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Old 05-21-2010, 12:06 AM   #9211
satcen
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Czech Republic/Greece/Turkey/Macedonia
Oddometer: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by blastmaster
Is it stock Arrow what I hear or is it removed "Db-killer" or is it modified "Db-killer" ? ? ?
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Current bikes: Triumph Scrambler (09-), Honda CBF 250 (06-)
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:07 AM   #9212
NoPoChicken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TStorm
Finishing today's(?) time traveling journey, I landed in Hawaii a full 9 hours before I took off. Now in a place where I get cell service, my phone buzzed saying I had new voicemails. It was my my claim's agent from Geico, telling me he took a look at my bike today but "because it's so new, and because it's a Triumph," the parts don't show up in his appraisal database, so he can't give me an accurate damage quote yet. Apparently he's going to have to do things the old fashioned way and actually research parts ("during breaks and in between assignments") and will get back to me.

So, in the unfortunate chance that any of you damage your bikes and actually file an insurance claim for it...be prepared to wait, because no one knows anything about our Scrams, especially the companies that probably should.
I call bs. The assessor had no problem assessing almost $2,200 damage on my 2009 matte green scram almost a year ago. That from a <5 mile/hour slip in the mud. tallied up every scratch, most of which I decided that I could live with. I convinced them to write the check to me instead of the dealership so that they didn't actually replace that muffler shield and light lens cap....so that I could use the $ to buy better replacement parts. It was a bit of a PITA to convince them, but worth it. It would have been a shame to replace those scratched bits only for me to immediately scrape them again. FYI - the reason I claimed at all was the bent shifter shaft - $800 min.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:11 AM   #9213
blacktiger
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: St.Leonards on Sea, England.
Oddometer: 3,515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgewise
The lever itself didn't break, but the bolt the lever pivots on broke, right where it threads into the frame. Does anybody have a quick and dirty way of getting the threaded portion out?
Over here we have things called "easy outs". These things are like a thread tap and have a very coarse reverse thread on them. You drill a hole down the centre of the piece you want to remove and tap/screw one of the easy outs in and it will/should undo.
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:29 AM   #9214
Mastodon
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: The District of Concrete
Oddometer: 656
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoPoChicken
I call bs. The assessor had no problem assessing almost $2,200 damage on my 2009 matte green scram almost a year ago. That from a <5 mile/hour slip in the mud. tallied up every scratch, most of which I decided that I could live with. I convinced them to write the check to me instead of the dealership so that they didn't actually replace that muffler shield and light lens cap....so that I could use the $ to buy better replacement parts. It was a bit of a PITA to convince them, but worth it. It would have been a shame to replace those scratched bits only for me to immediately scrape them again. FYI - the reason I claimed at all was the bent shifter shaft - $800 min.

Yeah, that seemed odd to me too. I'm pretty sure that not too much has changed from year to year, and that except for the gas tank, he could look up the parts for everything from an '06 scram, and everything would fit. Bet if it was a Harley or a GSX-R 1000, he'd have no problems finding parts.

$800 for just the shifter shaft? Wow! Makes me wonder how much replacing the clutch cam and the rest of my internal damages would cost. Like you, it's only those mechanical bits that I called the insurance in on to help pay for. Scratches and dents only give the bike character and I could use that money for new gear and farkles. I too want better stuff than stock if it's just being replaced.

If my seat is scratched, let me buy the solo seat. Let me swap out the headlamp bucket for one that has a working lens. Let me go to NewBonneville.com and use their turn signals instead of my own. Let me swap out the handlebars for something else. Let me get the Tiger 1050's barends so that the Tiger's handguards I bought will bolt up easier. All of these things are damaged and will be anyways, so let me replace them with what I want. It is my bike afterall.

