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Old 03-21-2009, 11:20 PM   #76
braaap!
waiting for the big one
 
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 2,317
Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
You've got double the mileage I do, so I can't feel sorry for ya. Jealous maybe. Remember mine's an 03 (bought in 04).
Hey there Meat
! just didn't need this right now... s'pose I'll pull it right down and refresh all the bits that go round and round and in and out....

It can't be attributed to poor fuel either... I'll be checking the bypass valve for a sticking spring too, last month had a little gearbox oil in the airbox (never had that before, well maybe after some foolish wheelies)... it might be a early warning sign of impending engine damage on these things?...

engine oil not reticulating 100%.... high temperatures... hard running.... metal fatigue on bits that have been pumping up and down for many hours... tinkle, tinkle... kaboom!

I'm still amazed how these motors continue to run with such damage!
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:56 PM   #77
jfn68
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Joined: Aug 2004
Oddometer: 620
have a good look at the oil pumps,any gouges/grooves cause lost displacment....my 2 were rooted from contamination...expensive and hard to get (in oz )
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:17 AM   #78
braaap!
waiting for the big one
 
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 2,317
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfn68
have a good look at the oil pumps,any gouges/grooves cause lost displacment....my 2 were rooted from contamination...expensive and hard to get (in oz )
will do! thx for the heads up...
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Old 03-23-2009, 09:23 AM   #79
meat popsicle
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
Oddometer: 14,132
Quote:
Originally Posted by braaap!
... I'll be checking the bypass valve for a sticking spring too, last month had a little gearbox oil in the airbox ...

I'm still amazed how these motors continue to run with such damage!
I am very curious too about that bypass valve; Its the only thing I can think of that might be responsible for my unreliable oil sight glass levels.

I too am amazed at how much abuse the LC4 can take and keep on running. Either that or I am a better mechanic than I give myself credit for...
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:30 PM   #80
Pendragon5
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Cheyenne WY
Oddometer: 39
Talking Best Dual Sport

1. 620RXCe
2. 1998
3. new
4. 15k miles
5. shorter suspension (29"inseam),Edelbrock off-road only mods+pumper kit , skid plate, opened air box, rear disc gard, 95 model tool box@charcoal can mount, geared down=1 in front+add 6 in rear (way down)
6. normal maint., water pump+brgs, wheel brgs/both ends many times,fork seals, all cables+speedo 10+ times?, petcock, rear axle replaced when permanent side came off, new DOT5 every year!, radiator fan, left bar switch, chain gard
7. water pump seal, blue fork seals, fork seal skins, monster hvy duty tubes , brush gards, spare set of wheels
8. Kenda DS+Bridgestone Knobs
9. 80% dirt
10. yes but, newer
11. not yet
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:45 PM   #81
wrk2surf
on the gas or brakes
 
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: THE exact center of California/Bass lake/Yosemite
Oddometer: 6,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
I am very curious too about that bypass valve; Its the only thing I can think of that might be responsible for my unreliable oil sight glass levels.

I too am amazed at how much abuse the LC4 can take and keep on running. Either that or I am a better mechanic than I give myself credit for...
on my rebuild the bypass piston seemed stuck at the top of the bore and took some work to get down, guess thats why they have the holes drilled to the side of it... dont know if that was an issue or not on my conrod melt.
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Old 03-23-2009, 09:18 PM   #82
brents347
Trusting my Cape...
 
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Where the hell is Truckee, CA?
Oddometer: 3,440
1. Bike:
2. Year:
3. Bought used or new:
4. Current mileage:
5. Modifications done:
6. Mechanical work done:
7. Upgrades done:
8. Current tires on the bike:
9. Percentage of road versus dirt use:
10. Would you buy another one?:
11. Did you replace the main shaft bearing (if applicable):
12. Pic of the bike if available:


1. 660 Rallye
2. 2002
3. Used, in boxes
4. Mileage unknown. 2, maybe 3 Dakars + who knows what else.
5. Pretty much none? High fender!
6. None, all, depends on how you look at it.
7. New Renazco at builds' end! CA plate.
8. Michelin Baja F & R
9. 90% dirt, 10% road
10. A newer one, If I could.
11. No. I actually know nothing about this.
12.



