for the internal nuts? Is there a work around without ordering the KTM tool??
IIRK, it was a 14mm nut. Either way, its one of the two sizes that come on the adapter. This was the only tool, besides a standard torque wrench and socket, that I needed to torque all of the nuts.
-cp
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 01-22-2007, 11:25 AM   #22
emelgee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmodem
IIRK, it was a 14mm nut. Either way, its one of the two sizes that come on the adapter. This was the only tool, besides a standard torque wrench and socket, that I needed to torque all of the nuts.
-cp
Thanks for the info. After checking the engine parts catalogue it looks like the tool for the inner nuts is just a slimmed down 13mm socket - so I guess a standard 1/4", or maybe a 3/8" socket will fit in there. The external nut is listed as an M8, which should be a 13mm head as well (following normal metric sizing conventions).
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Old 02-11-2007, 02:48 PM   #23
Motomedic
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Valve shim crossover

Well, in addition to my earlier post regarding lapping shims, I thought y'all would like to know that the shims used in a Harley-Davidson V-Rod are the same 10mm dia. shims used in our KTMs, as well as the Aprilia RSV v-twins.

So, once again, lapping shims is not recommended by ANY mfg., especially when swapping them out is the easier method.
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Old 02-11-2007, 03:10 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomedic
Well, in addition to my earlier post regarding lapping shims, I thought y'all would like to know that the shims used in a Harley-Davidson V-Rod are the same 10mm dia. shims used in our KTMs, as well as the Aprilia RSV v-twins.

So, once again, lapping shims is not recommended by ANY mfg., especially when swapping them out is the easier method.
Thanks for the info!

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Old 02-11-2007, 05:27 PM   #25
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I don't have the threaded tool to lock the crankshaft at the valve timing marks. I just used a socket on a breaker bar and zip-tied that to the frame to hold it in place. Seems to work just fine.
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Old 04-18-2007, 03:28 AM   #26
buckscreek
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Valve shim crossover

Hi All,

just about to get my 03 950 off to the local mechanic for a number of jobs:
- valve job
- carb adjustments
- removal of some (apparently) unecessary pollution hardware
- oil change

Much of which I am capable of doing myself, but with three cars, 3 bikes, 3 kids and two jobs in the family I don't have a lot of time.

The bike has only 12,000kms, most of them are mine from the past 12 months, since I bought it with 2,000km on the clock (seriously! the previous owner rode it a few times and parked it, and crept into a corner, shaking with fear..... whereupon I bought it at a more than reasonable price).

My local mechanic is a ducati specialist and a very fine mechanic, have known him 20+ years and trust him implicitly. I have no faith in local KTM branded mechanics or dealers. Said mechanic wants to know which other bikes (brands/models) the shims interchange with? Any clues apart from those already posted?

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-18-2007, 06:13 AM   #27
sailah OP
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Aprilia apparantly, and also Harley V Rod. Basically it. The individual shims are $5 at the KTM dealer so unless there isn't a dealer who can get them, why woud you use anything else?
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Old 04-18-2007, 08:49 AM   #28
jsrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah
Aprilia apparantly, and also Harley V Rod. Basically it. The individual shims are $5 at the KTM dealer so unless there isn't a dealer who can get them, why woud you use anything else?
ktmtalk.com has them for about $3.50.
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Old 04-18-2007, 05:06 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenMoto
Not to hijack the thread, but I bought the KTM "tool" (threaded rod) for this and was afraid to lose it in the engine! I double checked and it was at TDC but the bolt wanted to just keep going into the case; I stopped when it was flush with the surface. ...has anyone else had this problem?

I only bring it up, because I know how much it sucks to have everything apart and become confused as to what you are doing wrong!

With the three that I've done, at TDC, the locking tool would engage in the indent and lock the engine, at which point the threaded tool would protrude about 1/3". I would have to conclude that if yours was going flush with the engine that you were not at TDC, or possibly you were on the other stroke...
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Old 04-18-2007, 07:19 PM   #30
jsrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tn-steve
With the three that I've done, at TDC, the locking tool would engage in the indent and lock the engine, at which point the threaded tool would protrude about 1/3". I would have to conclude that if yours was going flush with the engine that you were not at TDC, or possibly you were on the other stroke...
On mine, the tool protrudes with rear cylinder at TDC, is flush with front cylinder at TDC, and disappears otherwise.
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