I think it differs from company to company, but Geico (or maybe it was USAA) has a $3000 limit on how much they will pay out to the individual instead of to a shop. I've already told them I planned on doing several of the repairs myself, and as soon as this guy starts talking money to me, I'll start pushing for me to get the check.
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:38 AM   #9215
nofate
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Chapleau, ON
Oddometer: 2,820
Quote:
Originally Posted by thistle66
Ok, I can't remember the details or name, but there was something a long while ago about a mini pocket sized bike lift to elevate the rear wheel.

Anyone remember that, or how I can get one?

Thanks.
On the road you should be able to elevate the rear wheel by using the sidestand, front wheel and a short stick, pipe or even a rock under the frame as a third leg of the triangle. Dirtbike riders know this trick well. You would teater the bike to the left with the side stand down until the rear wheel is off the ground and then jam your stick between the frame and ground to support the bike.

My Scrambler is still new and I haven't tried it yet, but it was easy to do on my KLR. I don't intend to install a heavy, rattley centerstand on my bike so I will make up a short length of aluminum pipe that is notched to match the frame tube for better stability. Now I just have to remember to also carry a tube patch kit, tire irons, and a pump on my travels.
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Old 05-21-2010, 08:04 AM   #9216
ChrisLX200
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Thanks for the heads-up on the Oberon pegs - I bought a pair of the black ones. I can't understand why Triumph are 'out of stock' until the end of June (i.e., around 6 weeks) for this very basic part. Doesn't sound good for anyone wanting spare parts for Triumph bikes.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:05 AM   #9217
Firedawg450
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Aerostitch.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by thistle66
Ok, I can't remember the details or name, but there was something a long while ago about a mini pocket sized bike lift to elevate the rear wheel.

Anyone remember that, or how I can get one?

Thanks.

They have a couple of versions like this http://www.aerostich.com/prevent-or-...ke-krutch.html. For quick chain lubes, I just use a small bottle jack and the sidestand to get the rear wheel off the groung - same principle and it works great.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:19 AM   #9218
Maxacceleration
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I de-rattled my centerstand.

Quiet now!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DireWolf
Sounds dangerous.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:32 AM   #9219
blacktiger
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Location: St.Leonards on Sea, England.
Oddometer: 3,515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxacceleration
I de-rattled my centerstand.

Quiet now!
Go on.........you took it off?
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:33 AM   #9220
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisLX200
I can't understand why Triumph are 'out of stock' until the end of June
Probably because they break so easily, too many people want them.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:48 AM   #9221
RideAbout
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Oregon
Oddometer: 1,616
Quote:
Originally Posted by zane121
Put my Protaper SE High Bars on today. Very nice and comfortable. I can stand on the pegs and have control and the width is nice too. My mirrors now work! I can actually see behind me..lol.. The cable all fit fine.
Pics??? I've thought of this conversion myself. Something about the stock bar sweep causes my wrist to hurt.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:02 PM   #9222
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideAbout
Pics??? I've thought of this conversion myself. Something about the stock bar sweep causes my wrist to hurt.
As I've posted numerous times. The Renthal 615-01 (for Honda TRX250R ATV) bars did it for me and you don't have to change the clamps as you would with ProTaper bars.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:51 PM   #9223
Wallace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideAbout
Pics??? I've thought of this conversion myself. Something about the stock bar sweep causes my wrist to hurt.
+1
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:59 PM   #9224
wiseanhyzer
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Georgia
Oddometer: 1,540
Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktiger
As I've posted numerous times. The Renthal 615-01 (for Honda TRX250R ATV) bars did it for me and you don't have to change the clamps as you would with ProTaper bars.
You don't have to change the clamps if you get ProTaper SE (seven eights) bars. I put the atv mid se's on mine a while ago. I like them a lot!
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:16 PM   #9225
Chadx
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Location: Bozeman, Montana
Oddometer: 2,165
Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
Use some petroleum jelly (vaseline) on the zippers. My BMW dry bag is the same and if I don't keep the zippers lubed can't even use them.
Anything like that will just collect dust and other foreign matter. Use a non-greasy lube. Some just take a candle and grind it across the zipper. Seems to work pretty good and you won't be left with a bunch of grit stuck to the zipper.
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