When I first got the bike I was posting questions like "what is this part" and "where does the battery go", but I pretty much have the bike all figured out now.
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brents347 screwed with this post 03-24-2009 at 05:40 PM
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Old 03-23-2009, 10:16 PM   #83
meat popsicle
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
Oddometer: 14,132
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf
on my rebuild the bypass piston seemed stuck at the top of the bore and took some work to get down, guess thats why they have the holes drilled to the side of it... dont know if that was an issue or not on my conrod melt.
Next oil change I'll be pulling mine. Not sure why something with a spring doesn't make the maintenance schedule...
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:20 PM   #84
dwayne
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: wheelie in purgatory, Calgary
Oddometer: 3,109
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf
on my rebuild the bypass piston seemed stuck at the top of the bore and took some work to get down, guess thats why they have the holes drilled to the side of it... dont know if that was an issue or not on my conrod melt.
Intresting...I noticed some inconsistancies with mine as well.

On the 400 that went boom, there was NO check valve, on the 620 I bought to rebuild and replace the 400 with there was no spring. the spring that was in the 400 was about .880" long (spec is 1"). I KNOW the 400 hadn't been apart since I bought it (I put about 50 hours on it it is a 1998).
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Old 03-24-2009, 06:57 AM   #85
meat popsicle
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
Oddometer: 14,132
KTM LC4 crankcase bypass valve and spring info here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=57107&page=12

Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
... The bypass valve prevents drain-back of oil from the feed pump and engine oil filter when the engine is not running. ...
I am guessing it allows the oil to build up in the crankcase and allow for oil height measurements (dipstick/sight glass) when the bike is off. I was thinking if it is stuck open the oil height measurements would be off. If it was stuck closed that would be very, very bad of course but it shouldn't eh?
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Old 03-29-2009, 08:31 PM   #86
coughinhk
CoughinHK
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Bonkers Honkers
Oddometer: 83
Katie is my baby

1. 640 Prestige SM
2. 2004
3. Babyed (barely used, still 100% standard)
4. 17,000 Km
5. Tuning (170 main, 1.1 air, 42.5 pilot, open airbox, no SAS or EPC, WRP Lite race can) and rear rack...and .....wait for it....a top box
6. None
7. Vapor Dash
8. Michellin Pilot Power
9. 99% road (there's a short dirt road near my home I have fun on just before I wash her)
10. I love this bike but I want the 690
11. no
12. Before the top box shame and WRP (wow, great can !)

I also want to take the opportunity to thank everyone here. I've got so much good help and advice, especially about which brew to enjoy while I try to sort my bike.

THANK YOU !
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Old 03-29-2009, 08:44 PM   #87
coughinhk
CoughinHK
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Bonkers Honkers
Oddometer: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
......might be responsible for my unreliable oil sight glass levels.
Any idea what causes this ? Did you find out ?

My bike has a cold oil level about 1/3 up the sight glass but when hot it is right at the bottom of the sight glass. According to the manual it should be above the cold level, not below it.
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:07 PM   #88
meat popsicle
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
Oddometer: 14,132
Quote:
Originally Posted by coughinhk
Any idea what causes this ? Did you find out ?

My bike has a cold oil level about 1/3 up the sight glass but when hot it is right at the bottom of the sight glass. According to the manual it should be above the cold level, not below it.
I'm still unsure, but you are right the sight glass should show a higher level when hot than when cold (thermal expansion of oil increases its volume). I am pretty sure the bike must be very level when reading the glass, and always wait a few minutes (5 at least) before reading to allow the oil to drain down and settle in the crankcase, or be diligent and wait for the reading to stabilize.
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Old 03-29-2009, 10:10 PM   #89
GodSilla
I did that.
 
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Village Idiot's residence
Oddometer: 7,227
UPDATE:
2003 640 Adventure, now at 45,000 km's. Last 5,000 k's (4 weeks since oil change and tune up, also replaced coolant pump and thermostat) the bike hasn't missed a single beat, hasn't lost a single nut or bolt, and still runs like a freight train. ZERO problems.
It dragged my sorry arse, plus luggage and spare fuel, through some of the most isolated parts of the planet.

See ya in another 5,000.




PS Hi Meaty
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:02 AM   #90
braaap!
waiting for the big one
 
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 2,317
Quote:
Originally Posted by GodSilla
UPDATE:
2003 640 Adventure, now at 45,000 km's. Last 5,000 k's (4 weeks since oil change and tune up, also replaced coolant pump and thermostat) the bike hasn't missed a single beat, hasn't lost a single nut or bolt, and still runs like a freight train. ZERO problems.
It dragged my sorry arse, plus luggage and spare fuel, through some of the most isolated parts of the planet.

See ya in another 5,000.




PS Hi Meaty
Yes, you are truly blessed, and immune Godsilla... the 2003 model is unquestionably, the most reliable and un-problematic of them all...



tick, tick.... KaBoom.

btw, my bypass valve cap was stuck up inside the case too... spring free length measures 24.34mm! and there where several lumps of metal inbetween the spring coils... I got lotsa parts to order and oilways to flush
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