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Old 03-29-2013, 03:52 PM   #17026
Nick Newton
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Surrey, UK
Oddometer: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by trustme View Post
Do not fit progressive springs , use a straight wound spring , maybe a Racetech which are available in different spring weights.Do a static sag check to assess what rate you want. Preload caps will help but they are a band aid if the basic spring rate is wrong
Have you looked at YSS shocks. Cheaper than O but a step up on Ikons , not sure about Nitros
I spent up on suspension but my bike is a keeper so I figured it was worth it.

PS I'm really enjoying the input from you Euro guys , keep up the good work , kind of inspires me to do more to the Scram.
My attention has been diverted away from the Scram a little by ' Winston ' but still riding it every weekend
Thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at YSS. What do you have on yours?
I rode around NZ back in '02 on a BMW 1150GS would love to do it again on a scram
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:40 PM   #17027
trustme
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Location: Auckland , New Zealand
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Racetech springs & emulators up front. Ohlins at back , you don't need the separate resevoir type as the std shock has sufficient volume to stop overheating unless you are pushing way harder than normal.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:27 PM   #17028
geezfools
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Location: Tacoma, WA
Oddometer: 37
just gonna throw this out
finally put the arrow 2:1 on, as well as the airbox delete and holy shit, this is like a new bike. Hitting the ton shouldn't be much of an issue for this fat guy, booyah!
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:50 AM   #17029
Simon T
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Location: Northamptonshire
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Dr. Who

For those of you in the UK and others that have seen this classic program that's been around for ever....Dr Who is riding a scrambler in the new series starting tonight!!!!
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:16 AM   #17030
Goat_locker
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Location: Edmonds, WA
Oddometer: 108
Nice!!

I'm in...the Tardis is going to need a bigger door.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon T View Post
For those of you in the UK and others that have seen this classic program that's been around for ever....Dr Who is riding a scrambler in the new series starting tonight!!!!
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:53 PM   #17031
Krahe
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Midwest US
Oddometer: 658
Tire change question

Howdy, its been a while!

I am currently trying to remove the front wheel on my 08' and am having trouble. Can someone tell me what the process is?

I have the axle nut off, but the axle doesn't seem to want to come out. Am I missing something?

Thank you!

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Old 03-30-2013, 01:02 PM   #17032
Sam il Cinghio
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: Italy
Oddometer: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krahe View Post
Howdy, its been a while!

I am currently trying to remove the front wheel on my 08' and am having trouble. Can someone tell me what the process is?

I have the axle nut off, but the axle doesn't seem to want to come out. Am I missing something?

Thank you!

Ciao Krahe , you have to slacken the bolt on the lower of the right front fork outer tube (see # 23 here http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triump...lock_03=233015)
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:15 PM   #17033
trustme
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Hi Krahe , Kind of feels like Waldorf & Statler doesn't it.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:21 PM   #17034
satcen
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Location: Czech Republic/Greece/Turkey/Macedonia
Oddometer: 208
2013 mods

Took her out today to test the 2013 mods. CBF 1000 brakes are must. They give great feeling & real BRAKE. M-lock keyless ignition seems to work but it needs some time to get some life experince. But Iīam a bit puzzled about new mosfet rectifier location - I expected it would be 100% cold but it isnīt. Donīt know if itīs just heat transition from the engine....



I will ride & see and may be drill some holes to the side cover.

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Old 03-30-2013, 01:48 PM   #17035
Krahe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam il Cinghio View Post
Ciao Krahe , you have to slacken the bolt on the lower of the right front fork outer tube (see # 23 here http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triump...lock_03=233015)
Aha, there is a silver cap covering the head of the screw! Thank you!

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Old 03-30-2013, 01:52 PM   #17036
Krahe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trustme View Post
Hi Krahe , Kind of feels like Waldorf & Statler doesn't it.
Yes, I cant believe this thread is well over a thousand now!



I have been lurking once and a while. Moved back to the eastern states from Arizona. Haven't found so much as a dirt road yet, so now I am putting a fresh pair of TWs on the ol girl.

Hows things in the southern cross area?

I still plan on visiting the NZ some day...
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:17 PM   #17037
bighead3
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Location: Somewhere north of crazy
Oddometer: 44
Nice!

2013 mods


"Took her out today to test the 2013 mods. CBF 1000 brakes are must. They give great feeling & real BRAKE. M-lock keyless ignition seems to work but it needs some time to get some life experince. But Iīam a bit puzzled about new mosfet rectifier location - I expected it would be 100% cold but it isnīt. Donīt know if itīs just heat transition from the engine...."

Hey Satcen, beautiful bike! What is the black object between the rear shock and the number board?
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:34 PM   #17038
Sam il Cinghio
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Originally Posted by bighead3 View Post
Hey Satcen, beautiful bike! What is the black object between the rear shock and the number board?
It seems a tools box ;)
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:44 PM   #17039
Sam il Cinghio
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Ciao Satcen, nice bike (and great mirrors ;) ;) ;))

Quote:
Originally Posted by satcen View Post
But Iīam a bit puzzled about new mosfet rectifier location - I expected it would be 100% cold but it isnīt. Donīt know if itīs just heat transition from the engine....
No.
Mosfet RR heats less than OEM Shunt RR, but it heats a little bit all the same.

Then don't worry, and no needs to add other holes ;)

Quote:
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M-lock keyless ignition
Please could you give me some infos about this?

Sam il Cinghio screwed with this post 03-30-2013 at 02:50 PM
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:20 PM   #17040
satcen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighead3 View Post
2013 mods



Hey Satcen, beautiful bike! What is the black object between the rear shock and the number board?
Yep, H-D toolbox.
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