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Old 09-13-2008, 11:05 AM   #121
cpmodem
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: masa yee yah tee 59° 14' 9" N / 135° 26' 42" W
Oddometer: 7,103
Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
Believe (but please double check) that CRF450 shims can be used.
Doh! My bad. It says right in the Troy Honda add that these shims fit the TRX and CRF 450's.

Also: KFX400, KLX400, DRZ400, LTZ400, RMZ450, WR/YZ400/426/450, YFZ450
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 04-18-2009, 10:45 AM   #122
positionsize
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Location: Arizona, Florida and Philippines
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Clicking sound

Greetings Everyone,

I am checking the Valves on my new to me 2006 950A and have a few questions.

When rotating the engine to TDC anti-clockwise via the Allen Head inside generator cover I hear a light clicking noise every full rotation of the engine. The sound is coming from the cam chain area of the front left cylinder. My SWA guess is its something to do with the cam chain tensioner. It sounds similar the clack of the auto-decomp on my 640 but much quieter. I don't think its a problem and I did not change anything on the motor but I would like some input. Does anyone know what it is??


My second question:

Is the re torque of the heads necessary on the later model 950's. I realize its wont hurt anything to re torque. But it is not mentioned in the maintenance schedule. My bike already has the new nuts from the factory So.........is it really necessary? Or just a carryover precaution from the earlier models service bulletin on gasket failures?



Thx
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Old 04-18-2009, 02:57 PM   #123
elljoh
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Location: Melbourne, Australia.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by positionsize
It sounds similar the clack of the auto-decomp on my 640 but much quieter.
Thx
had the same question in this thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417180

my '04 950a had 25K km's at the time so i was concerned about the cam chain... like my sound, yours is probably due to oil draining from the tensioner.

/elljoh
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Old 04-18-2009, 07:38 PM   #124
fmfpunk
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Location: Koocamonga, CA
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For those in the know: one of my exhaust valves is .001" out of spec on the loose side. Does valve lash tend to get greater or lessen w/ time?

thx.
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Old 04-18-2009, 10:26 PM   #125
Flying Naartjie
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Location: Cape Town, South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmfpunk
For those in the know: one of my exhaust valves is .001" out of spec on the loose side. Does valve lash tend to get greater or lessen w/ time?

thx.
Just did my 07' 950SE, Intakes were tight down to zero (couldn't even get a 0.05 feeler in there), Exhaust were loose to just past the end of the range. I have heard that the Intakes tend to tighten up as the valves sink into their seats and the exhausts tend to loosen up as carbon residue builds up between the valve neck and the seat, but it seems not everyone has had that experience although that does look to be the case on my motor (now done 15000Km).
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Old 04-18-2009, 11:10 PM   #126
ADVJake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Naartjie
Just did my 07' 950SE, Intakes were tight down to zero (couldn't even get a 0.05 feeler in there), .
not a good sign mate. i suspect your motor has been dusted to have the valves close up that early.
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Old 04-19-2009, 07:52 AM   #127
positionsize
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Location: Arizona, Florida and Philippines
Oddometer: 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by elljoh
had the same question in this thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417180

my '04 950a had 25K km's at the time so i was concerned about the cam chain... like my sound, yours is probably due to oil draining from the tensioner.

/elljoh

Thanks For the link Mate!

Exactly what I was looking for
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:44 PM   #128
robbie c
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Location: Hereford
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I've just checked the clearances on my 950SE with 10000 miles on the clock.
Exhausts on the rear were 0.3mm on the front they were 0.35mm which appears to be outside spec and must have been set that way.
inlets were 0.08, 0.10, 0.10 and 0.13, I took 0.05 off the 3 on the lower limit.
This job was easier than I thought it would be.
The two tips that I liked were looking in through the hole in the pump casing with a torch, this worked really well, the other was to get a long 8mm bolt and grind a point on to it.
When you look in with the torch you can see the gap you need, if it's the rear cylinder then any long bolt would do as it goes straight through the crank but when at tdc on the front cylinder the bolt has to locate in a blind hole and so needs the point.

I took my time and enjoyed it.

Water pump next.

Cheers

Rob
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:00 AM   #129
Bonova
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmodem View Post
I remove them one at a time. Lube threads and washers (ARP), then torque to 25 nm. I repeat for all the nuts, working diagonally, until all are done. I then do a final torque to 38 nm. The important thing with the adapter is to keep it at a right angle (90 degrees) to the torque wrench handle. Then no conversion needs to be performed on the torque specs. Only takes about 1/2 hour, once in there doing the valve clearance checks.
Hey Guys. I know this is an old quote... but i need some advise please!
Advise on H.O.W and here suggests the final torque for the head nuts is 38nm. But my manual says 46 Nm? is there a reason that most people are torqueing to 38 instead?
thanks!
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Old 02-08-2014, 04:45 AM   #130
DirtyADV
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Location: SWEDEN, Skellefteå
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonova View Post
Hey Guys. I know this is an old quote... but i need some advise please!
Advise on H.O.W and here suggests the final torque for the head nuts is 38nm. But my manual says 46 Nm? is there a reason that most people are torqueing to 38 instead?
thanks!
2004 Manual says 46Nm

2011 Manual says 38Nm on interior nuts and 34Nm on exterior nuts.

/Johan
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:24 AM   #131
gefr
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Location: East Med, Greece
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Valve bridge bolts. Torque values?

Hi there,
I just did the valves and had the bridge bolts torqued at 10Nm and then the M8 bolts to 18Nm. However one bolt got stripped by the Alen bit and all of them seemed at their limit. Is there any lesser torque values announced on younger models, that do not endanger the bolts' heads, or is it my clampsiness only to blame?
Cheers.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:24 PM   #132
rattis
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Location: East of the seas of Kattegat
Oddometer: 938
Softies

Yeah I found the allen heads to be on the soft side, new bolts next time.
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:30 AM   #133
Katoom72
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Yup, soft as butter. Better to replace them every valve job.
I stripped one of the allen bolts and had to play handyman with a EZ-out and a magnet to avoid metal chips in my valvetrain.
Went out and bought 8 new ones, they torqued down without a sign of giving out.
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